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1.
The shoreline trajectory of Damietta city, locates at the Northern coast of Egypt, is dramatically subjected to kinematic changes. These variations mainly occur based on the incessant duel hydrodynamic impacts of both wave action and coastal currents. Several types of coastal measures have been applied substantially along the coastal stretch of Damietta to protect shoreline such as detached breakwaters, Jetties, groins, and seawalls. This study is essentially focused on the assessment of shoreline kinematics response due to the existence of these structures during the period from 1990 to 2015. In addition, the future changes of the shoreline at 2020, 2025 and 2035 are predicted using satellite images, Geo-spatial tools and Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) by the meaning of End Point Rate (EPR) and Linear Regression Rate (LRR) methods. Four Landsat images at different periods; TM1990, TM 1999, ETM 2003 and ETM 2015 are used to detect shoreline changes. Three semi-automatic extraction techniques are initially tempted for Landsat ETM 2003 imagery namely; Iso cluster technique, threshold method, and onscreen digitizing method to select the optimal one. Iso cluster technique is used as the optimal technique which achieves the least errors with the corresponding field data in 2003 by value of 0.34. Furthermore, the extraction shoreline change for Damietta coast is extensively measured for three zones: zone (1) the western sector encompassing Damietta port with two jetties; zone (2) the central sector including detached breakwaters; zone (3) the eastern portion of Damietta estuary passing through a seawall. Verification analysis shows that the EPR is the optimum method for shoreline detection with a value of RMSE by 0.27. The results show that, for zone (1), the western shoreline of Damietta port is progressed by a rate of +10.0 m/year. On the other hand, the shoreline on the down drift side at zone (2) has retreated by a rate of -5.0 m/year. While the shoreline behind the detached breakwaters in the central sector has advanced by +12.0 m/year from 1999 to 2003, then decreased gradually until become stable in 2015. For zone (3), alongshore currents have derived the disassembled sandy soil from west to east leaving a highly eroded area by average rate of -78m/year. The results of this study give indication to shoreline trend of near future which should be under consideration in planning of Damietta coastal zone.  相似文献   

2.
海岸线变化对海岸带生态环境改变、滨海土地侵蚀有着极其重要的影响,海岸线的提取和监测对海岸带生态系统的保护和管理具有重要意义。本研究基于数字化海岸线分析系统(DSAS,Digital Shoreline Analysis System),研究了黄河三角洲和莱州湾的海岸线时空变化规律。研究结果表明:通过提取1985-2015年6期的Landsat影像,发现近30年来黄河三角洲和莱州湾地区海岸线均呈现显著的向海方向扩张的趋势,且增长速率逐渐加快。黄河三角洲的终点变化速率(EPR,End Point Rate)约为73.0 m/a、线性回归速率(LRR,Linear Regression Rate)约为75.5 m/a,黄河港-大咀沟增长速度最快(129.2 m/a),受黄河泥沙输送的影响,黄河口和老黄河口岸线的几何形态呈现平滑的变化趋势;莱州湾岸线的EPR和LRR约为139.5 m/a和144.3 m/a,淄脉河河口-白浪河河口段增长速度最快(197.6 m/a),岸线变化较为显著的区域主要集中在港口、圈海堤坝、海水养殖等的地方。DSAS模型在海岸线定量化分析中具有显著优势,利用EPR和LRR指标能够科学有效地模拟岸线在时间和空间上的变化速率。  相似文献   

3.
通过对杭州湾北岸南竹港-龙泉岸段实测岸滩断面资料的统计分析,进而对淤泥质海岸岸线变化、影响因素及其动态模拟预报进行探讨。结果表明:因长江来沙减少以及侵蚀/淤积波自东向西移动,导致近10a来该岸段岸滩处于侵蚀状态,其中岸线整体后退;因季节性的波侯作用,岸滩具有冬淤夏冲的特征,岸线则表现为冬涨夏退,因局部工程作用影响的岸线则具有冬退夏涨的特征。此外,基于-3m和-8m等深线构建的径向基函数神经网络模型预报岸线的变化是可行的。  相似文献   

