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1.
R.T. McCall J.S.M. Van Thiel de Vries N.G. Plant A.R. Van Dongeren J.A. Roelvink D.M. Thompson A.J.H.M. Reniers 《Coastal Engineering》2010
A 2DH numerical, model which is capable of computing nearshore circulation and morphodynamics, including dune erosion, breaching and overwash, is used to simulate overwash caused by Hurricane Ivan (2004) on a barrier island. The model is forced using parametric wave and surge time series based on field data and large-scale numerical model results. The model predicted beach face and dune erosion reasonably well as well as the development of washover fans. Furthermore, the model demonstrated considerable quantitative skill (upwards of 66% of variance explained, maximum bias − 0.21 m) in hindcasting the post-storm shape and elevation of the subaerial barrier island when a sheet flow sediment transport limiter was applied. The prediction skill ranged between 0.66 and 0.77 in a series of sensitivity tests in which several hydraulic forcing parameters were varied. The sensitivity studies showed that the variations in the incident wave height and wave period affected the entire simulated island morphology while variations in the surge level gradient between the ocean and back barrier bay affected the amount of deposition on the back barrier and in the back barrier bay. The model sensitivity to the sheet flow sediment transport limiter, which served as a proxy for unknown factors controlling the resistance to erosion, was significantly greater than the sensitivity to the hydraulic forcing parameters. If no limiter was applied the simulated morphological response of the barrier island was an order of magnitude greater than the measured morphological response. 相似文献
2.
Modeling sea dike breaching induced by breaking wave impact-laboratory experiments and computational model 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Sea dikes are of crucial importance for the defense systems of low-lying coastal areas in countries such as Germany, The Netherlands, Denmark, etc. As sea dike breaching induced by storm surges is regarded as one of the main causes of coastal flood disasters, reliable predictions of both the breach initiation, formation and breach development is urgently needed. Although a simple preliminary model for the simulation of sea dike breaching initiated from the seaside was developed (Stanczak et al., 2006), its limitations showed the necessity for further research and for the development of a more detailed model. This paper therefore provides a summary of the results of laboratory experiments on the erosion of grass and clay revetment of a sea dike induced by breaking wave impact and describes the new detailed computational model, including an uncertainty analysis. 相似文献
3.
风暴潮可能给沿海城市造成巨大破坏, 而深圳位于易受台风影响的南海北部沿岸, 经济和人口总量巨大, 但有关深圳近海风暴潮的研究工作却十分匮乏。本文基于区域海洋模式系统(regional ocean model system, ROMS)建立了一个以深圳近海为中心的三层嵌套模型, 用于研究深圳近海台风所致风暴潮的影响因素。首先对2018年台风“山竹”过境深圳导致的风暴潮进行模拟, 模拟结果与观测结果较为一致。在此基础上, 进行一系列参数调整试验, 研究台风登陆地点、登陆角度、台风尺度、台风强度以及移动速度的改变对风暴潮及其分布的影响。结果表明, 在深圳西边登陆的台风, 比在深圳东边登陆的台风产生的最大增水高1.5m左右。由东往西移动并登陆深圳的台风, 比由南向北移动的台风产生的最大增水高1.0m左右。台风最大风速半径增加15%, 最大增水上升0.2m左右。台风强度增强15%, 最大增水上升0.4m左右。台风移动速度总体上对风暴潮影响不大, 但不同登陆地点存在明显差异。当台风在深圳西边或者东边登陆时, 台风移动速度增加30%, 深圳沿海各海湾的最大增水反而上升0.2~0.6m。当台风从深圳中部登陆时, 台风移动速度增加30%, 珠江口的最大增水降低0.1m左右, 大鹏湾和大亚湾的最大增水却相反地上升0.2m左右, 不同海湾对台风移动速度呈现不同的变化特征, 与各海湾水体重新分布到稳定状态时间和台风作用时间有关。 相似文献
4.
