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1.
We study nonlinear three-wave interactions between edge waves propagating in the same direction over the shelf step. The conditions
of synchronism are determined and the coefficient of interaction is computed for the cases where the waves of the five lowest
modes participate in the interaction. The space-time dynamics is studied by analyzing, as an example, a single triad of edge
waves. The possibility of interaction of edge waves in the regions with actual topography is demonstrated.
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Translated from Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 3, pp. 3–19, May–June, 2008. 相似文献
2.
Recent field measurements on beaches of different slopes have established that wave motion at periods substantially longer than the incident waves dominates the velocity field close to the shore. Analysis of a number of extensive data sets shows that much of this long wave motion is in the form of progessive edge waves, though forced wave motion, standing edge waves and free waves propagating away from the shore may also contribute to the energy.Theoretically, the drift velocities in bottom boundary layers due to edge waves show spatial patterns of convergence and divergence which may move sediment to form either regular crescentic or cuspate features when only one edge wave mode dominates, or a bewildering array of bars, bumps and holes when several phase-locked modes exist together.Convincing field demonstration of the link between nearshore topography and edge waves only exists for the special case of small-scale beach cusps on steep beaches, formed by edge waves at the subharmonic (twice the period) of the incident waves. At longer periods the link is proving more difficult to establish, due to the longer time-scales of topographic changes, the interaction between pre-existing topography and the water motion, and the observation of broad-banded edge wave motion which is not readily linked to topography with a well-defined scale.These ideas are, however, central to the study of nearshore processes, as most of the plausible alternate hypotheses do not seem to lead to quantitative predictions. Clearly, further theoretical and observational work is essential. 相似文献
3.
The vertical mode method in the problems of flexural-gravity waves diffracted by a vertical cylinder
The linear three-dimensional problem of ice loads acting on a vertical circular cylinder frozen in an ice cover of infinite extent is studied. The loads are caused by an uni-directional hydroelastic wave propagating in the ice cover towards the cylinder mounted to the see bottom in water of constant depth. There are no open water surfaces in this problem. The deflection of the ice cover is described by the Bernoulli–Euler equation of a thin elastic plate of constant thickness. At the contact line between the ice cover and the surface of the cylinder, some edge conditions are imposed. In this study, the edge of the ice plate is either clamped to the cylinder or has no contact with the cylinder surface, with the plate edge being free of stresses and shear forces. The water is of finite constant depth, inviscid and incompressible. The problem is solved by both the vertical mode method and using the Weber integral transform in the radial coordinate. Each vertical mode corresponds to a root of the dispersion relation for flexural-gravity waves. It is proved that these two solutions are identical for the clamped edge conditions. This result is non-trivial because the vertical modes are non-orthogonal in a standard sense, they are linearly dependent, the roots of the dispersion relation can be double and even triple, and the set of the modes could be incomplete. A general solution of the wave-cylinder interaction problem is derived by the method of vertical modes and applied to different edge conditions on the contact line. There are three conditions of solvability in this problem. It is shown that these conditions are satisfied for any parameters of the problem. 相似文献
4.
声速剖面时空分布的获取是利用声学方法监测内波的核心问题。在反演算法中，声速剖面通常是采用展开的方式用若干个参数来表示的。这就导致了有时很难从反演结果中直接获得内波的相关信息。本文的目标是找到一种通过展开系数直接获取内波特性的方法。通过推导内波水动力方程，可以从较少的声速剖面样本中提取出水动力简正模态（Hydrodynamic Normal Modes，HNMs）作为声速剖面展开的正交基。较之广泛采用的正交经验函数（Empirical Orthogonal Functions, EOFs），HNMs直接与内波活动相关，具有更明确的物理含义。然后，基于HNMs对声速剖面的时间序列进行展开，获得展开系数。最后，从前两阶展开系数的时间导数中可以获取内波活动的信息。将方法应用于受内波影响而具有明显时空扰动的南海北陆架区温度链数据，结果表明：只用前两节模态就可以在较好的精度范围内重构声速剖面。前两阶系数的时间导数具有独特的双震荡结构可以用于探测内孤立波。从展开系数也可以获得幅度以及波长信息。理论推导和实验分析证明了本文方法在内波监测中的有效性。HNMs方法使用便利且对样本的依赖性较小，可以在内波活跃海域作为EOFs的有效补充用于声速剖面的展开。 相似文献
5.
