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1.
A field experiment designed to investigate the influence of wave breaking on suspended-sediment transport was conducted at Duck, NC, from 6 to 9 September 1985. Arrays of optical backscatter sensors, electromagnetic current meters and pressure sensors were deployed at five positions on a shore-normal transect that spanned the surf zone. At each position measurements were made of cross-shore and longshore velocity, sea-surface fluctuations, and suspended sediment at five levels above the bed. Experimental data runs were conducted when incident swell waves ( Hs = 0.5m, T= 10–12s) broke (primarily plunging) within the experimental transect. This paper describes the spatial characteristics of the plunge-to-bore tranformation region and describes (1) the cross-shore variability of sediment resuspension, including the mean concentrations and mean suspended load; (2) the net longshore and cross-shore flux across the surf zone; (3) mean suspended-sediment profiles as a function of wave type, e.g. plunging, spilling and bore, and unbroken at four positions across the surf zone; and (4) discusses the relative contribution of each wave type to the net longshore and cross-shore sediment flux.  相似文献   

2.
Diurnal sea breeze effects on inner-shelf cross-shore exchange   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
Cross-shore exchange by strong (cross-shore wind stress, τsx>0.05 Pa) diurnal (7–25 h) sea breeze events are investigated using two years of continuous wind, wave, and ocean velocity profiles in 13 m water depth on the inner-shelf in Marina, Monterey bay, California. The diurnal surface wind stress, waves, and currents have spectral peaks at 1, 2, and 3 cpd and the diurnal variability represents about 50% of the total variability. During sea breeze relaxation (−0.05<τsx<0.05 Pa), a background wave-driven inner-shelf Eulerian undertow profile exists, which is equal and opposite to the Lagrangian Stokes drift profile, resulting in a net zero Lagrangian transport at depth. In the presence of a sea breeze (τsx>0.05 Pa), a uniform offshore profile develops that is different from the background undertow profile allowing cross-shore Lagrangian transport to develop, while including Lagrangian Stokes drift. The diurnal cross-shore current response is similar to subtidal (>25 h) cross-shore current response, as found by Fewings et al. (2008). The seasonality of waves and winds modify the diurnal sea breeze impact. It is suggested that material is not transported cross-shore except during sea breeze events owing to near zero transport during relaxation periods. During sea breeze events, cross-shore exchange of material appears to occur onshore near the surface and offshore near the sea bed. Since sea breeze events last for a few hours, the long-term cross-shore transport is incremental each day.  相似文献   

3.
In consideration of the characteristics of spectral average of the Rossby wave trains and the adoption of a climatic mean stream field as the basic stream field, an approximate analytical formula for the period of atmospheric low-frequency oscillation (LFO) and the group velocity is deduced from a barotropic and non-divergent linearized vorticity equation. All the action centers of atmosphere are found to be the oscillators of low frequency. The LFO propagates southward across the streamlines in the wind field with a southward component or propagates northward across the streamlines in the wind field with northward component instead of along a great circle. The switch of the propagation direction takes place near the top of ridge or the bottom of trough. The angle between the wave rays and the zonal direction can be determined. Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No. 49175241).  相似文献   

4.
There is a paucity of field data to describe the transition in nearshore circulation between alongshore, meandering and rip current systems. A combination of in‐situ current meters and surf zone drifters are used to characterize the nearshore circulation over a transverse bar and rip morphology at Pensacola Beach, Florida in the presence of relatively low energy oblique waves. Current speeds vary in response to the relative wave height ratio (Hs/h), which defines the degree and extent of breaking over the shoal. In the absence of wave breaking the nearshore circulation was dominated by an alongshore current driven by the oblique waves. As waves begin to break across the shoal (0.2<Hs/ h<0.5) the nearshore circulation is characterized by a meandering alongshore current. As conditions became more dissipative (Hs/h>0.5), the meandering current is replaced by an unsteady rip circulation that moves offshore between the shoals before turning alongshore in the direction of wave advance outside the surf zone. The increase in wave dissipation is associated with an increase in very low frequency (VLF) variations in the current speed across the shoal and in the rip channel that caused the circulation to oscillate between an offshore and an alongshore flow. The unsteady nature of the nearshore circulation is responsible for 55% of all surf zone exits under these more dissipative conditions. In contrast, only 29% of the drifters released from the shoal exited the surf zone and bypassed the adjacent shoal with the alongshore‐meandering current. While the currents had a low velocity (maximum of ~0.4 m s‐1) and would not pose a significant hazard to the average swimmer, the results of this study suggest that the transverse bar and rip morphology is sufficient to create an alongshore variation in wave dissipation that forces alongshore meandering and low‐energy rip circulation systems under oblique wave forcing. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