Filipe Rafael Ceia Joana Patrício João Carlos Marques João Alveirinho Dias 《Ocean & Coastal Management》2010,53(8):478-486
Coastal vulnerability in barrier island systems is extremely high. The barrier island shoreline is exposed to many threats, such as storm erosion, reductions in sediment longshore drift and sea level rise. Many of these threats to coastal areas, such as Ria Formosa, are likely to increase in the near future. The main objectives of the present study are to identify the areas in the system that are at most risk by assessing the evolution of the Ria Formosa barrier island system since the 1940s, and determine which interventions would be necessary to protect these areas.The coastal vulnerability of the system was assessed based on current literature, data available from official institutions, and aerial and terrestrial in situ examination. The results obtained for the evolution of the Ria Formosa coastal system reveal that there are several vulnerable areas that have very dynamic processes, such as extremely high evolution rates of islands and inlets. Human actions that affect the whole system, namely the construction of many physical structures, are the main cause of the instability. Moreover, as several stakeholders are involved, efficient management of the coastal system is imperative. Extensive and careful interventions are urgently needed to avoid irreversible negative impacts on the barrier island system. Three types of techniques could be adopted to deal with the threats to barrier islands: hard stabilization, soft techniques, and non-structural alternatives. However, using hard techniques has many negative effects compared to soft techniques, and as a result it is necessary to remove existing structures from the areas at most risk. 相似文献
5.
Hurricane impact and recovery shoreline change analysis of the Chandeleur Islands,Louisiana, USA: 1855 to 2005 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Sarah Mary Fearnley Michael D. Miner Mark Kulp Carl Bohling Shea Penland 《Geo-Marine Letters》2009,29(6):455-466
Results from historical (1855–2005) shoreline change analysis conducted along the Chandeleur Islands, Louisiana demonstrate
that tropical cyclone frequency dominates the long-term evolution of this barrier island chain. Island area decreased at a
rate of −0.16 km2/year for the relatively quiescent time period up until 1996, when an increase in tropical cyclone frequency accelerated this
island area reduction to a rate of −1.01 km2/year. More frequent hurricanes also affected shoreline retreat rates, which increased from −11.4 m/year between 1922 and
1996 to −41.9 m/year between 1982 and 2005. The erosional impact caused by the passage of Hurricane Katrina in 2005 was unprecedented.
Between 2004 and 2005, the shoreline of the northern islands retreated −201.5 m/year, compared with an average retreat rate
of −38.4 m/year between 1922 and 2004. A linear regression analysis of shoreline change predicts that, as early as 2013, the
backbarrier marsh that serves to stabilize the barrier island chain will be completely destroyed if storm frequency observed
during the past decade persists. If storm frequency decreases to pre-1996 recurrence intervals, the backbarrier marsh is predicted
to remain until 2037. Southern portions of the barrier island chain where backbarrier marsh is now absent behave as ephemeral
islands that are destroyed after storm impacts and reemerge during extended periods of calm weather, a coastal behavior that
will eventually characterize the entire island chain. 相似文献
6.
岬湾海岸中一般在岬角的右侧与左侧（面向大海方向）分别发育顺时针与逆时针涡流。这些涡流的存在对泥沙输运、海底地形演变、污染物扩散等都具有重要影响。而在海洋中岛屿的存在将产生局部的岛后尾流。如岛屿与岬角距离较近，岛后尾流可能与岬角涡旋相互作用，反之则相互影响较小。本文以海南岛铺前湾为例，研究在岬湾海岸中湾口处的人工岛建设对湾内涡旋的影响，并进一步分析人工岛建设对整个海湾海底冲淤变化的效应。本项研究主要采用COAWST模型进行研究。结果表明，大潮期在海湾内发育大范围的顺时针涡旋，小潮期涡旋发育不明显，以东向余流为主。人工岛建设并未影响整个海湾的涡旋结构，但人工岛分隔了湾内顺时针涡旋，且在周围产生局部的逆时针与顺时针涡旋。海底冲淤变化的基本格局为湾内以淤积为主，人工岛建设加强了这种趋势，但在人工岛与岸线之间的狭窄通道内，海底出现冲刷。本项研究对岬湾海岸的科学开发管理具有一定意义。 相似文献
7.
