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本文探讨西庄附近海域的波浪状况,分析由于人工挖沙影响,使得登州浅滩的防护作用发生变化,导致近岸波浪作用增强,造成海岸侵蚀.最后讨论设计波要素的确定,为防浪护坡工程提供必要的设计依据. 相似文献
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本文根据1965、1984、1999和2005的海图对比分析, 探讨了洋浦湾深槽、南浅滩以及口外拦门沙的冲淤变化, 得出: 1)1965—1984年之间, 南浅滩呈淤涨之势, 其西南部最大淤涨距离可达640m; 1984—1999年南浅滩出现了侵蚀, 这主要是由于洋浦湾波浪以及沿岸流的作用引起的; 1999—2005年, 靠近口门附近的南浅滩出现淤涨现象, 主要是由于洋浦湾口门附近水动力的影响作用; 但是目前整体基本上处于稳定的阶段。2)洋浦深槽段呈现出不同程度的西边坡淤涨, 东边坡侵蚀后退, 深泓断面缩窄、淤浅及东偏的趋势, 特别是剖面5的变化比较复杂,值得关注。3)口外拦门沙近几十年来呈现出不同的时空冲淤变化, 但是以淤积为主, 1965—2005年拦门沙总的淤积厚度达到1m左右, 但随着泥沙补给的减少, 这种淤积趋势也随着减少。 相似文献
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I~crIOWIn the coastal area, especially at the sandy seashore, wave and nearshore current are the major factors which affect sediment transPOrt and the motyhChdynamics.The numerical models of predicting the beach evolution can be classified intO the medi~term and long-term models according to their space and time scales (De Briend et al., 1993;Watanabe, 1990; Watanabe et al., 1986; Tao, 1996). In the medium-term model the effects ofwave, nearshore current and sediment transport are conside… 相似文献
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莱州湾东部潮上带土地利用对海岸蚀退的影响 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
基于二维浅水方程、波作用守恒方程和对流扩散方程, 建立了波浪-潮流-泥沙耦合数值模型, 分析了最近20 年来莱州湾东部潮上带土地利用对海岸蚀退的影响。结果显示, 潮上带土地利用改变 了风暴潮时的水动力边界条件, 显著增大了岸线附近的水流流速。随着潮上带养殖设施覆盖比例的 提高, 从平面分布看, 岸线附近侵蚀显著加重, 侵蚀条带平行岸线并向下游延伸、向海侧拓展; 从剖 面分布看, 岸线两侧侵蚀深度显著增大、范围明显扩展, 水下岸坡的闭合水深加大, 闭合点外移; 从 动力条件变化看, 岸线附近水流流速最大。分析表明, 最近20 年来大规模的潮上带土地利用是莱州 湾东部海岸蚀退的重要影响因素。 相似文献
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以长江口南支河段为研究区,利用LandsatETM+遥感影像反演的1999年水下地形和该河段2002年实测水深数据,结合长江口来水来沙现状和河段特征,分析了河段的冲淤变化和沙体迁移规律,提出了需采取的治理措施。研究结果表明:(1)从1999到2002年南支河段总体发生冲刷,年平均冲刷量为0.1926亿m3,河道内白茆沙、新浏河沙和新浏河沙包的沙头年平均后退467,374和421m;(2)上、下扁担沙之间由于串沟发育,两者有分离的趋势,沙体5m等深线的变动格局显示两沙体沙尾向下移动导致新桥水道上段水深加深、下段南侧水深变浅;(3)固定白茆沙和上、下扁担沙沙体,对维持南支河段航道的航运、稳定南北槽河势具有重要作用。 相似文献
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Anomalous morphological features within large estuaries may be: (1) recorders of external forces that periodically overwhelm the normal morphodynamic responses to estuarine energy fluxes, and (2) possible predictors of cycles of future coastal change. At the entrance to Willapa Bay, Washington, chronic beach erosion and frequent coastal flooding are related to the historical northward channel migration that destroyed the protective sand spits of Cape Shoalwater. Northward channel migration since the late 1800s conforms to the long-term net sediment transport direction. What requires explanation is periodic southward relocation of the trunk channel by as much as 5 km, and attendant construction of moderately large sand spits on the north side of the bay such as Kindred Island, Tokeland Peninsula, and Cape Shoalwater.Both autocyclic and allocyclic processes may have been responsible for trunk channel realignment and associated spit deposition. Channel recycling may occur when the main channel becomes overextended to the north and the tidal flow is inefficient because of its decreased gradient and increased susceptibility to shoaling by the growth and migration of tidal sand ridges. Under those conditions trunk channel relocation would be facilitated by increased wave heights and water levels of El Niño winter storms. However, co-seismic subsidence is the most likely mechanism for abruptly increasing sand supply and longshore transport that would favor discrete periods of channel relocation and spit deposition. Unless external forcing changes sand supply and predominant sediment transport directions in the future, the relative rise in sea level, frequent winter storms, and local deficit in the sand budget assure that beach erosion will continue at the mouth of this large estuary. 相似文献
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为了研究蓬莱西庄海岸侵蚀原因、揭示泥沙运移规律，利用萤光示踪砂和染色砾石进行侵蚀岸段的泥沙示踪研究．其主要结果如下：１．海滩泥沙运动完全由波浪控制，泥沙运移的速度和方向取决于破波的大小和方向．２．海滩泥沙以群体形式沿岸输移．３．在平直海岸上，泥沙可超越粘土质海蚀平台进入另一砂质海滩。 相似文献
