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1.
Activities of 26Al and 10Be in five chert clasts sampled from two beach ridges of late Pleistocene Lake Lisan, precursor of the Dead Sea in southern Israel, indicate low rates of chert bedrock erosion and complex exposure, burial, and by inference, transport histories. The chert clasts were derived from the Senonian Mishash Formation, a chert‐bearing chalk, which is widely exposed in the Nahal Zin drainage basin, the drainage system that supplied most of the material to the beach ridges. Simple exposure ages, assuming only exposure at the beach ridge sampling sites, range from 35 to 354 ky; using the ratio 26Al/10Be, total clast histories range from 0·46 to 4·3 My, unrelated to the clasts' current position and exposure period on the late Pleistocene beach ridges, 160–177 m below sea level. Optically stimulated luminescence dating of fine sediments from the same and nearby beach ridges yielded ages of 20·0 ± 1·4 ka and 36·1 ± 3·3 ka. These ages are supported by the degree of soil development on the beach ridges and correspond well with previously determined ages of Lake Lisan, which suggest that the lake reached its highest stand around 27 000 cal. years BP . If the clasts were exposed only once and than buried beyond the range of significant cosmogenic nuclide production, then the minimum initial exposure and the total burial times before delivery to the beach ridge are in the ranges 50–1300 ky and 390–3130 ky respectively. Alternatively, the initial cosmogenic dosing could have occurred during steady erosion of the source bedrock. Back calculating such rates of rock erosion suggests values between 0·4 and 12 m My?1. The relatively long burial periods indicate extended sediment storage as colluvium on slopes and/or as alluvial deposits in river terraces. Some clasts may have been stored for long periods in abandoned Pliocene and early Pleistocene routes of Nahal Zin to the Mediterranean before being transported again back into the Nahal Zin drainage system and washed on to the shores of Lake Lisan during the late Pleistocene. Copyright © 2003 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

2.
Proxies, such as changes in beach profiles and shoreline positions, are commonly used in management and research for estimating changes in subaerial beach volume; however, the accuracy of these proxies across increasing time scales and complex morphologies is unclear. Volume changes associated with along‐beach morphologic variability may not be captured well by changes in profiles, while volume changes associated with across‐beach morphologic variability may not be captured well by measuring shoreline change. This study assesses the impacts of morphologic variations, associated with beach cusps and nourishment material, on volume change estimates from profiles and shoreline change at 0.5 to 3.5 year time periods. Results indicate that profiles spaced ≥ 150 m apart and the shoreline‐change proxy will likely estimate volume change inaccurately over periods ≤ 1 year at beaches that are consistently eroding or accreting and contain cusps. However, over longer time periods (1–3.5 years), estimates of volume change from both proxies improved at those types of beaches. Volume changes at the edges of nourishment areas are not captured well by profiles. When the nourishment material is graded to a ramped morphology, which minimizes across‐beach morphologic variability, the shoreline‐change proxy does accurately estimate volume changes. Both proxies estimate volume changes inaccurately at beaches where volume changes oscillate between erosion and accretion on both short and long time scales because the magnitude of small‐scale changes in volume from the formation and erosion of morphologic features, such as cusps and berms, will always be similar to the longer‐term net volume change. This study suggests that decadal records of shoreline change, which are commonly developed using aerial photography, can be used to help identify the best proxy for estimating volume change; however, recent anthropogenic modifications that impact patterns of beach sedimentation, including nourishment, terminal groins, and inlet‐channel dredging, makes decadal records less useful. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

3.
The coast of southeast Africa is dominated by sandy beaches that tend to be confined within log‐spiral or headland‐bound embayments. Investigations using serendipitous air imagery data set have been previously undertaken and conclusions drawn about the stability of the coast. We show that conclusions drawn from this data, with respect to the high water mark (HWM) position are fraught with errors, which include tidal state, pressure regime, beach slope, high‐swell erosion, seasonal and multi‐annual changes. We highlight and discuss these sources of error, together with their magnitudes. The most significant of these are the high‐swell, seasonal and multi‐annual variations. From case studies we show that the seasonal beach rotation and long‐term beach width variation are responsible for tens of metres of unaccounted HWM variation, 30 to 50 m is common, with maximums reaching 60 to 100 m. Overall the southeast African coastline appears to be in a state of long‐term dynamic equilibrium. There is no evidence of any sea‐level rise‐forced transgression in the coastal sediment budget, despite sea‐level rise (SLR). If such a signal is, in fact present, it is lost within the beach width variation. Some southeast African coastal reaches are suffering chronic erosion, but these are related to anthropogenic impacts. The extreme difficulty of placing a HWM, with any temporal validity on this coast precludes the routine use of the Bruun Rule. Although no transgressive signature is found, there is evidence of a decreasing coastal sand budget as a result of anthropogenic or natural climate change, or both. This decrease in the coastal sand volume is likely to result in increased future erosion. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

