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1.
岬湾相间的琼州海峡南岸在海岸动力条件作用下,岸滩发生侵蚀或堆积,特别是南岸中部的南渡江三角洲沿岸岸滩演变剧烈。该文从海岸动力地貌的角度,对琼州海峡南岸的海岸动力特征、泥沙运动以及岸滩演变进行分析。根据海峡南部三维潮流场数值模拟结果,结合经验公式初步分析潮流引起的泥沙运移速率和方向,得到岸外水域总的泥沙运移趋势为从西向东。根据波浪动力计算分析沿岸泥沙运移,探讨沙质岸滩的动态与地貌演变之间的关系,得出海峡南岸海岸地貌演变与盛行的NE和NNE向风浪有密切关系,岸滩的演变过程主要受制于这两个方向的风浪及其引起的泥沙沿岸运移。 相似文献
2.
Rivers draining into the Gulf of Papua (GOP) from the Papua New Guinea mainland deliver approximately 340 × 106 t yr–1 of sediment to the marine environment. The terrestrially derived sediment contains 1.1 ± 0.2% particulate organic carbon with a carbon-isotope composition of –26.5 ± 0.2, and amounts to 3.7 ± 0.7 × 106 t yr–1. The carbon-isotope composition of sediments in the Gulf of Papua indicates that 40% of the sediment cover contains 75% or more terrestrially derived carbon. Suspended sediments that are transported beyond the delta complex of the Fly River are transported north and northwest, augmented by sediments from other rivers along the coast of the GOP. The carbon-isotope results suggest that a significant quantity of terrestrially derived sediment escapes from the GOP, either along the coastlines to east and west or into the deep ocean via the Moresby and Pandora troughs. Little sediment travels south onto the Great Barrier Reef shelf. Extrapolating the results from this study to the region of Oceania suggests a total flux of particulate organic carbon to the world's oceans from the islands of Oceania of ~ 90 × 106 t yr–1 or twice the flux of riverine POC from the major rivers of North America, South America, and Africa combined. While such a calculation must be considered illustrative only, the similar tectonic, geomorphologic, and climatic features of the islands of Oceania suggest that the calculation is unlikely to be grossly in error and that the rivers of Oceania therefore represent a major but poorly documented source of sediment and organic carbon to the global ocean. 相似文献
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Sediment supply and pre-existing shoreline morphology are crucial factors in controlling coastal changes due to sea-level rise. Using examples from both southeast and northeast Ireland, it can be shown that sea-level change may trigger a sequence of events which leads to both static and dynamic shoreline equilibrium. Cliff erosion and longshore sediment movement in east Co. Wexford has led to injection of sediment onto the shelf, and the growth, under both wave and tide regimes, of linear offshore shoals. These shoals now control the pattern of shoreline erosion and provide a template for possible stepwise evolution of the coast under any future sea-level rise. In contrast, the nearby coast of south Co. Wexford comprises a series of coarse clastic barriers moving monotonously onshore, via overwash processes. Here the behavior of the barrier is conditioned by the antecedent morphology of both the beach face and stream outlet bedforms. Finally, the rock platform coast of Co. Antrim presents a far more resistant shoreline to incident marine processes, yet even here there is strong evidence of present process control over so-called ‘raised’ platforms and embayments. It is concluded that coastal sediment supply and dynamics, together with coastal morphology and its interaction with waves, present a far more complex variety of sea-level indicators than is normally acknowledged. 相似文献
