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1.
《国际泥沙研究》2023,38(5):629-642
Sand waves of approximately 2 m in height were observed to migrate nearly 40 m with counterclockwise rotation between two bathymetric surveys performed three months apart near the southeastern corner of Martha's Vineyard, Massachusetts. The region is characterized by strong tidal currents, intermittent energetic surface wave events, and shallow water with local depth ranging from 2 to 7 m. This study uses the process-based model, Delft3D, with a three-dimensional approach to examine the sand wave dynamics by incorporating surface waves, winds, currents, and bathymetric observations. The model successfully simulates sand wave migration in comparisons to observations. Model sensitivity analyses show that the sand wave migration reduces by 65% with the absence of the surface waves. The modeled sand wave migration speed is correlated with the tidal current Shields parameter, and sharp increases in migration speed occur when the wave-driven Shields parameter increases in response to energetic surface wave events. The combined effect of tides, surface waves, and bathymetry is the origin of the rotational aspect of the sand wave, using the Shields parameter as an indicator of tidal currents and surface wave influence on sand wave dynamics.  相似文献   

2.
南海北部东沙海域巨型水下沙丘的分布及特征   总被引：3，自引：2，他引：1       下载免费PDF全文
本文基于多波束测深和高分辨率多道反射地震数据研究了东沙海域深水巨型水下沙丘的特征.巨型水下沙丘发育在230~830m水深的上陆坡范围内,呈斑块状分布.NW-SE向的近海底流体运动不仅冲蚀地层,形成了三条与水下沙丘间隔分布的冲蚀带,为水下沙丘提供了沉积物来源,同时也为水下沙丘的形成提供了动力源.研究区水下沙丘波长(L)范围55~510m,波高(h)范围1.5~20m,二者呈指数关系分布.沙丘的波长随水深增大而增大,波高则在500~700m水深范围内最大.水下沙丘NE—SW向展布的脊线和几何参数关系是与现今水动力条件相平衡的结果.  相似文献   

3.
Monthly rainfall data from urbanized and rural areas in the western part of The Netherlands were used to investigate the urban effects upon the rainfall regime. A trend test in the sequence of differences between urban and rural rainfall amounts is described. For the urban areas of Amsterdam and Rotterdam some evidence was found for an increase in precipitation.  相似文献   

4.
Tidal sand waves are dynamic bedforms found in coastal shelf seas. Moreover, these areas are inhabited by numerous benthic species, of which the spatial distribution is linked to the morphological structure of sand waves. In particular, the tube-building worm Lanice conchilegais of interest as this organism forms small mounds on the seabed, which provide shelter to other organisms. We investigate how the interactions between small-scale mounds (height ∼dm) and large-scale sand waves (height ∼m) shape the bed of the marine environment. To this end, we present a two-way coupled process-based model of sand waves and tube-building worm patches in Delft3D. The population density evolves according to a general law of logistic growth, with the bed shear stress controlling the carrying capacity. Worm patches are randomly seeded and the tubes are mimicked by small cylinders that influence flow and turbulence, thereby altering sediment dynamics. Model results relate the patches with the highest worm densities to the sand wave troughs, which qualitatively agrees with field observations. Furthermore, the L. conchilegatubes trigger the formation of sandy mounds on the seabed. Because of the population density distribution, the mounds in the troughs can be several centimetres higher than on the crests. Regarding sand wave morphology, the combination of patches and mounds are found to shorten the time-to-equilibrium. Also, if the initial bed comprised small sinusoidal sand waves, the equilibrium wave height decreased with a few decimetres compared to the situation without worm patches. As the timescale of mound formation (years) is shorter than that of sand wave evolution (decades), the mounds induce (and accelerate) sand wave growth on a similar spatial scale to the mounds. Initially, this leads to shorter sand waves than they would be in an abiotic environment. However, near equilibrium the wavelengths tend towards their abiotic counterparts again. © 2020 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd  相似文献   

