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1.
风暴是造成海滩剧烈变化的重要因子。由于观测环境的恶劣，目前极少有风暴过程中海滩响应的现场高频观测工作。本研究在2018年台风“贝碧嘉”期间对徐闻青安湾海滩开展了历时6天半的高频观测，获得了全时水动力要素和164组逐时海滩滩面高程变化数据。通过分析表明:(1)青安湾海域风暴增水及波浪受控于海南岛?雷州半岛特有的地形地貌和台风“贝碧嘉”的多变路径，增水稳定在0.38～0.5 m之间，而波高先由0.78 m衰减至0.43 m，再增加至0.56 m；(2)海滩剖面地形变化总体表现为滩肩侵蚀，形成水下沙坝，滩肩响应过程分为快速向下侵蚀、缓慢侵蚀至最大值、振荡回淤恢复3个阶段，台风期间滩肩振荡恢复幅度可达最大侵蚀深度的1/4；(3)海滩的风暴响应过程主要由4个模态耦合而成:第一模态体现大潮滩肩侵蚀生成水下沙坝过程；第二模态体现风暴滩肩侵蚀，补偿大潮滩肩侵蚀位置和进一步促进沙坝形成过程；第三模态揭示了波浪二次破碎位置的上冲流和离岸底流使泥沙发生双向输移过程；第四模态表明台风大浪使得碎波带内泥沙大量悬浮，在沿岸流和离岸流作用下部分悬沙进入深水区，可能造成海滩泥沙的永久亏损。 相似文献
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砂质海滩剖面形态受到泥沙粒径、海洋动力的影响。自然或人工海滩一般由粒径不同的级配泥沙组成,其海滩剖面形态应与海滩砂的级配有关。本文用不同粒径和级配的砂铺设海滩,进行了不同波浪动力作用下滩形形成的水槽试验,探究海滩剖面与波浪动力、泥沙粒径以及级配之间的关系。结果表明:波高越大越容易形成沙坝型剖面,波高越小越容易形成滩肩型剖面,沙床粒径越细,泥沙横向输移量越大,沙坝宽度越大,沙坝位置更为向海,滩肩更为向岸;波周期越大,滩肩位置越容易淤积;级配沙床中,对沙坝形态起主要影响作用的为粗颗粒泥沙。试验得到的水下沙坝形态参数奎利根比并非已有研究给出的定值,与泥沙组成和波参数有关。 相似文献
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砂质海滩的泥沙具有一定的级配,在波浪作用下,滩面泥沙粒径将发生分选,引起海滩质量变化。在水槽中用不同波高和周期的波浪分别对不同级配的沙滩进行作用,探究滩面在波浪外动力作用下的变化规律。结果表明:全级配沙滩在相同波高波浪作用下形成的沙坝型海滩滩型中,破波点向海的区域表层泥沙分选会随波浪周期增大变差;相同周期(T=1.68s)波浪作用下,全级配沙滩在大波高(H=13.2cm)和小波高(H=6.7cm)的波浪作用下分别形成沙坝型和滩肩型海滩,滩面泥沙分选变好;原始沙滩级配与滩面泥沙变化密切相关,同种波浪动力作用下,中细、粗中沙滩沙坝表层泥沙迎波面粗于背波面,粗细沙滩粗颗粒集中在沙坝和滩顶之间。 相似文献
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热带气旋前进方向两侧海滩风暴效应差异研究--以海滩对0307号台风"伊布都"的响应为例 总被引：11，自引：0，他引：11
在0307号台风“伊布都”(Imbudo)袭击华南沿海前后,对相距约300km的高栏岛飞沙湾(位于气旋前进方向右侧)和水东港下大海(位于气旋前进方向左侧)的固定海滩剖面地形及滩面沉积物进行了对比调查。调查结果表明,右侧海滩地形受台风暴浪冲击发生剧烈变化：后滨陆侧堆积,后滨向海侧及前滨滩面侵蚀(单宽侵蚀量达55m^3／m,平均海面(MSL)位置蚀退13m,岸线位置蚀退5m),以致剖面类型由滩肩式断面向沙坝式断面转变,表现出了海滩对台风做出快速响应;而左侧海滩剖面地形基本保持原状,虽也略呈侵蚀,但冲淤变化不大,表现为对台风做出迟缓响应。同时,从动力、滨海输沙、滩面沉积物变化和海岸地貌等方面对两侧海滩明显差异的风暴效应的机制进行了探讨。 相似文献
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海南岛东北部海滩侵蚀与恢复对连续台风的复杂响应 总被引：5，自引：3，他引：2
在连续台风作用下海滩的侵蚀与恢复是一个复杂的过程。基于海南岛东北部木兰-抱虎湾海滩的现场调查,对比分析台风"威马逊"和"海鸥"登陆前后海滩剖面和后滨沉积物的动态响应。结果表明,超强台风"威马逊"引起海滩的严重侵蚀和强烈的泥沙输移,在木兰湾海滩主要表现出由北向南沿岸海滩的差异性变化,在抱虎湾各海滩变化较为相近;后继登陆台风"海鸥"引起海滩显著堆积,对海滩主要起恢复作用,木兰湾海滩恢复效果明显,海滩后滨沉积物趋于恢复至台风前的状态,由于抱虎湾水下珊瑚礁及近岸岩礁地貌减缓了台风对该处海滩的侵蚀和堆积作用,抱虎湾海滩表现出与台风前较大差异性。两处海湾海滩的不同走向及台风的风向变化也是造成海滩不同响应的重要原因。研究将有助于更好地理解海滩对连续台风作用的复杂响应。 相似文献
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极端高能事件影响下的海滩动力地貌过程直接关乎岸滩稳定及海堤安全。本文基于2020年16号台风“浪卡”前后北海银滩顺直岸段的剖面高程及表层沉积物等资料, 探究了中等潮差的顺直响应台风作用的地貌变化机制。结果表明: 1) 台风后海滩地貌表现为冲流带的大型沙坝消失, 后滨沙丘-滩槽体系被削平, 滩面坡度趋于平缓。2) 银滩沉积物均以中砂、细砂和极细砂为主, 三者占比超过95%; 台风后, 高潮位带沉积物变细, 低潮位带沉积物变粗, 沙坝附近则出现粗细交错式变化; 银滩中高潮位带滩面响应台风过程的特征与强潮型海滩相似, 呈现消散型海滩的特征, 而低潮位带滩面则因大型沙坝的作用而呈现弱潮型海滩特征。3) 台风期间波浪是影响海滩的主要动力因素, 海滩地形影响了近岸水动力的表现形式, 从而改变了沉积物的粒径分布。 相似文献
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研究台风影响下的海滩沉积过程不仅可加深极端海况下的海滩冲淤变化理解,而且有利于海滩资源的保护与海岸工程保护。以强潮海滩——北海银滩为例,通过采集北部湾海区1409号威马逊超强台风作用前后的沉积物、剖面高程及水文资料,探讨强潮海滩的动力沉积过程。结果表明:1)台风作用前后的海滩沙丘-滩肩-沙坝体系的地貌状态基本不变,其中沉积物组分均为砂,细砂、极细砂和中砂三组分平均含量占所有组分的95%以上;与台风作用前比较,台风后的地貌在维持先前形态的条件下,发生局部侵蚀和后退,沉积物相对变粗且细砂含量增加了10%。2)台风作用后后滨沙丘侵蚀,且沉积物滚动组分增加;冲流带和滩肩前缘沉积物的搬运由双跳跃转为单一的跳跃形式。3)台风作用前后的海滩沉积物主要变化过程可由两个模态表征,其中主要模式反映了台风作用前后的海滩以细砂为主的动力沉积变化特征,该模式受控于区域波浪和潮汐的长期耦合作用,并以波浪为主导因素。台风作用前的次要模式反映潮汐作用控制下的海滩沉积横向振荡特征;台风作用后的次要模式表征了台风影响下的海滩横向沉积物偏粗、冲流带-低潮带振荡及其沉积分异过程。 相似文献
