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1.
Shoreline evolution due to longshore sediment transport is one of the most important problems in coastal engineering and management. This paper describes a method to predict the probability distributions of long-term shoreline positions in which the evolution process is based on the standard one-line model recast into a stochastic differential equation. The time-dependent and spatially varying probability density function of the shoreline position leads to a Fokker–Planck equation model. The behaviour of the model is evaluated by applying it to two simple shoreline configurations: a single long jetty perpendicular to a straight shoreline and a rectangular beach nourishment case. The sensitivity of the model predictions to variations in the wave climate parameters is shown. The results indicate that the proposed model is robust and computationally efficient compared with the conventional Monte Carlo simulations.  相似文献   

2.
An 8‐year time series of weekly shoreline data collected at the Gold Coast, Australia, is used to examine the temporal evolution of a beach, focusing on the frequency response of the shoreline to time‐varying wave height and period. Intriguingly, during 2005 the movement of the shoreline at this site changed from a seasonally‐dominated mode (annual cycle) to a storm‐dominated (~monthly) mode. This unexpected observation provides the opportunity to explore the drivers of the observed shoreline response. Utilizing the calibration of an equilibrium shoreline model to explore the time‐scales of underlying beach behavior, the best‐fit frequency response (days?1) is shown to be an order of magnitude higher post‐2004, suggesting that a relatively subtle change in wave forcing can drive a significant change in shoreline response. Analysis of available wave data reveals a statistically significant change in the seasonality of storms, from predominantly occurring at the start of the year pre‐2005 to being relatively consistent throughout the year after this time. The observed change from one mode of shoreline variability to another suggests that beaches can adapt relatively quickly to subtle changes in the intra‐annual distribution of wave energy. Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

3.
While the study of kinematic interaction (i.e. the dynamic response of massless foundations to seismic loads) calls, in general, for advanced analytical and numerical techniques, an excellent approximation was proposed recently by Iguchi.1,2 This approximation was used by the authors to analyse embedded foundations subjected to spatially random SH-wave fields, i.e. motions that exhibit some degree of incoherence. The wave fields considered ranged from perfectly coherent motions (resulting from seismic waves arriving from a single direction) to chaotic motions, resulting from waves arriving simultaneously from all directions. Additional parameters considered were the shape of the foundation (cylindrical or rectangular) and the degree of embedment. It was found that kinematic interaction usually reduces the severity of the motions transmitted to the structure, and that incoherent motions do not exhibit the frequency selectivity (i.e. narrow valleys in the foundation response spectra) that coherent motions do.  相似文献   

4.
Since cuspate coastlines are especially sensitive to changes in wave climate, they serve as potential indicators of initial responses to changing wave conditions. Previous work demonstrates that Cape Hatteras and Cape Lookout, North Carolina, which are largely unaffected by shoreline stabilization efforts, have become increasingly asymmetric over the past 30 years, consistent with model predictions for coastline response to increases in Atlantic Ocean summer wave heights and resulting changes in the distribution of wave‐approach angles. Historic and recent shoreline change observations for Cape Fear, North Carolina, and model simulations of coastline response to an increasingly asymmetric wave climate in the presence of beach nourishment, produce comparable differences in shoreline change rates in response to changes in wave climate. Results suggest that the effect of beach nourishment is to compensate for – and therefore to mask – natural responses to wave climate change that might otherwise be discernible in patterns of shoreline change alone. Therefore, this case study suggests that the effects of wave climate change on human‐modified coastlines may be detectable in the spatial and temporal patterns of shoreline stabilization activities. Similar analyses of cuspate features in areas where the change in wave climate is less pronounced (i.e. Fishing Point, Maryland/Virginia) and where local geology appears to exert control on coastline shape (i.e. Cape Canaveral, Florida), suggest that changes in shoreline configuration that may be arising from shifting wave climate are currently limited to sandy wave‐dominated coastlines where the change in wave climate has been most pronounced. However, if hurricane‐generated wave heights continue to increase, large‐scale shifts in patterns of erosion and accretion will likely extend beyond sensitive cuspate features as the larger‐scale coastline shape comes into equilibrium with changing wave conditions. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

