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1.
沿岸流非线性不稳定特征数值研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
当不稳定剪切波的波幅达到有限幅值之后,需要用非线性不稳定模型来分析沿岸流不稳定运动特征。本文通过建立并验证沿岸流非线性不稳定数学模型,在讨论该模型参数对沿岸流不稳定影响的基础上,率定实验中的模型参数并利用该数学模型模拟了实验中沿岸流不稳定的发展过程及其特征,主要结论有:（1）底摩擦系数越小,侧混系数越小,不稳定发生的时间越早,不稳定的波动幅值越大;（2）沿岸流非线性不稳定演化可能出现的5个阶段（线性阶段、倍周期阶段、大周期阶段、波群阶段以及不规则阶段）,实验中出现的沿岸流通常处于线性阶段或非线性倍周期阶段,倍周期阶段的涡旋是由线性阶段的涡旋发生追赶、配对直至合并产生的。涡旋配对以碰撞的形式发生,大部分能量转移至追踪波,然后以较慢的涡旋速度沿岸传播。 相似文献
2.
本文以沿岸流不稳定运动实验中流速仪采集到的不规则波的流速时间历程为基础,利用相关性分析,得到两个不同位置处对应流速时间历程的最大相关系数和延迟时间,进而分析沿岸流不稳定运动在1∶40和1∶100平直斜坡上的传播方向,并且分析了其随入射波高、周期的变化。结果表明沿岸流不稳定运动在海岸垂向环流系统的作用下,其传播方向会向海方向偏移,与岸线角度大约在0°到45°之间,且在1∶40和1∶100坡情况下,沿岸流不稳定运动的偏移角分别随入射周期和波高的增加而增加,但1∶100坡的增加幅值较小,大约为1∶40坡情况下的1/2。 相似文献
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沿岸流不稳定运动属于超低频运动,研究它的传播特性,有助于深入理解其对岸滩演变、污染物、鱼卵等输移、迁移的影响。本文基于小波相干谱对所选实验波况进行了研究,分析了规则波、随机波入射情况下沿岸流不稳定运动传播特性,并讨论了入射波高、周期、坡度等对其的影响。结果表明,不规则波更易诱导出沿岸流不稳定运动,且在不规则波情况下,不稳定运动在沿岸方向相距4 m的两个断面上产生的相位差都约为±30°,与波浪入射角相近;随着入射波高的增加,非线性随之增强,更易诱导出不稳定运动,生成的沿岸流不稳定运动周期范围将增大;入射波周期对沿岸流不稳定运动的传播特性影响较小;坡度越陡越易诱导出超低频的不稳定运动。 相似文献
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采用完全非线性Boussinesq方程建立的FUNWAVE模型进行波生沿岸流数值模拟研究,通过对不同斜坡地形和波浪入射条件下波生流的物理模型实验结果进行比较,验证了该数值模型能较准确地计算沿岸流;通过改变波浪的不同入射条件,对不同入射条件的沿岸流数值模拟得出:当其他条件不变时,仅入射波高增大时,沿岸流的流幅和幅值增大,幅值位置向深水移动;仅增大入射周期时,沿岸流的流幅显著增加,幅值的增加较小;斜坡地形坡度的改变能显著影响波生沿岸流的流幅和幅值,但对沿岸流幅值位置的水深影响不大。采用窄缝法处理动边界时,选择合适的窄缝起始水深对沿岸流的准确计算是十分必要的。 相似文献
5.