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台风影响下海滩前滨剖面时间变化差异性分析 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
利用2006年8月2日至16日0606号台风“派比安”和0609号强热带风暴“宝霞”影响期间于粤东后江湾中部海滩前滨设置的地形剖面6个固定观测桩点上连续318小时的逐时高度观测值，基于一维最优小波包变换方法，分析了极端波况影响下前滨剖面不同高度固定点的时间变化特征，主要结果为：（1）位于剖面冲流作用上部的桩点1、2时间变化过程以2—5天的周期为主，反映了台风作用前后剖面的波动过程；（2）位于剖面中下部的4个桩点高度显示了2—4小时的周期性变化，进一步显示出台风影响期间短时高能侵蚀作用导致的剖面地形迅速调整，以及台风后潮汐周日变动对滩面地形的影响；（3）各桩点高频尺度的突变时间点反映出了台风暴潮增水作用和碎波带沙坝进退引起剖面的蚀积变化；（4）各桩点地形高度的低频变化显示出台风后海滩剖面朝向堆积和恢复的趋势。 相似文献
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海滩地形变化是复杂的地形动力过程作用的结果,包含着诸多的时间和空间尺度特征信息。本研究利用经验正交函数（Empirical Orthogonal Function, EOF）,对2018年4月至2019年3月的琼州海峡南岸铺前湾、海口湾和澄迈湾海滩剖面数据进行了分析。结果表明：①前3个时空函数可以代表琼州海峡南岸海滩主要变化模态。其中第1模态都表现为淤积,铺前湾和海口湾海滩呈现夏秋淤 冬春冲的季节性特征,澄迈湾为夏秋冲 冬春淤的季节性特征。第2、3模态则可能是风暴作用、潮位影响下的沉积物在滩面上的迁移或波浪随潮位变化引起,与海湾区域地形、入射波向、泥沙来源、潮差、波高、风暴路径等有关。②铺前湾和海口湾海域建设的人工岛加剧了海湾的遮蔽程度,促进了海湾部分岸段海滩淤积,海滩还要一段时间才能达到新的平衡。③作为次控因素之一,观测期间台风对海滩的影响程度有限。同时,海滩对台风响应与台风强度、登陆距离、相对台风的方位以及当地地形遮蔽程度密切相关。 相似文献
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The morphology, bedforms and hydrodynamics of Merlimont beach, in northern France, characterised by intertidal bars and a spring tidal range of 8.3 m, were surveyed over a 10-day experiment with variable wave conditions that included a 2-day storm with significant wave heights of up to 2.8 m. The beach exhibited two pronounced bar-trough systems located between the mean sea level and low neap tide level. Waves showed a cross-shore depth modulation, attaining maximum heights at high tide. The mean current was characterised dominantly by strong tide-induced longshore flows significantly reinforced by wind forcing during the storm, and by weaker, dominantly offshore, wave-induced flows. Vertical tidal water-level variations (tidal excursion rates) showed a bimodal distribution with a peak towards the mid-tide position and low rates near low and high water. The two bar-trough systems in the mid-tide zone remained stable in position during the experiment but showed significant local change. The absence of bar migration in spite of the relatively energetic context of this beach reflects high macro-scale bar morphological lag due to a combination of the large vertical tidal excursion rates in the mid-tide zone, the cross-shore wave structure, and the pronounced dual bar-trough system. The profile exhibited a highly variable pattern of local morphological change that showed poor correlation with wave energy levels and tidal excursion rates. Profile change reflected marked local morphodynamic feedback effects due mainly to breaks in slope associated with the bar-trough topography and with trough activity. Change was as important during low wave-energy conditions as during the storm. Strong flows in the entrenched troughs hindered cross-shore bar mobility while inducing longshore migration of medium-sized bedforms that contributed in generating short-term profile change. The large size and location of the two pronounced bars in the mid-tide