Adrian St?nic? Sebastian Dan José A. JiménezGheorghe V. Ungureanu 《Ocean & Coastal Management》2011,54(12):898-906
The most severe shoreline retreat (over 20 m/year) along the Danube Delta coast has been recorded in the coastal stretch confined by the Sulina branch (north) and Sahalin spit island (south). This erosive trend is caused by the natural evolution of some stretches of the Danube Delta coast, but strongly enhanced by the human activities. Human interventions result in the dramatic decrease in quantity of sediments reaching the coast and in the disruption of natural sediment circulation in the coastal area. EUROSION FP5 Project developed four concepts to be used in coastal studies: coastal sediment cell, coastal resilience, favourable sediment status and strategic sediment reservoir. The main objectives of this study regard the application of the CONSCIENCE methodology and test of the concepts in order to identify and understand the main threats for Sulina - Sahalin littoral cell, especially the coastal erosion one, as well as to provide a sound working methodology for coastal managers to deal with these threats. The sediment budget computed in previous studies, as well as the field observations, indicate a lack of sediments for the littoral cell (unfavourable sediment status). In order to asses the vulnerability of the coast to short term extreme events (especially storms), simulations of water level changes were performed and calibrated with the field observations. A processes based numerical model was used to simulate the storm induced water level variations and the main input data were the bathymetry of the active beach, wind direction and speed (storm scenarios) and the characteristics of water and air. The results show large water level increases for the central part of the study zone, especially for northern wind directions.The main solution proposed to deal the problems arising from a sediment-starved coast, vulnerable to the extreme events, is artificial nourishment. Two strategic sediment reservoirs were identified, both of them at the northern boundary of the cell: the sediments dredged periodically from Sulina mouth and the sediments accumulated in Musura Bay, just north of Sulina jetties. The transfer of these sediments towards the central part of the littoral cell Sulina - Sahalin would decrease the erosion rates to a natural level and restore the natural coastal resilience. The methodology developed in CONSCIENCE Framework and applied to Danube Delta coastal zone provided good results when problems and solutions for the coastal zone were to be identified and tested. This methodology and its related results can be applied by the local coastal managers to Sulina - Sahalin littoral cell, while this experience can be extended to other similar environments facing the same problems. 相似文献
8.
从风暴潮、黄河口治理、海水地下入侵与咸水侵染、海岸及沿海污染、沿海滩涂与黄河三角洲开发、海上交通和港口发展、海岸和海上石油开采、海岸工业基地建设、沿海旅游和海岛开发 ,以及沿岸淡水资源开发与海水利用等 1 0个方面 ,对山东省海岸工程的可持续发展问题进行了分析和讨论 ,并针对具体问题 ,提出了解决可持续发展问题的对策与措施。 相似文献
9.
John F. Bratton John Karl Böhlke David E. Krantz Craig R. Tobias 《Marine Chemistry》2009,113(1-2):78-92
To better understand large-scale interactions between fresh and saline groundwater beneath an Atlantic coastal estuary, an offshore drilling and sampling study was performed in a large barrier-bounded lagoon, Chincoteague Bay, Maryland, USA. Groundwater that was significantly fresher than overlying bay water was found in shallow plumes up to 8 m thick extending more than 1700 m offshore. Groundwater saltier than bay surface water was found locally beneath the lagoon and the barrier island, indicating recharge by saline water concentrated by evaporation prior to infiltration. Steep salinity and nutrient gradients occur within a few meters of the sediment surface in most locations studied, with buried peats and estuarine muds acting as confining units. Groundwater ages were generally more than 50 years in both fresh and brackish waters as deep as 23 m below the bay bottom. Water chemistry and isotopic data indicate that freshened plumes beneath the estuary are mixtures of water originally recharged on land and varying amounts of estuarine surface water that circulated through the bay floor, possibly at some distance from the sampling location. Ammonium is the dominant fixed nitrogen species in saline groundwater beneath the estuary at the locations sampled. Isotopic and dissolved-gas data from one location indicate that denitrification within the subsurface flow system removed terrestrial nitrate from fresh groundwater prior to discharge along the western side of the estuary. Similar situations, with one or more shallow semi-confined flow systems where groundwater geochemistry is strongly influenced by circulation of surface estuary water through organic-rich sediments, may be common on the Atlantic margin and elsewhere. 相似文献
10.