4.
This research focuses on the shoreline change rate analysis by automatic image analysis techniques using multi-temporal Landsat images and Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) along the coastal Ramsar wetlands of Turkey. Five wetlands were selected for analysis: Yumurtalik Ramsar, the Goksu Ramsar, Kizilirmak and Yesilirmak wetlands and Gediz wetlands. Accretion or erosion processes were observed on multi-temporal satellite images along the areas of interest. Landsat images were geometrically and radiometrically corrected for the quantitative coastline delineation analysis. DSAS (Digital Shoreline Analysis System) was used as a reliable statistical approach for the rate of coastline change. For the detection of coastal change in Aegean part (Gediz wetland) of the study, zonal change detection method was used. As a result of the analysis, in some parts of research area remarkable shoreline changes (more than 765 m withdrawal and −20.68 m/yr erosion in Yumurtalik, 650 m withdrawal and −25.99 m/yr erosion in Goksu, 660 m withdrawal and −16.10 m/yr erosion in Kizilirmak and 640 m withdrawal and −4.91 m/yr erosion in Yesilirmak) were observed for three periods (1989, 1999 and 2009). Wetland in Gediz delta which is 35.57 km2 was converted to sea or salt pan for the period 1975 and 2009.  相似文献   

5.
The tsunami waves generated during the Sumatra-Andaman earthquake of 26 December 2004 devastated the coastal area along Trinkat Island, causing sudden changes to the morphology of the landforms. This study uses a series of satellite images to record the short-term morphological response and shoreline changes as well as the recovery of coastal land after its destruction. Results indicate that the island experienced substantial erosion and a significant reduction in land area. Shoreline erosion is more prevalent than accretion at an average linear regression rate of ~?9 m per year between 2004 and 2013. The major morphological changes at Trinkat Island were observed in coastal inlets, beaches, and bay head-lands. Straight beaches had almost recovered eight years after the tsunami; however, erosion is continually observed in other areas. Our study will help understanding the response and recovery of shorelines in Indian Ocean regions after the 2004 tsunami.  相似文献   

6.
Indian River Inlet is located at roughly the mid-point of the Atlantic coast of Delaware and connects the ocean to two Delaware inland bays. Jetties constructed in 1940 have maintained the inlet for navigation purposes but have also acted as a barrier to net northerly alongshore sediment transport causing downdrift erosion. A mobile, land-based bypassing system was initiated in 1990 in an effort to counteract this erosion. Beach profile data from 1985 (pre-bypassing) until 2008 are used to investigate the effect of the sand bypassing system on beaches adjacent to the inlet. The downdrift beach experienced horizontal shoreline erosion between 10 and 60 m during the pre-bypassing period but accreted 10–20 m during the bypassing period. The mean shoreline location on the updrift beach during bypassing is 10–20 m landward (erosion) of its position during the pre-bypassing period. Empirical orthogonal function (EOF) amplitudes from analyses performed on mean-removed elevation surfaces during the periods of highest bypassed volume (average of 83% of design rate) showed that the influence of the bypassing system on the downdrift beach extends to about 1500 m of the inlet. An EOF analysis showed that different morphologic responses were evident following the initiation of bypass operations. Temporal variations of shoreline and beach morphology were correlated to the temporal variations in bypassing rates on the downdrift beach only. The downdrift beach response was greatest near the inlet for larger bypassing volumes. Correlation in these instances occurred with a roughly 1-year time lag suggesting that the beach quickly redistributes the bypassed sand. EOF amplitude and shoreline response are weakly correlated to bypassed volumes when the system bypassed smaller volumes (average of 56% of design rate) of sand suggesting that there is a minimum bypassing rate, regardless of yearly variability, below which the effect on the downdrift beach is obscured.  相似文献   

