共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 31 毫秒
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Larry G. Ward 《Geo-Marine Letters》1985,5(1):71-75
Resuspension of bottom sediments by waves and tidal currents was investigated in three characteristic environments of middle
Chesapeake Bay (shallow platform, deep platform, and main channel). In the shallow near shore platform wind waves frequently
resuspended significant amounts of sediment, some of which was transported offshore. In both the shallow and adjacent deep
platform regions, tidal currents were too weak (<20 cm cm/sec) to resuspend bottom sediments. In the main channel, peak current
velocities were substantially stronger (40 cm/sec), but were still not competent to erode the bottom. The stability of the
bottom in this area is related to the activities of the benthic organisms which are influenced by seasonal anoxia.
University of Maryland Center for Environmental and Estuarine Studies (CEES) Contribution No. 1572. 相似文献
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Ephemeral sand waves in the hurricane surf zone 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Andrew B. Kennedy K. Clint Slatton Tian-Jian Hsu Michael J. Starek Kittipat Kampa 《Marine Geology》2008,250(3-4):276-280
Airborne bathymetric LIDAR observations along the Florida panhandle after Hurricane Dennis (2005) show the first unequivocal observations of surf-zone sand wave trains.
These are found in depths of 5m along the trough of the hurricane bar, where hindcasts show strong longshore currents only during severe storms. The waves extend over tens of kilometers of coast after Dennis but are absent from the same area in four other datasets. Observed wavelength to water depth ratios are comparable to river dunes and tidal sand waves but height to depth ratios are smaller, with the largest wave heights around 0.1 times the water depth. The sand wave generation mechanism is hypothesized to be from wind-and-wave-induced longshore currents, which were hindcast to be large during Dennis, with destruction from water wave orbital velocities. 相似文献
4.
P. Pchon F. Rivero H. Johnson T. Chesher B. O'Connor J. -M. Tanguy T. Karambas M. Mory L. Hamm 《Coastal Engineering》1997,31(1-4)
Seven numerical models which simulate waves and currents in the surf-zone are tested for the case of a reduced-scale detached breakwater subjected to the action of regular waves with normal incidence. The computed wave heights, water levels and velocities are compared with measurements collected in an experimental wave basin. The wave height decay in the surf-zone is predicted reasonably well. Set-up and currents appear to be less well predicted. This intercomparison exercise shows that radiation stresses are systematically overestimated by formulations used in the models, mean bottom shear stresses are not always co-linear with the mean bottom velocity vector in shallow water, and turbulence modelling in the surf-zone requires a sophisticated 相似文献
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Near bottom water samples and sediments were taken during five cruises to 6 stations forming a transect across the N.W. European Continental Margin at Goban Spur. Flow velocity spot measurements in the benthic boundary layer (BBL) always increased from the shelf to the upper slope (1470 m) from 5 to 9 cm s−1 in spring/summer and from 15 to 37 cm s−1 in autumn/winter. Decreasing values were detected at the lower slope (2000 m) and the lowest values of ca. 2 cm s−1 at the continental rise at 4500 m water depth. Long term measurements with a benthic lander at 1470 m show that currents have a tidal component and reach maximum velocities up to 20 cm s−1, sufficiently high periodically to resuspend and transport