4.
The dynamics of the dunefoot along a 160 km portion of the Dutch coast has been investigated based on a data set of annual surveys dating back to as early as 1850. The linearly detrended (or residual) dunefoot positions comprise an alongshore uniform and an alongshore non‐uniform component. The former is expressed as 10 to 15 m of landward retreat along extensive (>10 km) stretches of coast during years with severe storm surges and as up to 5 m of seaward advance during years without significant storm activity. The latter, alongshore non‐uniform component is organized in sandwave‐like patterns, which may have a longevity of decades to up to the duration of the entire data set (150 years). Their wavelengths vary along the coast, from 3·5 to 10 km; migration rates are 0–200 m a?1. Dunefoot sandwaves are shown to be the shoreward extensions of similar sandwave patterns in the beach position. The non‐uniform dunefoot behaviour constitutes at least 80 per cent of the total residual dunefoot dynamics, implying that along the Dutch coast residual dunefoot variability is controlled by temporal and spatial variability in beach characteristics, and not by storm‐induced uniform erosion. Various potential mechanisms causing beach sandwaves are discussed. Copyright © 2002 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

5.
Temporal observations of rip current circulation on a macro-tidal beach   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  
A field experiment was conducted on a high energy macro-tidal beach (Perranporth, UK) to examine rip current dynamics over a low-tide transverse bar/rip system in response to changing tide and wave conditions. Hydrodynamic data were collected using an array of in situ acoustic doppler current meters and pressure transducers, as well as 12 GPS-tracked Lagrangian surf zone drifters. Inter-tidal and sub-tidal morphology were measured through RTK-GPS and echo-sounder surveys. Data were collected for eight consecutive days (15 tides) over a spring-neap tidal cycle with tidal ranges of 4–6.5 m and offshore significant wave heights of 1–2 m and peak periods of 5–12 s.  相似文献   

6.
Increases in the frequency and magnitude of extreme water levels and storm surges are correlated with known indices of climatic variability (CV), including the El Niño Southern Oscillation (ENSO) and the Pacific Decadal Oscillation (PDO), along some areas of the British Columbia coast. Since a shift to a positive PDO regime in 1977, the effects of ENSO events have been more frequent, persistent, and intense. Teleconnected impacts include more frequent storms, higher surges, and enhanced coastal erosion. The response of oceanographic forcing mechanisms (i.e. tide, surge, wave height, wave period) to CV events and their role in coastal erosion remain unclear, particularly in western Canada. As a first step in exploring the interactions between ocean–atmosphere forcing and beach–dune responses, this paper assembles the historic erosive total water level (TWL) regime and explores relations with observed high magnitude storms that have occurred in the Tofino‐Ucluelet region (Wickaninnish Bay) on the west coast of Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada. Extreme events where TWL exceeded an erosional threshold (i.e. elevation of the beach–foredune junction) of 5·5 m aCD are examined to identify dominant forcing mechanisms and to classify a regime that describes erosive events driven principally by wave conditions (61·5%), followed by surge (21·8%), and tidal (16·7%) effects. Furthermore, teleconnections between regional CV phenomena, extreme storm events and, by association, coastal erosion, are explored. Despite regional sea level rise (eustatic and steric), rapid crustal uplift rates have resulted in a falling relative sea level and, in some sedimentary systems, shoreline progradation at rates approaching +1·5 m a–1 over recent decades. Foredune erosion occurs locally with a recurrence interval of approximately 1·53 years followed by rapid rebuilding due to high onshore sand supply and often in the presence of large woody debris and rapidly colonizing vegetation in the backshore. Copyright © 2012 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