7.
战超  于君宝  王庆  栗云召  周迪 《海洋学报》2017,39(9):90-100
在野外考察的基础上,以不同时期测量和成像的海图、地形图和高分辨率遥感影像为数据源,综合使用数字岸线分析、遥感、地理信息系统等方法,对近60年来莱州湾东部砂质海岸(界河口-刁龙嘴)地貌演变进行研究。结果表明,研究期内莱州湾东部岸线迁移和水下岸坡冲淤存在强烈的时空差异。岸线迁移表现为冲淤进退交替发生,其在时间过程上具有非线性的显著特点。1959-2013年,侵蚀岸线所占比例波动起伏,具有阶段性。侵蚀岸段年均演变速率以1985年为界分成两个阶段,前期由极大值4.95 m/a(1959-1969年)锐减至极小值1.97 m/a(1969-1985年),后期由1.97 m/a增大到4.43 m/a(1985-1998年),之后均处于高强度侵蚀。岸线迁移空间分布的差异性主要表现在4个岬湾的岸线变迁特征与莱州湾东岸岸线整体变迁并不一致。同时,水下岸坡冲淤条带大体相间分布,同一岸段1959-1985年和1985-2008年的冲淤演变趋势基本相反。进一步分析表明最近60年来,莱州湾东部砂岸在水库拦沙、潮上带工厂化水产养殖、大型海岸工程等人类活动的地貌效应共同控制下,发生了5次岸线淤积前进与侵蚀后退以及冲淤速率大小的交替。  相似文献   

8.
A large deficit in the coastal sediment budget, high rates of relative sea-level rise (~0.9 cm/year), and storm-induced current and wave erosion are forcing barrier shoreface retreat along the periphery of the Mississippi River delta plain. Additionally, conversion of interior wetlands to open water has increased the bay tidal prism, resulting in degradation of barrier islands due to inlet widening, formation of new inlets, and sediment sequestration at ebb-tidal deltas. Single-beam bathymetric surveys along a 165-km stretch of south-central Louisiana barrier coast, from Raccoon Point in Terrebonne Parish to Sandy Point in Plaquemines Parish, were conducted in 2006. These data, combined with historical bathymetry from three time periods (dating to the 1880s), provide a series of digital elevation models that were used to calculate sediment volumetric changes and determine long-term erosional-depositional trends. Dominant patterns during the 125-year period include (1) erosion of ~1.6 × 109 m3 from the shoreface, forcing up to 3 km of shoreface retreat, (2) sediment deposition in coastal bights and at ebb-tidal deltas, and (3) a combined increase in tidal inlet cross-sectional area from ~41,400 m2 to ~139,500 m2. Bathymetric and shoreline change datasets separated by shorter time periods (sub-annual) demonstrate that these long-term trends are driven by processes associated with major hurricane impacts, and that rates of shoreface erosion are an order of magnitude greater during active hurricane seasons compared to long-term trends.  相似文献   

9.
泰国湾近30年海岸线变迁剧烈。文章基于1988年、1996年、2006年和 2016年4个时期Landsat TM/OLI中等分辨率卫星遥感影像数据,开展了近30年泰国湾岸线长度时空变迁遥感监测,并应用数字海岸分析系统(DSAS)计算出4期岸线变迁速率,给出了4个时期泰国湾侵蚀淤积面积状况,分析了岸线变迁的自然因素和人类活动因素。并从岸线增长速率、岸线变迁速率、蚀淤面积状况、岸线类型变化4个方面给出结论。  相似文献   

10.
本文基于 GIs 技术对 1977—2017 年芝罘连岛沙坝的岸线变化和海湾冲淤动态进行分析, 发现了连岛沙坝的变化情 况及其影响机制。结果表明: 在此期间, 连岛沙坝东西两侧始终处于向海推进趋势; 在快速城市化进程下导致沙坝附近的岸 线总体长度增加, 形状趋于复杂, 自然海岸消失, 人工海岸建设不断向海延伸; 通过等深线反映附近海域冲淤变化, 主要体 现在芝罘湾侧以人为干预为主, 近岸海域的港口 、码头等地侵蚀剧烈, 海湾中心呈严重片状淤积。本研究对明确人类活动、 流域水沙及水动力环境变化等对芝罘连岛坝地貌演变的影响, 以及本地区海岸带的可持续利用具有重要指导意义。  相似文献   