phytodetritus. During these long-term observations, currents were always weaker in spring/summer than in autumn/winter. Critical shear velocities of shelf/slope sediments increased with depth from 0.5 to 1.7 cm s−1 and major resuspension events and Intermediate Nepheloid Layers (INLs) should occur around 1000 m. Chloroplastic Pigment Equivalents (CPE) ranged from 0.0 to 0.21 μg dm−3, Particulate Organic Carbon (POC) from 12 to 141 μg dm−3 and Total Particulate Matter (TPM) from 0.2 to 10.0 mg dm−3. Aggregates in the BBL occurred with a median diameter of 152 to 468 μm. Data on suspended particulate matter in the near-bottom waters showed that hydrodynamic sorting within the particulate organic fraction occurred. Phytodetritus was packaged in relatively large aggregates and contributed little to the total organic carbon pool in nearbottom waters (CPE/POC ca.0.2%). The main organic fraction has low settling velocities and high residence times within the benthic boundary layer. As POC was not concentrated in the near bed region the degree to which carbon is accessible to the benthic community depends on aggregate formation, subsequent settling and/or biodeposition of the POC. Close to the sea bed downslope transport may dominate. Under flow conditions high enough to resuspend fresh phythodetritus from sediments at the productive shelf edge, this could be transported to 1500 m (Goban Spur) or abyssal depth (Canyon site between Meriadzek and Goban Spur) within 21 days. 相似文献
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地形变化对青岛地区风暴潮灾影响的一次模拟 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
本文以8509台风为例，模拟了因地形变化而对青岛地区风暴潮灾的影响。结果显示，如果胶州湾口外局部地形变深，在8509台风的情况下，风暴增水会造成一定程度的增加，而且对底层风暴潮流会造成更大的影响。 相似文献
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海洋动力作用下,河口海岸地区海床通常处于动态变化之中。作为地质环境的控制因素,海床沉积物侵蚀再悬浮过程的研究具有重要意义。为阐明胶州湾海域水动力条件对海床侵蚀再悬浮的作用,本文利用海底原位观测三脚架进行了现场观测。观测结果显示：通常条件下,潮流导致的最大海床剪应力可达0.35 N/m2,高于波浪引起的剪应力。涨潮期间,海床发生侵蚀;退潮期间,海床发生淤积。风速达到5 m/s时,波浪引起的剪应力近似等于流致剪应力。风速达到7 m/s时,有效波高为26 cm,波浪对海床侵蚀再悬浮过程起主要作用;此时也会导致海水浊度显著上升,高于通常条件下的2-8倍。分析表明：通常条件下,周期性海流影响海床侵蚀再悬浮过程;而大幅度沉积物再悬浮过程由偶发的波浪事件控制。针对胶州湾沉积物动力学机制的深入研究仍待进一步开展。 相似文献
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《Ocean Modelling》2011,36(4):314-331
Hurricane-induced storm surge, waves, and coastal inundation in the northeastern Gulf of Mexico region during Hurricane Ivan in 2004 are simulated using a fine grid coastal surge model CH3D (Curvilinear-grid Hydrodynamics in 3D) coupled to a coastal wave model SWAN, with open boundary conditions provided by a basin-scale surge model ADCIRC (Advanced CIRCulation) and a basin-scale wave model WW3 (WaveWatch-III). The H1wind, a reanalysis 10-m wind produced by the NOAA/AOML Hurricane Research Division (HRD), and a relatively simple analytical wind model are used, incorporating the effect of land dissipation on hurricane wind. Detailed comparison shows good agreement between the simulated and measured wind, waves, surge, and high water marks. Coastal storm surge along the coast is around 2–3 m, while peak surge on the order of 3.5 m is found near Pensacola, which is slightly to the east of the landfall location on Dauphin Island. Wind waves reach 20 m at the Mobile South station (National Data Buoy Center buoy 42040) on the shelf and 2 m inside the Pensacola/Escambia Bay. Model results show that wave-induced surge (total surge subtracted by the meteorologically-induced surge due to wind and pressure) accounts for 20–30% of the peak surge, while errors of the simulated surge and waves are generally within 10% of measured data. The extent of the simulated inundation region is increased when the effects of waves are included. Surge elevations simulated by the 3D model are generally up to 15% higher than that by the 2D model, and the effects of waves are more pronounced in the 3D results. The 3D model results inside the Pensacola/Escambia Bay show significant vertical variation in the horizontal currents. While the estuary has little impact on the surge elevation along the open coastal water, surge at the head of Escambia Bay is more than 50% higher than that at the open coast with 1.5 h delay. 相似文献
