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1.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(2-3):181-190
Two-dimensional depth-averaged Boussinesq-type equations were presented with the consideration of slowly varying bathymetry and effects of bottom viscous boundary layer. These Boussinesq-type equations were written in terms of the horizontal velocity components evaluated at an arbitrary elevation in the water depth and the free surface displacement. The leading order effects of the bottom boundary layer were represented by a convolution integral in the depth-integrated continuity equation. To test the validity of the theory, a set of laboratory experiments was performed to measure the viscous damping and shoaling of a solitary wave propagating in a wave tank. The time histories of the free surface profiles were measured at several locations along the centerline of the flume. To compare these laboratory data with theoretical results, the two-dimensional Boussinesq-type equations were integrated across the wave tank, resulting in a set of one-dimensional equations, while the side-wall boundary layers were properly considered. The agreement between the experimental data and numerical results was very good. The bottom shear stress formula was also given and its impact on the sediment transport rate was discussed.  相似文献   

2.
纪艳菊  刘淑波  齐震 《海洋科学》2014,38(12):120-127
本文通过假定底边界层湍黏性的三次多项式参数化形式,基于简化的Navier–Stokes方程,并利用超几何方程的性质,推导出了湍流粗糙底边界层的速度解析解。同时,得到了底边界层内其他的动力参数,如底剪应力、Ekman传输、Ekman抽吸及近底部速度分布场,从理论上讨论了均匀混合底边界层特征量分布特征。通过数值结果分析,进一步得出底边界层的总速度、亏损速度及其剪应力受平均流的角频率和地球自转影响比较大;而底边界层的动力结构对于底边界层顶部粗糙度不敏感。该涡黏性模式从理论上丰富了底边界层涡黏性的形式,为底边界层的动力系统研究提供了借鉴和理论参考。  相似文献   

3.
An analytical theory which describes the motion in a turbulent wave boundary layer near a rough sea bottom by using a two-layer time invariant eddy viscosity model is presented. The eddy viscosity in the inner layer increases quadratically with the height above the sea bottom. In the outer layer the eddy viscosity is taken as a constant. The mean velocity and shear stress profiles, the bottom shear stress and the bottom friction coefficient are presented, and comparisons are made with experimental results.  相似文献   

4.
The three-dimensional numerical model with σ-coordinate transformation in the vertical direction is applied to the simulation of surface water waves and wave-induced laminar boundary layers. Unlike most of the previous investigations that solved the simplified one-dimensional boundary layer equation of motion and neglected the interaction between boundary layer and outside flow, the present model solves the full Navier–Stokes equations (NSE) in the entire domain from bottom to free surface. A non-uniform mesh system is used in the vertical direction to resolve the thin boundary layer. Linear wave, Stokes wave, cnoidal wave and solitary wave are considered. The numerical results are compared to analytical solutions and available experimental data. The numerical results agree favorably to all of the experimental data. It is found that the analytical solutions are accurate for both linear wave and Stokes wave but inadequate for cnoidal wave or solitary wave. The possible reason is that the existing analytical solutions for cnoidal and solitary waves adopt the first-order approximation for free stream velocity and thus overestimate the near bottom velocity. Besides velocity, the present model also provides accurate results for wave-induced bed shear stress.  相似文献   

5.
A three-dimensional Large Eddy Simulation (LES) model is used to simulate oscillating tidal boundary layers and test previous results obtained from one-dimensional boundary layer models and turbulence measurements in tidal channels. The LES model produces low-order turbulence statistics in agreement with the semi-analytic theory and observations. It shows a logarithmic layer in the mean velocity profile and a linear distribution of Reynolds stress with water depth. However, the eddy viscosity profile predicted by the LES model is not parabolic but better matches a parabolic profile modified by wake effect observed in the outer part of depth-limited steady boundary layers. Low-order turbulence statistics can be scaled by the instantaneous friction velocity at the bottom boundary. Although turbulence intensities in three directions fluctuate over a tidal cycle, their normalized values are in good agreement with those determined from laboratory experiments of steady open-channel flows. The LES model confirms that tidal turbulence is in quasi-equilibrium. However, it also demonstrates the importance of flow acceleration/deceleration term in the depth-integrated momentum balance for the mean flow. Phase differences are found between flows at different heights above the bottom boundary.  相似文献   