7.
A sample ord, a low section of beach characteristic of the Holderness coast, is examined as it moved southwards between 1977 and 1983 and its significant role in coast erosion is demonstrated. The reduction in beach level at the cliff foot by up to 3.9 m enabled most HWN tides to reach it, as compared with only some HWS tides along the inter-ord beach, and the volume of till eroded from the cliffs increased by eight times to an annual mean of 72m3m?1. The Holderness tills are shown to be composed of 31 per cent sand and coarser sediment which is the sediment range of the beaches. Where an ord is sited the massive injection of beach sediment goes to form the ord's most prominent constructional feature, the lower beach ridge which extends southwards from the centre of the ord. Analysis of 12 months' observer wave data collected at Withernsea in 1969/70 indicates that a net southward sand movement of 144 000 m3 occurred. Comparison of this rate with beach sediment input rates along the whole coast backed by till cliffs suggests a sediment deficit at the northern end and a surplus towards the southern end. This conclusion is supported by an overall increase in beach sediment volume southwards from Barmston. Within this longshore sediment transport system, the ords migrate southwards from their point of origin in the Barmston-Skipsea area, without losing their identity until reaching the tip of Spurn Head.  相似文献   

8.
This paper examines the daily morphological responses of Sununga Beach, an embayed beach located on the south‐eastern Brazilian coast, to storms in the South Atlantic Ocean. The main mechanisms and timing of beach erosion and accretion, the relationship between wave height and direction, and beach volume changes are considered, to establish a qualitative model for short‐term embayed beach morphological changes. The methodology consisted of daily topographic surveys during the month of May in 2001, 2002, and 2003, using an RTK‐GPS (real‐time kinematics – global positioning system). Weather and wave model results were used to correlate hydrodynamics and beach morphology. The results indicate that the morphodynamics of Sununga Beach are characterized by a process of beach rotation, which occurred more or less clearly during all three surveys. Unlike what has been commonly described in the literature for longer time intervals and alternations of fair and stormy weather, the beach rotation processes on Sununga Beach occurred under conditions of moderate‐to‐high wave energy change (wave heights greater than 2 m). An integrated evaluation of the behaviour of the meteorological aspects, together with beach morphology, enabled us to recognize that extra‐tropical cyclones were the most important agent in remobilizing the beach planform, whether in beach rotation or in cross‐shore erosion. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

9.
This study analyses beach morphological change during six consecutive storms acting on the meso‐tidal Faro Beach (south Portugal) between 15 December 2009 and 7 January 2010. Morphological change of the sub‐aerial beach profile was monitored through frequent topographic surveys across 11 transects. Measurements of the surf/swash zone dimensions, nearshore bar dynamics, and wave run‐up were extracted from time averaged and timestack coastal images, and wave and tidal data were obtained from offshore stations. All the information combined suggests that during consecutive storm events, the antecedent morphological state can initially be the dominant controlling factor of beach response; while the hydrodynamic forcing, and especially the tide and surge levels, become more important during the later stages of a storm period. The dataset also reveals the dynamic nature of steep‐sloping beaches, since sub‐aerial beach volume reductions up to 30 m3/m were followed by intertidal area recovery (–2 < z < 3 m) with rates reaching ~10 m3/m. However, the observed cumulative dune erosion and profile pivoting imply that storms, even of regular intensity, can have a dramatic impact when they occur in groups. Nearshore bars seemed to respond to temporal scales more related to storm sequences than to individual events. The formation of a prominent crescentic offshore bar at ~200 m from the shoreline appeared to reverse the previous offshore migration trend of the inner bar, which was gradually shifted close to the seaward swash zone boundary. The partially understood nearshore bar processes appeared to be critical for storm wave attenuation in the surf zone; and were considered mainly responsible for the poor interpretation of the observed beach behaviour on the grounds of standard, non‐dimensional, morphological parameters. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