5.
Profiles were analysed in conjunction with wave climate to assess offshore island influences on an embayed beach at Tenby, Wales. Time series analyses showed medium and short‐term beach oscillation, with volume exchanges between zones lagging by up to six months. Dominant southerly and southwesterly waves caused sub and low tidal longshore drift from south towards north, while less frequent southeasterly waves generated counter drift. Modelled inshore breaking waves had less energy than offshore ones and the former behaved differently between the low and high tidal zones (spring tidal range of 7 · 5 m). Variations in wave direction from directly behind the islands resulted in reduced wave heights and statistical analyses agreed with wave model results. These were correlated to morphological change and it was concluded that offshore islands change wave dynamics and modify the morphology of embayed beaches in their lee. Consequently, this work provides significant new insights into offshore island influences, shoreline behaviour and especially tidal setting Copyright © 2013 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

6.
太湖不同湖区风浪的季节变化特征   总被引：5，自引：3，他引：2  
为明晰太湖风浪的空间分布及季节变化,在湖心区设立波浪观测站,利用其记录的波浪数据证明SWAN模型能够较好地模拟太湖风浪.基于所建模型,对2013年自然风场条件下太湖不同湖区风浪季节动态进行模拟分析,结果表明:受岸线、地形和岛屿等地理因素影响,大太湖的风浪总是最强,其有效波高均值为0.523 m;而东太湖风浪最小,有效波高均值为0.305 m.受盛行风场季节变化影响,太湖春、夏季有效波高均值明显大于秋、冬季.太湖波浪的能量主要来源于风场,其有效波高随风速增大而增大,两者呈极显著正相关.而风向则可以通过改变风区长度来影响风浪生消.在偏东风作用下,太湖湖西区的风浪大于东部湖区;而受盛行于冬季的偏北风影响,太湖南部水域风浪要大于北部.同时,太湖风浪的时空分布特征是造成太湖水质参数、沉积物和水生植物空间分布差异的重要原因之一.  相似文献   

7.
Various components including wave scattering, wave passage, and site amplification effects cause the ground motion to vary spatially. The spatially varying ground motion can significantly influence the dynamic response of longitudinal structures such as bridges and tunnels. While its effect on bridges has been extensively studied, there is a lack of study on its effect on underground tunnels. This paper develops a new procedure for simulating the tunnel response under spatially varying ground motion. The procedure utilizes the longitudinal displacement profile, which is developed from spatially variable ground motion time histories. The longitudinal displacement profile is used to perform a series of pseudo-static three-dimensional finite-element analyses. Results of the analyses show that the spatially variable ground motion causes longitudinal bending of the tunnel and can induce substantial axial stress on the tunnel lining. The effect can be significant at boundaries at which the properties of the ground change in the longitudinal direction.  相似文献   

8.
The objective of the research is to analyze in detail the causes and consequences of the unusual event at the coast of Guyana (South America) during October 16–19, 2005. Several sea defense structures were damaged and flooding of low-lying areas occurred. A data analysis of offshore wave and water level characteristics shows an abrupt change in wave direction from east to almost north on October 16, 2005 and a sudden increase in the offshore peak period up to extreme values. The offshore significant wave height was also relatively high, and these wave characteristics coincided with springtide conditions. The long-wave periods and the sharp transition in wave direction indicate that this event is associated with swell waves generated by a depression far away. An analysis of hurricanes and depressions reveals that a severe depression in the Northern Atlantic Ocean during October 11–15 was the origin of this swell event. Numerical computations with SWAN have been carried out to investigate the propagation of the offshore wave characteristics towards the shoreline. The SWAN model includes wave damping due to the presence of soft mud deposits. A calibration of the parameters has been carried out using joint offshore and onshore wave data from November 2006. The numerical simulations of the event in October 2005 clearly demonstrate that the mud banks damp the wave heights, but have almost no effect on the peak period. The resulting waves at the steep sea walls can be classified as surging waves causing severe runup and overtopping. The obtained insights are translated into practical recommendations for the Guyana Sea and River Defence Division in Guyana to build a sustainable management and maintenance of the sea defenses in the future.  相似文献   