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利用2014–2017年在台湾海峡西部采集的多波束、单道地震剖面、沉积物粒度样品及海流监测资料,在厦门湾近岸陆架区识别出一系列海底沙波,并对沙波的形态特征、分布规律和沉积物组成特征进行分析,探讨水动力条件及其对沙波发育的影响。结果表明沙波发育区水深一般为10~60 m,地形较平缓开阔,坡度一般为0°~1°;平面上沙波区呈一系列NW-SE向条带状坡地,波脊呈线性或新月形,波脊轴线为SW-NE方向,沙波波长为120~800 m,波高2~12 m,沙波指数较大(>30)。地震剖面显示,波形形态主要分为三类:近对称性沙波、非对称性沙波及叠合沙波。近对称性沙纹的波高较大,沙波指数小;非对称性沙波的波长较长,沙波指数大;稳定沙波经后期水流“改造、激活”形成叠合沙波。砂含量较高,沉积物类型以砂、粉砂质砂及砂质粉砂为主,多为细砂—中砂。厦门湾口外的近岸陆架区水动力较强,流系复杂,总体受浙闽沿岸流、南海表层流和黑潮分支的影响。本区为不正规半日潮,流速为0.3~0.7 m/s,落潮流以S向为主,涨潮流向以NNE向为主,潮流作用对沙波的发育和改造起重要影响。 相似文献
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基于FVCOM的泉州湾海域三维潮汐与潮流数值模拟 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
基于FVCOM海洋数值模式,采用非结构的三角形网格和有限体积法,建立了泉州湾海域高分辨率(26 m)的三维潮汐、潮流数值模型。模拟结果同2个验潮站和3个连续测流站的观测资料符合良好,较好地反映了泉州湾内潮汐、潮流运动的变化状况和分布特征,给出了M2、S2、K1、O1 4个主要分潮的同潮图、表层潮流椭圆分布,以及模拟区域内最大可能潮差、表层最大可能潮流流速和潮余流分布。分析表明,4个分潮的最大潮汐振幅和迟角差分别为219 cm和19°,85 cm和25°,26 cm和12°,26 cm和9°;石湖港以东海域的潮波为逆时针旋转的驻波,以西海域为前进波;最大可能潮差由湾口的8.0m向湾内增加至8.8 m。湾内潮流类型为规则半日潮流,落潮最大流速大于涨潮最大流速,北乌礁水道为强流区,表层最大可能潮流流速为2.4 m/s;湾口潮流运动以逆时针方向的旋转流形式为主,湾内的潮流运动以往复流形式为主,长轴走向主要沿着水道方向,与等深线和海岸线平行;四个分潮流表层最大流速分别为1.4 m/s,0.58 m/s,0.12 m/s,0.10 m/s。余流流速大小与潮流强弱有密切的联系,表、中、底层最大余流流速分别为26 cm/s,20 cm/s,16 cm/s,三者在水平方向基本呈北进南出的分布形态。 相似文献
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Field measurements of cross-shore currents 0.25 m from the bed were made on two natural beaches under a range of incident wave conditions. The results indicated the presence of a relatively strong, offshore-directed mean current, both within and seaward of the surf zone. Typical velocities within the surf zone were of the order of 0.2–0.3 m/s. This bed return flow, or “undertow”, represents a mass conservation response, returning water seaward that was initially transported onshore in the upper water column, primarily above the trough of the incident waves. The measurements demonstrated that the bed return flow velocity increases with the incident wave height. In addition, the crossshore distribution of the bed return flow is characterised by a mid-surf zone maximum, which exhibits a strong decrease in velocity towards the shoreline and a more gradual decay in the offshore direction. Several bed return flow models based on mass continuity were formulated to predict the cross-shore distribution of the bed return flow under an irregular wave field and were compared with the field data. Best agreement was obtained using shallow water linear wave theory, after including the mass transport associated with unbroken waves. The contribution of the unbroken waves enables net offshore-directed bottom currents to persist outside the region of breaking waves, providing a mechanism, other than rip currents, to transport sediment offshore beyond the surf zone. 相似文献
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潮滩上波高的时空变化及其影响因素——以长江三角洲海岸为例 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
于2009—2010年的不同季节在崇明东滩北部、中部、南部以及杭州湾北岸东段的芦潮港岸段,利用目前先进的SBE 26plus浪潮仪进行了多个潮周期的波浪观测。研究表明,观测期间潮周期平均风速为1.9～11.0m/s、最大风速为2.8～12.1m/s,各测点潮周期平均水深为0.28～2.12m,高潮位最大水深为0.37～3.19m,潮周期有效波高为0.03～0.45m,最大波高为0.08～1.59m。波高的时空变化受风速、风向、水深和岸滩坡度的综合影响。通常情况下,向岸风期间的波浪较大;风速、水深、岸滩坡度越大,潮滩上的波高也越大。空间上,岸滩坡度最小的崇明东滩中部(坡度0.6‰)测点波高和水深之间的相关性最好,岸滩坡度最大的芦潮港潮滩(坡度8.7‰)测点两者间的相关性最差。时间上,波高和水深之间的相关性与风速、风向的变化有关。因此,只有在潮滩坡度较小(例如<1‰),风速、风向较为稳定时,波高和水深之间的显著正相关关系才存在。要了解某个潮滩的波浪特征,有必要利用先进的仪器进行系统的原位观测,而非简单地借助其它潮滩的波浪研究结果。研究推断,在向岸强台风和大潮高潮位阶段,崇明东滩中潮线附近的最大波高可达1.5～2.0m,芦潮港堤外潮滩的最大波高可达2m以上。 相似文献