6.
海—气相互作用与海流、风暴潮   总被引:3,自引:4,他引:3  
秦曾灏 《海洋学报》1979,1(1):17-38
从方法论上说,除潮汐以外,通常在处理海洋动力学问题时,大多撇开海洋对大气的影响,强调大气对海洋的主导作用,把大气运动当作诱发海水运动的唯一原动力,视海面风场为给定条件,而后用经验或半经验公式算出海面风应力场,作为施加于海水的强迫力。因此,一个成功的海浪、海流或风暴潮的预报,除了具备反映海水运动的主要物理性能的数学模型外,还必须以客观的、准确的海面风场的数值计算和预报为前提。由于问题的复杂性,迄今为止似乎还不能说在实用上已经提供了海面风的一种足够精确的估算或预报方法。海上气象观测资料,尤其是测风资料的稀少,给海面风应力的实际计算带来不少困难。  相似文献   

7.
Scaling of the equations of motion of the Antarctic Circumpolar Current indicates that the Rossby number and the Ekman number are 10−4 to 10−5 but the vertical Ekman number may reach unity in the bottom boundary layer. The equations of motion are integrated vertically from the surface to the bottom and averaged over a latitude circle. The resulting equation in the meridional direction is predominantly geostrophic, whereas the main terms of the equation in the zonal direction are the wind stress and the bottom stress. When the vertical eddy viscosity near the bottom is of the order of 102cm2/sec, the total zonal transport through the Drake Passage computed from the balance of the wind stress and the bottom stress equals 260×106m3/sec, the amount determined byReid andNowlin (1970) from observations. The northward transport reduces the eastward transport corresponding to the wind stress of the westerlies in the A. C. C. through the Coriolis' term in the vertically integrated equation of motion of the zonal direction. South of the Drake Passage, such reduction reaches about ten percent of the wind-driven transport mainly due to the peripheral water discharge. North of the Drake Passage, the northward transport may be generated by the effect of the South American coast which prevents free eastward movement of the A. C. C., causing a wake to the east. This transport may contribute to a part of the northward transport of the bottom water postulated byMunk (1966). The effect of the horizontal eddy viscosity in the zonal transport equation is negligible except near the Antarctic coast, if the eddy viscosity is less than 109cm2/sec.  相似文献   

8.
The boundary layer characteristics beneath waves transforming on a natural beach are affected by both waves and wave-induced currents, and their predictability is more difficult and challenging than for those observed over a seabed of uniform depth. In this research, a first-order boundary layer model is developed to investigate the characteristics of bottom boundary layers in a wave–current coexisting environment beneath shoaling and breaking waves. The main difference between the present modeling approach and previous methods is in the mathematical formulation for the mean horizontal pressure gradient term in the governing equations for the cross-shore wave-induced currents. This term is obtained from the wave-averaged momentum equation, and its magnitude depends on the balance between the wave excess momentum flux gradient and the hydrostatic pressure gradient due to spatial variations in the wave field of propagating waves and mean water level fluctuations. A turbulence closure scheme is used with a modified low Reynolds number k-ε model. The model was validated with two published experimental datasets for normally incident shoaling and breaking waves over a sloping seabed. For shoaling waves, model results agree well with data for the instantaneous velocity profiles, oscillatory wave amplitudes, and mean velocity profiles. For breaking waves, a good agreement is obtained between model and data for the vertical distribution of mean shear stress. In particular, the model reproduced the local onshore mean flow near the bottom beneath shoaling waves, and the vertically decreasing pattern of mean shear stress beneath breaking waves. These successful demonstrations for wave–current bottom boundary layers are attributed to a novel formulation of the mean pressure gradient incorporated in the present model. The proposed new formulation plays an important role in modeling the boundary layer characteristics beneath shoaling and breaking waves, and ensuring that the present model is applicable to nearshore sediment transport and morphology evolution.  相似文献   

9.
10.
Non-dimensional equations of motion are derived for the A.C.C. of the barotropic mode, including the bottom friction and the horizontal eddy viscosity. Integration of the vorticity equation along a streamline leads to the zeroth order stream function which is dependent only on depth divided by Coriolis parameter. Integration of the momentum equation along a streamline yields the relation between the momentum input by wind stress and its dissipation by the bottom friction and by the horizontal eddy viscosity. This relation determines the magnitude of the stream function. It explains differences in the total transport of the A.C.C. obtained byBryan andCox (1972), though it gives only one third of the total transport obtained byKamenkovich (1972) with his vertical eddy viscosity of 102cm2 s?1. With 1 cm2 s?1 of this viscosity,Bryan andCox obtained the transport of about 650 or less than 32×106m3s?1 for constant or variable depth models, respectively. The higher transport is mainly due to broadening of the width of the A.C.C., whereas the lower value is due to its narrowing and meandering which in turn make the horizontal eddy viscosity more effective (by exercising friction on both sides of the A.C.C.) and the wind stress input smaller than the almost zonal streamlines for constant depth. In the Appendix dynamics of the bottom boundary layer is treated to give rational estimates of the bottom stress in terms of the geostrophic flow and is compared to the recent observations of the benthic boundary current in the Straits of Florida and off San Diego.  相似文献   