The scattering of plane surface waves by bottom undulations in an ice-covered ocean modelled as a two-layer fluid consisting of a layer of fresh water of lesser density above a deep layer of salt water, is investigated here by using a simplified perturbation analysis. In such a two-layer fluid there exist waves of two different modes, one with higher mode propagates along the interface and the other with lower mode propagates along the ice-cover. An incident wave of a particular mode gets reflected and transmitted by the bottom undulations into waves of both the modes so that transfer of wave energy from one mode to another takes place. The first-order reflection and transmission coefficients of two different modes are obtained due to incident waves of again two different modes by employing Fourier transform technique in the mathematical analysis. For sinusoidal bottom topography these coefficients are depicted graphically against the wavenumber. These figures show how the transfer of energy from one mode to another takes place. 相似文献
6.
M. V. Kalashnik 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2018,54(2):109-113
The quasi-geostrophic dynamics of disturbances of a flow with a vertical shear is described by a transfer equation for potential vorticity. Wave solutions of this equation are represented by edge baroclinic waves (modes in a discrete spectrum) and singular modes in a continuous spectrum. When frequencies of these modes coincide, the effect of resonant excitation occurs in which the amplitude of baroclinic waves increases linearly. This paper studies this effect in the presence of Ekman bottom friction. It is shown that friction suppresses linear wave growth and gives rise to baroclinic waves of finite amplitude. 相似文献
7.
Based on the full water-wave equation,a second-order analytic solution for nonlinear interaction of short edge waves on a plane sloping bottom is presented in this paper.For special case of slope angle β=π/2,this solution can reduced to the same order solution of deep water gravity surface waves traveling along parallel coastline.Interactions between two edge waves including progressive,standing and partially reflected standing waves are also discussed.The unified analytic expressions with transfer functions for kinematic-dynamic elements of edge waves are also given.The random model of the unified wave motion processes for linear and nonlinear irregular edge waves is formulated,and the corresponding theoretical autocorrelation and spectral density functions of the first and the second orders are derived.The boundary conditions for the determination of the parameters of short edge wave are suggested,that may be seen as one special simple edge wave excitation mechanism and an extension to the sea wave refraction theory.Finally some computation results are demonstrated. 相似文献
8.
Based on the full water-wave equation, a second-order analytic solution for nonlinear interaction of short edge waves on a constant plane sloping bottom is presented in this paper. For special case of slope angle b=p/2, this solution can be reduced to the same order solution of deep water gravity surface waves traveling along parallel coastline. Interactions between two edge waves including progressive, standing and partially reflected standing waves were also discussed. The unified analytic expressions with transfer functions for kinematic-dynamic elements of edge waves were also discussed. The random model of the unified wave motion processes for linear and nonlinear irregular edge waves is formulated, and the corresponding theoretical autocorrelation and spectral density functions of the first and second orders are derived. The boundary conditions for the determining determination of the parameters of short edge wave are suggested, that may be seen as one special simple edge wave excitation mechanism and an extension to the sea wave refraction theory. Finally some computation results are demonstrated. 相似文献
9.
A computational case study of coupled-mode 400-Hz acoustic propagation over the distance 27 km on the continental shelf is presented. The mode coupling reported here is caused by lateral gradients of sound-speed within packets of nonlinear internal waves, often referred to as solitary wave packets. In a waveguide having unequal attenuation of modes, directional exchange of energy between low- and high-loss modes, via mode coupling, can become time dependent by the movement of waves and can cause temporally variable loss of acoustic energy into the bottom. Here, that bottom interaction effect is shown to be sensitive to stratification conditions, which determine waveguide properties and, in turn, determine modal attenuation coefficients. In particular, time-dependent energy loss due to the presence of moving internal wave packets is compared for waveguides with and without a frontal feature similar to that found at the shelfbreak south of New England. The mean and variability of acoustic energy level 27 km distant from a source are shown to be altered in a first order way by the presence of the frontal feature. The effects of the front are also shown to be functions of source depth. 相似文献
10.
The hydroelastic response of a semi-infinite thin elastic plate floating on a two-layer fluid of finite depth due to obliquely incident waves is investigated. The upper and lower fluids with different densities separated by a sharp and stable interface are assumed to be inviscid and incompressible and the motion to be irrotational. Simply time-harmonic incident waves of the surface and interfacial wave modes with a given angular frequency are considered within the framework of linear potential flow theory. With the aid of the methods of matched eigenfunction expansion and the inner product of the two-layer fluid, a closed system of simultaneous linear equations is derived for the reflection and transmission coefficients of the series solutions. Based on the dispersion relations for the gravity waves and the flexural–gravity waves in a two-layer fluid and Snell’s law for refraction, we obtain a critical angle for the incident waves of the surface wave mode and three critical angles for the incident waves of the interfacial wave mode, which are related to the existence of the propagating waves. Graphical representations of the series solutions show the interaction between the water waves and the plate. The effects of several physical parameters, including the density and depth ratios of the fluid and the thickness of the plate, on the wave scattering and the hydroelastic response of the plate are studied. It is found that the variation of the thickness of the plate may change the wave numbers and the critical angles. The density ratio is the main factor to influence the wave numbers of the interfacial wave modes. Finally, the stress state is considered. 相似文献
11.