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An instrumented, bottom-mounted, tripod deployed off Duck, North Carolina, at a depth of 8 m provided time Series of pressure, benthic currents, suspended Sediment concentrations and bed-level changes prior to and during a typical northeast storm. A Strong jet-like southerly-setting current generated by the northeaster was accompanied by downwelling and Strong bottom agitation by wind waves. A total bed-level change of over 15 cm was recorded. After a phase of bed erosion, the bed accreted rapidly. Side-scan imagery supports the inference that offshore or alongshore migration of quasi-discrete sediment lobes may have produced the observed pulse-like accretion. 相似文献
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粤东海域海洋动力作用较强,平均波高0.9—1.3m,最大碎波水深5.9—10.0m,海流流速10—60cm.s-1。粤东岬湾海岸剖面中段处于侵蚀演变态势。文章基于海陆相互作用下的界面理论,阐述了在大浪或强浪情况下,碎波带波浪水动力强度最大值和底剪应力的分布及其对海底沉积物搬运和造成地形侵蚀的机理;另外,在海流作用下,海洋水团底层流速所形成的底剪应力亦可引起海底基岩侵蚀和沉积物的搬运堆积,改变地貌形态。文章最后得出岬湾海岸剖面变化的2种基本模式,即基岩海岸岬角剖面形态发育模式和湾内沉积性海岸剖面形态发育模式。前者剖面上部为陡壁,下部呈缓凹型;后者剖面为凹型,滨线有一定进退演变。 相似文献
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Estimates of time-integrated values of total (ITVF) and net (INVF) sediment volume flux and the associated changes in bed elevation and local slope were determined for a crescentic outer nearshore bar in Kouchibouguac Bay, New Brunswick, Canada, for eight discrete storm events. A 100 × 150 m grid of depth-of-activity rods spaced at 10 m intervals was used to monitor sediment behaviour on the seaward slope, bar crest and landward slope during the storms, at which time winds, incident waves and near-bed oscillatory currents were measured. Comparisons between storm events and between these events and a longer-term synthetic wave climatology were facilitated using hindcast wave parameters. Strong positive correlations between storm-wave conditions (significant height and total cumulative energy) and total volume flux contrasted strongly with the zero correlation between storm-wave conditions and net volume flux. ITVF values ranged up to 1646 m3 for the experimental grid and were found to have power function relations with significant wave height (exponent 2) and cumulative wave wave energy (exponent 0.4); values of INVF ranged from 0 up to 100 m3 for the same grid indicating a balance of sediment volume in the bar form through time. Sediment reactivation increased linearly with decreasing depth across the seaward slope and bar crest reaching maxima of 20 cm for the two largest storms; bed elevation, and thus slope, changes were restricted to the bar crest and upper landward slope with near zero morphological change on the seaward slope. The latter represents a steady-state equilibrium with null net transport of sediment under shoaling waves. Measurements of the asymmetry of orbital velocities close to the bed show that the energetics approach to predicting beach slope of Inman and Bagnold (1963) is sound. Gradients predicted vary from 0.01 to 0.03 for a range of angles of internal friction appropriate to the local sediment (tan ø = 0.3–0.6). These compare favorably with the measured seaward slope of 0.015 formed under average maximum orbital velocities of 1.12 m s−1 (landward) and 1.09 m s−1 (seaward) recorded during the period of the largest storm waves. 相似文献
