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1.
The shoreface, a complex and poorly understood part of the coastal zone, plays a critical role in sediment transport processes between the beach and the inner shelf. This two-year study examined the surface and subsurface architecture and the process-response mechanisms of a high-energy, steep and geologically constrained shoreface segment (1–20 m depth) in Northern Ireland. Fourteen sequential bathymetric surveys, covering an area of ~ 2 km2, were compared and analysed in order to investigate seabed changes and their relationship to wave and wind forcing. Results reveal that the shoreface is highly dynamic and complex. An examination of high-energy conditions and lower-than-average energy conditions revealed significant periods of both accretion and erosion. These complex morphodynamic responses are attributed mainly to a combination of antecedent (pre-survey) morphology, differences in wind forcing and coastal surges. A comparison of seabed changes over 2 yr reveals net shoreface accretion, which is attributed to inner-shelf to shoreface sediment transport. Over the same period, the adjacent West Strand beach showed moderate erosion. The study provides information on the morphodynamics of a steep, high-energy embayment shoreface, a coastal environment which has received little previous attention. 相似文献
2.
Indian River Inlet is located at roughly the mid-point of the Atlantic coast of Delaware and connects the ocean to two Delaware inland bays. Jetties constructed in 1940 have maintained the inlet for navigation purposes but have also acted as a barrier to net northerly alongshore sediment transport causing downdrift erosion. A mobile, land-based bypassing system was initiated in 1990 in an effort to counteract this erosion. Beach profile data from 1985 (pre-bypassing) until 2008 are used to investigate the effect of the sand bypassing system on beaches adjacent to the inlet. The downdrift beach experienced horizontal shoreline erosion between 10 and 60 m during the pre-bypassing period but accreted 10–20 m during the bypassing period. The mean shoreline location on the updrift beach during bypassing is 10–20 m landward (erosion) of its position during the pre-bypassing period. Empirical orthogonal function (EOF) amplitudes from analyses performed on mean-removed elevation surfaces during the periods of highest bypassed volume (average of 83% of design rate) showed that the influence of the bypassing system on the downdrift beach extends to about 1500 m of the inlet. An EOF analysis showed that different morphologic responses were evident following the initiation of bypass operations. Temporal variations of shoreline and beach morphology were correlated to the temporal variations in bypassing rates on the downdrift beach only. The downdrift beach response was greatest near the inlet for larger bypassing volumes. Correlation in these instances occurred with a roughly 1-year time lag suggesting that the beach quickly redistributes the bypassed sand. EOF amplitude and shoreline response are weakly correlated to bypassed volumes when the system bypassed smaller volumes (average of 56% of design rate) of sand suggesting that there is a minimum bypassing rate, regardless of yearly variability, below which the effect on the downdrift beach is obscured. 相似文献
3.
A diagnostic of coastal erosion and shoreline retreat occurring at a 7-km long sandy beach (Littoral Cell III) located in Todos Santos Bay (Baja California, Mexico) is performed trough the analysis of aerial photographs. Around 82,000 m2 of this sandy beach have been lost in a 20 year period (1985–2005), at a beach loss rate of 2,100 m2 per year. This indicates that coastal erosion is becoming a hazard to human lives and coastal infrastructure. Due to the latter, the implementation of a Shoreline Erosion Management Plan (SEMP) is proposed as the best management approach to deal with the problem. The Littoral Cell III SEMP considers four core policies, eight management strategies and a group of specific measures. 相似文献
4.
Cherdvong Saengsupavanich Somchai Chonwattana Thitima Naimsampao 《Ocean & Coastal Management》2009,52(6):307-316
This study presents how Thailand applied an integrated approach to tackle erosion problems by using a case study in Nakorn Si Thammarat province. Communities along 36 km of coastline suffered from continual erosion. Community members believed the erosion was a natural phenomenon that was intensified by human actions. Historical erosion rate estimated by overlaying aerial photographs was about 5 m per year, while LITPROF simulations suggested that approximately 5 m of beach dune would be eroded by storm waves. Stakeholders were identified based on power and legitimacy criteria. Their past attempts to mitigate the erosion were analyzed. Conflicts arose from how they selected erosion protection methods. Lessons learnt from previous management failures taught that addressing needs of the stakeholders and consulting them throughout the design process were of importance. Finally, a combination of detached nearshore breakwaters and beach nourishment was the selected protection measure and was welcome by the communities. 相似文献
5.