9.
The occurrence and characteristics of transverse finger bars at Surfers Paradise (Gold Coast, Australia) have been quantified with 4 years of time-exposure video images. These bars are attached to the inner terrace and have an oblique orientation with respect to the coastline. They are observed during 24 % of the study period, in patches up to 15 bars, with an average lifetime of 5 days and a mean wavelength of 32 m. The bars are observed during obliquely incident waves of intermediate heights. Bar crests typically point toward the incoming wave direction, i.e., they are up-current oriented. The most frequent beach state when bars are present (43 % of the time) is a rhythmic low-tide terrace and an undulating outer bar. A morphodynamic model, which describes the feedback between waves, currents, and bed evolution, has been applied to study the mechanisms for finger bar formation. Realistic positive feedback leading to the formation of the observed bars only occurs if the sediment resuspension due to roller-induced turbulence is included. This causes the depth-averaged sediment concentration to decrease in the seaward direction, enhancing the convergence of sediment transport in the offshore-directed flow perturbations that occur over the up-current bars. The longshore current strength also plays an important role; the offshore root-mean-square wave height and angle must be larger than some critical values (0.5 m and 20°, respectively, at 18-m depth). Model-data comparison indicates that the modeled bar shape characteristics (up-current orientation) and the wave conditions leading to the bar formation agree with data, while the modeled wavelengths and migration rates are larger than the observed ones. The discrepancies might be because in the model we neglect the influence of the large-scale beach configuration.  相似文献   

10.
ＴｈｅＱｖａｌｕｅｖａｒｉａｔｉｏｎｓｉｎｔｈｅｐｒｅｐａｒｉｎｇｐｒｏ┐ｃｅｓｏｆｒｏｃｋｒｕｐｔｕｒｅＢＩＮＷＡＮＧ１）（王彬），ＺＨＡＯ－ＹＯＮＧＸＵ１）（许昭永），ＪＩＮ－ＭＩＮＧＺＨＡＯ１）（赵晋明）ＹＩ－ＬＩＨＵ２）（胡毅力）１）Ｓｅｉ...  相似文献   

11.
Sandbars, submerged ridges of sand parallel to the shoreline, affect surfzone circulation, beach topography and beach width. Under time‐varying wave forcing, sandbars may migrate onshore and offshore, referred to as two‐dimensional (2D) behaviour, and vary in planshape from alongshore uniform ridges to alongshore non‐uniform ridges through the growth and decay of three‐dimensional (3D) patterns, referred to as 3D behaviour. Although 2D and 3D sandbar behaviour is reasonably well understood along straight coasts, this is not the case for curved coasts, where the curvature can invoke spatial variability in wave forcing. Here, we analyse sandbar behaviour along the ～3000 m man‐made curved coastline of the Sand Engine, Netherlands, and determine the wave conditions governing this behaviour. 2D and 3D behaviour was quantified within a box north and west of the Sand Engine's tip, respectively, using a 2.4‐year dataset of daily low‐tide video images and a sparser bathymetric dataset. The northern and western sides behaved similarly in terms of 2D behaviour, with seasonal onshore and offshore migration, resulting in a stable position on inter‐annual timescales. However, both sandbar geometry and 3D behaviour differed substantially between both sides. The geometric differences (bar shape, bar crest depth and wavelength of 3D patterns) are consistent with computed alongshore differences in breaker height due to refraction. The differences in the timing in growth, decay and morphological coupling of 3D patterns in the sandbar and shoreline are likely related to differences in the local wave angle, imposed by the curved coast. Similar dependency of bar behaviour on local wave height and angle may be expected elsewhere along curved coasts, e.g. shoreline sandwaves, cuspate forelands or embayed beaches. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

12.
The multi-decadal wave conditions in the North Sea can be influenced by anthropogenic climate change. That may lead to the intensification of wave extremes in the future and consequently increase risks for the coastal areas as well as for on- and offshore human activities. Potential changes caused by alteration of atmospheric patterns are investigated. Four transient climate projections (1961–2100), reflecting two IPCC emission scenarios (A1B and B1) and two different initial states, are used to simulate the wave scenarios. The potential wind-induced changes in waves are studied by comparing future statistics (2001–2100) with the corresponding reference conditions (1961–2000). Generally, there is a small increase in future 99th percentile significant wave height for most eastern parts of the North Sea towards the end of the twenty-first century. This small increase is superimposed by a strong variability of the annual extremes on time scales of decades. Opposite to the differences in wave height, the change in wave direction to more waves propagating east shows less decadal variability and is more uniform among all realizations. Nevertheless, temporal and spatial differences of the wave height in the four climate projections point to the uncertainties in the climate change signals.  相似文献   