10.
Erosion of hard‐rock coastal cliffs is understood to be caused by a combination of both marine and sub‐aerial processes. Beach morphology, tidal elevation and significant wave heights, especially under extreme storm conditions, can lead to variability in wave energy flux to the cliff‐toe. Wave and water level measurements in the nearshore under energetic conditions are difficult to obtain and in situ observations are rare. Here we use monthly cliff‐face volume changes detected using terrestrial laser scanning alongside beach morphological changes and modelled nearshore hydrodynamics to examine how exposed cliffs respond to changes in extreme wave conditions and beach morphology. The measurements cover the North Atlantic storms of 2013 to 2014 and consider two exposed stretches of coastline (Porthleven and Godrevy, UK) with contrasting beach morphology fronting the cliffs; a flat dissipative sandy beach at Godrevy and a steep reflective gravel beach at Porthleven. Beach slope and the elevation of the beach–cliff junction were found to influence the frequency of cliff inundation and the power of wave–cliff impacts. Numerical modelling (XBeach‐G) showed that under highly energetic wave conditions, i.e. those that occurred in the North Atlantic during winter 2013–2014, with Hs = 5.5 m (dissipative site) and 8 m (reflective site), the combination of greater wave height and steeper beach at the reflective site led to amplified wave run‐up, subjecting these cliffs to waves over four times as powerful as those impacting the cliffs at the dissipative site (39 kWm‐1 compared with 9 kWm‐1). This study highlighted the sensitivity of cliff erosion to extreme wave conditions, where the majority (over 90% of the annual value) of cliff‐face erosion ensued during the winter. The significance of these short‐term erosion rates in the context of long‐term retreat illustrates the importance of incorporating short‐term beach and wave dynamics into geomorphological studies of coastal cliff change. © 2017 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.  相似文献   

11.
Field measurements of wave ripples and megaripples were made with a Sand Ripple Profiler in the surf and shoaling zones of a sandy macrotidal dissipative beach at Perranporth, UK in depths 1–6 m and significant wave heights up to 2.2 m. A frequency domain partitioning approach allowed quantification of height (η), length (λ) and migration rate of ripples and megaripples. Wave ripples with heights up to 2 cm and wavelengths ～20 cm developed in low orbital velocity conditions (u m?<?0.65 m/s) with mobility number ψ?<?25. Wave ripple heights decreased with increasing orbital velocity and were flattened when mean currents were >0.1 m/s. Wave ripples were superimposed on top of megaripples (η?=?10 cm, λ?=?1 m) and contributed up to 35 % of the total bed roughness. Large megaripples with heights up to 30 cm and lengths 1–1.8 m developed when the orbital velocity was 0.5–0.8 m/s, corresponding to mobility numbers 25–50. Megaripple heights and wavelengths increased with orbital velocity but reduced when mean current strengths were >0.15 m/s. Wave ripple and megaripple migrations were generally onshore directed in the shoaling and surf zones. Onshore ripple migration rates increased with onshore-directed (+ve) incident wave skewness. The onshore migration rate reduced as offshore-directed mean flows (undertow) increased in strength and reached zero when the offshore-directed mean flow was >0.15 m/s. The migration pattern was therefore linked to cross-shore position relative to the surf zone, controlled by competition between onshore-directed velocity skewness and offshore-directed mean flow.  相似文献   

12.
Wei Wei  Liding Chen  Bojie Fu  Yihe Lü  Jie Gong 《水文研究》2009,23(12):1780-1791
Rainfall extremes (RE) become more variable and stochastic in the context of climate change, increasing uncertainties and risks of water erosion in the real world. Vegetation also plays a key role in soil erosion dynamics. Responses of water erosion to RE and vegetation, however, remain unclear. In this article, on the basis of the data measured on 15 plots (area: 10 m × 10 m and 10 m × 5 m) and the definition of World Meteorological Organization (WMO) on rainfall extremes, 158 natural rainfall events from 1986 to 2005 were analysed, and rain depth and maximal 30‐min intensity (MI30) were used to define RE. Then, water erosion process under RE and five vegetation types (spring wheat, alfalfa, sea buckthorn, Chinese pine, and wheatgrass) were studied in a key loess semiarid hilly area, NW China. The following findings were made: (1) The minimal thresholds of depth and MI30 for defining RE were determined as 40·11 mm and 0·55 mm/min, respectively. Among the studied rainfall events, there were four events with both the variables exceeding the thresholds (REI), five events with depths exceeding 40·11 mm (REII), and four events with MI30 exceeding 0·55 mm/min (REIII). Therefore, not only extreme rainstorm, but also events with lower intensities and long durations were considered as RE. Moreover, RE occurred mostly in July and August, with a probability of 46 and 31%, respectively. (2) Extreme events, especially REI, in general caused severer soil‐water loss. Mean extreme runoff and erosion rates were 2·68 and 53·15 times of mean ordinary rates, respectively. The effect of each event on water erosion, however, becomes uncertain as a result of the variations of RE and vegetation. (3) The buffering capacities of vegetation on RE were generally in the order of sea buckthorn > wheatgrass > Chinese pine > alfalfa > spring wheat. In particular, sea buckthorn reduced runoff and erosion effectively after 3–4 years of plantation. Therefore, to fight against water erosion shrubs like sea buckthorn are strongly recommended as pioneer species in such areas. On the contrary, steep cultivation (spring wheat on slopes), however, should be avoided, because of its high sensitivities to RE. Copyright © 2009 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

