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1.
Proxies, such as changes in beach profiles and shoreline positions, are commonly used in management and research for estimating changes in subaerial beach volume; however, the accuracy of these proxies across increasing time scales and complex morphologies is unclear. Volume changes associated with along‐beach morphologic variability may not be captured well by changes in profiles, while volume changes associated with across‐beach morphologic variability may not be captured well by measuring shoreline change. This study assesses the impacts of morphologic variations, associated with beach cusps and nourishment material, on volume change estimates from profiles and shoreline change at 0.5 to 3.5 year time periods. Results indicate that profiles spaced ≥ 150 m apart and the shoreline‐change proxy will likely estimate volume change inaccurately over periods ≤ 1 year at beaches that are consistently eroding or accreting and contain cusps. However, over longer time periods (1–3.5 years), estimates of volume change from both proxies improved at those types of beaches. Volume changes at the edges of nourishment areas are not captured well by profiles. When the nourishment material is graded to a ramped morphology, which minimizes across‐beach morphologic variability, the shoreline‐change proxy does accurately estimate volume changes. Both proxies estimate volume changes inaccurately at beaches where volume changes oscillate between erosion and accretion on both short and long time scales because the magnitude of small‐scale changes in volume from the formation and erosion of morphologic features, such as cusps and berms, will always be similar to the longer‐term net volume change. This study suggests that decadal records of shoreline change, which are commonly developed using aerial photography, can be used to help identify the best proxy for estimating volume change; however, recent anthropogenic modifications that impact patterns of beach sedimentation, including nourishment, terminal groins, and inlet‐channel dredging, makes decadal records less useful. Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

2.
Many estuaries contain sandy beaches that provide habitats and offer protective buffers for wetlands and infrastructure, alongside cultural and recreational resources. Research underpinning coastal management tends to focus on tide- and swell-dominated sandy beaches, but little attention is given to beaches in estuaries and bays (BEBs) that exist along a continuum of wind/swell wave, tide and riverine influence. BEBs are subject to less wave energy than open coast locations because of the generally narrow window of directions for which ocean waves can propagate through the entrance. However, when storm wave direction coincides with the orientation of the estuary or bay entrance, waves can penetrate several kilometres inside. Here we focus on eight BEBs in two major bays/estuaries in Sydney, Australia and present observations from before and after a major extratropical storm with waves from an atypical direction in June 2016. We quantify magnitudes of beach erosion and recovery rates for 3 years post-storm. We show that when high-energy storm waves penetrate bays and estuaries, BEBs can undergo up to 100% of subaerial beach erosion. Three years after the storm, only 5 of the 29 (17%) eroded subaerial beach profiles had recovered to their pre-storm volume. This is likely due to the lack of low-frequency, beach-building waves at BEBs under modal weather conditions in between storms, in contrast to open coast beaches. We also show that the recovery of BEBs may be limited by the absence of adjacent sediment reservoirs due to the dominance of tidal processes mid-channel. Our study highlights the unique behaviour of BEBs relative to beaches on the open coast, and that shifting wave direction needs to be considered in long-term beach resilience under climate change. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

3.
An 8‐year time series of weekly shoreline data collected at the Gold Coast, Australia, is used to examine the temporal evolution of a beach, focusing on the frequency response of the shoreline to time‐varying wave height and period. Intriguingly, during 2005 the movement of the shoreline at this site changed from a seasonally‐dominated mode (annual cycle) to a storm‐dominated (~monthly) mode. This unexpected observation provides the opportunity to explore the drivers of the observed shoreline response. Utilizing the calibration of an equilibrium shoreline model to explore the time‐scales of underlying beach behavior, the best‐fit frequency response (days?1) is shown to be an order of magnitude higher post‐2004, suggesting that a relatively subtle change in wave forcing can drive a significant change in shoreline response. Analysis of available wave data reveals a statistically significant change in the seasonality of storms, from predominantly occurring at the start of the year pre‐2005 to being relatively consistent throughout the year after this time. The observed change from one mode of shoreline variability to another suggests that beaches can adapt relatively quickly to subtle changes in the intra‐annual distribution of wave energy. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