11.
A high-quality experimental study including a large number of tests which correspond to full-scale coastal boundary layer flows is conducted using an oscillating water tunnel for flow generations and a Particle Image Velocimetry system for velocity measurements. Tests are performed for sinusoidal, Stokes and forward-leaning waves over three fixed bottom roughness configurations, i.e. smooth, “sandpaper” and ceramic-marble bottoms. The experimental results suggest that the logarithmic profile can accurately represent the boundary layer flows in the very near-bottom region, so the log-profile fitting analysis can give highly accurate determinations of the theoretical bottom location and the bottom roughness. The first-harmonic velocities of both sinusoidal and nonlinear waves, as well as the second-harmonic velocities of nonlinear waves, exhibit similar patterns of vertical variation. Two dimensionless characteristic boundary layer thicknesses, the elevation of 1% velocity deficit and the elevation of maximum amplitude, are found to have power-law dependencies on the relative roughness for rough bottom tests. A weak boundary layer streaming embedded in nonlinear waves and a small but meaningful third-harmonic velocity embedded in sinusoidal waves are observed. They can be only explained by the effect of a time-varying turbulent eddy viscosity. The measured period-averaged vertical velocities suggest the presence of Prandtl's secondary flows of the second kind in the test channel. Among the three methods to infer bottom shear stress from velocity measurements, the Reynolds stress method underestimates shear stress due to missed turbulent eddies, and the momentum integral method also significantly underestimates bottom shear stress for rough bottom tests due to secondary flows, so only the log-profile fitting method is considered to yield the correct estimate. The obtained bottom shear stresses are analyzed to give the maximum and the first three harmonics, and the results are used to validate some existing theoretical models.  相似文献   

12.
黄海、渤海盐度的垂直结构具有典型的自模性,而其水平分布又受平流、水平扩散效应及径流等因素的影响。本文根据黄海、渤海实测资料拟合了盐度垂直剖面的自模函数,并结合描述表、底层盐度及上均匀层厚度这3个特征量水平分布的方程,给出盐度三维结构的准三维模式。在模式中,综合考虑了海面风和热输入的强迫作用以及流场的平流、侧向混合及底层混合的影响因素,同时还考虑了径流、蒸发及降水的作用,较客观地反映了盐度的三维分布及其变化的物理过程。试报结果分析表明,模式的功能较好,结果令人满意。  相似文献   

13.
李诚  张弛  隋倜倜 《海洋学报》2016,38(5):141-149
建立了同时考虑波致雷诺应力和时均水平压强梯度影响的二阶波浪边界层数学模型,模型计算得到的浅化波浪层流边界层内瞬时流速剖面、振荡速度幅值和时均流速剖面均与水槽实验数据吻合较好,在此基础上探讨了浅化波浪边界层流速分布特性及其影响机制。随着波浪的浅化变形,边界层内时均流速剖面"底部向岸、上部离岸"的变化特征越来越明显。这是二阶对流项引起的波致雷诺应力和离岸回流引起的时均水平压强梯度共同作用的结果,在床面附近由波致雷诺应力占主导作用并趋于引起向岸流动,在上部区域由时均水平压强梯度占主导作用并趋于引起离岸流动。  相似文献   

14.
The paper presents a simple approach to estimate the bottom shear stress in the swash zone by coupling the Non Linear Shallow Water Equations with the momentum integral equation for the bottom boundary layer. The approach allows not only the computation of the frictional dissipation term in the equations but also to have an insight into the flow structure in the water column during a swash event. The numerical results have been compared with a new set of experiments involving a single dam-break generated swash event. Three different grain sizes, ranging from coarse sand to gravel, have been tested in the laboratory.  相似文献   