11.
近年来,应用数值模型模拟台风引起的风暴潮运动越来越普遍,模型中对于风拖曳力系数的确定,一般都从相对风速出发,可引用的公式也较多,但这些公式很少考虑潮位变化对此系数的影响.在强潮河口、海岸海域,潮位变幅大,最高潮位甚至可达风速参考高度(10m)的近一半,如长江口和杭州湾.在数值模拟中不考虑风暴潮和天文潮共同引起的潮位变化,会造成风应力高潮时被低估、低潮时被高估的现象,从而影响风暴潮模拟的精度.为此本文对现有的风拖曳力系数加以改进,提出了考虑潮位影响的风拖曳力系数表达式,并应用于长江口、杭州湾9711号台风风暴潮的模拟中,增水模拟结果得到了明显改善,可进一步推广应用于强潮河口、海岸的风暴潮增水模拟中. 相似文献
12.
Jennifer L. Irish Ashley E. Frey Julie D. Rosati Francisco Olivera Lauren M. Dunkin James M. Kaihatu Celso M. Ferreira Billy L. Edge 《Ocean & Coastal Management》2010,53(10):645-657
Hurricane flooding is a leading natural threat to coastal communities. Recent evidence of sea level rise coupled with potential future global warming indicate that sea level rise will accelerate and hurricanes may intensify over the coming decades. In regions fronted by barrier islands, the protective capacity of these islands may diminish as they are degraded by rising sea level. Here we present a hydrodynamic and geospatial analysis of the relative role of barrier island degradation on potential future hurricane flooding. For the City of Corpus Christi, Texas, USA, hurricane flooding is projected to rise between 20% and 70% by the 2030s, resulting in an increase in property damages and impacted population. These findings indicate that adaptive management strategies should be developed and adopted for mitigating loss of natural barrier islands when these islands act as protective features for populated bayside communities. Finally, this study illustrates a method for applying models to forecast future storm protection benefits of barrier island restoration projects. 相似文献
13.
铁山港海湾是一个遭受风暴潮灾害影响较为严重的半封闭型海湾,基于有限元海洋数学模型ADCIRC (Advanced Circulation Model)研究了1409号"威马逊"台风期间铁山港海湾的风暴潮特征及非线性作用。结果表明:当考虑天文潮与风暴潮之间的相互作用时,风暴潮水位的计算结果更加准确,只考虑纯台风影响时,计算结果会低估风暴潮增水值,高估减水值,对预报结果造成较大的误差。海湾内部的增水要远大于湾外,但是减水值则相差不大。通过对天文潮和风暴潮非线性作用的影响因子进行分析,风应力的浅水效应可以忽略,但底摩擦项和对流项影响较大。在海湾内部对流项占主导地位,与天文潮的耦合作用也较强;而在湾外,底摩擦项占优势,耦合作用在海湾内外都较强。天文潮与风暴潮相互作用产生的非线性水位在湾顶处最大可达0.94 m,出现在风暴潮最大减水时刻,风暴潮增水发生后有所减弱,非线性水位表现出从湾外向湾内递增的规律。 相似文献
14.