11.
ABSTRACT

Chilika, a lagoon along the east coast of India, is undergoing transformation due to frequent shoreline change near inlet(s). Shoreline change near inlet includes change in position and shape of inlet, inlet channel length, and spit growth/erosion. These variable features of lagoon inlet(s) critically depend on alongshore sediment transport (LST) and discharge (water and sediment) from the lagoon to the sea. The LST and the processes responsible for sand spit growth/erosion, considered as important attributes of inlet stability, are the subject matter of the present investigation and hence the study assumes importance. The study includes integration of observational and modeling framework. Observations include nearshore wave, bathymetry, beach profile, shoreline and sediment grain size of spits while numerical modeling includes simulation of the wave using MIKE 21 Spectral Wave model and LST simulation using LITtoral DRIFT. The results indicate that the predominant wave directions as S and SSE, which induces round the year south to north alongshore transport with significant seasonal variation in magnitude. The estimated LST closely matches with previous studies near Chilika inlet and for other locations along the Odisha coast. Besides temporal variability, the study reveals spatial variability in alongshore transport near Chilika inlet and considers it as one of the important attributes along with northward spit growth for inlet migration/closure/opening.  相似文献   

12.
Dune erosion is shown to occur at the embayment of beach mega-cusps O(200 m alongshore) that are associated with rip currents. The beach is the narrowest at the embayment of the mega-cusps allowing the swash of large storm waves coincident with high tides to reach the toe of the dune, to undercut the dune and to cause dune erosion. Field measurements of dune, beach, and rip current morphology are acquired along an 18 km shoreline in southern Monterey Bay, California. This section of the bay consists of a sandy shoreline backed by extensive dunes, rising to heights exceeding 40 m. There is a large increase in wave height going from small wave heights in the shadow of a headland, to the center of the bay where convergence of waves owing to refraction over the Monterey Bay submarine canyon results in larger wave heights. The large alongshore gradient in wave height results in a concomitant alongshore gradient in morphodynamic scale. The strongly refracted waves and narrow bay aperture result in near normal wave incidence, resulting in well-developed, persistent rip currents along the entire shoreline.

The alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline are found significantly correlated with the alongshore variations in rip spacing at 95% confidence. The alongshore variations of the volume of dune erosion are found significantly correlated with alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline at 95% confidence. Therefore, it is concluded the mega-cusps are associated with rip currents and that the location of dune erosion is associated with the embayment of the mega-cusp.  相似文献   


13.
江苏中部淤泥质海岸岸线变化遥感监测研究   总被引:4,自引:0,他引:4  
陈玮彤  张东  施顺杰  周静  康敏 《海洋学报》2017,39(5):138-148
海岸线监测是了解海岸冲淤变化的基础。针对淤泥质海岸潮间带坡度平缓的特点,考虑到潮汐对遥感海岸线监测的影响,基于多潮位站插值校正的水边线离散点潮位赋值及坡度计算对水边线方法进行了改进,并结合潮间带实测坡度资料校正,推算遥感海岸线。选择江苏中部冲淤变化频繁、自然岸线保有率较高的扁担河口至川东港岸段开展海岸线变迁遥感监测研究。结果表明,研究区坡度主要在0.001~0.002之间,潮间带宽度由北向南越来越宽。北部扁担河口至射阳河口岸段处于冲刷环境中,大量以养殖塘围堤为主的人工岸线不断被侵蚀后退;射阳河口至四卯酉河口岸段以海岸线在自然状态下的动态变化为主,2010-2015年平均冲淤速率小于10 m/a,变化幅度较小;南部四卯酉河口至川东港岸段,自然岸线淤长明显,同时人工围垦导致岸线不断向海推进。根据监测结果,认为新洋港至斗龙港岸段应为研究区由北部侵蚀转向南部淤长的过渡带。  相似文献   