5.
Tidal wave transformations in the German Bight   总被引：2，自引：2，他引：0  
Mesoscale and submesoscale dynamics associated with tidal wave transformations were addressed in the German Bight using numerical simulations. Tidal gauge and velocity observations in several locations were used to validate the numerical model. A downscaling approach included analysis of simulations with horizontal resolutions of 1, 0.4, and 0.2 km. It was shown that the modified tidal wave lost most of its energy after reflection or refraction over the eastern part of the German Bight. Energy loss resulted in a pronounced change of the wave’s spectral composition and generation of overtides. Tidal oscillations were modified by mesoscale processes associated with bathymetric channels. Semidiurnal and quarterdiurnal tides revealed very different spatial patterns. The former were aligned with the bathymetric channels, while the latter were rather “patchy” and had about half the spatial scales. In numerous areas around the bathymetric channels, the major axis of the M4 ellipses was normal or at some angle with the major axis of the M2 ellipses. Thus, higher harmonics developed “orthogonal” patterns that drove secondary circulations. Moreover, the ratio between spring and neap tidal amplitudes was relatively low in the Wadden Sea, showing reduced sensitivity of this very shallow area to fortnightly tidal variations. It was demonstrated that simulated hydrodynamics patterns help explain the physical mechanism shaping the median grain size distribution in the German Bight.  相似文献   

6.
The paper presents results on the influence of geometric attributes of satellite-derived raster bathymetric data, namely the General Bathymetric Charts of the Oceans, on spatial statistical modelling of marine biomass. In the initial experiment, both the resolution and projection of the raster dataset are taken into account. It was found that, independently of the equal-area projection chosen for the analysis, the calculated areas are very similar, and the differences between them are insignificant. Likewise, any variation in the raster resolution did not change the computed area. Although the differences were shown to be insignificant, for the subsequent analysis we selected the cylindrical equal area projection, as it implies rectangular spatial extent, along with the automatically derived resolution. Then, in the second experiment, we focused on demersal fish biomass data acquired from trawl samples taken from the western parts of ICES Sub-area VII, near the sea floor. The aforementioned investigation into processing bathymetric data allowed us to build various statistical models that account for a relationship between biomass, sea floor topography and geographic location. We fitted a set of generalised additive models and generalised additive mixed models to combinations of trawl data of the roundnose grenadier (Coryphaenoides rupestris) and bathymetry. Using standard statistical techniques—such as analysis of variance, Akaike information criterion, root mean squared error, mean absolute error and cross-validation—we compared the performance of the models and found that depth and latitude may serve as statistically significant explanatory variables for biomass of roundnose grenadier in the study area. However, the results should be interpreted with caution as sampling locations may have an impact on the biomass–depth relationship.  相似文献   

7.
Wind regimes in the vicinity of the Namib Sand Sea are high energy unimodal near the coast, becoming bimodal or complex inland. There is an overall decrease in wind energy and sand transport rates from south to north and west to east, such that sand moves from coastal and southern source areas to accumulate in the northern and central parts of the sand sea. Such a pattern can explain much of the observed spatial variability in dune types, sizes, and sediment characteristics and lends support to a climatic model of sand sea formation in this region. Seasonal and daily cycles of wind velocity and direction give rise to episodic sand transport, most of which is generated by winds of moderate velocity and frequency.  相似文献   

8.
The response of the tidal system in the southern North Sea to morphodynamic changes was investigated in a modelling study using fine resolution bathymetric observations available for 1982–2011. The Semi-implicit Cross-scale Hydroscience Integrated System Model (SCHISM) was set up for the different sets of bathymetries. One set of bathymetry was compiled from a large number of bathymetric measurements over many years, while the other two reflected bathymetry state in the area of Wadden Sea during 2000 and 2011, respectively. The temporal and spatial evolution of bathymetry was dominated by migration of tidal channels. The M4 tide showed larger sensitivity to bathymetric change in the Wadden Sea than the M2 tide, whereas the structure of the latter remained rather robust. The largest change of the tidal wave due to the differences in bathymetries was located off the North Frisian Wadden Sea. Traces of changes were also found far away from the regions of their origin because the tidal waves in the North Sea propagate the local disturbances basin-wide. This illustrated an efficient physical mechanism of teleconnectivity, i.e. effecting the local responses to the larger-scale or remote change of ocean bottom caused by erosion and deposition. The tidal distortion resulting from the relatively small bathymetric changes was substantial, particularly in the coastal zone. This is a manifestation of the nonlinear tidal transformation in shallow oceans and is crucial for the sediment transport and the morphodynamic feedback, because of the altered tidal asymmetry.  相似文献   