沿岸流不稳定运动目前已成为一个研究热点,对于沿岸流不稳定的研究对于近岸泥沙、污染物输移以及海岸养护等都有很重要的意义。本文详细介绍了沿岸流不稳定运动的研究进展,具体包括沿岸流不稳定运动现场以及实验室实验研究进展,沿岸流线性不稳定理论,非线性不稳定理论以及沿岸流不稳定运动产生的其它理论分析。结果表明国外对于该问题的研究(主要是有关不稳定理论方面)已经取得很多成果,但国内目前很少,并且现在对沿岸流不稳定研究比较成熟的理论基础是不稳定理论,该理论都假定增长率最大的不稳定模式决定着沿岸流的波动特性。但对于多模式不稳定运动的研究还基本没有,对于沿岸流不稳定运动三维特性的研究(包括数值研究及实验研究)也基本没有报道。所以这两个方面可能是以后对该问题研究的重要方向。 相似文献
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波浪漫滩是近岸波浪的小尺度运动,在实际海域的波生流数值计算中通常被忽略。本文基于Boussinesq方程的FUNWAVE模式,分别采用波浪漫滩边界、固壁边界、海绵边界进行Haller波浪港池物理模型实验的数值模拟,比较三种边界计算结果与实验观测数据的误差,检验波浪漫滩边界对波生流数值计算的影响;然后设计了多种周期、波高的波生流数值模拟试验,分析多种波浪入射条件下波浪漫滩边界对近岸波生流数值计算的影响。结果表明,波浪漫滩对邻近区域波生流有明显影响,漫滩边界下的波生流计算结果更接近实验观测值,在近岸波生流数值模型中引入波浪漫滩边界可以提高波生流计算精度。 相似文献
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通过波浪水槽实验对大糙率礁面存在下珊瑚礁海岸附近规则波非线性特征参数(偏度、不对称度和厄塞尔数)的变化规律进行了研究。实验采用圆柱体阵列来模拟礁面的粗糙度,测试了一系列规则波工况。结果表明:偏度、不对称度和厄塞尔数的幅值分别在珊瑚礁破碎带结束位置、破碎带内和破碎带开始位置达到最大。3个参数的幅值均随着入射波波高的增大而增大;偏度值随着波浪周期的增大而减小,不对称度幅值和厄塞尔数随着周期的增大而增大;偏度值随着礁坪水深的增大而增大,不对称度幅值和厄塞尔数随着礁坪水深的增大而减小。深水厄塞尔数可以用来描述礁坪上波浪非线性参数的变化,最后给出了用其预测礁坪上3个非线性特征参数的经验关系式。 相似文献
10.
沙质海岸沿岸输沙率的数值模型 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
为了较为准确地计算沙质海岸沿岸输沙率,基于网格模型建立沙质海岸波浪的传播变化模型,根据求得的波高和波向分布特征,并考虑辐射应力等,计算波生流的分布.并在此基础上通过波浪最大底部轨道速度和沿岸流的分布特点,建立估算破波带内各网格单元上沿岸输沙率的分布模型. 相似文献
11.
A laboratory experiment on the instability of alongshore currents was conducted on a plane beach with slope 1:40. Low-frequency fluctuations of alongshore currents with the period of approximately 100 s were observed. The dominant frequency and amplitudes of the oscillations of alongshore currents were determined using the maximum entropy method and the regression method of trigonometric function. The variations across the beach cross-section of the oscillation amplitudes of the alongshore current were given. The linear shear instability theory was used to analyze the mechanism of the oscillation, and the calculated results agreed with measurements. This confirms that the observed fluctuation of alongshore currents is due to the shear instability of alongshore currents. 相似文献
12.
A laboratory experiment on alongshore currents was conducted for two plane beaches, with gradients 1:40 and 1:100, to investigate the instability of alongshore currents. Complicated and strongly unstable alongshore current motions were observed. In order to clearly examine the spatial and temporal variations of the shear instability of the currents, digital images from a charge-coupled device (CCD) recorded the deformations of dye batches released in the surf zone. Some essential characteristics of the shear instability were obtained from analyses of images showing the temporal variation of the dye patches.A high-resolution spectral analysis technique (the maximum entropy method, or MEM) was used to analyze the dominant frequency of the observed oscillation, along with the trigonometric regression method for determining the variations of the oscillation strength in the cross-shore direction. The propagation speed of the dye patch was obtained by tracking the movement over time of fixed locations in the dye patch, such as its peak, in the longshore direction. This data was then fitted linearly.Alongshore and cross-shore velocity time series acquired from sensors showed clearly that large-amplitude, long-period (about 50 s or 100 s) oscillations were present for all sensors deployed in the cross-shore direction under regular and irregular wave conditions. The analysis found that the maximum shear wave amplitude was approximately one-sixth of the maximum for the mean alongshore current, and occurred approximately at the position of the maximum of the mean alongshore current for irregular waves. The spatial structure of the shear waves was studied by analyzing collected images of the dye patches. The phase velocity of the meandering movements was obtained by measuring the magnitude of the oscillations of the dye patches in the alongshore direction with respect to time. The results suggest that the propagation speed of the shear instability was approximately one-half to three-quarters of the maximum mean longshore current for both regular and irregular waves.Linear instability analysis theory was applied to the characteristics of alongshore current instability, which suggested that there are two instability modes related to the observed oscillations: the frontshear mode observed for the 1:100 slope, and the backshear mode observed for the 1:40 slope. Theoretical analyses agreed with the experimental results in both cases. The velocity profile of the mean longshore current was found to affect the instability mode significantly, leading to further investigations on the influence of the velocity profiles and to provide support for the above conclusions. 相似文献
13.