14.
The barrier-island systems of the Mississippi River Delta plain are currently undergoing some of the highest rates of shoreline retreat in North America (~20 m/year). Effective management of this coastal area requires an understanding of the processes involved in shoreline erosion and measures that can be enacted to reduce loss. The dominant stratigraphy of the delta plain is fluvial mud (silts and clays), delivered in suspension via a series of shallow-water delta lobes that prograded across the shelf throughout the Holocene. Abandonment of a delta lobe through avulsion leads to rapid land subsidence through compaction within the muddy framework. As the deltaic headland subsides below sea level, the marine environment transgresses the bays and wetlands, reworking the available sands into transgressive barrier shorelines. This natural process is further complicated by numerous factors: (1) global sea-level rise; (2) reduced sediment load within the Mississippi River; (3) diversion of the sediment load away from the barrier shorelines to the deep shelf; (4) storm-induced erosion; and (5) human alteration of the littoral process through the construction of hardened shorelines, canals, and other activities. This suite of factors has led to the deterioration of the barrier-island systems that protect interior wetlands and human infrastructure from normal wave activity and periodic storm impact. Interior wetland loss results in an increased tidal prism and inlet cross-sectional areas, and expanding ebb-tidal deltas, which removes sand from the littoral processes through diversion and sequestration. Shoreface erosion of the deltaic headlands does not provide sufficient sand to balance the loss, resulting in thinning and dislocation of the islands. Abatement measures include replenishing lost sediment with similar material, excavated from discrete sandy deposits within the muddy delta plain. These sand bodies were deposited by the same cyclical processes that formed the barrier islands, and understanding these processes is necessary to characterize their location, extent, and resource potential. In this paper we demonstrate the dominant fluvial and marine-transgressive depositional processes that occur on the inner shelf, and identify the preservation and resource potential of fluvio-deltaic deposits for coastal management in Louisiana.  相似文献   

15.
This paper presents a case study on the modelling of a headland bay beach influenced by sediment input from migrating coastal dunes. The study area is the region around the town of Ingleses on Santa Catarina Island, Santa Catarina state, South-Eastern Brazil. Ingleses has been threatened by nature at two different fronts. At the north-eastern side of the town lies Ingleses Beach, a headland bay beach which seems to be subject to persistent erosion in recent years. On the south-western side the town is threatened by a migrating dunefield, which is encroaching onto houses and infrastructure, but which has not reached the beach in the past 70 years. A second dunefield in the area does not pose a direct threat to the town, but passes it on the eastern side and forms an important influence on the development of the beach. The sediment influx rate from this dunefield to the beach is 10,000 m3/year. To investigate the effect of the dunefields on the morphodynamic system, a numerical model has been created using the software packages SWAN and UNIBEST and the static equilibrium bay shape was determined by the software package MEPBAY. The result of the long-term scenario as predicted by UNIBEST agrees rather well with the static equilibrium bay shape found with MEPBAY. This provides sounds basis for the credibility of both models. Consequently, the predicted evolutional trend of the shoreline seems plausible.  相似文献   

16.
胶州湾潮汐通道地貌体系   总被引:6,自引:0,他引:6  
胶州湾属基岩海湾型潮汐通道,湾口内、外发育较为典型的涨、落潮流三角洲,地貌体系较为完整。总的说来,胶州湾涨潮流占优势,但涨、落潮优势流路平面分异明显:落潮流三角洲中央以落潮优势流为主,两侧涨潮流占优势;涨潮流三角洲中部以涨潮优势流为主,两侧落潮流占优势,涨、落潮优势流在内、外汊道口之间发生交叉。由于水流的非正向入射,潮汐通道地貌体系不对称,潮流三角洲在湾内东侧发育、在湾外东北侧发育。  相似文献   

17.
近年来随着三门湾内围垦工程规模的不断扩大,三门湾的岸线及水深地形发生了显著变化,有必要重新评估三门湾内的潮汐振幅特征。本研究基于ADCIRC二维潮汐模型,开展了三门湾围垦工程实施前后潮汐振幅变化规律的研究。结果表明:三门湾内以半日潮为主,湾口和湾顶处振幅相差较大。单纯考虑围垦工程引起的岸线变化时,半日潮振幅受到的影响较为明显,振幅以减小为主,M2分潮减小幅度为0. 08~0. 10 m。采用经验公式预测了围垦工程造成的最终回淤量,围垦工程附近平均淤积为1. 5~2. 5 m,深水区附近淤积更加严重。当考虑了回淤导致的地形变化后,围垦工程区附近的潮汐振幅会有显著的减小,半日分潮减小幅度要远大于全日分潮,在围垦区域前沿,M2分潮振幅减小幅度较为明显,然后向外侧逐步减小。与单纯岸线变化相比,水深地形改变导致的潮汐振幅变化幅度要远大于前者。  相似文献   