13.
Periods of planetary waves, especially the 10- and 16-day waves, were found in Fourier analyses of 10-year geomagnetic time series from two mid-latitude stations in the northern hemisphere. This suggests that planetary waves influence geomagnetic variations. Cross-spectral analysis of magnetic time series from seven stations located at around 50°N at the beginning of 1979, when a 16-day wave occurred in the stratosphere, also shows a 16-day oscillation. However, study of the phases does not reveal the horizontal direction of wave propagation. Furthermore, the temporal variations of the 16-day oscillation in magnetic time series are presented as dynamic spectra and the results are compared with global investigations of geopotential height data at 1 hPa (around 48 km) with respect to the 16-day wave for the same time interval. In some cases this comparison suggests a clear correlation between geomagnetic variations and planetary waves as well as a propagation of the 16-day wave up to the dynamo region (100-170 km).  相似文献   

14.
A method for delimiting the swash zone and regions within is presented. Two regions are recognized and distinguished by their differing flow kinematics. The outer swash region involves wave-swash interactions and related processes, whereas the inner swash region consists of pure swash motion (i.e., free from interaction with subsequent waves). The boundary between these two hydrokinematic regions can be determined from shoreline elevation time series. The vertical extent of the outer swash was found to scale directly with inner surf zone wave variance and beach slope. Since the vertical extent of the entire swash zone also varies directly with the former, the relative extents of the outer and inner swash are approximately constant for the range of beach slopes investigated here. The efficacy of a previously utilized method for determining the location of instruments in the swash zone, based on the percentage of time the bed is inundated, is established here for the first time. A new method for determining the location of an instrument station within either of the hydrokinematic regions is also presented, and requires only a single pressure sensor time series. The data discussed here include over 140 runup time series collected from five different sandy beaches with beach face gradients ranging from 0.03 to 0.12. The results are expected to be generally applicable to swell-dominated sandy beaches, where swash is driven by a combination of short and long waves in the inner surf zone. The applicability of the results at either extreme of the reflective–dissipative continuum remains to be established.  相似文献   

15.
Wave measurement and modeling in Chesapeake Bay   总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4  
Three recently measured wind and wave data sets in the northern part of Chesapeake Bay (CB) are presented. Two of the three data sets were collected in late 1995. The third one was collected in July of 1998. The analyzed wind and wave data show that waves were dominated by locally generated, fetch limited young wind seas. Significant wave heights were highly correlated to the local driving wind speeds and the response time of the waves to the winds was about 1 h. We also tested two very different numerical wave models, Simulation of WAves Nearshore (SWAN) and Great Lakes Environmental Research Laboratory (GLERL), to hind-cast the wave conditions against the data sets. Time series model–data comparisons made using SWAN and GLERL showed that both models behaved well in response to a suddenly changing wind. In general, both SWAN and GLERL over-predicted significant wave height; SWAN over-predicted more than GLERL did. SWAN had a larger scatter index and a smaller correlation coefficient for wave height than GLERL had. In addition, both models slightly under-predicted the peak period with a fairly large scatter and low correlation coefficient. SWAN predicted mean wave direction better than GLERL did. Directional wave spectral comparisons between SWAN predictions and the data support these statistical comparisons. The GLERL model was much more computationally efficient for wind wave forecasts in CB. SWAN and GLERL predicted different wave height field distributions for the same winds in deeper water areas of the Bay where data were not available, however. These differences are as yet unresolved.  相似文献   

16.
采用包括耗散的射线跟踪方法，计算了在水平不均匀风场作用下，不同尺度重力波从对流层直至220km观测高度的传播，结果表明，垂直于重力波传播方向的风以及风剪切能够引起波射线的折射，从而导致重力波明显偏离初始传播方向.在强顺风场作用下，由于风场引起的捕获，大量重力波不能传播到观测高度.由于风场引起的多普勒频移，小周期的重力波在弱顺风条件下能够传播到观测高度.由于反射作用，强逆风场不支持周期低于约18min的较高频重力波的传播.而在弱逆风作用下，大部分中尺度范围重力波都能够传播到观测高度.本文统计了武汉电离层观象台的TID观测数据随热层风场的分布，统计结果与模拟结果符合较好.  相似文献   