5.
The formation of an inner nearshore bar was observed during a high‐energy event at the sandy beach of Vejers, Denmark. The bar accreted in situ during surf zone conditions and the growth of the bar was associated with the development of a trough landward of the bar. Measurements of hydrodynamics and sediment fluxes were obtained from electromagnetic current meters and optical backscatter sensors. These process measurements showed that a divergence in sediment transport occurred at the location of the developing trough, and observed gradients in cross‐shore net sediment flux were consistent with the morphological development. The main cause for the flux gradients were cross‐shore gradients in offshore‐directed mean current (undertow) speed which depended upon local relative wave height and local bed slope. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

6.
A new field-based parameterisation (‘shape function’) describing the distribution of cross-shore suspended sediment transport across a beach profile is presented. Time-averaged and depth-integrated suspended sediment fluxes were measured over 39 tides at Sennen Cove, Cornwall, UK, for a range of wave conditions (offshore significant wave heights 0.1–2.5 m). The suspended sediment flux data were heuristically separated into four transport components: (1) mean flux in the surf/shoaling zone; (2) oscillatory flux in the surf/shoaling zone; (3) onshore flux in the swash/inner surf zone and (4) offshore flux in the swash/inner surf zone. Each of these transport components was related to the local water depth (h) normalised by the breakpoint depth (hb) and the four resulting suspended transport shape functions were combined to form a total suspended load shape function. Each shape function component is scaled independently by the wave energy level through hb. The total suspended load shape function predicts onshore sediment transport under low-energy conditions, with peaks at the breakpoint and in the swash zone, in agreement with the field observations. Under high-energy conditions the total suspended load shape function predicts onshore transport in the shoaling zone, offshore transport in the surf zone and onshore transport in the inner swash zone.  相似文献   

7.
Magilligan Point is a recurved cuspate foreland at the mouth of Lough Foyle. Two wave regimes intersect in the estuary mouth and the manner of their interplay controls shoreline changes. Ocean swell waves from the N and NE are refracted around the recurve, losing both height and energy longshore. Width of the surf zone decreases and waves tend to steepen, although both these changes and wave refraction owe something to nearshore geometry. Angle of wave approach becomes more acute and a westerly flowing longshore current moves sand S and SW along the beach. Estuary waves from the S and SW are wind-driven with high-frequencies and steepnesses. They generate a northeasterly current which returns material N, but dies out as the waves become obliterated by nearshore attenuation and breaking of swell. It is possible to identify a time-averaged null-point where shoreline wave power is balanced, although this tends to shift over short periods causing rapid morphological changes. The existence of two independent, but counteractive cells ensures the long-term maintenance of the foreland, without requiring major or continuous supplies of fresh sediment.  相似文献   

8.
南海东北部首次成功实施海陆联合深地震探测,填补了海陆过渡带深地震探测的空白. 利用该次海陆联测地震数据,通过数据处理、震相分析、射线追踪、走时模拟等方法,获得了滨海断裂带附近的纵波地壳速度结构,探明了海陆联测剖面中滨海断裂带可能位置. 地壳速度结构为陆壳结构,地壳厚度由陆地向海区逐步变薄;在上地壳下部普遍存在一层速度为5.5～5.9km·s-1、厚度为2.5～4.0km的低速层,并向海区方向减薄,该区未发现明显的高速层. 滨海断裂带为一纵向低速带,位于南澳台东南35km处,对应于重、磁异常带,断裂带断至莫霍面,是华南陆区正常型陆壳与海区减薄型陆壳的分界地壳断裂.  相似文献   