zone of the beach are tentatively attributed respectively to the relatively high wave-energy levels affecting Merlimont beach, and to the cross-shore increase in wave height hinged on tidal modulation of water depths. These two large quasi-permanent bars probably originated as essentially breakpoint bars and are different from a small bar formed by swash and surf processes in the course of the experiment at the mean high water neap tide level, which is characterised by a certain degree of tidal stationarity and larger high-tide waves. 相似文献
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《Marine Geology》2004,203(1-2):109-118
Spatial variations in sediment load in the swash uprush and textural properties of sediment in transport were evaluated to investigate the mechanisms responsible for sediment transport during wave uprush. Four streamer traps were deployed at 2.0-m intervals across the swash zone of a sheltered, microtidal sandy beach at Port Beach, Western Australia, over a 4-day period. During these trapping experiments, offshore significant wave heights were 0.3–0.5 m and wave periods were about 10 s. The average width of the uprush zone was 6.9 m and the average uprush duration was 5.9 s. Cross-shore distributions of sediment load for 70 uprush events reveal a maximum in sediment load landward of the base of the swash (at about 20% of swash width) during single events and a maximum closer to mid-swash (at about 40% of swash width) during multiple events characterized by swash interactions. Settling velocity distributions of trap samples during individual uprush events are similar to distributions found on the beach surface, with the lowest settling velocities (finest sediments) near the base of the swash zone and maximum settling velocities (coarsest sediments) around the mid-swash position. It was found that sediment transport during wave uprush occurs through two distinct mechanisms: (1) sediment entrainment during bore collapse seaward of the base of the swash zone and subsequent advection of this bore-entrained sediment up the beach by wave uprush; and (2) in situ sediment entrainment and transport induced by local shear stresses during wave uprush. Both mechanisms are considered important, but the first mechanism is considered most significant during the early stages of wave uprush when sediment is transported mainly in suspension, while the second mechanism is likely to dominate the mid- to later stages of wave uprush when sediment is transported mainly by sheet flow. The relative importance of the two mechanisms will vary between different beaches with the morphodynamic state of the beach (reflective versus dissipative) expected to play a major role. 相似文献
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Morphodynamics of a bar-trough surf zone 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
