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1.
《Marine Geology》2004,203(1-2):109-118
Spatial variations in sediment load in the swash uprush and textural properties of sediment in transport were evaluated to investigate the mechanisms responsible for sediment transport during wave uprush. Four streamer traps were deployed at 2.0-m intervals across the swash zone of a sheltered, microtidal sandy beach at Port Beach, Western Australia, over a 4-day period. During these trapping experiments, offshore significant wave heights were 0.3–0.5 m and wave periods were about 10 s. The average width of the uprush zone was 6.9 m and the average uprush duration was 5.9 s. Cross-shore distributions of sediment load for 70 uprush events reveal a maximum in sediment load landward of the base of the swash (at about 20% of swash width) during single events and a maximum closer to mid-swash (at about 40% of swash width) during multiple events characterized by swash interactions. Settling velocity distributions of trap samples during individual uprush events are similar to distributions found on the beach surface, with the lowest settling velocities (finest sediments) near the base of the swash zone and maximum settling velocities (coarsest sediments) around the mid-swash position. It was found that sediment transport during wave uprush occurs through two distinct mechanisms: (1) sediment entrainment during bore collapse seaward of the base of the swash zone and subsequent advection of this bore-entrained sediment up the beach by wave uprush; and (2) in situ sediment entrainment and transport induced by local shear stresses during wave uprush. Both mechanisms are considered important, but the first mechanism is considered most significant during the early stages of wave uprush when sediment is transported mainly in suspension, while the second mechanism is likely to dominate the mid- to later stages of wave uprush when sediment is transported mainly by sheet flow. The relative importance of the two mechanisms will vary between different beaches with the morphodynamic state of the beach (reflective versus dissipative) expected to play a major role. 相似文献
2.
Novel laboratory experiments and numerical modelling have been performed to study the advection scales of suspended sediment in the swash zone. An experiment was designed specifically to measure only the sediment picked up seaward of the swash zone and during bore collapse. The advection scales and settling of this sediment were measured during the uprush along a rigid sediment-free beach face by a sediment trap located at varying cross-shore positions. Measurements were made using a number of repeated solitary broken waves or bores. Approximately 25% of the pre-suspended sediment picked up by the bores reaches the mid-swash zone (50% of the horizontal run-up distance), indicating the importance of the sediment advection in the lower swash zone. The pre-suspended sediment is sourced from a region seaward of the shoreline (still water line) which has a width of about 20% of the run-up distance. An Eulerian–Lagrangian numerical model is used to model the advection scales of the suspended sediment. The model resolves the hydrodynamics by solving the non-linear shallow water equations in an Eulerian framework and then solves the advection–diffusion equation for turbulence and suspended sediment in a Lagrangian framework. The model provides good estimates of the measured mass and distribution of sediment advected up the beach face. The results suggest that the correct modelling of turbulence generation prior to and during bore collapse and the advection of the turbulent kinetic energy into the lower swash is important in resolving the contribution of pre-suspended sediment to the net sediment transport in the swash zone. 相似文献
3.
利用涌浪影响下短时段内的冲流带滩面高频高程数据和碎波带波流资料,在奇异谱分析(SSA)的基础上,以比研究了不同形态滩面的冲淤变化趋势、趋势分布形状、冲淤变化周期和冲淤变化强度,以及同一条剖面不同桩点间各因素间的变化关系;用交叉谱方法探索了每分钟滩面高频冲淤变化与碎波带长重力波间的作用关系.分析结果表明,滩角韵律地形引起的冲流分流作用促进了滩脊向滩谷的泥沙转运,冲流带滩面存在明显的长重力波频段的周期性冲淤振动,滩面冲淤振动强度由滩面下部向上部递减,碎波带长重力波对滩面高频冲淤变化起重要作用. 相似文献
4.