9.
Waves with a large incidence angle in deep water can drive a morphodynamic instability on a sandy coast whereby shoreline sand waves, cuspate forelands, and spits can emerge. This instability is related to bathymetric perturbations extending offshore in the shoaling zone. Here, we explore a different mechanism where the large incidence angle is supposed to occur at breaking and the bathymetric perturbations occur only in the surf zone. For wave incidence angles at breaking above ≈?45°, the one-line approximation of coastal dynamics predicts an unstable shoreline. This instability (EHAWI) is scale-free and the growth rate increases without bound for decreasing wavelength. Here we use a 2DH morphodynamic model resolving surf zone instabilities to investigate whether EHAWI could approximate a real instability in nature with a characteristic length scale. Assuming very idealized conditions on the bathymetric profile and sediment transport, we find a 2DH instability mode consisting of shore-oblique up-current bars coupled to a meandering of the longshore current. This mode grows for high-angle waves, above about 30° (offshore) and the maximum growth rate occurs for the angle maximizing the angle at breaking, about 70° (offshore). The dominant wavelength is of the order of the surf zone width. Interestingly, for long sand waves, the growth rate never becomes negative and it matches very well the anti-diffusive behavior of EHAWI. This distinguishes the present instability mode from other modes found in previous studies for other bathymetric and sediment transport conditions. Thus, we conclude that EHAWI approximates a real morphodynamic instability only for quite particular conditions. In such case, a characteristic length scale of the instability emerges thanks to surf zone processes that damp short wavelengths.  相似文献   

10.
Previous literature has suggested that multiple peaks in sea level anomalies (SLA) detected by two-dimensional Fourier Transform (2D-FT) analysis are spectral components of multiple propagating signals, which may correspond to different baroclinic Rossby wave modes. We test this hypothesis in the South Pacific Ocean by applying a 2D-FT analysis to the long Rossby wave signal determined from filtered TOPEX/Poseidon and European Remote Sensing-1/2 satellite altimeter derived SLA. The first four baroclinic mode dispersion curves for the classical linear wave theory and the Killworth and Blundell extended theory are used to determine the spectral signature and energy contributions of each mode. South of 17°S, the first two extended theory modes explain up to 60% more of the variance in the observed power spectral energy than their classical linear theory counterparts. We find that Rossby wave modes 2–3 contribute to the total Rossby wave energy in the SLA data. The second mode contributes significantly over most of the basin. The third mode is also evident in some localized regions of the South Pacific but may be ignored at the large scale. Examination of a selection of case study sites suggests that bathymetric effects may dominate at longer wavelengths or permit higher order mode solutions, but mean flow tends to be the more influential factor in the extended theory. We discuss the regional variations in frequency and wave number characteristics of the extended theory modes across the South Pacific basin.  相似文献   

11.
莺琼盆地诸探区中存在底劈现象,深层气源产生的气体沿底劈产生的裂隙通道向上漫溢.漫溢过程中,一是充填在遇到的砂体中形成气藏;二是弥漫在上溢通道中,使得通道中的纵波速度发生变化,进而纵波波阻抗差异变小,反射变弱.另外,通道中气体的存在,会加强地层的吸收衰减,使得地震波振幅变弱、高频成分损失导致同相轴分辨率降低.利用OBC数据进行多波地震勘探和利用黏声介质的叠前深度偏移都是改善模糊区成像质量的重要方法技术.为此,本文提出用黏声介质平面波有限差分法叠前深度偏移成像方法改善气体充填区域的成像质量.黏声介质成像目的是补偿地震波的吸收衰减;平面波偏移成像目的是适应海上单炮数量巨大,提高波动方程叠前深度偏移成像的效率;有限差分法叠前偏移的目的是适应该区浅层气分布局域性极强、Q值的空间变化大的情况.在莺歌海某探区的实际数据上的黏声介质平面波有限差分叠前深度偏移试验证明,本方法是改善模糊区成像质量的较为有效的途径.  相似文献   