18.
Results from historical (1855–2005) shoreline change analysis conducted along the Chandeleur Islands, Louisiana demonstrate that tropical cyclone frequency dominates the long-term evolution of this barrier island chain. Island area decreased at a rate of −0.16 km2/year for the relatively quiescent time period up until 1996, when an increase in tropical cyclone frequency accelerated this island area reduction to a rate of −1.01 km2/year. More frequent hurricanes also affected shoreline retreat rates, which increased from −11.4 m/year between 1922 and 1996 to −41.9 m/year between 1982 and 2005. The erosional impact caused by the passage of Hurricane Katrina in 2005 was unprecedented. Between 2004 and 2005, the shoreline of the northern islands retreated −201.5 m/year, compared with an average retreat rate of −38.4 m/year between 1922 and 2004. A linear regression analysis of shoreline change predicts that, as early as 2013, the backbarrier marsh that serves to stabilize the barrier island chain will be completely destroyed if storm frequency observed during the past decade persists. If storm frequency decreases to pre-1996 recurrence intervals, the backbarrier marsh is predicted to remain until 2037. Southern portions of the barrier island chain where backbarrier marsh is now absent behave as ephemeral islands that are destroyed after storm impacts and reemerge during extended periods of calm weather, a coastal behavior that will eventually characterize the entire island chain.  相似文献   

19.
Nearshore environments in Flathead Lake, Montana, USA, were described as dissipative or reflective on the basis of: the surf similarity parameter , grain size, morphology, number of breaking waves and angle of wave incidence. The relative resistance to foreshore and backshore erosion caused by anthropogenic lake level regulation was compared between these two nearshore configurations. Reflective systems were characterized by dynamic gravel beach faces and steep inshore shelves armored by wave-washed cobble. In contrast, dissipative systems were characterized by sand-sized substratum, broad flat inshore shelves and the presence of multiple linear bars approximately 350 m offshore. Five decades of regulated lake levels have resulted in extensive shoreline erosion (970 ha on the north shore of the lake) and a general reshaping of both types of nearshore environments, although dissipative shorelines eroded faster (5.7 m/year maximum and 2.0 m/year average). The presence of docks and other man-made structures on reflective beaches accelerated erosion by intercepting longshore gravel transport. This analysis provided a physical basis for understanding the effects of lake level regulation on shoreline ecology and management.  相似文献   

20.
A study of the East Frisian Islands has shown that the plan form of these islands can be explained by processes of inlet sediment bypassing. This island chain is located on a high wave energy, high tide range shoreline where the average deep-water significant wave height exceeds 1.0 m and the spring tidal range varies from 2.7 m at Juist to 2.9 m at Wangerooge. An abundant sediment supply and a strong eastward component of wave power (4.4 × 103 W m−1) have caused a persistent eastward growth of the barrier islands. The eastward extension of the barriers has been accommodated more by inlet narrowing, than by inlet migration.

It is estimated from morphological evidence that a minimum of 2.7 × 105 m3 of sand is delivered to the inlets each year via the easterly longshore transport system. Much of this sand ultimately bypasses the inlets in the form of large, migrating swash bars. The location where the swash bars attach to the beach is controlled by the amount of overlap of the ebb-tidal delta along the downdrift inlet shoreline. The configuration of the ebbtidal delta, in turn, is a function of inlet size and position of the main ebb channel. The swash bar welding process has caused preferential beach nourishment and historical shoreline progradation. Along the East Frisian Islands this process has produced barrier islands with humpbacked, bulbous updrift and bulbous downdrift shapes. The model of barrier island development presented in this paper not only explains well the configuration of the German barriers but also the morphology of barriers along many other mixed energy coasts.  相似文献   


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