Estimation of erosion volumes for adequate dry beach buffer zones is commonly estimated on the basis of a single extreme event, such as the 1 in 100 year storm. However, the cumulative impact of several smaller, closely spaced storms can lead to equal, if not more, dry beach loss, but this is often not quantified. Here we use a calibrated model for dune erosion, XBeach, to hindcast the cumulative erosion impact of a series of historical storms that impacted the Gold Coast, Queensland region in 1967. Over a 6-month period, four named cyclones (Dinah, Barbara, Elaine, and Glenda) and three East Coast Lows caused a cumulative erosion volume greater than the predicted 1 in 100 year event. Results presented here show that XBeach was capable of reproducing the measured dry beach erosion volume to within 21% and shoreline retreat to within 10%. The storms were then run in 17 different sequences to determine if sequencing influenced final modeled erosion volumes. It is shown that storm sequencing did not significantly affect the total eroded volumes. However, individual storm volumes were influenced by the antecedent state of the beach (i.e. prior cumulative erosion). Power-law relationships between cumulative energy density (∑ E) and eroded volume (∆V) as well as cumulative wave power ((∑ P)) and eroded volume (∆V) both explained more than 94% of the modeled dry beach erosion for the 1967 storm sequences. When the relationship was compared with observed and modeled erosion volumes for similar beaches but different storm forcing, the inclusion of pre-storm beach swash slope (βswash) in the parameterization was found to increase the applicability of the power-law relationship over a broader range of conditions. 相似文献
6.
- Studies on the erosion processes and protective measures at the downcoast of the Friendship Port in Mauritania have been successfully conducted by means of 3-D movable-bed model using light model-sand. The headland control was accepted for the stability of the beach. This paper mainly deals with the shape, orientation, size and erosion depth of the artificial headland. Various forms of headland projects, such as the normal groin, arch groins bending to upcoast ancj to downcoast, offshore breakwater, and T-shaped dike, have been experimentally investigated. Through a comparison of effects of these works on the beach processes, optimized headlands have been obtained, that is, unsymmetrical T-shaped dike or arch groin bending to the downcoast, which has been practically and successfully applied for the stability of beaches. 相似文献
7.
Several levels of increasing complexity of transferring wave information from offshore to nearshore have been studied to quantify their influence on extreme beach erosion estimates. Beach profiles which have been monitored since 1976 were used to estimate extreme beach erosion and compared to predictions. Examination of the wave propagation assumptions revolves around two types of offshore to nearshore transfer: excluding or including wave breaking and bottom friction. A second complication is whether still water level variations (ocean tide plus storm surge) are included.The inclusion of various combinations of wave propagation processes other than shoaling and refraction in the wave transfer function changes on the extreme erosion distribution tail through lowering estimates above one year return period. This brings the predicted tails closer to the observations, but does not capture the upper limit of storm demand implied by the extensive beach profile data set. Including wave breaking has a marked effect on probabilistic estimates of beach erosion. The inclusion of bottom friction is less significant. The inclusion of still water level variability in the wave transfer calculation had minimal impact on results for the case study site, where waves were transferred from offshore to water at 20 m depth. These changes were put into perspective by comparing them to changes resulting from limiting beach erosion by adjusting the statistical distributions of peak wave height and storm duration to have maximum limits. We conclude that the proposed improvements on wave transformation methods are as significant as limiting wave erosion potential and worth including. 相似文献
8.
The possibility of using wave farms for coastal defence warrants investigation because wave energy is poised to become a major renewable in many countries over the next decades. The fundamental question in this regard is whether a wave farm can be used to reduce beach erosion under storm conditions. If the answer to this question is positive, then a wave farm can have coastal defence as a subsidiary function, in addition to its primary role of producing carbon-free energy. The objective of this work is to address this question by comparing the response of a beach in the face of a storm in two scenarios: with and without the wave farm. For this comparison a set of ad hoc impact indicators is developed: the bed level impact (BLI), beach face eroded area (FEA), non-dimensional erosion reduction (NER), and mean cumulative eroded area (CEA); and their values are determined by means of two coupled models: a high-resolution wave propagation model (SWAN) and a coastal processes model (XBeach). The study is conducted through a case study: Perranporth Beach (UK). Backed by a well-developed dune system, Perranporth has a bar between − 5 m and − 10 m. The results show that the wave farm reduces the eroded volume by as much as 50% and thus contributes effectively to coastal protection. This synergy between marine renewable energy and coastal defence may well contribute to improving the viability of wave farms through savings in conventional coastal protection. 相似文献
9.