12.
Sandbars, submerged ridges of sand parallel to the shoreline, affect surfzone circulation, beach topography and beach width. Under time‐varying wave forcing, sandbars may migrate onshore and offshore, referred to as two‐dimensional (2D) behaviour, and vary in planshape from alongshore uniform ridges to alongshore non‐uniform ridges through the growth and decay of three‐dimensional (3D) patterns, referred to as 3D behaviour. Although 2D and 3D sandbar behaviour is reasonably well understood along straight coasts, this is not the case for curved coasts, where the curvature can invoke spatial variability in wave forcing. Here, we analyse sandbar behaviour along the ～3000 m man‐made curved coastline of the Sand Engine, Netherlands, and determine the wave conditions governing this behaviour. 2D and 3D behaviour was quantified within a box north and west of the Sand Engine's tip, respectively, using a 2.4‐year dataset of daily low‐tide video images and a sparser bathymetric dataset. The northern and western sides behaved similarly in terms of 2D behaviour, with seasonal onshore and offshore migration, resulting in a stable position on inter‐annual timescales. However, both sandbar geometry and 3D behaviour differed substantially between both sides. The geometric differences (bar shape, bar crest depth and wavelength of 3D patterns) are consistent with computed alongshore differences in breaker height due to refraction. The differences in the timing in growth, decay and morphological coupling of 3D patterns in the sandbar and shoreline are likely related to differences in the local wave angle, imposed by the curved coast. Similar dependency of bar behaviour on local wave height and angle may be expected elsewhere along curved coasts, e.g. shoreline sandwaves, cuspate forelands or embayed beaches. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

13.

A coupled wave and ocean model is applied to the region of Galway Bay in the west of Ireland, using the numerical modelling suite COAWST. The coupled model was validated in a previous study. Here we focus on the impact of the currents and sea level on the sea state during Storm Hector (2018/06/14). The purpose of the research is to improve the wave dynamics knowledge specifically in Galway Bay by highlighting and quantifying the dominant current-induced mechanisms on the sea state observed numerically. We want to know where wave-current interaction is modifying the sea state in the bay, and if the change is significant to justify the use of a coupled model for an operational application. We show that the impacts of the tidal sea surface height on bottom friction and of the current-induced refraction on the spatial distribution of the waves are the dominant mechanisms. Those two effects are well-documented and observed in the literature already. A strong feedback impact of the coupling is also put into evidence. The wave-induced response in terms of currents leads to a noticeable variation in terms of wave height. Less documented in the literature, we discuss the link between current-induced refraction and the reduction of wave generation by wind.

  相似文献   

14.
Modelling sand wave migration in shallow shelf seas   总被引：5，自引：0，他引：5  
Sand waves form a prominent regular pattern in the offshore seabed of sandy shallow seas. The positions of sand-wave crests and troughs slowly change in time. Sand waves are usually assumed to migrate in the direction of the residual current. This paper considers the physical mechanisms that may cause sand waves to migrate and methods to quantify the associated migration rates. We carried out a theoretical study based on the assumption that sand waves evolve as free instabilities of the system. A linear stability analysis was then performed on a 2DV morphological model describing the interaction between the vertically varying water motion and an erodible bed in a shallow sea. Here, we disrupted the basic tidal symmetry by choosing a combination of a steady current (M0) and a sinusoidal tidal motion (M2) as the basic flow. We allowed for two different physical mechanisms to generate the steady current: a sea surface wind stress and a pressure gradient. The results show that similar sand waves develop for both flow conditions and that these sand waves migrate slowly in the direction of the residual flow. The rates of migration and wavelengths found in this work agree with theoretical and empirical values reported in the literature.  相似文献   

15.
In the year 1958 the Service for Water Management of the ?Rijkswaterstaat” started its program of geo-electrical resistivity prospecting in the western part of the Netherlands. The aim of this program was to obtain data on the salinity distribution of the ground water. The ground water regime in this part of the Netherlands is most intricate. This is due to the geological and geo-hydrological conditions and to the low elevation of the land. Many reclaimed areas are up to several metres below mean sea level. The resistivity data obtained are closely related to the salinity of the ground water. On the basis of bore hole data it was even possible to arrive at calibration curves for the salinity of the ground water in sand deposits. Under special conditions it was also possible to draw conclusions with respect to the presence of less permeable formations as e.g. clay layers. Some remarks are given on the practical performance and the interpretation of the measurements. A review is given of the work done until now. Some results are shown by means of maps of the salinity distribution of the ground water in the western and northern parts of the Netherlands. Two examples are described of the use of the data obtained during the survey in the province of Zuid-Holland. Another two examples are presented of detailed investigations for special purposes in relatively small areas.  相似文献   

16.
文中针对单层偏心框架结构,利用正弦行波激励研究了质量偏心率和激励频率对偏心框架结构行波扭转响应的影响规律.建立了行波激励下单层偏心框架结构的振动方程,采用相对运动法求解给出了正弦行波激励下单层偏心框架结构楼板的质心平动位移和转角位移以及楼板扭矩和柱剪力的解析解.计算了一个钢筋混凝凝土单层偏心框架结构的峰值楼板扭矩和峰值...  相似文献   