4.
Profiles were analysed in conjunction with wave climate to assess offshore island influences on an embayed beach at Tenby, Wales. Time series analyses showed medium and short‐term beach oscillation, with volume exchanges between zones lagging by up to six months. Dominant southerly and southwesterly waves caused sub and low tidal longshore drift from south towards north, while less frequent southeasterly waves generated counter drift. Modelled inshore breaking waves had less energy than offshore ones and the former behaved differently between the low and high tidal zones (spring tidal range of 7 · 5 m). Variations in wave direction from directly behind the islands resulted in reduced wave heights and statistical analyses agreed with wave model results. These were correlated to morphological change and it was concluded that offshore islands change wave dynamics and modify the morphology of embayed beaches in their lee. Consequently, this work provides significant new insights into offshore island influences, shoreline behaviour and especially tidal setting Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

5.
Eleven-year long time series of monthly beach profile surveys and hourly incident wave conditions are analyzed for a macrotidal Low Tide Terrace beach. The lower intertidal zone of the beach has a pluriannual cycle, whereas the upper beach profile has a predominantly seasonal cycle. An equilibrium model is applied to study the variation of the contour elevation positions in the intertidal zone as a function of the wave energy, wave power, and water level. When forcing the model with wave energy, the predictive ability of the equilibrium model is around 60% in the upper intertidal zone but decreases to 40% in the lower intertidal zone. Using wave power increases the predictive ability up to 70% in both the upper and lower intertidal zones. However, changes around the inflection point are not well predicted. The equilibrium model is then extended to take into account the effects of the tide level. The initial results do not show an increase in the predictive capacity of the model, but do allow the model free parameters to represent more accurately the values expected in a macrotidal environment. This allows comparing the empirical model calibration in different tidal environment. The interpretation of the model free parameter variation across the intertidal zone highlights the behavior of the different zones along the intertidal beach profile. This contributes to a global interpretation of the four model parameters for beaches with different tidal ranges, and therefore to a global model applicable at a wide variety sites.  相似文献   

6.
This paper addresses a series of geomorphic questions relating to large‐scale (> 1 km), long‐term (100 – 1,000 years) coastal planshape evolution. Previous research on soft‐cliff coasts has recognised the role of protective fronting beach volumes on reducing rates of cliff toe retreat. However, it is the maintenance of this critical threshold that ultimately determines two contrasting modes of shoreline behaviour: Mode A, in which there is little beach sediment and shoreline evolution is controlled by material strength; and, Mode B, when ample beach sediment means that shoreline evolution is controlled by longshore sediment transport. Here we use a numerical model (SCAPE) to investigate temporal and spatial changes in beach volume on a broader range of feedbacks than considered in previous models. The transition between Mode A and Mode B coasts is defined by relative sediment inputs to outputs and used to explore how these contrasting modes control the evolution of an initial linear frontage exhibiting longshore changes in cliff lithology (material resistance and the proportion of beach grade material in the eroded bedrock). Under Mode A, relative changes in material resistance result in long term heterogeneous rates of retreat, which result in the development of persistent headland and embayment features. However, under Mode B, feedbacks between coastal planshape, longshore sediment transport, beach volume and wave energy result in steady state retreat rates regardless of longshore variations in resistance. Results are compared and contrasted to previous simulations and site specific examples and a conceptual model of Mode A and Mode B interactions presented. Copyright © 2015 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

7.
Beaches of tropical island coasts exhibit high levels of diversity in composition and form in comparison with their continental counterparts. To investigate the nature and origin of this diversity, individual beach morphology and sedimentology was investigated in the British Virgin Islands (BVI), a Caribbean archipelago of > 60 high volcanic and low reef islands. The islands exhibit a diversity of orientations (some facing the Atlantic and some the Caribbean), elevation and gradient, rock type and wave energy. An examination of 100 beaches in the archipelago revealed a first-order division into sand (70 beaches) and coral rubble (30 beaches). These beaches occur in seven planform types (determined by the antecedent geological framework) and are further subdivided according to shoreface type (seagrass, sandy shoreface, or reef). Mainland-attached headland-embayment beaches are the most common form of sand beach while coral rubble beaches usually occur as barriers that enclose salt ponds and wetlands. Among sand beaches, carbonate content is greatest on Atlantic-facing beaches, and coral rubble beaches are more common on Caribbean-facing beaches. Grain size characteristics on sandy beaches are highly variable and range from fine to very coarse sands while coral rubble beaches range up to boulder-sized clasts. The local source material is a primary determinant of sediment composition. The local factors such as the underlying geology, source and availability of sediments are the primary determinants of beach form, composition and texture in the BVI. Oceanographic and climatic conditions such as the prevailing easterly trade winds and waves which seasonally range in direction from east-northeast to southeast as well as beach orientation to Atlantic- or Caribbean-facing waves also contribute to the variability, but in a secondary role. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