海滩冲流带高频振动地形动力过程分析 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
在粤东汕尾后江湾海滩冲流带布设2条观测剖面,共计6个观测点,对滩面冲流带在约一个潮周期内的高频振动进行了观测,取得采样频率分别为1min/次和6min/次的滩面数据各1组.结合同步观测的碎波带波浪潮汐数据,分析探讨了海滩高频振动特征.分析认为在涌浪条件下,滩面高频振动的日内变化主要受到潮位变化过程的控制,涨潮堆积,落潮侵蚀.利用交叉谱分析的结果表明滩面高程变化滞后于潮位变化.滩面下部比上部振动幅度大,变化复杂,滩角脊部比凹部活跃.波群对滩面高频振动有显著影响,特别是波高大于有效波高的波群.滩面高频振动没有表现出明显的泥沙逐渐向陆地堆积过程,有一定的振动周期. 相似文献
5.
Hydrodynamic and sediment transport measurements from instrumentation deployed during a 54-day winter period at two sites on the Louisiana inner shelf are presented. Strong extratropical storms, with wind speeds of 7.8 to 15.1 m s-1, were the dominant forcing mechanism during the study. These typically caused mean oscillatory flows and shear velocities about 33% higher than fair weather (averaging 12.3 and 3.2 cm s-1 at the landward site, and 11.4 and 2.7 cm s-1 at the seaward site, respectively). These responses were coupled with mean near-bottom currents more than twice as strong as during fair weather (10.3 and 7.5 cm s-1 at the landward and seaward sites, respectively). These flowed in approximately the same direction as the veering wind, causing a net offshore transport of fine sand. Weak storms were responsible for little sediment transport whereas during fair weather, onshore sand transport of approximately 25-75% of the storm values appears to have occurred. This contradicts previous predictions of negligible fair-weather sediment movement on this inner shelf. 相似文献
6.
利用涌浪影响下短时段内的冲流带滩面高频高程数据和碎波带波流资料,在奇异谱分析(SSA)的基础上,对比研究了不同形态滩面的冲淤变化趋势、趋势分布形状、冲淤变化周期和冲淤变化强度,以及同一条剖面不同桩点间各因素间的变化关系;用交叉谱方法探索了每分钟滩面高频冲淤变化与碎波带长重力波间的作用关系。分析结果表明,滩角韵律地形引起的冲流分流作用促进了滩脊向滩谷的泥沙转运,冲流带滩面存在明显的长重力波频段的周期性冲淤振动,滩面冲淤振动强度由滩面下部向上部递减,碎波带长重力波对滩面高频冲淤变化起重要作用。 相似文献
7.
潮沟系统水沙输运研究——以长江口崇明东滩为例 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
本研究以崇明东滩2015年4月实测潮间带水沙数据为基础,分析了潮沟、盐沼及光滩的水沙特征,重点研究了潮沟系统及邻近潮滩潮周期内悬沙通量情况。结果表明:（1）潮沟表层沉积物比潮滩细,二者平均中值粒径分别为21.7 μm和33.0 μm,悬沙粒径由海向陆逐渐变小;（2）大、小潮沟潮周期内潮流均以往复流为主,垂向平均流速分别为15.4 cm/s和34.6 cm/s;盐沼界和光滩则以旋转流为主,平均流速分别为11.3 cm/s和28.9 cm/s;（3）潮沟中的高悬沙浓度出现在涨潮初期,最大可达7.5 kg/m3,而潮滩高悬沙浓度则出现在潮落潮中期和高水位时刻;大、小潮沟和盐沼界站涨潮阶段平均悬沙浓度大于落潮阶段,光滩站则相反。潮沟悬沙主要来自邻近水域,而潮滩悬沙则与滩面表层沉积物密切相关;（4）潮沟在潮周期内净输沙方向均指向滩地,大潮沟潮周期单宽净输沙量可达4.0 t/m;盐沼界处垂直岸线和沿岸输沙强度相近,净输沙由海向陆,潮周期离岸输沙强度为1.0 t/m;光滩沿岸输沙强度远大于垂直岸线输沙,光滩净输沙由陆向海。研究揭示了潮间带潮沟系统的强供沙能力以及研究区域光滩冲蚀,盐沼植被带淤积的动力地貌过程。 相似文献
8.
