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1.
Submarine dune dynamics are controlled by tidal currents and wind forces. According to the relative influence of these forces and the nature of dune sediment, different bedform behaviors can be observed. The footprint of the different hydrodynamic agents is recorded into the internal architecture of dunes. This paper is concerned with bedforms that compose the thick sediment wedge located in the eastern English Channel, off the Bay of Somme. This sedimentary archive constitutes an interesting feature to achieve a better understanding of seabed sediment dynamics and its timeline building stages. The dynamics of large submarine dunes, which are organized in fields, are studied thanks to bathymetric and seismic data over the periods 1937–1993 and 1993–2007. Dune morphology presents low lee and stoss side slopes (on average 8° and 3°, respectively) and dune migration rate is not very high. Dune movements are in the direction of residual tidal currents, i.e. toward the east, with mean migration rates around 0·8 to 5 ± 0·25 m yr?1 and up to 6·6 ± 0·7 m yr?1, respectively, at multi‐decennial and decennial time scales. The dune internal architecture is complex with superimposed eastward prograding units, displaying locally opposite progradation. Second‐order discontinuities (dip of 0·5°–4° perpendicular to dune crests) constitute dune master bedding. By counting the number of second‐order reflectors between 1937–1993 and 1993–2007, the formation periodicity of these bounding surfaces is estimated to range from 4 to 18 years. These time intervals coincide with the long‐term tidal cyclicities and also with the inter‐annual to decennial variability of storm activity in northern Europe. Two theories were made to interpret the dune internal structures: the second‐order surfaces are interpreted either as the depositional surfaces corresponding to the marks of weak energy periods (weak tidal and storm action), or as erosive surfaces due to an opposite direction of dune migration provoked temporarily by exceptional storms from the northeast. Copyright © 2010 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

2.
The Basque coastal area, in the southeastern Bay of Biscay, can be characterised as being more influenced by land climate and inputs, than other typically ‘open sea’ areas. The influence of coastal processes, together with the presence of irregular and steep topography, complicate greatly the water circulation patterns. Water movement along the Basque coastal area is not well understood; observations are scarce and long-term current records are lacking. The knowledge available is confined to the surface currents: the surface water circulation is controlled mainly by wind forcing, with tidal and density currents being weak. However, there is a lack of knowledge available on currents within the lower levels of the water column; likewise, on the main time-scales involved in the water circulation. This study quantifies the contribution of the tidal and wind-induced currents, to the overall water circulation; it identifies the main time-scales involved within the tidal and wind-induced flows, investigating difference in such currents, throughout the water column, within Pasaia Bay (Basque coast). Within this context, extensive oceanographic and meteorological data have been obtained, in order to describe the circulation. The present investigation reveals that the circulation, within the surface and the sub-surface waters, is controlled mainly by wind forcing fluctuations, over a wide range of meteorological frequencies: third-diurnal, semidiurnal and diurnal land–sea breezes; synoptic variability; frequencies, near fortnightly periods; and seasonal. At the lower levels of the water column, the main contribution to the water circulation arises from residual currents, followed by wind-induced currents on synoptic time-scales. In contrast, tidal currents contribute minimally to the overall circulation throughout the water column.  相似文献   

3.
The effect of hydro-meteorological forcings (tidal and wind-induced flows) on the transport of suspended particulate matter (SPM), on the formation of high-concentrated mud suspensions and on the occurrence of sand–mud suspensions has been studied using long-term multi-parametric observations. Data have been collected in a coastal turbidity maximum area (southern North Sea) where a mixture of sandy and muddy sediments prevails. Data have been classified according to variations in subtidal alongshore currents, with the direction of subtidal flow depending on wind direction. This influences the position of the turbidity maximum; as such also the origin of SPM. Winds blowing from the NE will increase SPM concentration, whilst SW winds will induce a decrease. The latter is related to advection of less turbid English Channel water, inducing a shift of the turbidity maximum towards the NE and the Westerschelde estuary. Under these conditions, marine mud will be imported and buffered in the estuary. Under persistent NE winds, high-concentrated mud suspensions are formed and remain present during several tidal cycles. Data show that SPM consists of a mixture of flocs and locally eroded sand grains during high currents. This has implications towards used instrumentation: SPM concentration estimates from optical backscatter sensors will only be reliable when SPM consists of cohesive sediments only; with mixtures of cohesive and non-cohesive sediments, a combination of both optical and acoustic sensors are needed to get an accurate estimate of the total SPM concentration.  相似文献   