9.
Measurements of near-bed shear stress were undertaken in the shallow subtidal zone at Durras Beach, NSW, Australia using a sideways-looking acoustic velocity meter installed within the wave boundary layer. The wave climate was swell-dominated and wave conditions comprised shoaling and breaking waves as well as surf bores. The sediment at the field site was medium-grained sand, and observations of bedform geometry were conducted using a pencilbeam-sonar system. Using frequency-filtering techniques, the measured stresses were partitioned into terms representing turbulent (Reynolds) stress, stresses due to gravity and infragravity-scale oscillatory motions, and wave-turbulence-mean current cross-terms. Gravity wave-orbital scale motions contributed the largest fraction of the stresses, comprising 24% on average, followed by long-wave advection of vertical orbital motion (16%). The presence of wave orbital-scale motions near or at the water/sediment interface was likely due to the porous nature of the seabed, facilitating interfacial flow. Shear stresses did not scale with bed roughness but exhibited a linear relationship with the relative wave height. This indicates that for the experimental conditions, surf zone processes overwhelmed bed roughness effects on shear stress and friction. Calculations of the wave friction factor, fw, showed that in a natural surf zone, this was a factor 3–4 larger than conventional predictions. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

10.
Mud deposits near sandy beaches, found throughout the world, are of scientific and societal interest as they form important natural sea defenses by efficiently damping storm waves. A multi-national field experiment to study these phenomena was performed offshore Cassino beach in southern Brazil starting in 2004. This experiment aimed to investigate the formation of an offshore mud deposit, to characterize wave attenuation over potentially mobile muddy bottoms, and to evaluate the performance of models for wave transformation over heterogeneous beds through the measurement of water waves, near-bottom currents, bathymetry, and changes in bottom sediment characteristics. The main instrumentation was a set of wave sensors deployed in a transect from the shoreline across sandy and muddy deposits offshore to a depth of 25 m. Additional sensors, including current meters and optical backscatter sensors, were concentrated at stations in the middle of the mud deposit and in the surf zone to document aspects of the wave boundary layer and lutocline dynamics. This fieldwork also involved the geological and geotechnical characterization of the mud deposit using seismic equipment, echo-sounders, cores, surficial sampling and an in-situ density meter. These sediment samples were subsequently analyzed for density, grain size distribution, mineralogy, rheology and sedimentary structures. In addition, video and radar monitoring equipment were installed to measure the long-term aspects of surf zone damping by fluid mud and any associated morphodynamic responses. This paper provides a summary of environmental conditions monitored during the experiment and describes the major findings of the various investigations. Although data collection was more difficult than anticipated and dramatic wave attenuation involving the onshore transport of fluid mud into the surf zone region was not observed during the instrumented interval, the new methodologies developed and comprehensive observations obtained during this effort are being used to improve our understanding of shoaling wave dynamics and sediment transport in the coastal zone in regions with significant cohesive sediment deposits.  相似文献   

11.
This paper examines the processes responsible for the morphodynamics of an intertidal swash bar at Skallingen, Denmark, during seven successive storms (one with a large surge of +3·02 m DNN). During this period a subtidal bar migrated landward onto the foreshore and continued to migrate across the intertidal zone as a swash bar. The onshore migration of the inner subtidal bar resulted from the erosion of sediment from the upper foreshore and dune ramp during the large storm surge that was transported seaward, causing the landward displacement of the bar through accretion on the landward slope. The magnitude and direction of suspended sediment transport within the intertidal zone, and more specifically at and close to the crest of the swash bar, varied with the ratio of both the significant (Hs) and average (Havg) wave heights to the water depth (hcr) at the swash bar crest (the local depth minimum). The transition between onshore and offshore suspended sediment transport was associated with the average wave of the incident distribution breaking on the swash bar crest (Havgh ≈ 0·33). While the onshore‐directed transport was largest at infragravity frequencies, sediment resuspension was best explained by the skewed accelerations under the surf bores. Offshore transport was dominated by the cross‐shore mean currents (undertow) that developed when the significant wave of the distribution broke on the swash bar crest (Hsh ≈ 0·33) and weakened as the average wave of the distribution started to break at the crest (Havgh ≈ 0·33) and the surf zone approached saturation. In contrast to subtidal bars, the swash bar at Skallingen exhibited a divergent behaviour with respect to the cross‐shore position of the breaker zone, migrating onshore when the average wave broke seaward of the crest and migrating offshore when the average wave broke landward of the crest. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

