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1.
It is well established that the modulational instability enhances the probability of occurrence for extreme events in long crested wave fields. Recent studies, however, have shown that the coexistence of directional wave components can reduce the effects related to the modulational instability. Here, numerical simulations of the Euler equations are used to investigate whether the modulational instability may produce significant deviations from second-order statistical properties of surface gravity waves when short crestness (i.e., directionality) is accounted for. The case of a broad-banded directional wave field (i.e. wind sea) is investigated. The analysis is concentrated on the wave crest and trough distribution. For completeness a comparison with a unidirectional wave field is presented also. Results will show that the distributions based on second-order theory provide a good estimate for the simulated crest and trough height also at low probability levels. 相似文献
2.
The realistic assessment of an ocean wave energy resource that can be converted to an electrical power at various offshore sites depends upon many factors, and these include estimating the resource recognizing the random nature of the site-specific wave field, and optimizing the power conversion from particular wave energy conversion devices. In order to better account for the uncertainty in wave power resource estimates, conditional probability distribution functions of wave power in a given sea-state are derived. Theoretical expressions for the deep and shallow water limits are derived and the role of spectral width is studied. The theoretical model estimates were compared with the statistics obtained from the wave-by-wave analysis of JONSWAP based ocean wave time-series. It was shown that the narrow-band approximation is appropriate when the variability due to wave period is negligible. The application of the short-term models in evaluating the long-term wave power resource at a site was illustrated using wave data measured off the California coast. The final example illustrates the procedure for incorporating the local wave data and the sea-state model together with a wave energy device to obtain an estimate of the potential wave energy that could be converted into a usable energy resource. 相似文献
3.
The probability distribution of the height of global maximum for a Gaussian random field evolving in time is studied. In particular, the effect of spreading is studied and the role of the wave kinematics is discussed. It is observed that taking into account time dynamics of spatial characteristics results in distributions different from those obtained for the static case. The results are illustrated by computing the derived distribution for different Gaussian seas for three distinct sampling schemes. The resulting distributions are also used to compute return periods for rogue waves. 相似文献
4.
The relationship between significant wave height and period, the variability of significant wave period, the spectral peak enhancement factor, and the directional spreading parameter of large deepwater waves around the Korean Peninsula have been investigated using various sources of wave measurement and hindcasting data. For very large waves comparable to design waves, it is recommended to use the average value of the empirical formulas proposed by Shore Protection Manual in 1977 and by Goda in 2003 for the relationship between significant wave height and period. The standard deviation of significant wave periods non-dimensionalized with respect to the mean value for a certain significant wave height varies between 0.04 and 0.21 with a typical value of 0.1 depending upon different regions and different ranges of significant wave heights. The probability density function of the peak enhancement factor is expressed as a lognormal distribution, with its mean value of 2.14, which is somewhat smaller than the value in the North Sea. For relatively large waves, the probability density function of the directional spreading parameter at peak frequency is also expressed as a lognormal distribution. 相似文献
5.
Wave elevations and water particle velocities were measured in a laboratory surf zone created by the breaking of a narrow-band irregular wave train on a 1/35 plane slope. The incident waves form wave groups that are strongly modulated. It is found that the waves that break close to the shoreline generally have larger wave-height-to-water-depth ratios before breaking than the waves that break farther offshore. After breaking, the wave-height-to-water-depth ratio for the individual waves approaches a constant value in the inner surf zone, while the standard deviation of the wave period increases as the still water depth decreases. In the outer surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is closely correlated to the initial wave heights, and has a wider variation for narrow-band waves than for broad-band waves. In the inner surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is similar for narrow-band waves and broad-band waves. It is found that the wave elevation and turbulent kinetic energy time histories for the individual waves in a wave group are qualitatively similar to those found in a spilling regular wave. The time-averaged transport of turbulent kinetic energy by the ensemble-averaged velocity and turbulence velocity under the irregular breaking waves are also consistent with the measurements obtained in regular breaking waves. The experimental results indicate that the shape of the incident wave spectrum has a significant effect on the temporal and spatial variability of wave breaking and the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy in the outer surf zone. In the inner surf zone, however, the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy is relatively insensitive to the shape of the incident wave spectrum, and the important parameters are the significant wave height and period of the incident waves, and the beach slope. 相似文献
6.
Probability models for offshore structural response due to Morison wave loading Part I: Drag-only response 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Offshore structures are exposed to random wave loading in the ocean environment and hence the probability distribution of their response to wave loading is a minimum requirement for efficient probabilistic analysis of these structures. Due to nonlinearity of Morison wave loading and also due to intermittency of wave loading on members in the splash zone, the response is often non-Gaussian. Analysis of simulated data has, however, shown that neither of the two probability models proposed in the literature can accurately predict the tails of the response distribution. New probability models are therefore required to overcome this deficiency. This paper is composed of two parts: Part I is devoted to the development and validation of a new probability model for drag-only responses (i.e. responses due to the drag component of Morison wave loading), while Part II is devoted to the development and validation of new probability models for both inertia-only and total responses. 相似文献
7.