4.
《Continental Shelf Research》2007,27(10-11):1568-1583
A study is presented where satellite images (SeaWiFS), in situ measurements (tidal cycle and snapshot) and a 2D hydrodynamic numerical model have been combined to calculate the long term SPM (Suspended Particulate Matter) transport through the Dover Strait and in the southern North Sea. The total amount of SPM supplied to the North Sea through the Dover Strait is estimated to be 31.74×106 t. The satellite images provide synoptic views of SPM concentration distribution but do not take away the uncertainty of SPM transport calculation. This is due to the fact that SPM concentration varies as a function of tide, wind, spring-neap tidal cycles and seasons. The short term variations (tidal, spring-neap tidal cycle) have not been found in the satellite images, however seasonal variations are clearly visible. Furthermore the SPM concentration in the satellite images is generally lower than in the in situ measurements. The representativness of SPM concentration maps derived from satellites for calculating long term transports has therefore been investigated by comparing the SPM concentration variability from the in situ measurements with those of the remote sensing data. The most important constraints of satellite images are related to the fact that satellite data is evidence of clear sky conditions, whereas in situ measurements from a vessel can be carried out also during rougher meteorological conditions and that due to the too low time resolution of the satellite images the SPM concentration peaks are often missed. It is underlined that SPM concentration measurements should be carried out during at least one tidal cycle in high turbidity areas to obtain representative values of SPM concentration.  相似文献   

5.
For development of embryo dunes on the highly dynamic land–sea boundary, summer growth and the absence of winter erosion are essential. Other than that, however, we know little about the specific conditions that favour embryo dune development. This study explores the boundary conditions for early dune development to enable better predictions of natural dune expansion. Using a 30 year time series of aerial photographs of 33 sites along the Dutch coast, we assessed the influence of beach morphology (beach width and tidal range), meteorological conditions (storm characteristics, wind speed, growing season precipitation, and temperature), and sand nourishment on early dune development. We examined the presence and area of embryo dunes in relation to beach width and tidal range, and compared changes in embryo dune area to meteorological conditions and whether sand nourishment had been applied. We found that the presence and area of embryo dunes increased with increasing beach width. Over time, embryo dune area was negatively correlated with storm intensity and frequency. Embryo dune area was positively correlated with precipitation in the growing season and sand nourishment. Embryo dune area increased in periods of low storm frequency and in wet summers, and decreased in periods of high storm frequency or intensity. We conclude that beach morphology is highly influential in determining the potential for new dune development, and wide beaches enable development of larger embryo dune fields. Sand nourishment stimulates dune development by increasing beach width. Finally, weather conditions and non‐interrupted sequences of years without high‐intensity storms determine whether progressive dune development will take place. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

6.
Subaqueous dunes are often observed to be superimposed on larger dunes, sand bars and tidal ridges, while smaller dunes may also be found superimposed on larger dunes. In this study an automated method has been developed by which the geometry of superimposed rhythmic bedforms can be analysed. The method combines two-dimensional (2D) Fourier analysis, wavelet transform, zero-crossing analysis and a variety of filters. Instead of applying conventional manual procedures, the wavelength of interest can be automatically determined by a series of 2D Fourier analyses, which is a critical first step for automated analysis of dune geometries. Based on such efficient data preprocessing, the method can accurately determine dune orientation, separate target bedform profiles, and identify crests and troughs. With the input of bathymetry, the dominant regional dune orientation can be determined together with the geometric parameters of individual dunes (wavelength, height, leeside angles) and their spatial distribution. The method was applied to both synthetic and observed bathymetries of a tidal ridge off the Jiangsu coast, China, and a sand bank in the Dover Strait, UK. The results show that almost all dunes in the domain were detected and their geometric parameters accurately calculated, especially in areas of bedform superimposition. © 2020 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