Estimates of time-integrated values of total (ITVF) and net (INVF) sediment volume flux and the associated changes in bed elevation and local slope were determined for a crescentic outer nearshore bar in Kouchibouguac Bay, New Brunswick, Canada, for eight discrete storm events. A 100 × 150 m grid of depth-of-activity rods spaced at 10 m intervals was used to monitor sediment behaviour on the seaward slope, bar crest and landward slope during the storms, at which time winds, incident waves and near-bed oscillatory currents were measured. Comparisons between storm events and between these events and a longer-term synthetic wave climatology were facilitated using hindcast wave parameters. Strong positive correlations between storm-wave conditions (significant height and total cumulative energy) and total volume flux contrasted strongly with the zero correlation between storm-wave conditions and net volume flux. ITVF values ranged up to 1646 m3 for the experimental grid and were found to have power function relations with significant wave height (exponent 2) and cumulative wave wave energy (exponent 0.4); values of INVF ranged from 0 up to 100 m3 for the same grid indicating a balance of sediment volume in the bar form through time. Sediment reactivation increased linearly with decreasing depth across the seaward slope and bar crest reaching maxima of 20 cm for the two largest storms; bed elevation, and thus slope, changes were restricted to the bar crest and upper landward slope with near zero morphological change on the seaward slope. The latter represents a steady-state equilibrium with null net transport of sediment under shoaling waves. Measurements of the asymmetry of orbital velocities close to the bed show that the energetics approach to predicting beach slope of Inman and Bagnold (1963) is sound. Gradients predicted vary from 0.01 to 0.03 for a range of angles of internal friction appropriate to the local sediment (tan ø = 0.3–0.6). These compare favorably with the measured seaward slope of 0.015 formed under average maximum orbital velocities of 1.12 m s−1 (landward) and 1.09 m s−1 (seaward) recorded during the period of the largest storm waves. 相似文献
9.
In May of 2005, an observational program was carried out to investigate the along channel hydrodynamics and suspended sediment transport patterns at North Inlet, South Carolina. Along channel variability, which is important in establishing sediment transport pathways, has not been characterized for this system. Measurements of water column currents, salinity, bed sediment, suspended sediment concentration, and particle size distribution were obtained over a complete tidal cycle along the thalweg of the inlet entrance. Along channel currents, shear stress and bed sediment distributions vary significantly in space and time along a 3 km section bracketing the inlet throat. Most of the variability is consistent with geomorphic controls such as bed elevation variability and channel width. The highest velocities, shear stresses, suspended sediment concentration and bed sediment grain size are observed in the narrowest section of the inlet throat. Magnitudes systematically decrease along the channel toward the marsh as changes in channel geometry and branching reduces flow energy. Due to tidal asymmetry, the ebb phase contains significantly higher currents and associated sediment transport. Over the complete tidal cycle, depth integrated transport is directed towards the marsh landward of the intersection of Town and Debidue Creek. In contrast, net transport is out of the inlet seaward of this intersection. Sediment grain size distributions show 35% more material less than 63 μm on flood, suggesting net landward transport of fines. 相似文献
10.
Li Jiufa 《海洋学报(英文版)》1991,10(1):117-127
The Nanhui tidal flat is located in the area of slow current where the ebb currents from the Changjiang Estuaryand the Hangzhou Bay converge and the flood current from the sea diverges into the estuary and the bay. The flat extends seaward in tongue shape and has a wide and gentle surface with a marked difference of tidal levels on its two sides, which results in the sediment longitudinal transport on the flat. The water-sediment conditions are diverse at different locations. The velocity and sediment concentration in intertidal zone are higher during the flood tide than those during the ebb tide. The net sediment transport is landward, resulting in a large amount of deposition of sediments on the shoal. However, the ebb current is the dominant one in deep-water area where the net sediment transport is seaward. There exist two circulation systems in plane view on the shoal and in its adjacent deep-water area, which results in the sediment exchanges between the flat and channel and between the estuary an 相似文献
11.