为了研究欧洲北海海域的波高全区域概率分布情况,从而为海洋平台等海洋浮式结构物的选址和结构设计提供依据。首先基于Global Waves Statistics(GWS)提供的实测数据,确定典型计算工况的发生概率;同时考虑实测数据中极端波浪环境下的数据缺失导致大波高分布概率偏小的问题,利用三参数Weibull分布确定不同重现期下的极值风速,作为典型计算工况的补充。以不同风速、风向的定常风场为输入项,利用第三代海浪数值模型SWAN模型,对北海全区域波高进行数值模拟。将数值模拟的稳态形式依照各工况的发生概率进行归一化累加处理,认为其结果可以表征全区域的波高概率分布情况。以波高概率分布的计算结果为依据,分析北海海域波浪环境的统计学特征,发现有效波高为7 m以上的大波高频发区在北海北部区域有大范围分布;有效波高4～5 m为北海东北区域的多发海况,极端海况下的有效波高主要分布于7～14 m区间,在地形突变区域的波高发生显著变化。 相似文献
8.
The paper reviews methods for quality assessment and intercomparison of ocean wave data. The sampling variability for conventional time series recordings is summarized and compared to less common area measuring measurements. The sampling variability affects the scatter seen in simultaneous observations, and variability in excess of the sampling variability signifies real differences between the instruments. Various means of intercomparing wave parameters and spectra are discussed and two somewhat unconventional ways of deriving regression and calibration relationships are also shown. The methods are illustrated using data from SCAWVEX, focusing mainly on wave data from the HF radars and Directional Waveriders. 相似文献
9.
There is a growing practical interest in the ability to increase the sea states at which marine operations can be safely undertaken by exploiting the quiescent periods that are well known to exist under a wide range of sea conditions. While the actual prediction of quiescent periods at sea for the control of operations is a deterministic process, the long term planning of future maritime tasks that rely on these quiescent periods is a statistical process involving the anticipated quiescence properties of the forecasted sea conditions in the geographical region of interest. It is in principle possible to obtain such data in tabular form either large scale simulation or from field data. However, such simulations are computationally intensive and libraries of appropriate field data are not common. Thus, it is clearly attractive to develop techniques that exploit standard wave spectral models for describing the quiescence statistics directly from such spectra. The present study focuses upon such techniques and is a first step towards the production of a computationally low-cost quiescence prediction tool and compares its efficacy against simulations. Two significant properties emerge for a large class of wave spectral models that encompasses the ubiquitous Neumann and Pierson Moskowitz or Bretschneider forms. Firstly, the auto-correlation function of the wave profile that are required to produce the quiescence property can be obtained analytically in terms of standard special functions. This considerably reduces the computational cost making desktop computer-based planning tools a reality. Secondly, for each class of these parametric spectra, the probability of a given number of consecutive wave heights (normalised to the significant wave heights) less than some critical value is in fact independent of absolute wave height. Thus, for a broad class of practically interesting wave spectra all that is required to obtain the statistical distribution of the quiescent periods is simple rescaling. 相似文献
10.
The wave height distribution with Edgeworth’s form of a cumulative expansion of probability density function (PDF) of surface elevation are investigated. The results show that a non-Gaussian model of wave height distribution reasonably agrees with experimental data. It is discussed that the fourth order moment (kurtosis) of water surface elevation corresponds to the first order nonlinear correction of wave heights and is related with wave grouping. 相似文献
11.
XU Fumin
Ph. D. College of Harbor Waterway Coastal Engineering Hohai University Nanjing P. R. China. 《中国海洋工程》1999,(1)
—The maximum entropy principle(MEP)method and the corresponding probability evaluationmethod are introduced,and the maximum entropy probability distribution expression is deduced in mo-ment of the second order.Fully developed wave height distribution in deep water and wave height and peri-od distribution for different depths in wind wave channel experiment are obtained from the MEP method,and the results are compared with the distribution and the experimental histogram.The waveheight and period distribution for the Lianyungang port is also obtained by the MEP method,and the re-sults are compared with the Weibull distribution and the field histogram. 相似文献
12.
The effect of directionality on extreme wave design criteria 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Sea state design criteria for offshore facilities are frequently provided by direction. For example, it is typical for return-period values of the significant wave height to be specified for each of eight 45° sectors in addition to the omni-directional case. However, it is important that these criteria be consistent so that the probability of exceedance of a given wave height from any direction derived from the directional values is the same as for the omni-directional value. As recently demonstrated by Forristall it is not sufficient simply to scale the directional values so that the value of the wave height from the most severe sector is the same as the omni-directional value.We develop an approach for establishing appropriate directional criteria and an associated omni-directional criterion for a specific location. The inherent directionality of sea states is used to develop a model for the directional dependence of distributions of storm maxima. The directional model is applied to the GOMOS data, and the distributional properties of the 100-year significant wave height are estimated and the implications for design discussed. An objective risk-cost approach is proposed for optimising directional criteria, while preserving overall reliability. Simulation studies are performed, using realistic extreme value assumptions, to quantify the uncertainties. 相似文献
13.