7.
Longitudinal dune fields characterized by nearly uniform interdune spacing are distinguished from longitudinal dune fields characterized by fairly variable interdune spacing and high frequencies of dune coalescence. The empirical and theoretical evidence indicating that the former may be due to helical air currents aligned with the dunes is reviewed. Hypotheses arguing that the latter may arise indirectly from horizontal pressure gradients or bidirectional wind regimes are discussed. Evenly spaced linear sand banks aligned with tidal currents may be shown mathematically to result from energy optimalization within two-dimensional, sand-transporting flow regimes, and a similar simple or non-rotational flow model is considered for the problem of desert longitudinal dunes. An initial complex or rotational flow analysis is undertaken to discern the likely significance of roll vortices in desert sediment transport. An ‘evolutionary timescale’ is estimated for the formation of desert longitudinal dune fields. A simple analysis is performed for the effect of regional sand mass change on longitudinal dune field ordering. Recommendations are made for future empirical and theoretical research.  相似文献   

8.
Tidal sand dune dynamics is observed for two tidal cycles in the Arcachon tidal inlet, southwest France. An array of instruments is deployed to measure bathymetric and current variations along dune profiles. Based on the measurements, dune crest horizontal and vertical displacements are quantified and show important dynamics in phase with tidal currents. We observed superimposed ripples on the dune stoss side and front, migrating and changing polarity as tidal currents reverse. A 2D RANS numerical model is used to simulate the morphodynamic evolution of a flat non-cohesive sand bed submitted to a tidal current. The model reproduces the bed evolution until a field of sand bedforms is obtained that are comparable with observed superimposed ripples in terms of geometrical dimensions and dynamics. The model is then applied to simulate the dynamics of a field of large sand dunes of similar size as the dunes observed in situ. In both cases, simulation results compare well with measurements qualitatively and quantitatively. This research allows for a better understanding of tidal sand dune and superimposed ripple morphodynamics and opens new perspectives for the use of numerical models to predict their evolution.  相似文献   

9.
The structure and variability of the currents in the Luzon Strait during spring of 2002 are studied, based on the current measurements at the average position of the mooring station (20°49′57"N, 120°48′12"E) from March 17 to April 15, 2002, satellite geostrophic currents in the Luzon Strait, and the spectral analyses, using the maximum entropy method. The subtidal currents at the mooring station show de-creased amplitudes downward with an anti-cyclonic rotation, suggesting that the currents enter and exit t...  相似文献   

10.
The construction of a Giant Sea Wall (GSW) complex in Jakarta Bay has been proposed to protect Jakarta against flood in the Master Plan for National Capital Integrated Coastal Development (NCICD). However, these large-scale hydraulic structures could significantly change the tidal dynamics in Jakarta Bay. This research investigates the potential impacts of a GSW on the tidal dynamics, including tides, currents, and residual currents in Jakarta Bay using a validated numerical model (Finite Volume Coastal Ocean Model (FVCOM)). Results show that the bay is diurnal with a maximum tidal range of ~0.9 m. The flow is mainly in an east-west direction with a maximum depth-mean current speed of up to 0.3 ms?1. The construction of a GSW would modulate the tidal dynamics by changing the bathymetry, tidal prism, wind effect, and tidal choking effect in the bay. The maximum tidal range would be slightly increased due to the reduced tidal prism of the bay and the increased tidal choking effect. The current would penetrate into the west reservoir through the gates and channels between the artificial islands, with peak speed jets appearing at the gates (~0.3 ms?1), due to tidal choking. A similar peak current speed appears near the right wing of the GSW due to the pressure gradient would be created by the wing of the GSW. Closing the gates would mainly affect the currents inside the west reservoir. The residual current would be slightly increased after the construction of the GSW. An eddy would be formed at the bottom level near the right wing of the GSW. The direction of the residual current is landward instead of seaward at the surface level outside the GSW. The impact of wind on surface currents would be much reduced due to the decreased water surface area. Although this study is site specific, the findings may have a wider applicability to the impacts of large-scale hydraulic structures on tidal dynamics in open-type bays.  相似文献   