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We investigate an overlooked mechanism—coastal upwelling—for sea surface temperature (SST) cooling in the western side of the mean location of the Pacific warm pool (WSWP: 5°S–5°N, 140°E–150°E) prior to El Niño onset. We analyze various observed data such as the TRIangle Trans-Ocean buoy Network (TRITON) moored buoy data, Conductivity-Temperature-Depth (CTD) data, satellite data and a hindcast experiment output by a high-resolution ocean general circulation model (OGCM). We focus on the precondition of the 2002/03 El Niño event, for which many datasets are available. Relatively cool water upwelled along the north coast of Papua New Guinea (PNG) during December 2001, prior to the onset of the 2002/03 El Niño event, and then spread out over a wider area to the northeast. Simultaneously, strong west-northerly surface winds occur along the north coast. Heat budget analysis of TRITON buoy data in the WSWP reveals that negative zonal heat advection due to eastward current is the main factor for cooling the mixed layer in the WSWP in contrast to the warming effect of the surface heat flux during the period. This cooling requires a source of colder water to the west. Similar analysis of OGCM outputs also suggests that the upwelled relatively cool water along the PNG north coast, and its northeastward extension to the equatorial region, contributes to cooling of the surface water over the WSWP mainly via negative zonal heat advection. Similar mechanisms are confirmed also for the 1982/83 and 1997/98 El Niño events by analyses of OGCM outputs and historical SST data. The low SST in the WSWP generated a positive zonal SST gradient together with high SST east of the WSWP. It may contribute to enhancement of the westerly surface wind in this region, leading to the onset of the 2002/03 El Niño event. 相似文献
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东海岛是全国第五大岛,其东部长达28km的海滩是"中国第一长滩"。近年来因海平面上升和人类开发,该海滩局部出现较为严重的海岸侵蚀。基于高精度GPS监测结果及表层沉积物粒度测试结果,使用GSTA趋势分析模型,研究了东海岛东北部砂质岸滩的季节性冲淤变化及沉积物运移趋势,探讨了海岸侵蚀机制。结果表明,研究区岸滩沉积物的运移主要受潮流的控制,以沿岸向北运移为主。研究区南部岸滩紧邻低滩灯塔形成的波影区,沉积物供应较少,岸滩以侵蚀为主;研究区北部沿岸流搬运的沉积物能从南侧得到补给,加之向岸运移的沉积物,岸滩多处于淤积状态。 相似文献
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厦门岛海滩剖面对9914号台风大浪波动力的快速响应 总被引：17，自引：1，他引：17
根据 9914号台风发生前后对厦门岛滨岸海滩剖面地形的重复测量结果及有关台风要素和潮位的实测资料 ,探讨了台风袭击厦门岛期间海滩的变形特征和侵蚀状态。分析得出 ,海滩地形受台风暴浪冲击普遍发生急剧变化。横向冲淤变形以东岸海滩为最剧烈 :滩肩蚀退可达 2 5m ;滩面呈上冲下淤 ,上段和滩肩的单宽冲蚀量达 30m3 /m ;下段单宽淤积量达 17m3 /m ;剖面类型由滩肩式断面向沙坝式断面转变。这种变形特点是在台风大浪波动力和潮位暴涨的双重作用下造成的。台风期间 ,沿岸输沙能力以北岸最高 ,南岸次之 ,东岸较低 ;且自南岸到东岸 ,随着沿岸输沙量减少 ,横向变形相应有增大的趋势。这是9914号台风以偏东方向袭击厦门的结果。表明不同方向海岸岸滩地形对同一台风大浪波动力作用具有不同响应特征。 相似文献
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Masaki Kawabe 《Journal of Oceanography》1986,42(3):174-191
Transitions between the three typical paths of the Kuroshio south of Japan (the nearshore and offshore non-large-meander paths and the large-meander path) are described using sea level data at Miyake-jima and HachijÔ-jima in the Izu Islands and temperature data at a depth of 200 m observed from 1964 to 1975 and in 1980.In transitions between the nearshore and offshore non-large-meander paths the variation of the Kuroshio path occurs first in the region off Enshû-nada between the Kii Peninsula and the Izu Ridge and subsequently over the ridge. In the nearshore to offshore transition the offshore displacement of the path occurs first off Enshû-nada and then develops southeastwardly in the direction of HachijÔ-jima. In the reverse transition shoreward displacement occurs first off Enshû-nada and then throughout the region west and east of the Izu Ridge. The position of the Kuroshio south of Cape Shiono-misaki (the southernmost tip of the Kii Peninsula) is almost fixed near the coast throughout these transition periods, and significant variations of the Kuroshio path only occur east of the cape. The nearshore to offshore and offshore to nearshore transitions can be estimated to take about 25 and 35 days, respectively, during which the variation of the Kuroshio path over the Izu Ridge occurs for the last 11 and 25 days.The transitions between the non-large-meander and large-meander paths show that the large-meander path is mostly formed from the nearshore non-large-meander path and always changes to the offshore non-large-meander path. 相似文献