12.
Digital elevation models and topographic pro?les of a beach with intertidal bar and trough (ridge‐and‐runnel) morphology in Merlimont, northern France, were analysed in order to assess patterns of cross‐shore and longshore intertidal bar mobility. The beach exhibited a pronounced dual bar–trough system that showed cross‐shore stationarity. The bars and troughs were, however, characterized by signi?cant longshore advection of sand under the in?uence of suspension by waves and transport by strong tide‐ and wind‐driven longshore currents. Pro?le changes were due in part to the longshore migration of medium‐sized bedforms. The potential for cross‐shore bar migration appears to be mitigated by the large size of the two bars relative to incident wave energy, which is modulated by high vertical tidal excursion rates on this beach due to the large tidal range (mean spring tidal range = 8·3 m). Cross‐shore bar migration is also probably hindered by the well‐entrenched troughs which are maintained by channelled high‐energy intertidal ?ows generated by swash bores and by tidal discharge and drainage. The longshore migration of intertidal bars affecting Merlimont beach is embedded in a regional coastal sand transport pathway involving tidal and wind‐forced northward residual ?ows affecting the rectilinear northern French coast in the eastern English Channel. Copyright © 2004 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

13.
We report on a 6‐year nearshore bathymetric dataset from the Danube Delta (Romanian Black Sea coast) that comprises 16 km of erosive, stable and accumulative low‐lying micro‐tidal beaches northward of Sf. Gheorghe arm mouth. Two to three two‐dimensional longshore sandbars exhibit a net multi‐annual cyclic (2.8–5.5 years) offshore migration (20–50 m yr?1) in a similar way to other coasts worldwide. Bar morphology and behavior on the sediment‐rich accretionary (dissipative) sector differ substantially from that on the erosive (intermediate) sector. Shoreface slope is the most important factor controlling sandbar number and behavior. It determines different wave‐breaking patterns in the surf zone, translated into different offshore sediment transport and bar zone widths along the study site. Additionally, sediment availability, as a result of the distance from the arm mouth and of the long‐term evolution of the coast, controls the sandbar volume variability. These are all ultimately reflected in the variations of sandbar migration rates and cycle periods. A non‐dimensional morpho‐sedimentary parameter is finally presented, which expresses the bar system change potential as offshore sediment transport potential across the bar zone. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

14.
Long-term, net offshore bar migration is a common occurrence on many multiple-barred beaches. The first stage of the process involves the generation of a longshore bar close to the shoreline that oscillates about a mean position for some time, followed by a stage of net offshore migration across the upper shoreface, and finally a stage of decaying bar form through loss of sediment volume at the outer boundary of the upper shoreface. The phenomenon has been previously documented in the Netherlands, the USA, the Canadian Great Lakes, and in New Zealand, but our present understanding of the morphodynamic processes and sediment transport pathways involved in bar decay is limited. In this paper, long-term, net offshore bar migration is investigated at Vejers Beach, located on the North Sea coast of Denmark where offshore bar migration rates are of the order of 45–55 m a−1. A wave height transformation model confirmed that the decay of the outer bar results in increased wave heights and undertow speeds at the more landward bar potentially causing this bar to speed up its offshore migration. The causes for outer bar decay were investigated through field measurements of sediment transport at the decaying bar and at a position further seaward on the lower shoreface. The measurements showed that a cross-shore transport convergence exists between the bar and the lower shoreface and that the loss of sediment involved in bar decay is associated with a longshore directed transport by non-surf zone processes. At Vejers, and possibly elsewhere, the net offshore migration of bars and the subsequent loss of sand during bar decay is an important part of the beach and shoreface sediment budget.  相似文献   