Li Yan-ting Zeng Cheng-jie Yi-han Zhao Hu Po Sun Tian-ting Hou Yi-jun Mo Dong-xue Wang Deng-ting 《中国海洋工程》2022,36(3):413-426
Storm surges are cataclysmic natural disasters that occur along the coasts and are usually accompanied by large waves. The effects of coupled storm surges and waves can pose a significant threat to coastal security. Previous laboratory studies on the effects of storm surges and waves on coastal structures have typically utilized steady water levels and constant wave elements. An indoor simulation of the coupled processes of tides and waves is developed by adding a tide generation system to an existing laboratory wave basin to model continuous dynamic tide levels so that tide generation and wave-making occur synchronously in the pool. Specific experimental methods are given, which are applied to further study waves overtopping on artificial sea dikes and coastal flooding evolution under the coupled actions of tides and waves. The results of the overtopping discharge obtained by the test with a dynamic water level are compared with those obtained from steady water level tests and the existing empirical formula. In addition, the impacts of ecological coastal shelterbelts and structures on coastal flood processes and distributions are also investigated. The proposed simulation methods provide a new approach for studying the effects of storm surges and waves on coastal areas. The study also aims to provide a reference for coastal protective engineering.
相似文献15.
Modelling storm impacts on beaches, dunes and barrier islands 总被引：10，自引：0，他引：10
Dano Roelvink Ad Reniers Ap van Dongeren Jaap van Thiel de Vries Robert McCall Jamie Lescinski 《Coastal Engineering》2009,56(11-12):1133-1152
A new nearshore numerical model approach to assess the natural coastal response during time-varying storm and hurricane conditions, including dune erosion, overwash and breaching, is validated with a series of analytical, laboratory and field test cases. Innovations include a non-stationary wave driver with directional spreading to account for wave-group generated surf and swash motions and an avalanching mechanism providing a smooth and robust solution for slumping of sand during dune erosion. The model performs well in different situations including dune erosion, overwash and breaching with specific emphasis on swash dynamics, avalanching and 2DH effects; these situations are all modelled using a standard set of parameter settings. The results show the importance of infragravity waves in extending the reach of the resolved processes to the dune front. The simple approach to account for slumping of the dune face by avalanching makes the model easily applicable in two dimensions and applying the same settings good results are obtained both for dune erosion and breaching. 相似文献
16.
John S. Lively Zena Kaufman Edward J. Carpenter 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》1983,16(1):51-68
The phytoplankton ecology of Great South Bay, New York, was studied over a 1-year period. The study area, a large barrier island estuary (coastal lagoon with estuarine circulation), was characterized by high levels of inorganic nutrients, high turbidity and a shallow euphotic zone (<2 m). Net annual primary production by phytoplankton was high—450 g C m?2 year?1—and accounted for approximately 85% of the total ecosystem primary production. Chlorophyll a-specific productivity was dependent on mean photic zone light intensity in areas of the bay <1 m in depth from September 1979 through June 1980; 65–95% of the total light extinction in those areas was attibutable to suspended solids. Nitrogenous nutrient concentration did not limit phytoplankton productivity. Diatom and dinoflagellate cell densities varied greatly over time, while cryptomonad and chlorophyte species were abundant throughtout the year. Chlorophytes of 2–4 μm (‘small forms’) were numerically dominant, and contributed approximately half of the total phytoplankton biomass. Dilution of bay water by intruding ocean water appeared to control the spatial distribution of chlorophyll a on the south side of the bay; in other areas, growth appeared to exceed the rate of dilution by flushing. Waters entrained in eelgrass beds were significantly higher in salinity and mean photic zone light intensity, and had lower phytoplankton standing stock and depth-integrated primary production than control areas; waters in the sediment plume of active clamdigging boats were statistically similar to control areas with respect to water quality and phytoplankton community characteristics. 相似文献
17.