Jackson O. Blanton Harvey Seim Clark Alexander Julie Amft Gail Kineke 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2003,57(5-6):993-1006
This study describes the transport of salt and suspended sediment in a curving reach of a shallow mesotidal coastal plain estuary. Circulation data revealed a subtidal upstream bottom flow during neap tide, indicating the presence of a gravitational circulation mode throughout the channel. During spring tide, landward bottom flow weakened considerably at the upstream end of the channel and changed to seaward in the middle and downstream areas of the reach, suggesting the importance of tidal pumping. Salt flux near-bottom was landward at both ends of the channel during neap tide. At spring, however, the salt flux diverged along the bottom of the thalweg suggesting that tidal pumping caused a transfer of salt vertically and laterally into the intertidal zone. Thus, landward flux of salt is maintained even in the presence of subtidal seaward flow along the bottom at the downstream end of the channel.Landward bottom stress is greater than seaward stress, preferentially transporting suspended sediments upstream. Compared with salt, however, the weight of the suspended sediments causes less upward transfer of sediments into the intertidal zone. Flood flow carried more suspended sediments landward at the upstream end compared with the downstream end. We speculate that secondary flow in the curving channel picks up increasing amounts of suspended sediments along the sides during flood and adds them to the axial flow in the thalweg. Since the landward flow along the bottom of the thalweg weakens and even reverses during spring tide, there appears to be a complex re-circulation system for sediments re-suspended in curving channels that complicates the picture of a net transport of sediments landward. 相似文献
12.
《Marine Geology》2005,216(3):169-189
Simultaneous high frequency field measurements of water depth, flow velocity and suspended sediment concentration were made at three fixed locations across the high tide swash and inner surf zones of a dissipative beach. The dominant period of the swash motion was 30–50 s and the results are representative of infragravity swash motion. Suspended sediment concentrations, loads and transport rates in the swash zone were almost one order of magnitude greater than in the inner surf zone. The vertical velocity gradient near the bed and the resulting bed shear stress at the start of the uprush was significantly larger than that at the end of the backwash, despite similar flow velocities. This suggests that the bed friction during the uprush was approximately twice that during the backwash.The suspended sediment profile in the swash zone can be described reasonably well by an exponential shape with a mixing length scale of 0.02–0.03 m. The suspended sediment transport flux measured in the swash zone was related to the bed shear stress through the Shields parameter. If the bed shear stress is derived from the vertical velocity gradient, the proportionality coefficient between shear stress and sediment transport rate is similar for the uprush and the backwash. If the bed shear stress is estimated using the free-stream flow velocity and a constant friction factor, the proportionality factor for the uprush is approximately twice that of the backwash. It is suggested that the uprush is a more efficient transporter of sediment than the backwash, because the larger friction factor during the uprush causes larger bed shear stresses for a given free-stream velocity. This increased transport competency of the uprush is necessary for maintaining the beach, otherwise the comparable strength and greater duration of the backwash would progressively remove sediment from the beach. 相似文献
13.
This paper describes newly obtained, high-frequency observations of beach face morphological change over numerous tidal cycles on a macrotidal sandy beach made using a large array of ultrasonic altimeters. These measurements enable the net cross-shore sediment fluxes associated with many thousands of individual swash events to be quantified. It is revealed that regardless of the direction of net morphological change on a tidal time scale, measured net fluxes per event are essentially normally distributed, with nearly equal numbers of onshore and offshore-directed events. The majority of swash events cause net cross-shore sediment fluxes smaller than ± 50 kg m− 1 and the mean sediment flux per swash event is only O(± 1 kg m− 1) leading to limited overall morphological change. However, much larger events which deposit or remove hundreds of kilograms of sand per meter width of beach occur at irregular intervals throughout the course of a tide. It was found that swash–swash interactions tend to increase the transport potential of a swash event and the majority of the swash events that cause these larger values of sediment flux include one or more interactions. The majority of the larger sediment fluxes were therefore measured in the lower swash zone, close to the surf/swash boundary where swash–swash interactions are most common. Despite the existence of individual swash events that can cause fluxes of sediment that are comparable to those observed on a tidal time scale, frequent reversals in transport direction act to limit net transport such that the beach face volume remains in a state of dynamic equilibrium and does not rapidly erode or accrete. 相似文献
14.