15.
风生边界急流稳定性的渐近理论   总被引：3，自引：1，他引：3       下载免费PDF全文
观测表明，当冬季盛吹北风时，在南中国海西边界附近将形成一支向南的急流，在一定条件下这支急流可弯曲成波动甚至形成涡旋.本文应用等值浅水模式，采用截断模方法，分析了急流的稳定性，并给出急流上不稳定波出现的条件.分析表明只有当向南的风生急流很强很窄时，由变性的Kelvin波和风应力强迫出的地形Rossby波在长波波段耦合而出现不稳定，不稳定波在波长约200 km时向北传播的相速度约为02 m·s-1，波振幅增长到e倍所需的时间约15天.分析进一步表明，夏季向北的风生流在海洋的西边界附近是稳定的.这些结果在一定程度上解释了观测结果.  相似文献   

16.
Waves with a large incidence angle in deep water can drive a morphodynamic instability on a sandy coast whereby shoreline sand waves, cuspate forelands, and spits can emerge. This instability is related to bathymetric perturbations extending offshore in the shoaling zone. Here, we explore a different mechanism where the large incidence angle is supposed to occur at breaking and the bathymetric perturbations occur only in the surf zone. For wave incidence angles at breaking above ≈?45°, the one-line approximation of coastal dynamics predicts an unstable shoreline. This instability (EHAWI) is scale-free and the growth rate increases without bound for decreasing wavelength. Here we use a 2DH morphodynamic model resolving surf zone instabilities to investigate whether EHAWI could approximate a real instability in nature with a characteristic length scale. Assuming very idealized conditions on the bathymetric profile and sediment transport, we find a 2DH instability mode consisting of shore-oblique up-current bars coupled to a meandering of the longshore current. This mode grows for high-angle waves, above about 30° (offshore) and the maximum growth rate occurs for the angle maximizing the angle at breaking, about 70° (offshore). The dominant wavelength is of the order of the surf zone width. Interestingly, for long sand waves, the growth rate never becomes negative and it matches very well the anti-diffusive behavior of EHAWI. This distinguishes the present instability mode from other modes found in previous studies for other bathymetric and sediment transport conditions. Thus, we conclude that EHAWI approximates a real morphodynamic instability only for quite particular conditions. In such case, a characteristic length scale of the instability emerges thanks to surf zone processes that damp short wavelengths.  相似文献   

17.
The Río de la Plata waters form a low salinity tongue that affects the circulation, stratification and the distributions of nutrients and biological species over a wide extent of the adjacent continental shelf. The plume of coastal waters presents a seasonal meridional displacement reaching lower latitudes (28°S) during austral winter and 32°S during summer. Historical data suggests that the wind causes the alongshore shift, with southwesterly (SW) winds forcing the plume to lower latitudes in winter while summer dominant northeasterly (NE) winds force its southward retreat. To establish the connection between wind and outflow variations on the distribution of the coastal waters, we conducted two quasi-synoptic surveys in the region of Plata influence on the continental shelf and slope of southeastern South America, between Mar del Plata, Argentina and the northern coast of Santa Catarina, Brazil. We observed that: (A) SW winds dominating in winter force the northward spreading of the plume to low latitudes even during low river discharge periods; (B) NE winds displace the plume southward and spread the low salinity waters offshore over the entire width of the continental shelf east of the Plata estuary. The southward retreat of the plume in summer leads to a volume decrease of low salinity waters over the shelf. This volume is compensated by an increase of Tropical waters, which dominate the northern shelf. The subsurface transition between Subantarctic and Subtropical Shelf Waters, the Subtropical Shelf Front, and the subsurface water mass distribution, however, present minor seasonal variations. Along shore winds also influence the dynamics and water mass variations along the continental shelf area. In areas under the influence of river discharge, Subtropical Shelf Waters are kept away from the coastal region. When low salinity waters retreat southward, NE winds induce a coastal upwelling system near Santa Marta Cape. In summer, solar radiation promotes the establishment of a strong thermocline that increases buoyancy and further enhances the offshore displacement of low salinity waters under the action of NE winds.  相似文献   