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辽东半岛东岸近海泥区悬沙浓度的时空分布及控制因素分析 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
鸭绿江作为典型的中小型河流，细颗粒沉积物从鸭绿江流域到辽东半岛东岸近海泥区的源汇过程有着独特的机制，而遥感解译是了解入海沉积物在河口-陆架输运过程和机制的有效手段之一。因此，本文通过在辽东半岛东岸海域进行了现场悬沙浓度测量，并与GOCI影像建立关系，反演了该地区2011年4月至2017年3月间的表层悬沙浓度，从而揭示了该海域表层悬沙浓度的时空特征，分析了潮流、大风天气和洪水对悬沙浓度变化的影响，在此基础上探讨了研究区的悬沙浓度输运格局。结果显示，研究区表层悬沙浓度空间差异大，河口附近是悬沙浓度高值区，可达500 g/m3以上，其他区域则悬沙浓度多小于20 g/m3。另外，研究区表层悬沙浓度枯季高，洪季低，有着显著的季节性变化。进一步分析表明，枯季大风天气引起的风浪作用增强，是导致表层悬沙浓度增高的主要原因；洪季虽然悬沙浓度较低，但流域洪水期间的悬沙浓度显著增加。此外，作为典型的中小型源-汇传输体系，沉积物从鸭绿江到辽东半岛东岸近海泥区总体上仍遵循"夏储冬输"的输运机制。 相似文献
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The input of river-borne sediments to the New Zealand continental shelf has been calculated for all the major rivers and basins in New Zealand. South Island yields 284 ± 40 × 106 tonnes per year of sediment from a land area of 152 977 km2 and North Island yields 105 ± 9·4 × 106 tonnes per year from a land area of 114 621 km2. Particularly high discharges are noted off the west coast of South Island and east coast of North Island and result in higher offshore sedimentation there. The data are compatible with measured sedimentation rates on the New Zealand continental shelf. The specific sediment yield from South Island is amongst the highest previously recorded. 相似文献
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现代黄河三角洲的泥沙运移是河-海动力相互作用下的泥沙分配和再分配结果。现行水口门区岸滩和水下岸坡仍以不大的速率向海淤进,三角洲西段和南段沿岸基本处于动态平衡状态,三角洲中段广大岸段大都处于不同程度的冲刷蚀退态势。冲刷蚀退已严重地恶化了黄河现代三角洲的发育功能和三角洲经济开发环境,对油田的滩海工程和海上设施造成了严重威胁。 相似文献
13.
长江口及其邻近海域表层沉积物中重金属分布和潜在生态危害评价 总被引：11，自引：0，他引：11
对长江口及其邻近海域表层沉积物中重金属Cu、Mn、Pb、Zn、Cr、Fe、Hg、Cd的含量分布以及富集状况进行分析,并采用Hakanson潜在生态危害指数法评价该海域中Cu、Pb、Zn、Cr、Hg、Cd污染的程度及其潜在的生态危害,结果表明:长江口及其邻近海域表层沉积物中Cu、Mn、Pb、Zn、Cr、Fe的分布特征表现为由近岸向远岸递减的趋势,整体上象山县和舟山群岛近岸海域的含量高于研究区北部含量;Hg在长江口南端含量较高,呈由西向东递减的趋势;Cd在长江口南端以及象山县东含量较高,在研究区中部含量较低。潜在生态危害评价结果表明,长江口及其邻近海域表层沉积物只有部分站点处于生态危害的中等级别,大多站点生态危害轻微,污染程度顺序为Cd>Hg>Cu>Pb>Cr>Zn;对长江口及其邻近海域生态环境具有潜在影响的重金属元素首先是Cd,其次是Hg。对底质环境质量进行系统聚类分析结果显示,象山县和长江口外以及济州岛西南近海海域的底质环境较差,应予以重视。 相似文献
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海南岛近海海域7个沉积岩芯的现代沉积速率及其分布特征 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
利用多道α能谱仪,对2005年8～9月在海南岛近海采集的7个沉积岩芯进行了210Pb的沉积速率测定,探讨了海南岛近海陆架上现代沉积速率的区域性分布特征,结果表明:位于港湾内的B1168站位由于沉积物供应充足,有最高的沉积速率,达2.9 cm/a;位于河口海湾附近且受沿岸流影响的B289站位,有很高的沉积速率,可达1.6 cm/a,沉积环境较稳定;位于西南海底沙脊区北缘且靠近昌化江河口的B97、B135、B10站位也有较高沉积速率,分别达到1.0、0.89和0.47 cm/a,在表层都出现了210Pb放射性活度倒置的现象,表明所处区域有较强混合作用;处于西南外陆架的C4站位受北部湾环流影响,沉积速率为0.6 cm/a;位于东部外陆架的B377站位处于上升流区,沉积速率较低,为0.21 cm/a.可见,海南岛近海陆架上的现代沉积速率存在着明显的区域分布:在物质来源丰富的沿岸流作用区和河口区附近,现代沉积速率很高;在陆架环流沉积作用区,现代沉积速率也较高;在水深较大的外陆架上,由于沉积物供应相对匮乏,沉积速率一般较低;在近岸潮流沙脊区,由于水动力很强,无法形成现代细粒沉积.同时,在陆架上,沉积速率有随着水深的增加而降低的趋势.由此可见,海南岛近海海域的沉积速率与该区的物质供应、水动力条件和海底地形等因素有密切关系. 相似文献
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This paper examines the distribution of unconsolidated sediment in the KwaZulu-Natal Bight located along the east coast of South Africa. Results show that there is a general shelf-wide sediment distribution of coarser grain sizes between depths of 60 and 100?m, punctuated by a broad swathe of mud offshore of the Thukela River. Seasonal changes in sediment distribution patterns are small, being restricted to seaward fining on the inner shelf off the fluvial sources. Sediment distribution reflects a partitioning between sediment populations that are current- influenced and relict (palimpsest) populations associated with submerged shorelines. Wave ravinement during the deglacial transgression, the reworking of submerged shorelines during sea-level stillstands and, to a lesser extent, the Agulhas Current system, are the dominant controls on sediment distribution. 相似文献
16.