15.
A finite-differnece method was used to calculate the nonlinear hydrodynamic pressures acting on the coastal embankment faces by seismic-wave actions. The nonlinearity of free surface flow, convective acceleration, viscosity and surface tension of fluid are included in the analysis. The kinematic and dynamic free surface boundary conditions are employed for calculating the horizontal fluid velocity, pressure at the free surface and the surface profile of the fluid. The time-dependent water surface is transformed to the horizontal plane, and the flow field is mapped onto a rectangular, making it convenient to model the complex sea bottom geometry and the wavy water surface by the finite-difference method. Fully nonlinear and weakly nonlinear dynamic free surface conditions are used and compared. The effects of surface tension of fluid are also discussed. The nonslip boundary condition is applied on the most part of the interface between fluid and solid face, except the region near the intersection between free surface and wall face. The numerical results are presented for various water depths and ground motion intensities, and their associate viscous effects on coastal embankment hydrodynamics are discussed.  相似文献   

16.
A transformation method is presented by which current profiles (of tidal or wind-induced origin) can be extracted at any horizontal position and moment in time from a vertically integrated, two-dimensional, hydrodynamic numerical model. An arbitrary vertical variation of eddy viscosity can be included in the method, which can incorporate a no-slip bottom boundary condition. The technique assumes that the sea is homogeneous.The method is used to improve the representation of bottom stress within the two-dimensional model, whereby the bottom stress is no longer related simply to the depth-mean current as in the “conventional” two-dimensional, vertically integrated model.Idealized calculations for a range of eddy viscosity profiles, show that elevations, current profiles, and time series of current extracted from this “enhanced” two-dimensional numerical model are in good agreement with currents obtained from a full three-dimensional model.  相似文献   

17.
The boundary layer is very important in the relation between wave motion and bed stress, such as sediment transport. It is a known fact that bed stress behavior is highly influenced by the boundary layer beneath the waves. Specifically, the boundary layer underneath wave runup is difficult to assess and thus, it has not yet been widely discussed, although its importance is significant. In this study, the shallow water equation (SWE) prediction of wave motion is improved by being coupled with the kω model, as opposed to the conventional empirical method, to approximate bed stress. Subsequently, the First Order Center Scheme and Monotonic Upstream Scheme of Conservation Laws (FORCE MUSCL), which is a finite volume shock-capturing scheme, is applied to extend the SWE range for breaking wave simulation. The proposed simultaneous coupling method (SCM) assumes the depth-averaged velocity from the SWE is equivalent to free stream velocity. In turn, free stream velocity is used to calculate a pressure gradient, which is then used by the kω model to approximate bed stress. Finally, this approximation is applied to the momentum equation in the SWE. Two experimental cases will be used to verify the SCM by comparing runup height, surface fluctuation, bed stress, and turbulent intensity values. The SCM shows good comparison to experimental data for all before-mentioned parameters. Further analysis shows that the wave Reynolds number increases as the wave propagates and that the turbulence behavior in the boundary layer gradually changes, such as the increase of turbulent intensity.  相似文献   

18.
The results of simultaneous measurements of the bottom (6.25 and 35 m above the bottom) currents, deep currents, and surface currents made at three points in the north-east tropical Pacific Ocean are given. The bottom intensification of the current velocity is revealed in a layer of 35–25 m above the bottom. The estimation of the thickness of the bottom boundary layer (BBL) indicates that the velocity intensification is observed over the boundary layer upper border. A 10-day long benthic storm with a maximum measured velocity of 13 cm/s was revealed 6 m above the bottom. As was found, the origin of the benthic storm is associated with the penetration of an anticyclonic eddy down to the bottom.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.  相似文献   

19.
This work presents a new approach for simulating the random waves in viscous fluids and the associated bottom shear stresses. By generating the incident random waves in a numerical wave flume and solving the unsteady two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the fully nonlinear free surface boundaiy conditions for the fluid flows in the flume, the viscous flows and laminar bottom shear stresses induced by random waves axe determined. The deterministic spectral amplitude method implemented by use of the fast Fourier transform algorithm was adopted to generate the incident random waves. The accuracy of the numerical scheme is confirmed by comparing the predicted wave spectrum with the target spectrum and by comparing the nanlerical transfer function between the shear stress and the surface elevation with the theoretical transfer function. The maximum bottom shear stress caused by random waves, computed by this wave model, is compared with that obtained by Myrhaug' s model (1995). The transfer function method is also employed to determine the maximum shear stress, and is proved accurate.  相似文献   

20.
Nearshore shoaling and breaking waves can drive a complex circulation system of wave-induced currents. In the cross-shore direction, the local vertical imbalance between the gradient of radiation stress and that of pressure due to the setup drives an offshore flow near the bottom, called ‘undertow’, which plays a significant role in the beach profile evolution and the structure stability in coastal regions. A 1DV undertow model was developed based on the relationship between the turbulent shear stress and t...  相似文献   

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