Liang Zhou Xiaomei Xu Yaping Wang Jianjun Jia Yang Yang Gaocong Li Changliang Tong Shu Gao 《海洋学报(英文版)》2021,40(11):162-175
The relationship between storm activity and global warming remains uncertain. To better understand storm–climate relationships, coastal lagoon deposits are increasingly being investigated because they could provide high-resolution storm records long enough to cover past climate changes. However, site-specific sediment dynamics and high barriers may bias storm reconstructions. Here, we aimed to investigate these factors through the reconstruction of five distinct storm records (XCL-01, XC-03, XC-06, XC-07, XC-08) from different water depths in a lagoon with a high barrier (i.e., Xincun Lagoon of Hainan Island). Sediment cores were characterized using high-resolution grain size and XRF measurements, to identify storm events. These data were coupled with a numerical simulation to obtain bed shear stress data with high-spatial resolution to better understand storm-induced sediment transport mechanisms. 210Pb dating and Pb pollution chronostratigraphic markers indicated that the chronology of the storm deposit sequences of the cores span the period between 117 a and 348 a. The grain size and XRF results indicated numerous, highly variable and short-duration fluctuations, suggesting that storm-induced coarse-grained sediments were deposited at these core sites. The inconsistent storm events recorded in these cores suggest that these sites have different preservation potentials for storm deposits. However, the consistence between storm sediment records and historical documents for Core XCL-01 indicates that high-barrier lagoons could provide long-term storm event records with high preservation potential. 相似文献
18.
J.G. Ferreira A.M. Nobre T.C. Simas M.C. Silva A. Newton S.B. Bricker W.J. Wolff P.E. Stacey A. Sequeira 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2006,66(3-4):468-482
A methodology is developed and tested for division of estuarine and coastal systems into water bodies for monitoring and management purposes. This division is often implicit in the choice of sampling stations and in pollution abatement measures applied to different locations – it is now an explicit requirement of European Union Directive 2000/60/EC (Water Framework Directive) and recommended by United States Agencies such as EPA and NOAA. The approach considers both natural characteristics and the human dimension, by means of a stepwise methodology, which considers, on the one hand, morphology and salinity distribution, and, on the other, appropriate indicators of pressure and state. In the present application, nitrogen and phosphorus loading was used as the pressure component and chlorophyll a and dissolved oxygen as indicators of state. The criteria for system division were defined based on (1) an adimensional shape factor and salinity classes for the natural component; and (2) a normalised pressure index and (ASSETS) eutrophication symptom classes for the human dimension. Water quality databases and GIS were used to develop spatial distributions for the various components, and the results were aggregated into a final water body division, using tidal excursion as a “common sense” test. The methodology was applied to three well-studied systems in Portugal, a tubular estuary (Mondego), a wide lagunal estuary (Sado) and a coastal barrier island system (Ria Formosa). Although a final definition of water bodies will usually be a policy decision, this type of approach for the division of coastal systems into management units scientifically informs the decision-making process. 相似文献
19.
Human activities in the watersheds surrounding Maunalua Bay, Oahu, Hawaii, have lead to the degradation of coastal coral reefs affecting populations of marine organisms of ecological, economic and cultural value. Urbanization, stream channelization, breaching of a peninsula, seawalls, and dredging on the east side of the bay have resulted in increased volumes and residence time of polluted runoff waters, eutrophication, trapping of terrigenous sediments, and the formation of a permanent nepheloid layer. The ecosystem collapse on the east side of the bay and the prevailing westward longshore current have resulted in the collapse of the coral and coralline algae population on the west side of the bay. In turn this has lead to a decrease in carbonate sediment production through bio-erosion as well as a disintegration of the dead coral and coralline algae, leading to sediment starvation and increased wave breaking on the coast and thus increased coastal erosion. The field data and resulting coral reef ecohydrology model presented in this paper demonstrate and quantify the importance of biophysical processes leading to coral reef degradation as the result of urbanization. Coral restoration in Maunalua Bay will require an integrated ecosystem approach. 相似文献
20.
This paper describes the results of investigations of the consequences of the storms on the Pacific coast of Shikotan Island
that occurred on October 7–10, 2006 and January 6–8, 2007. These storms and their impact on the coastal zone can be considered
as extreme events for the last 40–50 years. The heights and flooding area of the storm surges within bay coasts of different
types were measured. The coastal relief’s changes are described. During the storms, a cover of deposits was formed having
a size of up to 30 m outside the beach zone and up to 52 m in the near-mouth zones. The grain-size composition of the storm
deposits is analyzed and their difference from other coastal facies, including tsunami sands, are established. 相似文献