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Potential impacts of 0.5 and 1.0 m of relative sea level rise (RSLR) on hurricane surge and waves in southeast Louisiana are investigated using the numerical storm surge model ADCIRC and the nearshore spectral wave model STWAVE. The models were applied for six hypothetic hurricanes that produce approximately 100 yr water levels in southeastern Louisiana. In areas of maximum surge, the impact of RSLR on surge was generally linear (equal to the RSLR). In wetland or wetland-fronted areas of moderate peak surges (2-3 m), the surge levels were increased by as much as 1-3 m (in addition to the RSLR). The surge increase is as much as double and triple the RSLR over broad areas and as much as five times the RSLR in isolated areas. Waves increase significantly in shallow areas due to the combined increases in water depth due to RSLR and surge increases. Maximum increases in wave height for the modeled storms were 1-1.5 m. Surge propagation over broad, shallow, wetland areas is highly sensitive to RSLR. Wave heights also generally increased for all RSLR cases. These increases were significant (0.5-1.5 m for 1 m RSLR), but less dramatic than the surge increases. 相似文献
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A.J.H.M. Reniers M.J. Groenewegen K.C. Ewans S. Masterton G.S. Stelling J. Meek 《Coastal Engineering》2010
The accuracy of nearshore infragravity wave height model predictions has been investigated using a combination of the spectral short wave evolution model SWAN and a linear 1D SurfBeat model (IDSB). Data recorded by a wave rider located approximately 3.5 km from the coast at 18 m water depth have been used to construct the short wave frequency-directional spectra that are subsequently translated to approximately 8 m water depth with the third generation short wave model SWAN. Next the SWAN-computed frequency-directional spectra are used as input for IDSB to compute the infragravity response in the 0.01 Hz–0.05 Hz frequency range, generated by the transformation of the grouped short waves through the surf zone including bound long waves, leaky waves and edge waves at this depth. Comparison of the computed and measured infragravity waves in 8 m water depth shows an average skill of approximately 80%. Using data from a directional buoy located approximately 70 km offshore as input for the SWAN model results in an average infragravity prediction skill of 47%. This difference in skill is in a large part related to the under prediction of the short wave directional spreading by SWAN. Accounting for the spreading mismatch increases the skill to 70%. Directional analyses of the infragravity waves shows that outgoing infragravity wave heights at 8 m depth are generally over predicted during storm conditions suggesting that dissipation mechanisms in addition to bottom friction such as non-linear energy transfer and long wave breaking may be important. Provided that the infragravity wave reflection at the beach is close to unity and tidal water level modulations are modest, a relatively small computational effort allows for the generation of long-term infragravity data sets at intermediate water depths. These data can subsequently be analyzed to establish infragravity wave height design criteria for engineering facilities exposed to the open ocean, such as nearshore tanker offloading terminals at coastal locations. 相似文献
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The results of simultaneous measurements of the bottom (6.25 and 35 m above the bottom) currents, deep currents, and surface currents made at three points in the north-east tropical Pacific Ocean are given. The bottom intensification of the current velocity is revealed in a layer of 35–25 m above the bottom. The estimation of the thickness of the bottom boundary layer (BBL) indicates that the velocity intensification is observed over the boundary layer upper border. A 10-day long benthic storm with a maximum measured velocity of 13 cm/s was revealed 6 m above the bottom. As was found, the origin of the benthic storm is associated with the penetration of an anticyclonic eddy down to the bottom.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov. 相似文献