根据历史资料、数据和相关研究,结合研究区域背景,分析苏北废黄河三角洲的演变。结果显示,岸线演变在发育阶段和侵蚀阶段分别为向海延伸约90 km和侵蚀后退约22 km,面积相差约800 km2,三角洲地貌演变表现为岸线平直-曲折-平滑-平直的过程。在废三角洲陆海相互作用的基础上,运用演化模式分析三角洲的演变过程。该三角洲演变可以分为7个演变阶段,发育期在径流和潮流作用下以沙洲并陆淤积延伸方式进行,侵蚀期在波浪和潮流作用下以沙洲合并侵蚀后退和淤积外长交替侵蚀的方式。泥沙输运、人类活动和气候变化对废三角洲的演变有重要影响,巨量的来沙是三角洲发育的原因,泥沙平衡被打破是侵蚀的主要原因。发育期中,泥沙输运影响淤积速度和位置,人类活动和气候变化影响黄河河道迁移、输沙量和产沙量;侵蚀期中,泥沙输运影响侵蚀状态,人类活动在一定程度上影响海岸带冲/淤,气候变化将影响三角洲的演变趋势。 相似文献
15.
《Marine Geology》2007,236(1-2):45-59
Titanomagnetite forms rich placer deposits along the northwest coast of New Zealand. These deposits were sampled along 3 shore-normal transects spaced over the southern 2 km of a dissipative high-energy beach on the west coast in 5 field campaigns covering one year. The percentage of opaque minerals (mainly titanomagnetite) was extremely high in the upper 30 m of the beach face, extending seaward where these opaque minerals were gradually replaced with variable amounts of lighter augite, hornblende and plagioclase. The pattern appeared to be divided into two regions, a lower seaward and an upper landward region, separated by a point where either marine dominated over aeolian processes or where swash dominated over breaking processes. In the seaward region, the percentage of opaques increased and particle size fined landward as undertow removed the lighter larger particles seaward. In the landward region, the percentage of opaques and particle size were more constant, or even showed the reverse pattern as wind transported the lighter material shoreward, or swash asymmetry transported the heavier material seaward. The similarity of settling velocities over the whole beach face suggests that sorting by size rather than weight plays a dominant role in separating the mineral assemblages. Considerable variations existed between transects. This could be explained by the spatial changes in surfzone waves and currents that were associated with proximity to the southern headland and various rip current channels that characterised this dissipative site. Surprisingly, the percentage of opaques decreased when the wave conditions of the day of sampling were more energetic. In contrast to many other placer deposits, these deposits are abundant on the beach face, forming an armouring layer during lower wave energy conditions. During higher wave conditions, the surface layer erodes allowing lighter augite, plagioclase and hornblende to be released from the sediments below. 相似文献
16.
New laboratory and field data are presented on fluid advection into the swash zone. The data illustrate the region of the inner surf zone from which sediment can be directly advected into the swash zone during a single uprush, which is termed the advection length. Experiments were conducted by particle tracking in a Lagrangian reference frame, and were performed for monochromatic breaking waves, solitary bores, non-breaking solitary waves and field conditions. The advection length is normalised by the run-up length to give an advection ratio, A, and different advection ratios are identified on the basis of the experimental data. The data show that fluid enters the swash zone from a region of the inner surf zone that can extend a distance seaward of the bore collapse location that is approximately equal to half of the run-up length. This region is about eight times wider than the region predicted by the classical swash solution of Shen and Meyer [Shen, M.C., Meyer, R.E., 1963. Climb of a bore on a beach. Part 3. Runup. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 16, 113–125], as illustrated by Pritchard and Hogg [Pritchard, D., Hogg, A.J., 2005. On the transport of suspended sediment by a swash event on a plane beach. Coastal Engineering 52, 1–23]. Measured advection ratios for periodic waves show no significant trend with Iribarren number, consistent with self-similarity in typical swash flows. The data are compared to recent characteristic solutions of the non-linear shallow water wave (NLSW) equations and both finite difference and finite volume solutions of the NLSW equations. 相似文献
17.