半遮蔽型海滩由于一侧海岬的差异作用而影响海滩的演变过程。本文以青岛石老人海水浴场海滩为例,基于对3条典型剖面连续11年现场监测的高程数据,利用经验正交函数(empirical orthogonalfunction,EOF)分析方法将该海滩各剖面高程数据组成的原始距平矩阵依次分解为相应的空间和时间特征函数,分析了石老人海滩的形态演化特征、蚀淤趋势及驱动因素,并采用方差总占比超过77%的前3个经验正交函数来反映此类海滩的基本演化情况,分别为:表征长时间尺度砂质海滩滩面最主要蚀淤变化趋势的第一模态、表征季节性蚀淤变化及其引起的滩肩剖面形成增长或削弱消亡的第二模态和表征人类活动、偶发因素或海岸地形等引起的具有随机性的不规律蚀淤变化的第三模态。结果表明:11年来石老人海滩经历了三个阶段,第一阶段为平稳期(2009年1月—2011年7月),第二阶段为突变期(2011年7月—2012年9月),该阶段之后至今,是第三阶段的平稳期(2012年9月—2019年12月)。海滩剖面在自然和人类活动影响下的高程变化范围在0.1—2.0m范围内。波浪是影响该海滩形态演化的最主要水动力因素,岬角对半遮蔽型海滩的差异庇护作用导致不同位置的剖面演化存在差异。高频率台风的影响、海平面阶段性升高并长期保持较高水平导致了远离岬角的开放岸段存在明显阶段性调整,剖面滩肩宽度减少约30m,岬湾内部剖面则相对稳定,目前海滩剖面形态在第二阶段突变期后达到了新的稳定状态。 相似文献
10.
《Deep Sea Research Part I: Oceanographic Research Papers》2001,48(7):1671-1686
A ship-mounted 153 kHz narrow-band ADCP and 1 m2 MOCNESS were deployed between 16 and 24 Sept. 1997 in the Ligurian central zone (∼43°20′N 7°48′E). Results from both instruments showed that the zooplankton community performed vertical migrations that conformed to the classical pattern of ascent at dusk (∼18:30 h) and descent at dawn (∼06:30 h). Depth-discrete net samples between 0 and 500 m showed that the community was dominated by two species, the euphausiid Meganyctiphanes norvegica (Northern krill) and the pteropod Cavolinia inflexa, which migrated in separate discrete bands that were detectable by the ADCP. Information from the ADCP was used to estimate vertical migration speed in two ways: (i) from the trajectory of the back-scattering bands over time and (ii) from the Doppler-shift vertical velocity measured within depth zones at the corresponding time and depth of these bands. Estimates of the migration speed of C. inflexa were between 2 and 7 cm s−1 upwards and between 4 and 7 cm s−1 downwards. M. norvegica was estimated to migrate at speeds between 7 and 8 cm s−1 upwards and over 11 cm s−1 downwards. The consistently lower migration speeds estimated from Doppler measurements as compared with estimates obtained from measuring trajectories of back-scattering bands over time was believed to result from a methodological artefact. The Doppler measurements were nevertheless useful in a relative sense in revealing the relative speed of individuals within swarms. It was shown that individuals at the front of the upwardly migrating band of M. norvegica moved more slowly than those at the rear. These results illustrate the extra biological information that can be obtained by ADCPs compared with conventional echo-sounders. 相似文献
11.