A field study was made of the distinguishing morphodynamic processes operating in a surf zone which perennially exhibits accentuated bar-trough topography (the “longshore-bar-trough” and “rhytmic-bar-and-beach” states as described by Wright and Short, 1984). Characteristic features of the morphology include a shallow bar with a steep shoreward face, a deep trough, and a steep beach face. This morphology, which is favored by moderate breaker heights and small tidal ranges, strongly controls the coupled suite of hydrodynamic processes. In contrast to fully dissipative surf zones, the bar-trough surf zone is not at all saturated and oscillations at incident wave frequency remain dominant from the break point to the subaerial beach. The degree of incident wave groupiness does not change appreciably across the surf zone. Infragravity standing waves which, in dissipative surf zones, dominate the inshore energy, remain energetically secondary and occur at higher frequencies in the bar trough surf zone. Analyses of the field data combined with numerical simulations of leaky mode and edge wave nodal—antinodal positions over observed surf-zone profiles, indicate that the frequencies which prevail are favored by the resonant condition of antinodes over the bar and nodes in the trough. Standing waves which would have nodes over the bar are suppressed. Sediment resuspension in the surf zone appears to be largely attributable to the incident waves which are the main source of bed shear stress. In addition, the extra near-bottom eddy viscosity provided by the reformed, non-breaking waves traversing the trough significantly affects the vertical velocity profile of the longshore current. Whereas the bar is highly mobile in terms of onshore—offshore migration rates, the beach face and inner regions of the trough are remarkably stable over time. 相似文献
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This paper builds on the work of Masselink [Masselink, G., 1993. Simulating the effects of tides on beach morphodynamics. J. Coast. Res. SI 15, 180–197.] on the use of the residence times of shoaling waves, breaking waves and swash/backwash motions across a cross-shore profile to qualitatively understand temporal beach behaviour. We use a data set of in-situ measurements of wave parameters (height and period) and water depth, and time-exposure video images overlooking our single-barred intertidal measurement array at Egmond aan Zee (Netherlands) to derive boundaries between the shoaling zone, the surf zone and the swash zone. We find that the boundaries are functional dependencies of the local relative wave height on the local wave steepness. This contrasts with the use of constant relative wave heights or water levels in earlier work. We use the obtained boundaries and a standard cross-shore wave transformation model coupled to an inner surf zone bore model to show that large (> 5) relative tide ranges (RTR, defined as the ratio tide range–wave height) indicate shoaling wave processes across almost the entire intertidal profile, with surf processes dominating on the beach face. When the RTR is between 2 and 5, surf processes dominate over the intertidal bar