8.
Erosion of hard‐rock coastal cliffs is understood to be caused by a combination of both marine and sub‐aerial processes. Beach morphology, tidal elevation and significant wave heights, especially under extreme storm conditions, can lead to variability in wave energy flux to the cliff‐toe. Wave and water level measurements in the nearshore under energetic conditions are difficult to obtain and in situ observations are rare. Here we use monthly cliff‐face volume changes detected using terrestrial laser scanning alongside beach morphological changes and modelled nearshore hydrodynamics to examine how exposed cliffs respond to changes in extreme wave conditions and beach morphology. The measurements cover the North Atlantic storms of 2013 to 2014 and consider two exposed stretches of coastline (Porthleven and Godrevy, UK) with contrasting beach morphology fronting the cliffs; a flat dissipative sandy beach at Godrevy and a steep reflective gravel beach at Porthleven. Beach slope and the elevation of the beach–cliff junction were found to influence the frequency of cliff inundation and the power of wave–cliff impacts. Numerical modelling (XBeach‐G) showed that under highly energetic wave conditions, i.e. those that occurred in the North Atlantic during winter 2013–2014, with Hs = 5.5 m (dissipative site) and 8 m (reflective site), the combination of greater wave height and steeper beach at the reflective site led to amplified wave run‐up, subjecting these cliffs to waves over four times as powerful as those impacting the cliffs at the dissipative site (39 kWm‐1 compared with 9 kWm‐1). This study highlighted the sensitivity of cliff erosion to extreme wave conditions, where the majority (over 90% of the annual value) of cliff‐face erosion ensued during the winter. The significance of these short‐term erosion rates in the context of long‐term retreat illustrates the importance of incorporating short‐term beach and wave dynamics into geomorphological studies of coastal cliff change. © 2017 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.  相似文献   

9.
A five‐year dataset of Argus‐derived mean intertidal positions has been analysed to characterize the shoreface variability in a beach protected by a system of groynes and a parallel low crested structure (Lido di Dante Ravenna, Italy). For the period 2004–2009, 84 intertidal beach bathymetries and shorelines at the zero sea level were used as indicators to assess beach changes in between a number of selected surveys and to determine characteristic patterns of the beach response to storm events from different directions. Variations in the shoreline at the zero sea levels have been quantified and analysed in conjunction with nearshore wave conditions and provenance linked to storm events. These fall into two categories: (1) storm events occurring during Bora (north‐eastern) wind conditions and (2) storm events occurring during Scirocco (south‐eastern) wind conditions. The results show that, apart from main beach advances of the whole protected beach due to nourishments periodically carried out, a marked variability is observed among the four sub‐cells into which the shoreface behaviour has been separately analysed. In particular, a dependence of beach rotation in the ‘artificially embayed’ area on the substantially bi‐directional wave climate has been shown: Bora and Scirocco storm events produce shoreline rotation in counterclockwise and clockwise directions, respectively, due to the occurrence of longshore currents in the opposite direction in the nearshore. An attempt was made to correlate the shoreface dynamics for the main rotation events (14 selected ones) to the wave attack intensity (as the total energy flux due to storm events). A relationship seems to occur (for each storm category) between the shoreline displacements estimated for each sub‐cell and the total energy flux computed for inter‐survey periods, supporting the occurrence of a link between the observed morphological changes and the hydrodynamic forcing associated with storm events in the five‐year monitoring period. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

10.
A new physical concept of relaxation time is introduced in this research as the time required for the beach to dissipate its initial perturbation. This concept is investigated using a simple beach-evolution model of shoreline rotation at pocket beaches, based on the assumption that the instantaneous change of the shoreline plan-view shape depends on the long-term equilibrium plan-view shape. The expression of relaxation time is developed function of the energy conditions and the physical characteristics of the beach; it increases at longer beaches having coarse sediments and experiencing low-energy conditions. The relaxation time, calculated by the developed model, is validated by the shoreline observations extracted from video images at two artificially embayed beaches of Barcelona (NW Mediterranean) suffering from perturbations of sand movement and a nourishment project. This finding is promising to estimate the shoreline response and useful to improve our understanding of the dynamic of pocket beaches and their stability.  相似文献   