Sixty-one Global Positioning System (GPS), sub-aerial beach surveys were completed at 7 km long Ocean Beach, San Francisco, CA (USA), between April 2004 and March 2009. The five-year time series contains over 1 million beach elevation measurements and documents detailed changes in beach morphology over a variety of spatial, temporal, and physical forcing scales. Results show that seasonal processes dominate at Ocean Beach, with the seasonal increase and decrease in wave height being the primary driver of shoreline change. Storm events, while capable of causing large short-term changes in the shoreline, did not singularly account for a large percentage of the overall observed change. Empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis shows that the first two modes account for approximately three-quarters of the variance in the data set and are represented by the seasonal onshore/offshore movement of sediment (60%) and the multi-year trend of shoreline rotation (14%). The longer-term trend of shoreline rotation appears to be related to larger-scale bathymetric change. An EOF-based decomposition technique is developed that is capable of estimating the shoreline position to within one standard deviation of the range of shoreline positions observed at most locations along the beach. The foundation of the model is the observed relationship between the temporal amplitudes of the first EOF mode and seasonally-averaged offshore wave height as well as the linear trend of shoreline rotation. This technique, while not truly predictive because of the requirement of real-time wave data, is useful because it can predict shoreline position to within reasonable confidence given the absence of field data once the model is developed at a particular site. 相似文献
12.
受人为工程的影响,相对稳定的岬湾海岸地貌常经历显著的动态调整。本文以粤东靖海湾典型岬湾海岸为例,运用Mc Laren模型、波浪动力场数值模拟、等深线对比、冲淤计算等多种方法,从海岸地貌动力学角度,对人为岬角工程前后岬湾海岸地貌动力过程和冲淤演变进行综合分析。结果表明:1)海岸地貌动力系统内常存在负反馈机制以维持系统的稳定。岬角工程后上岬角防波堤沿SSW延伸,ESE和E向浪经过防波堤时发生绕射,波能削减,湾顶动力减弱,海滩沉积物从下岬角向湾顶反向运移;2)海滩的蚀积状态在工程前后发生了转换,工程前遮蔽段侵蚀、开敞段堆积;工程后遮蔽段堆积、开敞段侵蚀;3)海湾水下地形对岬角工程的响应敏感,工程后海湾水下地形冲淤剧烈。 相似文献
13.
We investigated the impact of sediment reworking fauna and hydrodynamics on mobilization and transport of organic matter and fine particles in marine sediments. Experiments were conducted in an annular flume using lugworms (Arenicola marina) as model organisms. The impact of lugworms on sediment characteristics and particle transport was followed through time in sediments experimentally enriched with fine particles (< 63 μm) and organic matter. Parallel experiments were run at low and high water current velocity (11 and 25 cm s− 1) to evaluate the importance of sediment erosion at the sediment–water interface. There was no impact of fauna on sediment composition and particle transport at current velocity below the sediment erosion threshold. At current velocity above the erosion threshold, sediment reworking by lugworms resulted in dramatic particle transport (12 kg dry matter m− 2) to an adjacent particle trap within 56 days. The transported matter was enriched 6–8 times in fine particles and organic matter when compared to the initial sediment. This study suggests that sediment reworking fauna is an important controlling factor for the particle composition of marine sediments. A. marina mediated sediment reworking greatly increases the sediment volume exposed to hydrodynamic forcing at the sediment–water interface, and through sediment resuspension control the content of fine particles and organic matter in the entire reworked sediment layer (> 20 cm depth). 相似文献
14.
P.S. Pereira L.J. Calliari R. Holman K.T. Holland R.M.C. Guedes C.K. Amorin P.G. Cavalcanti 《Marine Geology》2011,279(1-4):210-221
Besides the different scales within which coastal processes manifest their energy, the majority of the world's coastal regions exhibit forms of sediment heterogeneity that are physically significant. One example of a heterogeneous environment is Cassino beach, located at the southernmost part of Brazil, a fine-grain-sized sandy beach where fluid mud sporadically is transported to the nearshore and eventually onto the beach. At this site in 2005, as part of a field experiment, a video system was installed. Three years after the installation, a large mud transgression event took place in February 2008 and had 5 km of extension. In this context, the goal of the present work is to characterize the mud deposition pattern across the surf zone, describing the consequences of mud on nearshore dynamics using remote sensing techniques, beach profiles and suspended matter concentration. The surveyed beach profiles registered the deposition of fluid mud at the inner surf zone with concentrations up to 12 mg/l. The material was deposited close to the shoreline and had a cross-shore width of 100 m during the first deposition day occupying the entire water column. From surf zone time series of pixel intensity, it was possible to detect the attenuation of the surface wave spectra due to the presence of fluid mud. The combination of video techniques and field data allowed one to follow the formation of a double-layer system, where fluid mud overlays the sandy bottom. The video-based system at Cassino demonstrated that remote detection of fluid mud and quantification of its effect on the nearshore dynamics is feasible. The combination of beach profiles, measurements of suspended matter concentration and intensity timestacks allowed the analysis of the short-term evolution of the mud depositional processes. 相似文献
15.