13.
Changes in wind speed and sediment transport are evaluated at a gap and adjacent crest of a 2 to 3 m high, 40 m wide foredune built by sand fences and vegetation plantings on a wide, nourished fine sand beach at Ocean City, New Jersey. Anemometer masts, cylindrical sand traps and erosion pins were placed on the beach and dune during two obliquely onshore wind events in February and March 2003. Results reveal that: (1) changes in the alongshore continuity of the beach and dune system can act as boundaries to aeolian transport when winds blow at an angle to the shoreline; (2) oblique winds blowing across poorly vegetated patches in the dune increase the potential for creating an irregular crest elevation; (3) transport rates and deflation rates can be greater within the foredune than on the beach, if the dune surface is poorly vegetated and the beach has not had time to dry following tidal inundation; (4) frozen ground does not prevent surface deflation; and (5) remnant sand fences and fresh storm wrack have great local but temporary effect on transport rates. Temporal and spatial differences due to sand fences and wrack, changes in sediment availability due to time‐dependent differences in surface moisture and frozen ground, combined with complex topography and patchy vegetation make it difficult to specify cause–effect relationships. Effects of individual roughness elements on the beach and dune on wind flow and sediment transport can be quantified at specific locations at the event scale, but extrapolation of each event to longer temporal and spatial scales remains qualitative. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

14.
European settlement of the Poverty Bay Region resulted in deforestation and conversion of > 90% of the landscape to pastureland. The resulting loss of vegetation triggered a rapid increase in hillslope erosion as widespread landslide complexes and gully systems developed on weak lithologic units in the Waipaoa Basin. To quantify the rate and volume of historic hillslope degradation, we used a 1956–2010 sequence of aerial photographs for a ~16 km2 catchment to map temporal changes in the spatial extent of active landslides. Then we created a ‘turf index’ based on the extent and style of pastoral ground disruption, which correlates with downslope velocity. Based on the movement of trees and other features, we assigned average velocities to the turf classes as follows: (1) minimal disrupted ground: 0.6 m/yr, (2) a mix of disrupted ground and intact blocks: 3.4 m/yr, and (3) no intact blocks or vegetation: > 6 m/yr. We then calculated the average annual sediment flux using these turf‐derived velocities, the width of the landslide‐channel intersection, and an average toe depth of 4.4 ± 1.3 m (mean ± standard deviation [SD]) from 37 field measurements. The resulting catchment averaged erosion rates are (mean ± SD): 29.9 ± 12.9 mm/yr (1956), 28.8 ± 13.7 mm/yr (1969), 13.4 ± 4.9 mm/yr (1979), 17.0 ± 6.2 mm/yr (1988), and 9.9 ± 3.6 mm/yr (2010). Compared with long‐term (post‐18 ka) erosion rates (1.6 mm/yr) and the long‐term uplift rate (~1 mm/yr) for this site, the 50‐year anthropogenically‐driven rate is an order of magnitude larger (~20 mm/yr). Previously, we measured an increase in erosion over the past 3.4 kyr (2.2 mm/yr), and here, we demonstrate this increase could be primarily due to human land‐use change – showing that a century of rapid erosion superimposed on the background geologic rate can profoundly skew the interpretation of erosion rates. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