11.
The Tsugaru Strait, which connects the Sea of Japan with the Pacific Ocean, is characterized by the eastward Tsugaru Warm Current (TWC) and oscillating tidal currents of similar magnitude. A 15-day current observation was conducted in one of the two narrow channels in the strait, at the northwest tip of the Shimokita Peninsula. The observation revealed that the spectral energy of the semidiurnal current exceeds that of the diurnal current, contrary to the conventional view. The Tsugaru Strait regional model was developed to study the mechanism of this spectral energy reversal (140–141.5° E, 40.4–42.6° N, 500?m grid resolution). At the eastern and western open boundaries, the model was driven by the constant Tsugaru warm current and tidal elevation, which was adjusted by comparing the model with tidal gauge observations within the channel. The relative magnitude of the spectral energies differed from that of the observation when the model was driven by tide only. However, the spectral energy levels were reversed when the model was driven by both tide and current. The nonlinear interaction of periodic tidal currents and the steady TWC was explained by the vorticity equation, which describes the production and advection of residual currents from tidal currents. According to the model results, flow separation and advection of vorticity by the TWC was the most prominent factor in this phenomenon. Because of the strong nonlinearities, flow separation around the headland occurred during the tidal period with dominant current magnitude and furnished the main difference between the diurnal and semidiurnal interactions. These phenomena were enhanced by the complex topography, and demonstrate the importance of scale interaction, especially when developing high-resolution regional models.  相似文献   

12.
The bed of estuaries is often characterized by ripples and dunes of varying size. Whereas smaller bedforms adapt their morphological shape to the oscillating tidal currents, large compound dunes (here: asymmetric tidal dunes) remain stable for periods longer than a tidal cycle. Bedforms constitute a form roughness, that is, hydraulic flow resistance, which has a large-scale effect on tidal asymmetry and, hence, on hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and morphodynamics of estuaries and coastal seas. Flow separation behind the dune crest and recirculation on the steep downstream side result in turbulence and energy loss. Since the energy dissipation can be related to the dune lee slope angle, asymmetric dune shapes induce variable flow resistance during ebb and flood phases. Here, a noncalibrated numerical model has been applied to analyze the large-scale effect of symmetric and asymmetric dune shapes on estuarine tidal asymmetry evaluated by residual bed load sediment transport at the Weser estuary, Germany. Scenario simulations were performed with parameterized bed roughness of symmetric and asymmetric dune shapes and without dune roughness. The spatiotemporal interaction of distinct dune shapes with the main drivers of estuarine sediment and morphodynamics, that is, river discharge and tidal energy, is shown to be complex but substantial. The contrasting effects of flood- and ebb-oriented asymmetric dunes on residual bed load transport rates and directions are estimated to be of a similar importance as the controls of seasonal changes of discharge on these net sediment fluxes at the Lower Weser estuary. This corroborates the need to consider dune-induced directional bed roughness in numerical models of estuarine and tidal environments.  相似文献   