Shigeaki Aoki 《Journal of Oceanography》1989,45(5):321-337
Transmission and reflection coefficients are calculated for Rossby waves incident on a bottom topography with constant slope in a continuously stratified ocean. The characteristics of the coefficients are interpreted in terms of the quasigeostrophic waves on the slope. In the parameter range where only the barotropic Rossby waves can propagate in the region outside the slope, the bottom trapped wave plays the same role as the topographic Rossby wave in a homogeneous ocean, and hence the transmission is weak unless phase matching takes place. When both of the barotropic and baroclinic Rossby waves can propagate outside the slope, the total transmission can be strong. The bottom trapped wave affects the transmission and reflection, and it leads to the possibility that the Rossby wave is transmitted as a mode different from the incident mode. When the number of the wavy modes on the slope is smaller than that of the Rossby wave modes outside the slope, strong reflection occurs.The results for an ocean with linear distribution of the squared Brunt-Väisälä frequency are compared to those in a uniformly stratified ocean. The weakening of the stratification near the bottom is almost equivalent to reducing the effect of the slope. 相似文献
12.
In this paper we investigate the propagation of tsunamis generated by landslides around the coast of an island to understand the propagation and trapping mechanisms of the waves. Records of shoreline displacement have been processed using the wavenumber–frequency analysis (k–f). We identify the dispersion relation followed by the waves that propagate alongshore. It appears that the 0th-order edge wave mode is the only one relevant for shoreline run-up. Furthermore, it is shown that the edge wave dispersion relation is a quantitative tool to estimate the phase and group wave celerities. A very good agreement is found when comparing the wave celerities as calculated from the experimental records, against those predicted by the edge wave theory. Furthermore the analysis of the tsunami around the island has been carried out by means of the two-dimensional k–f. Using as input data a high-space resolution dataset of free surface elevations it is found that other modes, both trapped (1st-order edge waves) and non-trapped (free radiating waves), occur during the propagation. 相似文献
13.
Experimental investigation of the harmonic generation by waves over a submerged plate 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Experiments in a wave flume have been performed to analyse the nonlinear interaction between regular gravity waves and a submerged horizontal plate used as breakwater. A new method, based on the Doppler shift generated by a moving probes, has been used to discriminate the incident fundamental mode and the reflected fundamental mode. The relationships of the reflection and transmission coefficients to the wave number at different submergence depth ratios are presented. The accurate discrimination, by this method, of the phase-locked and free modes allows the quantification of the higher harmonics generated by the breakwater and the analysis of the nonlinear interaction between the waves and the submerged plate. The transfer of energy from the fundamental mode to higher harmonics is very large in the cases of small submergence depth ratios. The vortices produced at the edges take part in the production of higher harmonics by interaction with the free surface but involve, at the same time, a dissipation process that increases the efficiency of the breakwater. 相似文献
14.
In this study, the propagation of monochromatic water waves over an arbitrarily varying topography is numerically investigated. A finite element model is developed by formulating the diffraction of waves caused by depth changes. Not only the propagating mode but also the evanescent modes are included in the model. The model developed is applied to the study of strong reflection of monochromatic waves over a sinusoidally varying topography. Predicted reflection coefficients are compared with those of available laboratory experiments and the eigenfunction expansion method. A very good agreement is observed. 相似文献
15.
Propagation of 400-Hz sound through continental-shelf internal solitary wave packets is shown by numerical simulation to be strongly influenced by coupling of normal modes. Coupling in a packet is controlled by the mode coefficients at the point where sound enters the packet, the dimensions of the waves and packet, and the ambient depth structures of temperature and salinity. In the case of a moving packet, changes of phases of the incident modes with respect to each other dominate over the other factors, altering the coupling over time and thus inducing signal fluctuations. The phasing within a moving packet varies with time scales of minutes, causing coupling and signal fluctuations with comparable time scales. The directionality of energy flux between high-order acoustic modes and (less attenuated) low-order modes determines a gain factor for long-range propagation. A significant finding is that energy flux toward low-order modes through the effect of a packet near a source favoring high-order modes will give net amplification at distant ranges. Conversely, a packet far from a source sends energy into otherwise quiet higher modes. The intermittency of the coupling and of high-mode attenuation via bottom interaction means that signal energy fluctuations and modal diversity fluctuations at a distant receiver are complementary, with energy fluctuations suggesting a source-region packet and mode fluctuations suggesting a receiver-region packet. Simulations entailing 33-km propagation are used in the analyses, imitating the SWARM experiment geometry, allowing comparison with observations 相似文献
16.