15.
Erosion rates are key to quantifying the timescales over which different topographic and geomorphic domains develop in mountain landscapes. Geomorphic and terrestrial cosmogenic nuclide (TCN) methods were used to determine erosion rates of the arid, tectonically quiescent Ladakh Range, northern India. Five different geomorphic domains are identified and erosion rates are determined for three of the domains using TCN 10Be concentrations. Along the range divide between 5600 and 5700 m above sea level (asl), bedrock tors in the periglacial domain are eroding at 5.0 ± 0.5 to 13.1 ± 1.2 meters per million years (m/m.y.)., principally by frost shattering. At lower elevation in the unglaciated domain, erosion rates for tributary catchments vary between 0.8 ± 0.1 and 2.0 ± 0.3 m/m.y. Bedrock along interfluvial ridge crests between 3900 and 5100 m asl that separate these tributary catchments yield erosion rates <0.7 ± 0.1 m/m.y. and the dominant form of bedrock erosion is chemical weathering and grusification. Erosion rates are fastest where glaciers conditioned hillslopes above 5100 m asl by over‐steepening slopes and glacial debris is being evacuated by the fluvial network. For range divide tors, the long‐term duration of the erosion rate is considered to be 40–120 ky. By evaluating measured 10Be concentrations in tors along a model 10Be production curve, an average of ~24 cm is lost instantaneously every ~40 ky. Small (<4 km2) unglaciated tributary catchments and their interfluve bedrock have received very little precipitation since ~300 ka and the long‐term duration of their erosion rates is 300–750 ky and >850 ky, respectively. These results highlight the persistence of very slow erosion in different geomorphic domains across the southwestern slope of the Ladakh Range, which on the scale of the orogen records spatial changes in the locus of deformation and the development of an orogenic rain shadow north of the Greater Himalaya. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

16.
Rill erosion is a serious concern in the hilly region of China with purple soil, and maize is extensively cultivated in this region. Evaluations of the dynamic mechanisms of rill erosion in sloping farmland areas are particularly important during the maize growing season to determine whether rill erosion can occur. A new ridge tillage (RT) system was designed using local agricultural methods in China. Twelve artificial rainfall experiments were conducted in three 1 × 2 m experimental plots with a slope of 15°, which is a typical slope in the study area. The rainfall intensities were designated as 1.0, 1.5, and 2.0 mm min?1. The rainfall experiments were performed in the field to determine the characteristics of run‐off and sediment transport related to rill erosion processes during different stages of maize growth and to analyse how hydraulic parameters and the sediment yield of the rill erosion process are related. The results showed that rill flow patterns were mainly classified as subcritical transition flow during all the growth stages of maize. The effects of hydrodynamic parameters on the sediment yield were ordered as follows: Reynolds number > stream power > Froude number > shear stress. The total sediment yield varied by stage as follows: seedling stage > jointing stage > mature stage > tasseling stage. The sediment yield and run‐off rate exhibited a linear relationship that was well described at the hillslope scale. To initiate soil loss in sloping farmland areas with purple soil during the maize growing season, the critical hydrodynamic shear stress and stream power must be at least 46.505 Pa and 1.541 N m?1 s?1, respectively.  相似文献   

17.
The eruption of Volcán Bárcena in 1952 covered Isla San Benedicto with trachytic tephra, except for the nearly vertical sea cliffs. Pluvial erosion on land generally was more important than colian deflation after mid-September 1952. Wave erosion, primarily occurring during summer storms, affected the island’s new shoreline that had built 900 ft. (274 m) seward by tephra fall-out and an additional 2160 ft. (658 m) by lava flowing into the sea in 1952–53. Photogrammetric study of photographs taken on 13 flights to the island showed that in the fall of 1952 wave erosion of the tephra sea cliff east of Bárcena occurred at an average rate of 5.5 ft. (1.7 m) per day. About 25×106 ft.3 (0.71×106 m3) of tephra were eroded during the initial 40-day period after formation of the volcano. This represents an average erosion rate of 625,000 ft.3 (17,700 m3) per day. Waves croded the seaward side of the lava flow by 60 ft. (18 m) during the 158-day period in 1953, representing an average daily rate of 0.4 ft. (0.12 m). Relatively little erosion occurred after 1953. The volcanic ash and lapilli beach north of the flow showed seasonal cut and fill, while the beach to the west was little affected by seasonal changes because of the prevailing direction of wave attack.  相似文献   