13.
Tidal and residual currents in the Bransfield Strait,Antarctica   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
During the 1992–1993 oceanographic cruise of the Spanish R/V Hespérides, recording equipment was deployed in the Bransfield Strait. Six Aanderaa RCM7 current meters and three Aanderaa WLR7 tide gauges were successfully recovered after an operation period of 2.5 months. Relevant features of the time series obtained are presented and discussed in this paper. The emphasis is placed on the tidal character of the currents and the relative importance of tidal flow in the general hydrodynamics of the strait. For these purposes a dense grid of hydrographic stations, completed during the BIOANTAR 93 cruise, is used. Preliminary geostrophic calculations relative to a 400 m depth, yield current velocities of around 0.20 m s−1 in the study area, whereas the magnitude of tidal currents is seen to be 0.30-0.40 m s−1.  相似文献   

14.
Contemporary hydrodynamics and morphological change are examined in a shallow microtidal estuary, located on a wave-dominated coast (Port Stephens, NSW, Australia). Process-based numerical modelling is undertaken by combining modules for hydrodynamics, waves, sediment transport and bathymetry updates. Model results suggest that the complex estuarine bathymetry and geometry give rise to spatial variations in the tidal currents and a marked asymmetry between ebb and flood flows. Sediment transport paths correspond with tidal asymmetry patterns. The SE storms significantly enhance the quantities of sediment transport, while locally generated waves by the westerly strong winds also are capable of causing sediment entrainment and contribute to the delta morphological change. The wave/wind-induced currents are not uniform with flow over shoals driven in the same direction as waves/winds while a reverse flow occurring in the adjacent channel. The conceptual sediment transport model developed in this study shows flood-directed transport occurs on the flood ramp while ebb-directed net transport occurs in the tidal channels and at the estuary entrance. Accretion of the intertidal sand shoals and deepening of tidal channels, as revealed by the model, suggest that sediment-infilling becomes advanced, which may lead to an ebb-dominated estuary. It is likely that a switch from flood- to ebb-dominance occurs during the estuary evolution, and the present-day estuary acts as a sediment source rather than sediment sink to the coastal system. This is conflictive to the expectation drawn from the estuarine morphology; however, it is consistent with previous research suggesting that, in an infilling estuary, an increase in build-up of intertidal flats/shoals can eventually shift an estuary towards ebb dominance. Thus, field data are needed to validate the result presented here, and further study is required to investigate a variety of estuaries in the Australian area.  相似文献   

15.
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16.
Two very high-frequency radars (VHFR) operating on the Opal coast of eastern English Channel provided a nearly continuous 35-day long dataset of surface currents over a 500 km2 area at 0.6–1.8 km resolution. Argo drifter tracking and CTD soundings complemented the VHFR observations, which extended approximately 25 km offshore. The radar data resolve three basic modes of the surface velocity variation in the area, that are driven by tides, winds and freshwater fluxes associated with seasonal river discharge. The first mode, accounting for 90% of variability, is characterized by an along-shore flow pattern, whereas the second and third modes exhibit cross-shore, and eddy-like structures in the current velocity field. All the three modes show the dominant semi-diurnal variability and low-frequency modulation by the neap-spring tidal cycle. Although tidal forcing provides the major contribution to variability of local currents, baroclinicity plays an important role in shaping the 3D velocity field averaged over the tidal cycle and may strongly affect tracer dynamics on larger time scales. An empirical orthogonal function (EOF) decomposition and a spectral rotary analysis of the VHFR data reveal a discontinuity in the velocity field occurring approximately 10 km offshore which was caused by the reversal in the sign of rotation of the current vector. This feature of local circulation is responsible for surface current convergence on ebb, divergence on flood and strong oscillatory vertical motion. Spectral analysis of the observed currents and the results of the Agro drifter tracking indicate that the line of convergence approximately follows the 30-m isobath. The most pronounced feature of the radar-derived residual circulation is the along-coast intensification of surface currents with velocity magnitude of 0.25 m/s typical for the Regions of Freshwater Influence (ROFI). The analysis has provided a useful, exploratory examination of surface currents, suggesting that the circulation off the Opal coast is governed by ROFI dynamics on the hypertidal background.  相似文献   