11.
Montjoly is a headland‐bound embayed sandy beach in Cayenne, French Guiana, that shows long‐term plan shape equilibrium in spite of periodic changes in accretion and erosion that alternately affect either end of the beach. These changes are caused by mud banks that move alongshore from the Amazon. The mechanisms involved in changes in the plan shape of the beach in response to the passage of one of these mud banks were monitored between 1997 and 2000 from airborne video imagery and field work. The beach longshore drift to the northwest, driven by the incident easterly to northeasterly swell usually affecting this coast, became temporarily reversed as the mud bank, migrating from east to west, initially sheltered the southeastern end of the beach. The difference in exposure to waves engendered a negative wave height gradient alongshore towards the southeast, resulting in the setting up of a cell circulation and counter‐active longshore drift from the exposed northwestern sector to the southeast. Sand eroded from the exposed sector accumulated first in the southeastern, and then the central sectors of the beach. The effect of increasing beach sheltering by the mudbank moving west is highlighted on the videographs by an ‘arrested’ pattern of beach shoreline development. The videographs show hardly any changes in beach plan shape since January 1999, due to sheltering of the beach from wave attack by the mud bank. It is expected that the eroded sector will recover in the future as the mud bank passes, leading to re‐establishment of the northwesterly sand drift. This temporally phased bi‐directional drift within the confines of the bounding headlands results in a rare example of mud‐bank‐induced beach rotation, and probably explains the long‐term equilibrium plan shape of Montjoly beach. Copyright © 2002 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

12.
Gravel beaches are common throughout the high latitudes, but few studies have examined gravel transport rates, in particular at high energy levels, and no studies have quantified gravel transport around headlands. Here, we present the first complete sediment budget, including supra-, inter- and sub-tidal regions of the beach, across multiple headland-separated gravel embayments, combined with hydrodynamic observations, over an extreme storm sequence, representing at least a 1-in-50-year event. Unprecedented erosion was observed (~400 m3 m−1, −6 m vertical), with alongshore flux of 2 × 105 m3, equivalent to annual rates. Total system volume change was determined to the depth of closure and then used to calculate alongshore flux rates. Alongshore wave power was obtained from a wave transformation model. For an open section of coastline, we derive a transport coefficient (CERC formula) of KHs = 0.255 ± 0.05, exceeding estimates in lower-energy conditions by a factor of 5 or more. We apply this coefficient to rocky segments of the shoreline, determining rates of headland bypass from 0 to 31% of potential flux, controlled by headland extent and toe depth. Our results support the hypothesis that gravel is transported more efficiently at higher energy levels and that a variable rate or threshold approach may be required. Complete coverage and varying morphology make this dataset uniquely suited to improving model predictions of gravel shoreline change. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

13.
Analyses of shoreline and bathymetry change near Calais, northern coast of France, showed that shoreline evolution during the 20th century was strongly related with shoreface and nearshore bathymetry variations. Coastal erosion generally corresponds to areas of nearshore seabed lowering while shoreline progradation is essentially associated with areas of seafloor aggradation, notably east of Calais where an extensive sand flat experienced seaward shoreline displacement up to more than 300 m between 1949 and 2000. Mapping of bathymetry changes since 1911 revealed that significant variation in nearshore morphology was caused by the onshore and alongshore migration of a prominent tidal sand bank that eventually welded to the shore. Comparison of bathymetry data showed that the volume of the bank increased by about 10×107 m3 during the 20th century, indicating that the bank was acting as a sediment sink for some of the sand transiting alongshore in the coastal zone. Several lines of evidence show that the bank also represented a major sediment source for the prograding tidal flat, supplying significant amounts of sand to the accreting upper beach. Simulation of wave propagation using the SWAN wave model (Booij et al., 1999) suggests that the onshore movement of the sand bank resulted in a decrease of wave energy in the nearshore zone, leading to more dissipative conditions. Such conditions would have increased nearshore sediment supply, favoring aeolian dune development on the upper beach and shoreline progradation. Our results suggest that the onshore migration of nearshore sand banks may represent one of the most important, and possibly the primary mechanism responsible for supplying marine sand to beaches and coastal dunes in this macrotidal coastal environment.  相似文献   

