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越洋海啸会受大洋海脊的引导以俘获波的形式沿其传播上万千米,其携带的巨大能量会严重影响远场地区、威胁海岸地区的安全。本文基于MIKE21-BW模型,分别模拟0°(直海脊)至90°(直角弯曲海脊)不同弯曲角度海脊上俘获波的传播变形过程,并定量比较其能量分配。结果表明,海脊俘获波传至海脊转弯处,少部分能量会泄露出海脊重新以自由波的形式扩散至整个海域;部分能量会被反射回来形成与初始海啸波相反方向的俘获波沿海脊传播,反射的能量会随着海脊弯曲角度的增加而增加;还有一部分能量继续沿着弯曲的海脊向前传播,其随着海脊弯曲的角度增加而减小。 相似文献
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越洋海啸能够被大洋海脊引导并沿海脊传播至远场地区,虽然传播速度较慢,但携带较大的能量,会对远场地区造成灾害影响,相关研究对于提高海啸传播特性本质的认识具有重要意义。本文基于线性长波方程,推导出了抛物型对称海脊引导波完整解析理论。研究表明对称型海脊同时存在对称与反对称引导波,其自由水面波动可以表示为虚宗量Bessel函数形式。利用海脊中心对称条件给出了描述其频率与波数的频散关系。基于所提理论进一步分析讨论了引导波的运动特性,包括频散关系、波速度、能量传播速度与波面空间分布等。本研究为揭示地形坡度由脊顶至两侧逐渐增加的海脊引导波运动特征,预测实际越洋海啸中最具威胁性海啸波的到达时间提供了理论依据。 相似文献
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珊瑚岛礁海岸波流动力复杂、地貌形态特殊、工程响应未知, 波浪传播变形和波生环流对建筑物安全、地形地貌演变、防灾减灾和生态环境保护都有重要影响。本文从大范围大洋海脊导波与岛礁波浪俘获、中等尺度的礁坪-潟湖-裂口系统波流特性、建筑物前沿的局部波流特性及工程响应等三种不同空间尺度上综述了波流运动特性研究的新进展, 主要包括深水大范围的海脊波浪引导与岛礁波浪俘获的理论解析、礁坪-潟湖-裂口系统整体物理模型实验、基于大水槽实验的建筑物影响下波流演化过程及越浪量和波浪力计算方法, 并提出亟需深入研究的重点内容。 相似文献
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本文基于真实地形、潮汐的高分辨率三维MITgcm海洋环流模式，对南海北部a波（大振幅波列形式）和b波（孤立子形式）的生成与传播特征进行了数值研究。首先，我们总结和分析了这些波动的生成与传播特征。然后我们计算了吕宋海峡的能量收支。能量的生成在一天内有三个极大值，其中最大值对应a波的生成。吕宋海峡西边界的能通量一天内有两个极大值，较大的那个对应a波的生成而另一个对应b波的生成。我们设计了敏感性试验来探究吕宋海峡东西海脊对a、b波的生成和传播造成的影响。通过对比敏感性实验和标准试验的结果，发现对于a波的生成东海脊必不可少，但西海脊几乎没有影响。西海脊削弱了a波的振幅但未对a波波速造成明显的影响。b波来自于从东海脊生成的扰动信号。西海脊加强了这个扰动信号但减慢了它的传播速度。 相似文献
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基于非静压单相流模型NHWAVE建立了高精度二维数值波浪水槽,采用日本2011年实测真实海啸波型系统研究了海啸波在岛礁上传播变形的规律,并且分析了波高、礁坪淹没水深和礁前斜坡坡度等因素对孤立波和真实海啸传播变形的影响。结果表明,相比孤立波,类海啸波的波长明显大于孤立波波长,在测点处引起的水面变化持续时间更长,同等波高情况下真实海啸波型比孤立波能够携带更多的能量,与岛礁的相互作用也更为复杂,在礁坪上形成的淹没水深约为孤立波的两倍。礁前斜坡坡度和礁坪淹没水深均对类海啸波的反射和透射系数有显著影响。随着礁前斜坡坡度的增加,反射系数和透射系数均逐渐增加。随着礁坪淹没水深的增加,反射系数逐渐减小,而透射系数逐渐增大。但是,反射系数和透射系数均随着入射波高的增加而逐渐减小。 相似文献
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应用内外解匹配的方法和驻相法推导了柱坐标系下地震引起的水面波动方程的解,即推导了地震海啸波生成与传播的理论方程,并对越洋地震海啸理论方程进行了求解。基于Boussinesq方程出发,建立了二维越洋海啸波传播数学模型,并对越洋海啸进行了数值计算,计算方法采用有限差分方法,差分格式采用交替方向隐格式(Alternating Direction Implicit即ADI方法)。利用越洋海啸计算模式对发生在大洋中的地震海啸进行了模拟,将数值模拟结果与地震海啸波理论方程的计算结果进行了比较,两种计算结果吻合较好。 相似文献
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Based on the linear shallow water equations,an analytic solution of trapped waves over a symmetric parabolicprofile submerged ridge is derived.The trapped waves act as propagating waves along the ridge and as standing waves across the ridge.The amplitude gets the maximum at the ridge top and decays gradually towards both sides.The decaying rate gets more gently with higher modes.Besides,an explicit first-order approximate dispersion relation is derived to simplify transcendental functions in the exact solution,which is useful to describe trapped waves over shallowly submerged ridges in reality.Furthermore,the trapping mechanism of the submerged ridge waveguides on the trans-oceanic tsunami propagation can be explained by the ray theory.A critical incident angle exists as a criterion to determine whether the wave is trapped.Besides,a trapped parameter γ is proposed to estimate the ratio of the energy trapped by the oceanic ridge if a tsunami is generated at its top. 相似文献