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江苏如东西太阳沙及烂沙洋海域潮流泥沙数值模拟 总被引：10，自引：0，他引：10
基于不规则三角形网格有限差分法并考虑波浪及其破碎作用,建立了平面二维潮流场和泥沙场数学模型.该模型对有望建设成深水码头和深水航道的江苏如东西太阳沙和烂沙洋海域的潮流场和泥沙场进行了细化数值模拟.数值模拟结果表明：（1）本海区潮流基本上是顺深槽流动的往复流,潮流流速大,烂沙洋北水道和西太阳沙附近大潮涨落潮最大流速分别在2 m/s和1 m/s以上;（2）本海区的潮平均水体含沙量在0.5 kg/m^3以下,落潮含沙量大于涨潮含沙量;（3）小浪对水体含沙量影响很小,大浪作用下水体含沙量明显增加. 相似文献
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河口、海岸是陆海相互作用及人类活动最频繁的地区之一,了解和把握海岸地貌的变迁及发育模式对于海岸资源的开发和保护至关重要。模型是对客观事物的概括和抽象,本文对海岸滩地和水下三角洲地形演变的研究总结了4种方法,重点讨论了模型的构建,并根据作者的研究实例给出了模型的具体应用。在剖面模型的应用中通过不同年代剖面的对比分析可了解海岸地貌的动态变化,平面模型则通过等深线的退缩、扩张及形态变化来研究岸滩的动态冲淤及海岸地形的宏观变化,而冲淤速率分布平面图是分析大范围海域冲淤趋势和局部变化的有效手段。测点统计模型是一种静态分析方法,用来建立测量点的高程和坡度与岸滩冲淤的关系。 相似文献
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The estuary and coast is an area where the land and the sea interact and a place in which human beings frequently move about so that understanding and controlling the change and development modes of the coastal landform plays a vital part in exploiting and protecting coastal resources. A model is the generalization and abstraction of objective things. This paper summarizes four methods for the landform development of the tidal shore and underwater delta, mainly discusses the model‘s structural elements, and presents their specific application on the basis of the authors‘ case study. With the application of the profile model, the dynamic change of coastal landform can be clearly seen by contrasting the different profiles of different years. Through the shrinking, expanding and transformation of the isobath, plane model is used to study the macro-change of the shoal and the coastal landform. Speed model is an efficient means to analyze the trend of erosion and deposition and the local change in a great area of the sea. Statistical survey model is a static analysis, which can be used to establish the relationship between the erosion and deposition of the shoal and the altitude and slope of survey spot. 相似文献
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海南岛西南海底沙波活动及底床冲淤变化 总被引：17，自引：0，他引：17
为了研究沙波迁移对底床稳定性的影响,通过对比分析2004—2006年连续3年的多波束海底地貌扫描数据,得出研究区域海底沙波的波长为5.8~91.8 m,波高0.1~4.3 m,陡峭度0.013~0.12,对称指数0.32~6.52。沙波的移动速率最大48.8 m/a,移动方向在研究区域西部为SE向,中部呈往复迁移,东部为NW向;沙波不同部位的迁移速率不同,一般的沙波尾翼迁移速率较大;同一组沙波存在反向扭转迁移的现象,反向扭转迁移的轴线位于研究区域沙脊的脊线附近,这种反向迁移不仅与底层流作用有关,还与海底地形关系密切;西部海底底床处于侵蚀状态,局部最大侵蚀量可达1.3 m,东部处于堆积状态,最大堆积量达2.8 m。 相似文献
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This study investigates how the refraction of water waves is affected by the higher-order bottom effect terms proportional to the square of bottom slope and to the bottom curvature in the extended mild-slope equations. Numerical analyses are performed on two cases of waves propagating over a circular shoal and over a circular hollow. Numerical results are analyzed using the eikonal equation derived from the wave equations and the wave ray tracing technique. It is found that the higher-order bottom effect terms change the wavelength and, in turn, change the refraction of waves over a variable depth. In the case of waves over a circular shoal, the higher-order bottom effects increase the wavelength along the rim of shoal more than near the center of shoal, and intensify the degree of wave refraction. However, the discontinuity of higher-order bottom effects along the rim of shoal disperses the foci of wave rays. As a result, the amplification of wave energy behind the shoal is reduced. Conversely, in the case of waves over a circular hollow, the higher-order bottom effects decrease the wavelength near the center of the hollow in comparison with the case of neglecting higher-order bottom effects. Consequently, the degree of wave refraction is decreased, and the spreading of wave energy behind the hollow is reduced. 相似文献