Neural networks for wave forecasting 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The physical process of generation of waves by wind is extremely complex, uncertain and not yet fully understood. Despite a variety of deterministic models presented to predict the heights and periods of waves from the characteristics of the generating wind, a large scope still exists to improve on the existing models or to provide alternatives to them. This paper explores the possibility of employing the relatively recent technique of neural networks for this purpose. A simple 3-layered feed forward type of network is developed to obtain the output of significant wave heights and average wave periods from the input of generating wind speeds. The network is trained with different algorithms and using three sets of data. The results show that an appropriately trained network could provide satisfactory results in open wider areas, in deep water and also when the sampling and prediction interval is large, such as a week. A proper choice of training patterns is found to be crucial in achieving adequate training. 相似文献
14.
Offshore structures are exposed to random wave loading in the ocean environment and hence the probability distribution of their response to wave loading is a minimum requirement for efficient probabilistic analysis of these structures. Due to nonlinearity of Morison wave loading and also due to intermittency of wave loading on members in the splash zone, the response is often non-Gaussian. Part I of this paper was devoted to the development and validation of a new probability model for drag-only responses (i.e. responses due to the drag component of Morison wave loading). This part is devoted to the development and validation of new probability models for both inertia-only and total responses. 相似文献
15.
This article concerns the calculation of nonlinear crest distribution for shallow water Stokes waves. The calculations have been carried out by incorporating a second order nonlinear wave model into an asymptotic analysis method. This is a new approach to the calculation of wave crest distribution, and, as all of the calculations are performed in the probability domain, avoids the need for long time-domain simulations. The accuracy and efficiency of this new approach for calculating the wave crest distribution are validated by comparing the results predicted using it with those predicted by using the Monte Carlo simulation (MCS) method, by using a previous Transformed Rayleigh method, by using some existing wave crest distribution formulas, and by using the measured surface elevation data at the Poseidon platform in the Japan Sea. 相似文献
16.
17.
The fatigue assessment plays an increasing role for the offshore structural safety. Many fatigue assessment methods have been developed for this purpose. Among those methods, the time domain method is regarded as the most accurate method but less adopted in practice due to time consuming. In order to improve the efficiency of the time domain method, an innovative block partition and equivalence method of the wave scatter diagram is developed for offshore structural fatigue assessment. After the wave scatter diagram is partitioned into several blocks, the newly developed method, involves determination of the equivalent wave height, wave period and occurrence probability of the representative sea states based on modified energy equivalent principle. The equivalent wave period of the representative sea state is calculated via the spectral moment formula in which the equivalent spectral moments of zero and second order are obtained based on the weighted averaging principle. Combining with the determined wave period, the equivalent significant wave height can be determined by reversing the wave spectrum integral formula, where the equivalent wave energy of a divided block of the wave scatter diagram is modified by introducing a factor to compensate the effect of low- and high-amplitude cycles fatigue damage. The equivalent occurrence probability is equal to the summation of the original sea states’ occurrence probability within the divided block. The developed method has the advantage of preserving the stochastic characteristics of the short term sea states within the divided block during determining the representative sea state. At the same time the newly developed method has no limitation on block partition and can be applied on different offshore structure. Two structural models, a fixed mono-pile platform and a floating semi-submersible platform, are demonstrated in the numerical examples. Results indicate that the newly developed method is robust, computationally affordable, and accurate within engineering expectations. 相似文献
18.
The stochastic Lagrange wave model is a realistic alternative to the Gaussian linear wave model, which has been successfully used in ocean engineering for more than half a century. This paper presents exact slope distributions and other characteristic distributions at level crossings for symmetric and asymmetric Lagrange space and time waves. These distributions are given as expectations in a multivariate normal distribution, and they have to be evaluated by simulation or numerical integration. Interesting characteristic variables are: slopes obtained by asynchronous sampling in space or time, slopes in space or time, and horizontal particle velocity, when waves are observed when the water level crosses a predetermined level. 相似文献
19.
A model for the depth-limited distribution of the highest wave in a sea state is presented. The distribution for the extreme wave height is based on a probability density function (pdf) for depth-limited wave height distribution for individual waves [Méndez, F.J., Losada, I.J., Medina, R. 2004. Transformation model of wave height distribution. Coastal Eng, Vol. 50, 97:115.] and considers the correlation between consecutive waves. The model is validated using field data showing a good representation of the extreme wave heights in the surf zone. Some important statistical wave heights are parameterized obtaining useful expressions that can be used in further calculations. 相似文献
20.
A nonlinear numerical model has been formulated to study the propagation of a monochromatic surface wave. The model is formulated through the vertical integration of the continuity equation and the equations of motion. This model is investigated for wave propagation, velocity distribution, energy propagation and varying Courant, Friedrichs and Lewy's (CFL) condition. The applicability of this model for both shallow- and deep-water wave is also examined. The results and analyses are shown in details. The results obtained from the model are compared with the Stokes third-order wave theory and with the relevant experimental data. 相似文献