共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 31 毫秒
1.
Studies on the possible effects of a detached breakwater on the characteristics of the wavefield are carried out experimentally.A serpentine wave generator is used to generate both uni- andmulti-directional waves.Characteristics of the wave fields analyzed here include the wave fielddirectionality,and the probability distributions of surface elevations and of the wave heights.Owing to thepresence of the breakwater,waves outside the harbour are found to be reflected with,however,concen-trated energy within the harbour entrance.In general,wave heights can be approximated with a Rayleighdistribution,with occasional deviations from the theory.This occurs more frequently for waves with high-er peak frequency values than for those with lower values both for uni-and multi-directional waves.Sur-face elevations can be approximated with the Gaussian model.although the Edgeworth's form of the typeA Gram-Charlier series expansions would yield better fits.Wave directionality is found to have nodiscernible effects on 相似文献
2.
Probability distribution of wave heights attenuated by salt marsh vegetation during tropical cyclone
Zero-crossing wave heights, obtained from the field measurement of random waves propagating through salt marsh vegetation (Spartina alterniflora) during a tropical storm, were analyzed to examine their probability distribution. Wave data (significant wave heights up to 0.4 m in 0.8 m depth) were collected over a two-day period along a 28 m transect using three pressure transducers sampling at 10 Hz. Wave height distribution was observed to deviate from the Rayleigh distribution. The observed probability densities of the larger wave heights were reduced significantly by vegetation, producing wave heights lower than those predicted by the Rayleigh distribution. Assuming Rayleigh distributed wave heights for the incident waves to the vegetation patch, existing vegetation-induced wave attenuation formulations are used to derive a special form of two-parameter Weibull distribution for wave heights in the inundated wetland. The scale parameter of the distribution is theoretically shown to be a function of the shape parameter, which agrees with the measurements, effectively reducing the proposed distribution to a one-parameter type. The derived distribution depends on the local parameters only and fits well to the observed distribution of wave heights attenuated by vegetation. Empirical relationships are developed to estimate the shape parameter from the local wave parameters. 相似文献
3.
《Applied Ocean Research》2004,26(3-4):114-136
Two successive wave heights are modeled by a Gaussian copula, which is referred to as the Nataf model. Results with two initial distributions for the transformation are presented, the Næss model [Næss A. On the distribution of crest to trough wave heights. Ocean Engineering (1985);12(3):221–34] and a two-parameter Weibull distribution, where the latter is in best agreement with data. The results are compared with existing models. The Nataf model has also been used for modeling three successive wave heights.Results show that the Nataf transformation of three successive wave heights can be approximated by a first order autoregressive model. This means that the distribution of the wave height given the previous wave height is independent of the wave heights prior to the previous wave height. Thus, the joint distribution of three successive wave heights can be obtained by combining conditional bivariate distributions. The simulation of successive wave heights can be done directly without simulating the time series of the complete surface elevation.Successive wave periods with corresponding wave heights exceeding a certain threshold have also been studied. Results show that the distribution for successive wave periods when the corresponding wave heights exceed the root-mean-square value of the wave heights, can be approximated by a multivariate Gaussian distribution.The theoretical distributions are compared with observed wave data obtained from field measurements in the central North Sea and in the Japan Sea, with laboratory data and numerical simulations. 相似文献
4.
This paper examines the effects of digital processing, and therefore discretisation or sampling, of sea surface elevations that are, in reality, continuous. Using random linear wave theory, probability distributions for the measured (as opposed to actual) wave amplitudes and heights have been obtained which are conditional on the sampling rate. It is shown that with low sampling rates there are significant departures from the usual Rayleigh distribution. Rates of 1 Hz or less may lead to significant underestimation of the probability of very large waves. An analysis of full-scale measurements obtained from a platform in the North Sea supports these results. 相似文献
5.
Rodney J. Sobey 《Coastal Engineering》1996,27(3-4)
The correlation between individual waves in a real sea state has a central role in existing theories of wave grouping. The attractive Kimura (1980) theory has two critical assumptions, that the sequence of individual wave heights follows a Markov process and that the joint distribution of consecutive wave heights follows a bivariate Rayleigh form. Analysis of measured water surface records suggests that sequences of individual waves can reasonably be described as a first order mixed autoregressive, moving-average or ARMA process, though a distinction among ARMA (1,0), ARMA (0,1) and ARMA (1,1) models was beyond the resolution of the data. These include the Markov or ARMA (1,0) model. The decisive detail, the joint distribution of consecutive wave heights in the sea state, was evaluated by a simulation methodology that is consistent with the Gaussian random wave model. The estimates are dependent on spectral shape and are consistently narrower and more sharply focussed at the peak than the corresponding bivariate Rayleigh estimate. The resulting predictions of run and group length statistics differ from the Kimura theory, though not by a sufficient margin to displace the Kimura theory as a pragmatic choice for wave grouping. 相似文献
6.