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海滩是砂质海岸重要的沉积地貌单元,其沉积特征和稳定性对于海滩的开发利用与保护具有重要意义。本文根据海口湾西海岸海滩表层沉积物粒度数据,阐述了该区域海滩沉积物的时空分布规律,并通过对比滩面高程数据和水下地形数据分析了该区域的岸滩稳定性。结果表明：海口湾西海岸海滩处于滩面微蚀的轻度不稳定态,其岸外浅滩处于边坡侵蚀的轻度不稳定态。另外,根据波浪作用和泥沙来源进一步探讨了海口湾西海岸海滩沉积物动力机制及其海滩侵蚀的原因。 相似文献
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The loss of beach sand from berm and dune due to high waves and surge is a universal phenomenon associated with sporadic storm activities. To protect the development in a coastal hazard zone, hard structures or coastal setback have been established in many countries around the world. In this paper, the requirement of a storm beach buffer, being a lesser extent landward comparing with the coastal setback to ensure the safety of infrastructures, is numerically assessed using the SBEACH model for three categories of wave conditions in terms of storm return period, median sand grain size, berm width, and design water level. Two of the key outputs from the numerical calculations, berm retreat and bar formation offshore, are then analysed, as well as beach profile change. After having performed a series of numerical studies on selected large wave tank (LWT) test results with monochromatic waves using SBEACH, we may conclude that: (1) Berm erosion increases and submerged bar develops further offshore as the storm return period increases for beach with a specific sand grain size, or as the sand grain reduces on a beach under the action of identical wave condition; (2) Higher storm waves yield a large bar to form quicker and subsequently cause wave breaking on the bar crest, which can reduce the wave energy and limit the extent of the eroding berm; (3) A larger buffer width is required for a beach comprising small sand grain, in order to effectively absorb storm wave energy; and (4) Empirical relationships can be tentatively proposed to estimate the storm beach buffer width, from the input of wave conditions and sediment grain size. These results would benefit a beach nourishment project for shore protection or design of a recreational beach. 相似文献
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我国硬式护岸、渔港工程和人工岛等3类典型海岸工程对相邻海滩有显著影响.本研究以泉州青山湾护岸、泉州崇武中心渔港、海口南海明珠人工岛等建设前后海滩变化为例,开展对海滩岸线形态及部分典型剖面形态的对比分析.结果表明,临海硬式护岸岸前海滩发生明显下蚀,护岸下游海滩岸线侵蚀后退,发育侵蚀热点,剖面伴有下蚀;渔港工程拦沙堤附近岸线局部淤涨,下游海滩岸线大范围侵蚀后退,出现侵蚀热点,侵蚀热点处剖面明显下蚀;人工岛后波影区内海滩淤积,形成沙岬或连岛沙坝突出体,突出体两侧岸线均发生不同程度侵蚀后退.通过分析典型工程案例,探讨了3类海岸工程对相邻海滩的影响方式、影响尺度和原因,对比分析不同类型海岸工程对相邻海滩的负面影响,可为海岸工程建设管理和海滩保护提供参考. 相似文献
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近岸波、流作用下结构物附近海岸演变的数值模拟 总被引：5，自引：0，他引：5
针对与砂质海岸在波浪作用下的演变有关的波浪、近岸流及输沙问题进行了系统的研究,并对结构物附近海岸演变进行了数值模拟。考虑了波浪折射-绕射及波浪破碎的综合作用,在近岸流场的模拟中用沿水深积分形成的K方程模型确定涡粘系数。计算岸滩地形变化时,综合波浪、近岸流作用的底沙和悬沙输沙率,并考虑波浪对泥沙作用的影响。模型对防波堤和近岸沉船附近地形变化进行了模拟,效果良好。 相似文献
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An experimental investigation of coastal erosion generated by the action of regular and irregular waves was carried out in laboratory channels. Natural beach sand, with medium diameter of 0.35 mm and specific gravity of 2.63, was used in this study. A 1:5 initial beach slope was selected for the model tests. Different wave groups were generated over the initially flat beach, and the characteristics of coastal erosion geometry such as erosion lengths, erosion depths, location of maximum erosion point, and total erosion areas were measured. The most important parameters governing coastal erosion were evaluated by using earlier investigations and experimental results. These parameters were expressed as a dimensionless group by using π theory. The empirical relationships between the geometric characteristics of coastal erosion and the dimensionless group are proposed through regression analysis for pure regular waves, pure irregular waves, and regular-irregular waves. The parameters, which were used to define geometric characteristics of coastal erosion, were evaluated and some ratios of these parameters gave a constant value. 相似文献