《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2006,66(1-2):30-34
The biomass of reproductive litter from Posidonia oceanica deposited on a 3.5 km stretch of beach in the north-western Mediterranean, as a consequence of a storm in May 2004, was quantified. The damage caused by this storm to the meadow from which fruits originated was evaluated in terms of loss of seed production. Intermediate fruits (i.e., developing fruits) were the most important reproductive component, followed by immature and damaged fruits. No fully mature fruits were found. No significant differences in the average number of fruits and biomass accumulated were detected among beach sections hundreds of metres apart. Extrapolation of the results at four beach sections indicated that about 1 million fruits were deposited on the entire (3.5 km) beach. This was equivalent to the seed production potential of about 313,217 inflorescences, or a flowered area of 1500 m2. The organic input to the beach was 224 kg ash-free dry weight (AFDM). These results suggest that storms may provide an unpredictable source of seed mortality in P. oceanica. The reproductive material produced by storms, however, may constitute an important source of allochthonous organic matter to the beach. 相似文献
16.
The study of contourite drifts is an increasingly used tool for understanding the climate history of the oceans. In this paper we analyse two contourite drifts along the continental margin west of Spitsbergen, just south of the Fram Strait where significant water mass exchanges impact the Arctic climate. We detail the internal geometry and the morphologic characteristics of the two drifts on the base of multichannel seismic reflection data, sub-bottom profiles and bathymetry. These mounded features, that we propose to name Isfjorden and Bellsund drifts, are located on the continental slope between 1200 and 1800 m depth, whereas the upper slope is characterized by reduced- or non-deposition. The more distinct Isfjorden Drift is about 25 km wide and 45 km long, and over 200 ms TWT thick. We revise the 13 years-long time series of velocity, temperature, and salinity obtained from a mooring array across the Fram Strait. Two distinct current cores are visible in the long-term average. The shallower current core has an average northward velocity of about 20 cm/s, while the deeper bottom current core at about 1450 m depth has an average northward velocity of about 9 cm/s. We consider Norwegian Sea Deep Water episodically ventilated by relatively dense and turbid shelf water from the Barents Sea responsible for the accumulation of the contourites. The onset of the drift growth west of Spitsbergen is inferred to be about 1.3 Ma and related to the Early Pleistocene glacial expansion recorded in the area. The lack of mounded contouritic deposits on the continental slope of the Storfjorden is related to consecutive erosion by glacigenic debris flows. The Isfjorden and Bellsund drifts are inferred to contain the record of the regional palaeoceanography and glacial history and may constitute an excellent target of future scientific drilling. 相似文献
17.
Malgorzata Stramska 《Deep Sea Research Part I: Oceanographic Research Papers》2009,56(9):1459-1470
Satellite remote sensing offers new means of quantifying particulate organic carbon, POC, concentration over large oceanic areas. From SeaWiFS ocean color, we derived 10-year data of POC concentration in the surface waters of the global ocean. The 10-year time series of the global and basin scale average surface POC concentration do not display any significant long-term trends. The annual mean surface POC concentration and its seasonal amplitude are highest in the North Atlantic and lowest in the South Pacific, when compared to other ocean basins. POC anomalies in the North Atlantic, North Pacific, and global concentrations seem to be inversely correlated with El Niño index, but longer time series are needed to confirm this relationship. Quantitative estimates of POC reservoir in the oceanic surface layer depend on the choice of what should represent this layer. Global average POC biomass is 1.34 g m?2 if integrated over one optical depth, 3.62 g m?2 if integrated over mixed layer depth, and up to 6.41 g m?2 if integrated over 200-m layer depth (when assumed POC concentration below MLD is 20 mg m?3). The global estimate of total POC reservoir in the surface 200-m layer of the ocean is 228.61×1013 g. We expect that future estimates of POC reservoir may be even larger, when more precise calculations account for deep-water organic-matter maxima in oligotrophic regions, and POC biomass located just below the seasonal mixed layer in spring and summer in the temperate regions. 相似文献
18.