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受全球气候变化的影响,极区海浪尤其是北极海浪在过去几十年发生了显著的变化,使得海冰边缘区海冰与海浪的相互作用愈发显著。本文从物理海洋学的角度出发,较系统地总结了海冰对海浪作用研究的国内外现状,从理论和实测的角度分别探讨了海冰对海浪能量的耗散及其引起的波动频散关系的变化,同时分析了当前海冰覆盖海域海浪的数值模拟与现场观测研究,指出了未来开展有冰海域海浪数值模拟与预报所面临的主要问题,并对该方向今后的研究做出展望。总体来看,尽管海冰对海浪作用的机理复杂且与海冰类型高度相关,但是海冰对海浪能量的衰减与传播距离基本呈指数关系,并且海冰会一定程度上影响海浪的传播速度。未来依然需要更多不同海冰类型下海浪的观测数据以开展进一步的机理分析、模型检验和参数校准,进而实现高精度的业务化预报。 相似文献
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In this paper we investigate the propagation of tsunamis generated by landslides around the coast of an island to understand the propagation and trapping mechanisms of the waves. Records of shoreline displacement have been processed using the wavenumber–frequency analysis (k–f). We identify the dispersion relation followed by the waves that propagate alongshore. It appears that the 0th-order edge wave mode is the only one relevant for shoreline run-up. Furthermore, it is shown that the edge wave dispersion relation is a quantitative tool to estimate the phase and group wave celerities. A very good agreement is found when comparing the wave celerities as calculated from the experimental records, against those predicted by the edge wave theory. Furthermore the analysis of the tsunami around the island has been carried out by means of the two-dimensional k–f. Using as input data a high-space resolution dataset of free surface elevations it is found that other modes, both trapped (1st-order edge waves) and non-trapped (free radiating waves), occur during the propagation. 相似文献
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E. Wolanski P. Colin J. Naithani E. Deleersnijder Y. Golbuu 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2004,60(4):705-716
Three years of temperature data along two transects extending to 90 m depth, at Palau, Micronesia, show twice-a-day thermocline vertical displacements of commonly 50–100 m, and on one occasion 270 m. The internal wave occurred at a number of frequencies. There were a number of spectral peaks at diurnal and semi-diurnal frequencies, as well as intermediate and sub-inertial frequencies, less so at the inertial frequency. At Palau the waves generally did not travel around the island because there was no coherence between internal waves on either side of the island. The internal waves at a site 30 km offshore were out-of-phase with those on the island slopes, suggesting that the waves were generated on the island slope and then radiated away. Palau Island was thus a source of internal wave energy for the surrounding ocean. A numerical model suggests that the tidal and low-frequency currents flowing around the island form internal waves with maximum wave amplitude on the island slope and that these waves radiate away from the island. The model also suggests that the headland at the southern tip of Palau prevents the internal waves to rotate around the island. The large temperature fluctuations (commonly daily fluctuations ≈10 °C, peaking at 20 °C) appear responsible for generating a thermal stress responsible for a biologically depauperate biological community on the island slopes at depths between 60 and 120 m depth. 相似文献