18.
The moisture content ws of a beach surface strongly controls the availability of sand for aeolian transport. Our predictive capability of the spatiotemporal variability in ws, which depends to a large extent on water table depth, is, however, limited. Here we show that water table fluctuations and surface moisture content observed during a 10-day period on a medium-grained (365μm) planar (1:30) beach can be predicted well with the nonlinear Boussinesq equation extended to include run-up infiltration and a soil–water retention curve under the assumption of hydrostatic equilibrium. On the intertidal part of the beach the water table is observed and predicted to continuously fall from the moment the beach surface emerges from the falling tide to just before it is submerged by the incoming tide. We find that on the lower 30% of the intertidal beach the water table remains within 0.1–0.2 m from the surface and that the sand is always saturated (ws≈20%, by mass). Higher up on the intertidal beach, the surface can dry to about 5% when the water table has fallen to 0.4–0.5 m beneath the surface. Above the high-tide level the water table is always too deep (>0.5 m) to affect surface moisture and, without precipitation, the sand is dry (ws < 5 − 8%). Because the water table depth on the emerged part of the intertidal beach increases with time irrespective of whether the (ocean) tide falls or rises, we find no need to include hysteresis (wetting and drying) effects in the surface-moisture modelling. Model simulations suggest that at the present planar beach only the part well above mean sea level can dry sufficiently (ws < 10%) for sand to become available for aeolian transport. ©2018 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.  相似文献   

19.
A 2-year investigation into shoreface morphodynamic behaviour off a high-energy headland-embayment coast in Northern Ireland reveals important process–response mechanisms that cannot be explained solely by existing conceptual models. Fourteen sequential bathymetric surveys, conducted every 1–2 months, show that morphologic (seabed) change is not directly related to oceanographic forcing—extensive nearshore and shoreface accretion and erosion occurs under fair-weather, modal and high-energy conditions. The main factors which seem to cause significant change are long-duration (swell) events coupled with onshore winds, availability of (recently) introduced sediment, surges and elapsed time between storms and the next scheduled survey. Several high-energy events over a short time period (<30 days) did not result in extensive seafloor changes, contrary to expectations. Net seabed change over 2 years shows an average to 0.6 m m?2 of shoreface accretion from the nearshore to 24 m depth. Net erosion was not observed anywhere, including the subaerial beach. Geologic evidence strongly suggests that the source of the significant volume (7.7×105 m3) of sediment introduced into the study area must have been derived from the lower shoreface and/or inner shelf, beyond 24 m depth.  相似文献   

20.
Knowledge and understanding of shore platform erosion and tidal notch development in the tropics and subtropics relies mainly on short‐term studies conducted on recently deposited carbonate rocks, predominantly Holocene and Quaternary reef limestones and aeolianites. This paper presents erosion rates, measured over a 10 year period on notches and platforms developed on the Permian, Ratburi limestone at Phang Nga Bay, Thailand. In so doing it contributes to informing a particular knowledge gap in our understanding of the erosion dynamics of shore platform and tidal notch development in the tropics and subtropics – notch erosion rates on relatively hard, ancient limestones measured directly on the rock surface using a micro‐erosion meter (MEM) over time periods of a decade or more. The average intertidal erosion rate of 0.231 mm/yr is lower than erosion rates measured over 2–3 years on recent, weaker carbonate rocks. Average erosion rates at Phang Nga vary according to location and site and are, in rank order from highest to lowest: Mid‐platform (0.324 mm/yr) > Notch floor (0.289 mm/yr) > Rear notch wall (0.228 mm/yr) > Lower platform (0.140 mm/yr) > Notch roof (0.107 mm/yr) and Supratidal (0.095 mm/yr). The micro‐relief of the eroding rock surfaces in each of these positions exhibits marked differences that are seemingly associated with differences in dominant physical and bio‐erosion processes. The results begin to help inform knowledge of longer term shore platform erosion dynamics, models of marine notch development and have implications for the use of marine notches as indicators of changes in sea level and the duration of past sea levels. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

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