and the lower part of the beach face, while swash has the largest residence times on the upper beach face. Such conditions, associated with surf zone bores propagating across the bar around low tide, were observed to cause the intertidal bar to migrate onshore slowly and the upper beach face to steepen. For RTR values less than about 2, surf zone processes dominate across the intertidal bar, while the dominance of swash processes now extends across most of the beach face. The surf zone processes were now observed to lead to offshore bar migration, while the swash eroded the upper beach face. 相似文献
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《Coastal Engineering》2002,47(1):53-75
The mechanism responsible for the ubiquitous presence of convex beach profiles and shoreward migration of linear bars is examined using numerical circulation and sediment transport models. The models are validated against laboratory measurements and observed natural beach cross-sections. While not discounting the importance of infragravity and advective horizontal circulation or bed-return flow mechanisms, a robust diffusive process explains the convex profile shape and bar formation. In the presence of concentration gradients across the surf zone, a diffusive sediment flux from high to low concentration results in the transfer of sediment outwards from the breakpoint, both onshore and offshore, and the subsequent formation of a “diffusion bar” and “diffusion profile”. The profiles are characterised by single- and double-convex dome-like shapes, developing during shoreward migration of the bars by the diffusion mechanism. The mechanism explains several phenomena observed on natural beaches, including (i) convex beach profiles; (ii) shoreward migration of the bar with concomitant beach accretion under narrow-band swell; (iii) reduced propensity for bar formation on low-gradient, fine-sand beaches or under wide-band wave spectra (even though multiple bars are common on some low-gradient beaches) and (iv) offshore migration of the bar during periods of increasing wave height. The diffusion mechanism can be dependent on orbital motion alone and, as such, requires no frequency selection or strong correlation between multiple processes for bar formation. 相似文献
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海滩近岸带中尺度地形动力过程是海岸海洋科学研究的重要研究内容之一.近20年来该领域发展较快,取得了一些重要的成果.对近岸带中尺度地形动力过程的碎波带地形与沙坝、冲流带地形与滩角、海滩风暴响应、观测技术手段等主要领域的进展进行了总结和评述,并对我国海滩研究提出要从加强观测手段和制定长期观测计划两方面来加强的建议. 相似文献
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华南水东湾波控、中等潮差岬湾海滩地形动力分类 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
海滩地形动力分类在国外的海岸地貌研究中已经被广泛接受。本文使用了华南粤西水东湾切线带、过渡带和遮蔽带海滩连续16个月32次大潮期间同步获取的波浪、潮汐、泥沙和海滩地形数据,分别按照无量纲沉降参数、相对潮差参数和无量纲海湾尺度参数对这一岬湾海滩不同岸段的海滩类型进行了研究,研究发现：（1）水东湾切线带海滩的主要状态为有裂流的低潮台地状态和沙坝型海滩状态,过渡带海滩主要状态是低潮沙坝/裂流海滩和沙坝消散型状态,遮蔽带海滩主要状态是有或无沙坝的消散型状态;（2）海湾不同岸段海滩状态的顺序变化与差异体现了岬湾海滩状态的时空变化性,与现场观测的海滩地形的变化基本一致,说明了对波控中到强潮海滩进行研究时,需要考虑潮汐的影响。同时,本文主要给出了海滩状态研究的一个框架体系,由于海滩不同的状态伴随不同的侵蚀模式,要求我国今后需加强在这一方面研究,以进一步丰富我国海滩地形演变、海滩地形动力过程和海滩防侵蚀的理论基础。 相似文献