18.
Field measurements of wave ripples and megaripples were made with a Sand Ripple Profiler in the surf and shoaling zones of a sandy macrotidal dissipative beach at Perranporth, UK in depths 1–6 m and significant wave heights up to 2.2 m. A frequency domain partitioning approach allowed quantification of height (η), length (λ) and migration rate of ripples and megaripples. Wave ripples with heights up to 2 cm and wavelengths ～20 cm developed in low orbital velocity conditions (u m?<?0.65 m/s) with mobility number ψ?<?25. Wave ripple heights decreased with increasing orbital velocity and were flattened when mean currents were >0.1 m/s. Wave ripples were superimposed on top of megaripples (η?=?10 cm, λ?=?1 m) and contributed up to 35 % of the total bed roughness. Large megaripples with heights up to 30 cm and lengths 1–1.8 m developed when the orbital velocity was 0.5–0.8 m/s, corresponding to mobility numbers 25–50. Megaripple heights and wavelengths increased with orbital velocity but reduced when mean current strengths were >0.15 m/s. Wave ripple and megaripple migrations were generally onshore directed in the shoaling and surf zones. Onshore ripple migration rates increased with onshore-directed (+ve) incident wave skewness. The onshore migration rate reduced as offshore-directed mean flows (undertow) increased in strength and reached zero when the offshore-directed mean flow was >0.15 m/s. The migration pattern was therefore linked to cross-shore position relative to the surf zone, controlled by competition between onshore-directed velocity skewness and offshore-directed mean flow.  相似文献   

19.
The dynamical responses of a shoreline over long-term (years or decades) is a non-linear and time-dependent random process. It is affected by both longshore and cross-shore sediment transports. The former tends to cause cumulative changes in the mean shoreline position while the latter usually only leads to beach profile fluctuations relative to the moving mean beach profile. Due to the time-dependency of the process the life-cycle approach is ideally suited to formulate the probability distribution of extreme shoreline erosion. A model based on such approach and using standard Monte Carlo simulation techniques has been reported by Dong and Chen (1999). In this paper a simplified procedure is developed by introducing the assumption that the longshore and cross-shore processes are statistically independent. This then allows the probability distribution of the extreme erosion to be calculated in terms of the marginal probability distributions of the maximum recessions due to purely longshore and purely cross-shore transport. This method was applied to two idealised shoreline configurations and its usefulness for engineering applications is evaluated by comparison with the full Monte Carlo method.  相似文献   

20.
The knowledge of offshore and coastal wave climate evolution towards the end of the twenty-first century is particularly important for human activities in a region such as the Bay of Biscay and the French Atlantic coast. Using dynamical downscaling, a high spatial resolution dataset of wave conditions in the Bay of Biscay is built for three future greenhouse gases emission scenarios. Projected wave heights, periods and directions are analysed at regional scale and more thoroughly at two buoys positions, offshore and along the coast. A general decrease of wave heights is identified (up to ?20?cm during summer within the Bay off Biscay), as well as a clockwise shift of summer waves and winter swell coming from direction. The relation between those changes and wind changes is investigated and highlights a complex association of processes at several spatial scales. For instance, the intensification and the northeastward shift of strong wind core in the North Atlantic Ocean explain the clockwise shift of winter swell directions. During summer, the decrease of the westerly winds in the Bay of Biscay explains the clockwise shift and the wave height decrease of wind sea and intermediate waves. Finally, the analysis reveals that the offshore changes in the wave height and the wave period as well as the clockwise shift in the wave direction continue toward the coast. This wave height decrease result is consistent with other regional projections and would impact the coastal dynamics by reducing the longshore sediment flux.  相似文献   

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