17.
In this short paper the exclusion circles and vertical phase locities for gravity waves launched from the ground into a time-varying wind are studied using a ray-tracing technique. It is shown that waves with initial observed phase speeds that should place them within the local temporally varying exclusion circle, are often Doppler shifted outside of the circle. This, and the finite lifetime of some critical levels, allow waves to survive the critical layer and reach higher altitudes. Also, for slower phase-speed waves, the temporally varying wind can shift the observed frequency to negative values, so that the observed phase motions will be opposite (i.e. horizontally reversed and vertically upward), even though the energy still propagates upward. This effect can also cause the phase velocity to move inside the local exclusion circle. Due to the directional filtering of wave sources by the stratospheric wind, the percentage of such reverse-propagating waves will change systematically with local time and height in our simplified but realistic model. These results are related to ground-based systems, optical and radar, which sample the wind field and gravity waves in the middle atmosphere.  相似文献   

18.
A solution for the two-dimensional scattering and diffraction of plane SH waves by canyons of arbitrary shape in an elastic half space is presented. The wave field for arbitrary geometry in this paper is computed numerically by the method of weighted residues (moment method). The wave displacement field computed by the present residual method for the case of a semi-circular canyon was shown to agree analytically and numerically with that computed by the exact closed form series solution. The same observations about ground amplifications, their dependence on frequencies and orientations of the incident waves, can be stated here for canyons of arbitrary shape as previously made for circular canyons.  相似文献   

19.
Kilometric-scale shoreline sand waves (KSSW) have been observed in the north-east flank of the Dungeness Cuspate Foreland (southeastern coast of the UK). They consist of two bumps separated by embayments with a 350–450-m spacing. We have analysed 36 shoreline surveys of 2-km length using the Discrete Fourier Transformation (DFT), from 2005 to 2016, and seven topographic surveys encompassing the intertidal zone, from 2010 to 2016. The data set shows two clear formation events. In order to test the role of high-angle waves on the KSSW formation, the 10-year wave series is propagated from the wave buoy located at 43 m depth up to a location in front of the undulations at 4 m depth using the SWAN wave model. The dominating SW waves arrive with a very high incidence angle (～ 80°) while the NE waves arrive almost shore normal. The ratio R, which measures the degree of dominance of high-angle waves with respect to low-angle waves, correlates well with the shoreline DFT magnitude values of the observed wavelength undulations. In particular, the highest R values coincide with the formation events. Finally, a linear stability model based on the one-line approximation is applied to the Dungeness profile and the 10-year propagated wave series. It predicts accurately the formation moments, with positive growth rates in the correct order of magnitude for wavelengths similar to the observed ones. All these results confirm that the shoreline undulations in Dungeness are self-organized and that the underlying formation mechanism is the high-angle wave instability. The two detected formation events provide a unique opportunity to validate the existing morphodynamic models that include such instability.  相似文献   

20.
Seismic risk analysis and mitigation of spatially extended structures require the synthesis of spatially varying ground motions in the response history analysis of these structures. These synthetic motions are usually desired to be spatially correlated, site reflected, nonstationary, and compatible with target design response spectra. In this paper, a method is presented for simulating spatially varying ground motions considering the nonstationarity, local site effects, and compatibility of response spectra. The scheme for generating spatially varying and response spectra compatible ground motions is first established for spatial locations on the ground surface with varying site conditions. The design response spectrum is introduced as the “power” spectrum at the base rock. The site amplification approach is then derived based on the deterministic wave propagation theory, by assuming that the base rock motions consist of out-of-plane SH wave or in-plane combined P and SV waves propagating into the site with assumed incident angles, from which tri-directional spatial ground motions can be generated. The phase difference spectrum is employed to model ground motions exhibiting nonstationarity in both frequency and time domains with different site conditions. The proposed scheme is demonstrated with numerical examples.  相似文献   

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