近岸海床冲淤变化直接反映海区地貌稳定状态,由此影响海区物质迁移及水运资源可持续利用。基于此,本研究通过选择苍南海域不同时期的海图资料,基于ArcGIS平台探讨该海域多尺度海床冲淤过程,为研究区海岸港工建筑规划与评估提供理论指导。主要研究结果包括：苍南海域海床冲淤变化大致分为四个阶段,即1931—1970年大幅淤积,海床净淤积量达到169.47×106m3,淤积强度为5.18 cm/a;1971—2005年海床淤积幅度减弱,海床净淤积量为12.24×106m3,淤积强度为0.41 cm/a;2006—2009年海床由淤转冲,海床净冲刷量为14.70×106m3,冲刷强度为3.60 cm/a;2010—2017年海床持续冲刷,海床净冲刷量为10.17×106m3,冲刷强度为1.33 cm/a。除1931—1970年10 m等深线向海大幅扩张以及1971—2005年10 m等深线有部分向海扩张外,1971—2017年5 m与10 m等深线普遍向陆后退。2006—2017年,位于北关港内的2 m等深线也向陆后退。冲淤结果显示,苍南海域海床未来可能呈现弱侵蚀态势。其中,风暴潮频发导致海床经常性失稳加之长江入海泥沙的减少导致该区域泥沙补给不足,二者共同作用可能是该区域海床由淤积逐渐转为侵蚀的主导因素。 相似文献
18.
19.
开展枯季河口悬沙输运机理研究对于揭示弱径流条件下的陆海相互作用、河口季节性冲淤和水沙关系等具有重要的科学意义.本文根据2018年12月18-25日长江口南槽3个站位连续13个潮周期的同步流速、流向和悬沙浓度等观测资料,运用通量机制分解法研究了各输沙项的特征、贡献和输运机理.结果 表明,从小潮至大潮流速和悬沙浓度不断增加,由南槽上部至下部流速和悬沙浓度逐渐降低.观测期间平均流速与平均悬沙浓度存在明显的正线性关系,但受底质空间差异影响,悬沙浓度对流速的响应强度存在显著的空间变化.枯季期间南槽存在着中上部向陆净输沙、下部向海净输沙的空间输运格局.平流输沙和潮泵输沙是影响和控制净输沙的关键因素,二者的强度和贡献存在明显的潮周期变化和空间变化,垂向环流输沙的强度很弱,对净输沙贡献很小.南槽涨落潮输沙不对称现象明显,流速、悬沙浓度和历时都具有一定的涨落潮不对称性,这些不对称现象共同调节和控制着潮周期净输沙强度和方向的时空变化. 相似文献
20.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(2):119-137
The autonomous nearshore bar behaviour along the barrier island of Terschelling, The Netherlands, is characterised by the presence of net seaward cyclic migrating sand bars generated near the shoreline. In 1993, a perturbation of the cyclic bar system was introduced by the implementation of a 2 Mm3 shoreface nourishment supplied to the nearshore bar zone, filling up the trough between the middle and outer bar. The morphodynamic response of the nearshore bars to the nourishment perturbation is investigated using a bathymetric data set with an alongshore extent of 12 km and sampled for 10 years. Bar behaviour is quantified in terms of bar crest position in relation to morphometric parameters such as bar depth, height, width and volume. Along with a pronounced development of a three-dimensional bar system unseen in the autonomous behaviour, the nearshore bars exhibited a 6–7 year arrest in their migrational behaviour during which bar morphology remained stable at immediate pre-nourishment morphometric values. At the subsequent onset of bar movement, bars resumed their migration at a rate predicted by autonomous behaviour in parallel development with morphometric parameters along their predicted trends. It is shown that the observed onshore transport of nourished sediment in the 6–7 year arrest results from a gradual deepening of troughs. Cross-shore sediment transport modelling is used to assess the effect of the nourishment on yearly averaged onshore (short-wave nonlinearity) and offshore (undertow) sediment transport rates. The gradual reappearance of the pre-nourishment bar-trough morphology is shown to engender a normalisation in the cross-shore distribution of sediment transport rates to pre-nourishment rates. 相似文献