17.
Abstract

Results are presented of calculations on the generation of residual vorticity by tidal currents over the bottom topography of the Southern Bight of the North Sea. A typical order of magnitude is 10?6 to 10?7 s ?1. This is compared with current measurements on calm days, when similar magnitudes are found. At windspeeds less than about 5 m/s tidal generation of residual vorticity is important; at higher windspeeds wind effects begin to dominate. Our results are relevant in understanding the spatial variability of residual currents, because a non-zero vorticity implies the existence of horizontal gradients in the residual current field.  相似文献   

18.
Sedimentary architecture and genesis of residual dune ridges in a temperate climate are presented and implications for their use as archive of changes in long-term precipitation and wind climate are discussed. Residual dunes are common features of wet aeolian systems, where they form sets of shallow ridges, oriented perpendicular to the prevailing wind direction. Residual dune ridges of the study area are vegetated and typically elevate 0.6 to 2.5 m above the surrounding interdune flats. They develop on the lower stoss side of active transgressive dunes, triggered by periods of elevated groundwater table and hence colonization of the foot of the dune by rapid growing pioneer vegetation. Stabilized by plants, the growing ridge detaches from the active transgressive dune and gets abandoned within years in the course of the downwind-migration of the transgressive dune. Grain-size data suggest a main sediment supply from the transgressive dune and only minor input from other sources. Ground-penetrating radar reveals that the residual dune ridges are composed of windward-dipping as well as leeward-dipping sedimentary beds. Leeward-dipping strata reflect sediment supply from the parental dune, whereas windward-dipping beds are seen to result from sediment redistribution along the ridge and sediment supply from the adjacent swales during the ridge growth period. Multi-annual to multi-decadal variability in precipitation leads to the development of sequences composed of tens of ridges, spanning time periods of several centuries. Spacing of individual ridges in these sequences is controlled not by long-term variability in precipitation alone, but probably also reflects variable wind intensity which affects the migration rate of the parental dune. The important role of vegetation in ridge construction makes these landforms a demonstrative example of landscape development by geo-biosphere interacting processes.  相似文献   

19.
Summary With a view of understanding the various processes responsible for the deposition of sand in the vicinity of Kakinada Bay and Godavari Point, an intensive study of currents in the coastal waters has been made using floats. The circulation has high variability in both magnitude and direction related to the three current components namely wind currents, tidal currents and wave currents. The circulation pattern rapidly changes with the change in the phase of the tide and local winds of land and see breeze. The littoral currents directed up-coast during premonsoon and monsoon seasons have insignificant effect across the bay opening due to the sheltering effect of the sand bar. The study is found helpful for understanding the geomorphological changes of the shoreline in this region from time to time.  相似文献   

20.
High-frequency (HF) radar observations of surface currents were conducted for 3 months during summer 2002 in the Keum River estuary. A comparison between HF radar-derived currents and directly measured ones form a buoy showed that the regression slope is close to 1 and the correlation coefficient greater than 0.86, with an RMS difference less than 13 cm/s which is less than 17% of the tidal current. This fairly good agreement allows us to use HF radar observation in investigating the surface flow and circulation in this tidal-current-dominant coastal-plume area. To examine the spatial variation in tidal current characteristics, as well as currents associated with non-tidal forcing, the HF radar-derived currents were separated into tidal and sub-tidal frequency currents. The overall pattern of M2-current ellipse distribution in the study area showed a counterclockwise rotation, with the offshore maximum current direction to the northeast. Eccentricity, the direction of maximum current, and the phase of net motion of the ellipse changed near the estuary mouth and near the gap of the Saemangeum reclamation tide dyke due to the complex coastal geometry and the out-flowing jet during the ebb period.  相似文献   

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