14.
Groundwater seepage is known to influence beach erosion and accretion processes. However, field measurements of the variation of the groundwater seepage line (GWSL) and the vertical elevation difference between the GWSL and the shoreline are limited. We developed a methodology to extract the temporal variability of the shoreline and the wet-dry boundary using video imagery, with the overarching aim to examine elevation differences between the wet-dry boundary and the shoreline position in relation to rainfall and wave characteristics, during a tidal cycle. The wet-dry boundary was detected from 10 min time-averaged images collected at Ngaranui Beach, Raglan, New Zealand. An algorithm discriminated between the dry and wet cells using a threshold related to the maximum of the red, green, and blue intensities in Hue-Saturation-Value. Field measurements showed this corresponded to the location where the water table was within 2 cm of the beachface surface. Time stacks and time series of pixels extracted from cross-shore transects in the video imagery, were used to determine the location of the shoreline by manually digitizing the maximum run-up and minimum run-down location for each swash cycle, and averaging the result. In our test data set of 14 days covering a range of wave and rainfall conditions, we found 6 days when the elevation difference between the wet-dry boundary and the shoreline remained approximately constant during the tidal cycle. For these days, the wet-dry boundary corresponded to the upper limit of the swash zone. On the other 8 days, the wet-dry boundary and the shoreline decoupled with falling tide, leading to elevation differences of up to 2.5 m at low tide. Elevation differences between the GWSL and the shoreline at low tide were particularly large when the cumulative rainfall in the preceding month was greater than 200 mm. This research shows that the wet-dry boundary (such as often used in video shoreline-finding algorithms) is related to groundwater seepage on low-sloped, medium to fine sand beaches such as Ngaranui Beach (mean grain size ∼0.27 mm, beach slope ∼1:70) and may not be a good indicator of the position of the shoreline.  相似文献   

15.
Future shoreline changes on a sandy beach with a structure such as a jetty or groin can be estimated when wave time series is known (i.e. sequence of wave height, period, and direction). This paper presents an extension of an existing solution (Pelnard-Considere, 1956) for the linearized partial differential equation for shoreline change at an infinite jetty where waves are time varying and when the angle of the shoreline is small with respect to the waves breaking at the shoreline. The novel solution provided in this paper allows the previous constant wave condition solution to be extended to the case where wave properties (i.e. wave direction, wave height, and wave period) are time varying. Example usage of the method presented shows that shorelines may be of different final plan form shape for time varying wave conditions even though the sediment transport along adjacent beaches is not spatially varying (i.e. spatially constant) from time step to time step. Although this difference in shape may have been known previously using numerical models, it could not be proved analytically. Reversals of wave height, period, and direction time series are shown to provide different final shoreline shapes even though the time series consists of the same waves although in different ordered time. The solution provided will allow one line numerical shoreline models to be tested using an analytic solution.  相似文献   

16.
Airborne hyperspectral data and airborne laserscan or LIDAR data were applied to analyse the sediment transport and the beach morphodynamics along the Belgian shoreline. Between 2000 and 2004, four airborne acquisitions were performed with both types of sensor. The hyperspectral data were classified into seven sand type classes following a supervised classification approach, in which feature selection served to reduce the number of bands in the hyperspectral data. The seven classes allowed us to analyse the spatial dynamics of specific sediment volumes. The technique made it possible to distinguish the sand used for berm replenishment works or for beach nourishments from the sand naturally found on the backshore and the foreshore. Subtracting sequential DTMs (digital terrain models) resulted in height difference maps indicating the erosion and accretion zones. The combination of both data types, hyperspectral data and LIDAR data, provides a powerful tool, suited to analyse the dynamics of sandy shorelines. The technique was demonstrated on three sites along the Belgian shoreline: Koksijde, located on the West Coast and characterized by wide accretional beaches, influenced by dry berm replenishment works and the construction of groins; Zeebrugge, on the Middle Coast, where a beach nourishment was executed one year before the acquisitions started and where the dams of the harbour of Zeebrugge are responsible for the formation of a large accretional beach, and Knokke‐Heist, located on the East Coast and characterized by narrow, locally reflective, beaches, heavily influenced by nourishment activities. The methodology applied allowed retrieval of the main sediment transport directions as well as the amount of sediment transported. It proved to be specifically suited to follow up the redistribution and the re‐sorting of the fill in beach nourishment areas. Copyright © 2007 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