17.
Of the many topographic features, more specifically seamounts, that are ubiquitous in the ocean floor, we focus our attention on those with relatively shallow summits that can interact with wind-generated surface waves. Among these, especially relatively long waves crossing the oceans (swells) and stormy seas are able to affect the water column up to a considerable depth and therefore interact with these deep-sea features. We quantify this interaction through numerical experiments using a numerical wave model (SWAN), in which a simply shaped seamount is exposed to waves of different length. The results show a strong interaction that leads to significant changes in the wave field, creating wake zones and regions of large wave amplification. This is then exemplified in a practical case where we analyze the interaction of more realistic sea conditions with a very shallow rock in the Yellow Sea. Potentially important for navigation and erosion processes, mutatis mutandis, these results are also indicative of possible interactions with emerged islands and sand banks in shelf seas.  相似文献   

18.
Ocean surface waves are the dominant temporally and spatially variable process influencing sea floor sediment resuspension along most continental shelves. Wave-induced sediment mobility on the continental shelf and upper continental slope off central California for different phases of El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO) events was modeled using monthly statistics derived from more than 14 years of concurrent hourly oceanographic and meteorologic data as boundary input for the Delft SWAN wave model, gridded sea floor grain-size data from the usSEABED database, and regional bathymetry. Differences as small as 0.5 m in wave height, 1 s in wave period, and 10° in wave direction, in conjunction with the spatially heterogeneous unconsolidated sea-floor sedimentary cover, result in significant changes in the predicted mobility of continental shelf surficial sediment in the study area. El Niño events result in more frequent mobilization on the inner shelf in the summer and winter than during La Niña events and on the outer shelf and upper slope in the winter months, while La Niña events result in more frequent mobilization on the mid-shelf during spring and summer months than during El Niño events. The timing and patterns of seabed mobility are addressed in context of geologic and biologic processes. By understanding the spatial and temporal variability in the disturbance of the sea floor, scientists can better interpret sedimentary patterns and ecosystem structure, while providing managers and planners an understanding of natural impacts when considering the permitting of offshore activities that disturb the sea floor such as trawling, dredging, and the emplacement of sea-floor engineering structures.  相似文献   

19.
This study aims at comparing and contrasting two different models for sand transport by currents in a shallow sea to illustrate the effect of velocity veering. The first model uses the Bailard-type formulation, which allows calculation of erosion/deposition rates at a fixed location on the sea floor via the divergence of horizontal sediment fluxes. The second model is a semi-analytical 2.5-dimensional model, which takes into account the time lag between erosion and deposition events and the velocity veering within the sediment-laden (nepheloid) layer caused by the Coriolis force. The velocity veering implies that the direction of the sediment flux is generally different from the direction of the surface flow. The latter model was designed for rapid, semi-analytical computations of sediment transport, using flow fields from 2-DH numerical models. The two models use a matching set of parameters to provide identical values for the bottom stress and suspended sediment load for a uniform steady current at any given surface velocity. The two models were compared in a range of sand grain sizes 50–500 m and current speeds up to 1 m s–1 for an idealised square region (100 × 100 km) of a shelf sea of constant depth. The erosion/deposition patterns and suspension load were examined in three settings: (1) uniform steady flow, (2) straight jet, (3) meandering jet. It was found that both the rates and, in particular, the spatial distribution of the areas of erosion/deposition differ significantly between the models in cases (2) and (3). This difference can be attributed to additional flux divergence due to velocity veering. A comparison of model results with field data, collected at Long Island Shelf, supports the relevance of Coriolis-induced veering of currents on the direction of the sediment flux.Responsible Editor: Jens Kappenberg  相似文献   

20.
Within the Australian-Antarctic discordant zone, residual depth anomalies approach 1000 m. In sea floor younger than 10 Ma that is more than 500 m deeper than expected, Rayleigh wave phase velocities are significantly faster than in sea floor of comparable age in the Pacific. In this area, the shear wave velocity in the 20–40 km depth range is unusually fast, indicating that the lithosphere develops more rapidly than usual from an asthenosphere that is perhaps cooler than average. In sea floor that is older than 10 Ma, phase velocities are anomalously fast and independent of the residual depth. Beneath this older sea floor, the low-velocity zone in the oceanic mantle is much less pronounced than beneath sea floor of comparable age in the Pacific.  相似文献   

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