An unsteady wave driver for narrowbanded waves: modeling nearshore circulation driven by wave groups
In this paper, we derive an unsteady refraction–diffraction model for narrowbanded water waves for use in computing coupled wave–current motion in the nearshore. The end result is a variable coefficient, nonlinear Schrödinger-type wave driver (describing the envelope of narrow-banded incident waves) coupled to forced nonlinear shallow water equations (describing steady or unsteady mean flows driven by the short-wave field). Comparisons with experimental data show that good accuracy can be obtained for cases of nonbreaking wave transformation. Numerical simulations show that the interaction of wave groups with longshore topographic nonuniformities generates strong edge wave resonances, providing a generating mechanism for low-order edge waves. 相似文献
17.
The dynamics of multiple floating structures have been studied using the finite element method. The emphasis is on the hydrodynamic behaviour of multiple bodies under a multi-directional wave field. A two-dimensional numerical model has been adopted to evaluate hydrodynamic coefficients and forces in an oblique wave field. The responses in sway, heave and roll modes are reported. The linear filter technique is then used to extrapolate the responses under directional waves. The effect of mean wave direction and directional homogeneity on the hydrodynamic behaviour of the structure is studied. Based on the present study, it is found that the two-dimensional model is applicable to investigate the wave-structure interaction problems of the type herein considered. 相似文献
18.
Åge Kyllingstad 《Applied Ocean Research》1984,6(3):132-139
This paper concerns mathematical modelling of the hydrodynamic interaction forces between small vertically axisymmetric wave-power devices. The model takes into account small-body approximations for the first order scattered waves but neglects multiple scattering. Further, the local wave fields are neglected, making the model inapplicable for very closely spaced bodies.The model, which is called the low-scattering approximation, comprises analytical formulae for the forces in any of the translation modes surge, sway and heave. It requires, however, that the following isolated-body parameters are known or externally supplied: the added mass and the force coefficients for both heave and surge motion.Comparison with accurate numerical results of a two-buoy system indicates that the present approach is fairly good even when the buoy diameter is as large as 1/6 of the wavelength and the buoy spacing is as small as 5 buoy radii. 相似文献
19.
Interaction of surface gravity waves with multiple vertically moored surface-piercing membrane breakwaters in finite water depth is analyzed based on the linearized theory of water waves. The study is carried out using least square approximation method to understand the effect of the vertical membrane as effective breakwater. Initially the problem is studied for a single membrane wave barrier but for the case of multiple membrane breakwaters the study is carried out using the method of wide-spacing approximation. In the present study, it is observed that the deflection of the membrane is reduced with the increase in the stiffness parameter of the mooring lines attached to the membrane. In the case of single surface-piercing membrane with moored and fixed edge conditions, the reflection and transmission coefficients are compared and analyzed in detail. The resonating pattern in the reflection coefficients are also observed for multiple floating membrane which can also be referred as Bragg's resonance. In the presence of the porosity constant the wave reflection is also observed to be decreasing and the change in the distance between the vertical floating breakwaters also helps in the attenuation of wave height. It is observed that the presence of multiple floating breakwater helps in the reduction of wave height in the transmitted region. 相似文献
20.
The hydrodynamic problem arising form the interaction of linear water waves with a wave energy device consisting of two coaxial vertical cylinders of different radii is investigated. One cylinder is riding in waves, while another is submerged in fluid. By use of the method of separation of variables and the method of matched eigenfunction expansion, analytical expressions for the potentials are obtained. Using the expressions for the potentials, analytical expressions for the hydrodynamic coefficients and exciting forces/moments on the device are obtained. Numerical results of the hydrodynamic coefficients and exciting forces/moments are presented for some ratios of the radius of the submerged cylinder to that of the riding one. It is found that the radius of the submerged cylinder has a significant influence on the hydrodynamic coefficients and exciting forces/moments for relatively bigger radius of the submerged cylinder at low frequencies. 相似文献