A laboratory experiment on alongshore currents is conducted for two plane beaches with slopes 1:40 and 1:100 to investigate the instability of alongshore currents.The dye release experiment is also performed synchronously in surf zone.Complicated and strongly unstable motions of alongshore currents are observed in the experiment.To examine the spatial and temporal variations of the shear instabilities of longshore clearly,dye batches are released in surf zone.The deformation of the dye patch is observed efficiently and effectively with charge coupled device(CCD) system.Some essential characteristics of the shear instability are validated from the results of image analyses of the temporal variation of the dye patch.The influences of alongshore currents,Stokes drift,large-scale vorticity and the shear instabilities on the transport of dye are analyzed using the collected images.The spatial structure of the instabilities of longshore currents is studied by analyzing collected images of the dye patch.And the phase velocity of the meandering movements is obtained through measuring the movement distances of the oscillations of dye patch in alongshore direction with time.The results suggest that the propagation speed of the shear instability is approximately 50%-75% of maximum of mean alongshore currents for irregular and regular waves.The calculated propagation speed using a linear instability analysis theory is compared with the experimental results.The comparison shows agreements between them. 相似文献
14.
Dune erosion is shown to occur at the embayment of beach mega-cusps O(200 m alongshore) that are associated with rip currents. The beach is the narrowest at the embayment of the mega-cusps allowing the swash of large storm waves coincident with high tides to reach the toe of the dune, to undercut the dune and to cause dune erosion. Field measurements of dune, beach, and rip current morphology are acquired along an 18 km shoreline in southern Monterey Bay, California. This section of the bay consists of a sandy shoreline backed by extensive dunes, rising to heights exceeding 40 m. There is a large increase in wave height going from small wave heights in the shadow of a headland, to the center of the bay where convergence of waves owing to refraction over the Monterey Bay submarine canyon results in larger wave heights. The large alongshore gradient in wave height results in a concomitant alongshore gradient in morphodynamic scale. The strongly refracted waves and narrow bay aperture result in near normal wave incidence, resulting in well-developed, persistent rip currents along the entire shoreline.
The alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline are found significantly correlated with the alongshore variations in rip spacing at 95% confidence. The alongshore variations of the volume of dune erosion are found significantly correlated with alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline at 95% confidence. Therefore, it is concluded the mega-cusps are associated with rip currents and that the location of dune erosion is associated with the embayment of the mega-cusp. 相似文献
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The relative importance of radiation stress gradients and alongshore pressure gradients to surfzone dynamics is investigated using observations of water levels, waves, and flows measured onshore of a large ebb-tidal delta. Incident wave heights measured along the ~ 11-m depth contour varied about 10% over a 1.2-km alongshore transect, resulting in alongshore wave setup differences on the order of 10 cm over the 600-m extent of the surfzone instrument array in 1.5-m depth. Despite the moderate alongshore variability in wave heights, the southerly alongshore pressure gradient, associated with the alongshore variability of wave-driven set-up, was typically twice as large as the northerly radiation stress gradient forcing, consistent with the observed southerly currents during the week-long experiment. The magnitude of the alongshore forcing and resulting alongshore velocity is reproduced by the two-dimensional depth-averaged numerical model of Shi et al. (JGR-Oceans, 2011). These observations, together with the numerical results, indicate that moderate alongshore wave height gradients (O(10− 4)) outside the surfzone owing to alongshore variations in the offshore bathymetry can result in alongshore pressure gradients that are larger than radiation stress gradients. 相似文献
16.