17.
This study analyses beach morphological change during six consecutive storms acting on the meso‐tidal Faro Beach (south Portugal) between 15 December 2009 and 7 January 2010. Morphological change of the sub‐aerial beach profile was monitored through frequent topographic surveys across 11 transects. Measurements of the surf/swash zone dimensions, nearshore bar dynamics, and wave run‐up were extracted from time averaged and timestack coastal images, and wave and tidal data were obtained from offshore stations. All the information combined suggests that during consecutive storm events, the antecedent morphological state can initially be the dominant controlling factor of beach response; while the hydrodynamic forcing, and especially the tide and surge levels, become more important during the later stages of a storm period. The dataset also reveals the dynamic nature of steep‐sloping beaches, since sub‐aerial beach volume reductions up to 30 m3/m were followed by intertidal area recovery (–2 < z < 3 m) with rates reaching ~10 m3/m. However, the observed cumulative dune erosion and profile pivoting imply that storms, even of regular intensity, can have a dramatic impact when they occur in groups. Nearshore bars seemed to respond to temporal scales more related to storm sequences than to individual events. The formation of a prominent crescentic offshore bar at ~200 m from the shoreline appeared to reverse the previous offshore migration trend of the inner bar, which was gradually shifted close to the seaward swash zone boundary. The partially understood nearshore bar processes appeared to be critical for storm wave attenuation in the surf zone; and were considered mainly responsible for the poor interpretation of the observed beach behaviour on the grounds of standard, non‐dimensional, morphological parameters. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

18.
Deposits of late‐Holocene beach sand buried conifer forests episodically emerge on beaches of the Oregon coast. Simultaneously, sand dunes buried late‐Holocene forests growing on marine terraces landward of the beaches. Dune ramps, up to 60 m in elevation, connected the beach and dune deposits. The average age of wood samples from stumps rooted on the shore platforms is 3·07 ± 1·45 ka. The average age of wood and charcoal samples embedded in forest soil on the marine terraces is 3·27 ± 1·46 ka. Between 1994 and 2006, winter storm waves exposed more than 4·5 km2 of late‐Holocene forest soil on shore platforms at 19 localities. Rooted stumps without soil were uncovered at an additional 14 localities. Once exposed, wave action eroded the soil rapidly (one to two years). The intact forest soil and roots on the shore platforms must have been nearly continuously buried, protected and preserved prior to recent exposure. The late‐Holocene buried forest provides the basis for a conceptual model of coastal evolution. A three stage reversal of erosion and sand supply must have occurred: (1) wave erosion switched to seaward advancement of forests, (2) forest growth and soil development switched to burial beneath beach and dune sand and (3) burial and preservation switched to wave erosion, truncation of dune ramps and landward retreat of sea cliffs. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

19.
Nearshore bars play a pivotal role in coastal behaviour, helping to protect and restore beach systems particularly in post‐storm conditions. Examination of bar behaviour under various forcing conditions is important to help understand the short‐ to medium‐term evolution of sandy beach systems. This study carried out over a nine‐week period examines, the behaviour of three intertidal bars along a high energy sandy beach system in northwest Ireland using high‐frequency topographic surveys and detailed nearshore hydrodynamic modelling. Results show that, in general, there was onshore migration for all the bars during the study period, despite the variability observed between bars, which was driven mostly by wave dominated processes. Under the prevailing conditions migration rates of up to 1.83 m day?1 and as low as 0.07 m day?1 were observed. During higher wave energy events the migration rates of the bars decelerated in their onshore route, however, under lower wave energy conditions, they quickly accelerated maintaining their shoreward migration direction. Tidal influence appears to be subordinate in these conditions, being restricted to moderating the localized wave energy at low tides and in maintaining runnel configurations providing accommodation space for advancing slip faces. The study highlights the intricate behavioural patterns of intertidal bar behaviour along a high energy sandy coastline and provides new insights into the relative importance of wave and tidal forcing on bar behaviour over a relatively short time period. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

20.
Short‐lived collapse features affecting the intertidal sandy profile were observed on mud‐rich beaches in Cayenne. They were formed in packets of beach sand accumulating over thick (several metres) fluid to under‐consolidated foreshore mud, which adjusts to this sand loading by seaward and longshore migration of fluid mud and subsequent in situ mud dewatering, thus generating subsidence and deformation of the overlying sand sheet. These sandy collapse features required active longshore sand transport and were washed out by wave processes at each rising tide. They finally disappeared permanently as adjustment of the underlying mud enabled stabilization of the beach profile. Copyright © 2006 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

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