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陆架波的性质如频散关系、形成机制等受地形影响。研究地形对陆架波的性质影响具有重要意义。基于陆架拦截波理论,数值计算了分段线性地形下不同宽度陆架上陆架拦截波的频散关系、长波假设下波动的相速度、阻尼情况下的波动耗散率以及强迫波的外力影响因子。分析了陆架宽度及坡度对自由及强迫陆架拦截波性质的影响。陆架宽度影响陆架拦截波的频散关系。陆架变宽,使得长波频散曲线的斜率增大。陆架宽度的增加使第一模态陆架拦截波有明显的性质变化:相速度增大,波动受辐散影响的程度变大,摩擦衰减距离增大,且风应力旋度在波动的生成机制中起到的作用渐强。在宽的陆架上,研究陆架拦截波的生成及强迫波的振幅时,应充分考虑风应力旋度的作用。第二、三模态波动的相速度受陆架坡度的影响较大,但摩擦衰减距离基本都在200km左右,几乎不随陆架宽度改变,属于局地波。 相似文献
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V. I. Mordvinov E. V. Devyatova O. S. Kochetkova O. A. Oznobikhina 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2013,49(1):55-65
Low-frequency disturbances responsible for the excitation of torsional oscillations—variations in the zonal mean flow intensity with a characteristic scale of 15–20 days—propagating along the meridian at mid and low latitudes of both hemispheres are investigated [1]. As data observed over the eastern parts of continents and the western parts of oceans are processed with the lag correlation statistics, traveling waves intersecting the eastern parts of continents from northwest to southeast and then returning to the north along the ocean coasts are identified. In this case, trains of anomalies oriented in the zonal direction periodically appear and are destructed in the western parts of continents. The simulation of the propagation of disturbances in the quasi-geostrophic approximation made it possible to explain the specific features of lag correlation statistics over continents by the dispersion of two-dimensional Rossby waves from traveling sources. The turnover of disturbances over Asia and wave trains to the west from the pole were reproduced. Torsional oscillations caused by the dispersion of two-dimensional Rossby waves have a characteristic form of inclined bands in the latitude-time diagram, whose steepness is controlled by the velocity of displacement of the vorticity source along the meridian. 相似文献
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A. K. Laing 《新西兰海洋与淡水研究杂志》2013,47(4):541-553
A model is described for hindcasting or forecasting waves in finite‐depth waters. The model is particularly applicable to coastal sites where the water is depth‐limited. The wave energy density spectrum is modelled in the frequency‐directional domain. For each spectral component a ray is defined along which wave energy propagates to reach the site. For sites exposed to the open ocean a background spectral wave model is required to provide input to the ray endpoints. Further growth and dissipation is then effected along the rays according to the local wind and water depth. The model was used to hindcast wave spectra over a period of 9 months for a site in the Canterbury Bight, New Zealand. The results were compared with measurements from a Waveridcr buoy at the site. The model succeeds in explaining about 40% of the variance in measured significant wave heights. However, the present application is handicapped by errors inherent in the background spectral model and in specifying the local wind. 相似文献