An offshore shoal or bar refracts ocean surface waves and causes wave focusing/defocusing on the adjacent beach.Wave focal patterns characterized by alongshore variations in wave height, wave angle, and breaking location induce alongshore non-uniformities of wave setup and nearshore circulation, e.g., rip currents and alongshore currents, in the surfzone. A simplified analytic model for nearshore circulation generated by focused/defocused waves on a planar beach is developed and theoretical solutions are obtained using transport stream function and perturbations in alongshore distributions of wave height and wave angle at the breaker line. The analytic model suggests that alongshore currents are strongly affected by a pair of counter-rotating vortices generated shoreward of the wave focal zone. The vortices are persistent, and their strengths depend on the amplitudes of alongshore variations in wave height and wave angle. The alongshore gradient in wave height tends to intensify the vortices while the convergence of wave angle tends to weaken the vortices. Divergent flows associated with the vortices in the surfzone are intense,strengthening alongshore currents in the downstream of the wave focal zone and weakening alongshore currents or causing flows reversal in the upstream. Alongshore currents are modulated by rip currents associated with the wave focusing/defocusing patterns. 相似文献
17.
Sediment-level oscillations with heights of about 6 cm and shore-normal lengths of order 10 m have been measured in the swash zone of a high-energy, coarse-sand beach. Crests of oscillations were shore parallel and continuous alongshore. The oscillations were of such low steepness (height-to-length ratio approximately 0.006) that they were difficult to detect visually. The period of oscillation ranged between 6 and 15 min and decreased landward across the swash zone. The sediment-level oscillations were progressive landward with an average migration rate in the middle to upper swash zone of 0.8 m min−1. Migration was caused mostly by erosion on the seaward flank of the crest of an oscillation during a period of net seaward sediment transport. Thus, the observed migration was a form migration landward rather than a migration involving net landward sediment transport. The observed sediment-level oscillations were different than sand waves or other swash-zone bedforms previously described. 相似文献
18.
A. A. Kurkin E. N. Pelinovsky O. E. Poloukhina 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2006,42(3):353-361
Within the framework of the linear shallow-water theory, the dynamics of edge waves over a shelf characterized by a cylindrical bottom relief is investigated under the assumption that shelf parameters vary slowly in the alongshore direction. An asymptotic theory and an energy approach are used to calculate the amplitude of the edge wave. In the analytic form, the results are obtained for shelves of three different profiles with parameters varying along the shore: an infinite linear profile, a concave exponential profile, and a stepwise profile. 相似文献
19.
Long-term monthly sea level and sea surface temperature (SST) anomalies from central California show that during winter months, positive anomalies are associated with El Niño events and the negative ones with La Niña events. There is no significant impact on monthly mean anomalies associated with Pacific decadal oscillations, although there is a tendency for more extreme events and greater variance during positive decadal oscillations. The very strong 1997–1998 El Niño was analyzed with respect to the long-term historic record to assess the forcing mechanisms for sea level and SST. Beginning in the spring of 1997, we observed several long-period (>30 days) fluctuations in daily sea level with amplitudes of over 10 cm at San Francisco, California. Fluctuations of poleward long-period alongshore wind stress anomalies (AWSA) are coherent with the sea level anomalies. However, the wind stress cannot entirely account for the observed sea level signals. The sea level fluctuations are also correlated with sea level fluctuations observed further south at Los Angeles and Tumaco, Columbia, which showed a poleward phase propagation of the sea level signal. We suggest that the sea level fluctuations were, to a greater degree, forced by the passage of remotely generated and coastally trapped waves that were generated along the equator and propagated to the north along the west coast of North America. However, both local and remote AWSA can significantly modulate the sea level signals. The arrival of coastally trapped waves began in the spring of 1997, which is earlier than previous strong El Niño events such as the 1982–1983 event. 相似文献
20.
Sea-level observations made during December, 1979, at six stations in Great South Bay (which is a coastal lagoon on the south shore of Long Island, New York) reveal that there were significant subtidal fluctuations in addition to the tidal oscillations. Harmonic analysis of the tidal oscillations of sea level indicates that M2 is the dominant tidal constituent. The M2 amplitude, however, suffered a more than 50% reduction in the interior of the Bay due largely to the narrow inlet. The subtidal sea level fluctuations within the Bay were forced primarily by the low-frequency fluctuations of the adjacent shelf water. The active subtidal exchange induced by this Bay-shelf coupling appeared to have suffered only minor attenuation within the Bay. As a consequence, the variance associated with subtidal sea level fluctuations was greater than that associated with the tidal oscillations over most of Great South Bay. 相似文献