R.J. Sobey 《Ocean Engineering》1992,19(2)
Existing theoretical distributions of wave height and period do not reflect measured joint distributions from field data. A simulation methodology is introduced to retain the essential features of the theoretical background in Gaussian random noise but to avoid further compromising assumptions in the interpretation of height and period in the amplitude domain. A joint distribution can be associated directly with an empirical or measured variance spectrum. Spectral shape appears to dominate the detail of predicted joint distributions. There is generally a much sharper decay in probability levels at higher periods than is predicted by theoretical models. For Jonswap spectra, there is a dominant central ridge and a distinct bimodal structure in the joint distribution, features that are not evident in symmetric Gaussian spectral forms. The wave height distributions for Jonswap spectra differ little from the Rayleigh distribution, except at extreme wave heights where Rayleigh overpredicts. The period distributions are strongly sensitive to spectral shape. In the conditional distribution of periods, given the height, the asymptotic median period at extreme wave heights is significantly longer than the mean period for Jonswap spectra, but not for symmetric Gaussian forms. 相似文献
7.
The extreme behavior of surface waves as they encounter and pass compliant deepwater platforms is an important class of problems for offshore engineers attempting to specify the platform deck elevation. In this study analytical expressions for the probability density and cumulative distribution functions that utilize empirical coefficients in an attempt to accurately model surface wave runup and airgap problems are presented. The analysis focuses upon interpreting the tails of the measured data histograms using two parameter Weibull distribution models. The appropriate empirical constants, assumed to be solely dependent upon the significant wave height, were evaluated and compared for all the test data. Based upon a small select set of data, for a mini-TLP and two Spar platforms, the airgap problem was found to be adequately modeled using a Rayleigh distribution. Further, for the seven seastates analyzed, the Weibull shape parameter was nearly constant and the data confirmed that the exclusive fit of the scale parameter assuming dependence only on the significant wave height was a reasonable approach for modeling the wave runup. Finally, by combining these models with a Poisson return model for each storm the associated reliability estimates for various deck heights were estimated. 相似文献
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9.
Probability distributions of wave phases in association with distributions of surface elevations arestudied with wave records.Wave records of different nature are used for comparison.These are surface fluc-tuations acquired during wind wave flume experiments,representing wave generation under strong wind:andwave records measured in the northern part of Taiwan for waves in natural environments.Three probabilitymodels,the unifrom distribution,the beta distribution,and a model from Tayfun and Lo(1989)are adoptedto study the possible distributions of wave phases.It is found that when surface elevations become skewed,wave phases deviate from the usually assumed uniform distribution and a better model would be the beta dis-tribution. 相似文献
10.
By using a new concept of the discrete amplitude, we examine the statistical properties of narrow-banded random waves. The main results are as follows: (1) the wave height distribution follows the Rayleigh distribution in the case of an infinitely narrow-banded spectrum in the strict sense; (2) the discrete amplitudes, different from the crest heights, are distributed according to the Rayleigh distribution for arbitrary bandwidth spectra; (3) the statistical distribution of the gap length between the discrete amplitude and the crest is examined and derived theoretically. The derived distribution agrees well with the result of numerical simulations; (4) taking into account the gap length distribution, the probability density function of crest heights is derived, which deviates from the Rayleigh distribution. 相似文献
11.
In this paper,the long-term statistical properties of wave height in an idealized square harborwith a partial opening are studied.The incident waves are propagated into the harbor numerically by the fi-nite/infinite element method using three different wave models:(1)monochromatic wave train,(2)long-crested random wave train,and(3)short-crested random wave train.This study shows that for a giv-en incident wave,the wave height in the harbor is affected by the wave model used.For long-term estima-tion of wave height exceedance probability,it is recommended that the waves be propagated into the har-bor using the random wave model,and that wave heights be computed by use of the Rayleigh probabilitydistribution. 相似文献
12.
Cross-shore hydrodynamics within an unsaturated surf zone 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
This paper concerns the hydrodynamics induced by random waves incident on a steep beach. New experimental results are presented on surface elevation and kinematic probability density functions, cross-shore variation in wave heights, the fraction of broken waves and velocity moments. The surf zone is found to be unsaturated at incident wave frequencies, with a significant proportion of the incident wave energy remaining at the shoreline in the form of bores. Wave heights in both the outer and inner surf zones are best described by a full Rayleigh distribution [Thornton, E.B., Guza, R.T., 1983. Transformation of wave height distribution. J. Geophys. Res. 88, 5925–5938], rather than a truncated Rayleigh distribution as used by Battjes and Janssen (1978) [Battjes, J.A, Janssen, J.P., 1978. Energy loss and setup due to breaking of random waves. Proc. 16th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng. ASCE, New York, pp. 569–588]. A new parametric wave transformation model is outlined which provides explicit expressions for the fraction of broken waves and the energy dissipation rate within the surf zone. On steep beaches, the model appears to offer improved predictive capabilities over the original Battjes and Janssen model. Cross-shore variations in the velocity variance and velocity moments are best described using Linear Gaussian wave theory, with less than 20% of the velocity variance in the inner surf zone due to low frequency energy. 相似文献
13.