根据对莱州湾内小清河口附近海域的海流、含沙量、底质类型分布的观测资料,并结合数值模型的计算结果,分析了该海域的泥沙输运趋势及底床冲淤变化情况。从整个海区来看,含沙量总体趋势为由岸向海逐渐增大,并呈现出北高南低的分布特点,在小清河入海口东北方向海域有一含沙量高值区;底质泥沙的分布沿纵向等深线显示了自岸向海由粗到细的分布规律,沿横向呈北细南粗的特征;浅滩泥沙局部搬运是泥沙淤积的主要来源,河口北侧海域有一较大侵蚀区,淤积区主要分布在河槽以南的滩涂和近岸区域,风场对该海域泥沙输运影响非常显著,小清河河口附近区域在一般天气下海水较清,如遇海向大风,则水体浑黄,但风后悬沙很快沉降,水体又变清。利用数值计算的方法研究了风场对该海域的影响,其影响大约是无风时平均值的10倍。 相似文献
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A.P Carr 《Marine Geology》1981,40(3-4):M9-M22
McCave (1978) suggested that, based on sediment budget considerations and coarsening of sand-size away from cliff sources, the “nesses” on the East Anglian coast of England are sites where sediment is lost to the shoreline. This view is directly opposed to that of Robinson (1966, 1980) who believed that material reached the beach from offshore at nesses largely through the effect of residual currents.
The present paper examines these two opposing views, mainly in the light of recent data from the Easton Bavents-Aldeburgh area of East Anglia. It is concluded that neither argument is proven although it is more probable that nesses are places where sediment is lost from the foreshore rather than gained from offshore. The variability of trends between one ness and another, and at different sites offshore, implies that generalisations may not be valid. 相似文献
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Seasonal and spatial distributions of phytoplankton biomass associated with monsoon and oceanic environments in the South China Sea 总被引：5，自引：3，他引：2
Seasonal variations of phytoplankton/chlorophyll-a （Chl-a） distribution, sea surface wind, sea height anomaly, sea surface temperature and other oceanic environments for long periods are analyzed in the South China Sea （SCS）, especially in the two typical regions off the east coast of Vietnam and off the northwest coast of Luzon, using remote sensing data and other oceanographic data. The results show that seasonal and spatial distributions of phytoplankton biomass in the SCS are primarily influenced by the monsoon winds and oceanic environments. Off the east coast of Vietnam, Chl-a concentration is a peak in August, a jet shape extending into the interior SCS, which is associated with strong southwesterly monsoon winds, the coastal upwetling induced by offshore Ekman transport and the strong offshore current in the western SCS. In December, high Chl-a concentration appears in the upwelling region off the northwest coast of Luzon and spreads southwestward. Strong mixing by the strong northeasterly monsoon winds, the cyclonic circulation, southwestward coastal currents and river discharge have impacts on distribution of phytoplankton, so that the high phytoplankton biomass extends from the coastal areas over the northern SCS to the entire SCS in winter. These research activities could be important for revealing spatial and temporal patterns of phytoplankton and their interactions with physical environments in the SCS. 相似文献
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Omran E. Frihy 《Geo-Marine Letters》2001,21(1):51-57
El Hamra mooring pier was constructed on the northwestern Mediterranean coast of Egypt to provide shipping services for offshore oil terminals. Although the pier was built on cylindrical piles to avoid the interruption of sediment transport towards the south, unexpected sedimentation has affected navigation and the attached fire-fighting system. To provide a basis for evaluating the sedimentation problem and to provide possible mitigation strategies, a 23-month measurement program was conducted, including measurements of hydrographic surveying, nearshore waves, longshore currents, longshore littoral transport, currents seawards of the breaker zone, and offshore currents. The results confirm that carbonate sediments are transported southwards to the pier embayment from adjacent up-coast ridges by wave-induced currents. These sediments result from extensive civil engineering works (recreational development) up-coast of the El Hamra region, involving leveling of subaerial carbonate ridges and onshore sediment disposal. 相似文献