This paper concerns the calculation of wave height exceedance probabilities for nonlinear irregular waves in transitional water depths, and a Transformed Rayleigh method is first proposed for carrying out the calculation. In the proposed Transformed Rayleigh method, the transformation model is chosen to be a monotonic exponential function, calibrated such that the first three moments of the transformed model match the moments of the true process. The proposed new method has been applied for calculating the wave height exceedance probabilities of a sea state with the surface elevation data measured at the Poseidon platform. It is demonstrated in this case that the proposed new method can offer better predictions than those by using the conventional Rayleigh wave height distribution model. The proposed new method has been further applied for calculating the total horizontal loads on a generic jacket, and its accuracy has once again been substantiated. The research findings gained from this study demonstrate that the proposed Transformed Rayleigh model can be utilized as a promising alternative to the well-established nonlinear wave height distribution models. 相似文献
14.
This paper concerns the calculation of wave height exceedance probabilities for nonlinear irregular waves in transitional water depths, and a Transformed Rayleigh method is first proposed for carrying out the calculation. In the proposed Transformed Rayleigh method, the transformation model is chosen to be a monotonic exponential function, calibrated such that the first three moments of the transformed model match the moments of the true process. The proposed new method has been applied for calculating the wave height exceedance probabilities of a sea state with the surface elevation data measured at the Poseidon platform. It is demonstrated in this case that the proposed new method can offer better predictions than those by using the conventional Rayleigh wave height distribution model. The proposed new method has been further applied for calculating the total horizontal loads on a generic jacket, and its accuracy has once again been substantiated. The research findings gained from this study demonstrate that the proposed Transformed Rayleigh model can be utilized as a promising alternative to the well-established nonlinear wave height distribution models. 相似文献
15.
1 .IntroductionInrecent years ,especiallyfrom1994 when aninternational conference on breakwater design washeldinJapan,muchresearchonthe dynamic analysis of caisson breakwaters has been done ,and manyimportant progresses have been made .Oumeraci and Korten… 相似文献
16.
K. I. Kuznetsov A. A. Kurkin E. N. Pelinovsky P. D. Kovalev 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2014,50(2):213-220
The results of wind-wave measurements with bottom-pressure sensors are discussed. These measurements were performed at the southeastern coast of the Island of Sakhalin in 2006–2009. The problems of converting data obtained with these sensors into water-level displacent in the context of the linear theory are noted. Twenty records with a duration of 2 weeks to 3 months were obtained. These records contain from 150000 to 1200000 waves for three different observation points located at the southeastern coast of Sakhalin in the regions of the village of Vzmor’ye, Lake Izmenchivoye, and the Cape of Ostryi. The estimates obtained for wave-height distributions were approximated by the Weibull distribution. They were compared to the theoretical Rayleigh, Forristall, Weibull, and Glukhovskii distributions. As one would expect, in the region of small wave heights, all distributions prove to be close to one another, and, for large wave heights, the Weibull distribution is preferred. 相似文献
17.
Wave set-up in storm surges is studied using a numerical model for coasts in Tosa Bay, Japan, open to the Pacific Ocean. Simulation models employing only atmospheric pressures and winds as external forces are unable to properly simulate open coast storm surge heights, such as those due to Typhoon Anita (1970). However, the present study shows that a numerical model incorporating wave-induced radiation stresses, as well as wind stresses and pressure gradients, is able to account for the open coast surge heights. There is a maximum contribution of 40% by the radiation stresses to the peak sea level rises. This study also evaluates the effects of the tides; including the tides improves the agreement between the predicted water surface elevations and the observations. The difference in predictions between one-way coupling from wave to surge models and two-way coupling of the surge and wave models is found to be small. 相似文献
18.
The statistical distribution of wave orbital velocity in intermediate coastal water depth has been quantitatively determined from the comprehensive field velocity data collected near the seabed in this study. Two ocean ADV current meters, which were mounted at 0.5 m above the seabed on two separate stainless steel tripods sitting on the seabed, were used to measure instantaneous water particle velocities at a 2 Hz sampling rate for 17.07 min every hour in two coastal water depths of 11 m and 23 m in nine field deployments over a period of 2 years. The zero-crossing method is applied to analyse the field velocity data collected in each field deployment to obtain a large sample of wave orbital velocity amplitudes of individual waves. Based on the collected field velocity data, it is found that the histogram of instantaneous wave orbital velocities perfectly follows the Gaussian distribution as commonly assumed, while the histogram of wave orbital velocity amplitudes is less accurately described by the Rayleigh distribution than the modified Rayleigh and the Weibull distribution. It is also found that large orbital velocity amplitudes are generally overestimated by the Rayleigh distribution, but well predicted by the modified Rayleigh and the Weibull distribution. The expected value of maximum orbital velocity in a velocity record of finite size is also derived from the three distributions and found to agree well with the present field data. 相似文献
19.
20.
On the distribution of crest to trough wave heights 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Arvid Naess 《Ocean Engineering》1985,12(3):221-234
In the present paper we derive the probability distribution function of crest to trough wave heights in a narrow-band, Gaussian stochastic process. It is shown that the distribution function is a one-parameter Rayleigh distribution where the parameter is expressed in terms of the correlation function of the given process. Comparison based on correlation values obtained via sea wave spectra indicate that the derived distribution function agrees well with observed data. 相似文献