《Journal of Sea Research》2011,65(4):494-504
Turbot (Psetta maxima Linnaeus) is a high value commercially exploited marine flatfish which occurs in European waters, from the Northeast Atlantic to the Arctic Circle, the Baltic and Mediterranean Sea. In Ireland, turbot are the most valuable commercial non-quota species. Very little is known about their population dynamics in the wild, in particular during the sandy beach nursery phase of the life history. In 2000, a survey was established to assess flatfish species on nursery grounds on the west coast of Ireland. Eleven sandy beaches were assessed for 0+ turbot by beach seining, over an eight year period (2000–2007) during the months of August and September. The objective of the study was to estimate juvenile turbot abundance and size structure to determine if any spatial and annual trends existed. Large scale variability in the recruitment of fish to nursery grounds may be indicative of fluctuations in the adult stock. Turbot were found to recruit to five beaches consistently over the eight year period. Temporal and spatial variability in the relative abundance and length of turbot was discerned, with no apparent overall trend. However, certain nursery grounds were shown in most of the years examined to support higher abundances of turbot in comparison to other areas over the eight year period. Turbot abundances on nursery grounds were significantly correlated with mean spring sea temperatures during the pelagic stage. The condition of turbot did not significantly differ on an annual or spatial scale. Mean densities of 0+ turbot along the Irish coast were found to be similar and at times higher than other areas in Europe, ranging from 0.1 (± 0.3) individuals 1000 m− 2 to 18.5 (± 6.9) individuals 1000 m− 2. Mean turbot total length on beaches ranged from 3.8 cm (± 0.6) to 6.6 cm (± 4.3). The observed spatial and temporal variability in abundance and length highlights the need for long-term studies when assessing juvenile flatfish populations. Results from the present study have provided much needed baseline data on wild juvenile turbot populations which is severely lacking for this species both on an Irish and on a European scale. 相似文献
19.
This paper presents a methodological approach to calculate runup from the analysis of morphodynamic conditions on a macrotidal sandy beach. The method is based on measurements of the elevation of high-tide deposits and on the analysis of morphological and hydrodynamic changes. A series of measurements has been carried out on the beach of Vougot (Brittany, France) under different wave conditions. This allowed to assess runup formula effectiveness on a macrotidal sandy beach and to determine the best slope parameters to estimate runup. The results suggest that on that macrotidal sandy beach the slope of the active section of the upper beach should be used instead of the entire slope of the foreshore, the latter resulting in an underestimation of runup elevations when used in predictive equations from the literature. Results obtained with widely used equations are relatively well correlated with observed values (r2 = 0.63). An analysis of the relationship between observed runup elevations and various variables has enabled the establishment of a runup estimation formula with a relatively good fit to the study site (r2 = 0.86). 相似文献
20.
《Deep Sea Research Part II: Topical Studies in Oceanography》2009,56(17):1182-1200
Measurements of sea-ice thickness were obtained from drill holes, an ice-based electromagnetic induction instrument (IEM), and a ship-borne electromagnetic induction instrument (SEM) during the early-melt season in the southern Chukchi Sea in 2002 and 2004, and in late summer 2003 at the time of minimum ice extent in the northern Chukchi Sea. An ice roughness criterion was applied to distinguish between level and rough or ridged ice. Ice-thickness modes in the probability density functions (PDFs) derived from drill-hole and IEM measurements agreed well, with modes at 1.5–1.6 and 1.8–1.9 m for all data from level ice. The PDFs derived from SEM measurements show that the primary modes are at 0.1 and 1.1 m in 2003 and 0.7 m in 2004. In 2002 and 2004, significant fractions (between one-third and one-half) of level ice were found to consist of rafted ice segments. Snow depth varied significantly between years, with 2004 data showing more than half the snow cover on level ice to be at or below 0.05 m depth in late spring. Ice growth simulations and examination of ice drift and deformation history indicate that impacts of atmospheric and oceanic warming on level-ice thickness in the region over the past few decades are masked to a large extent by variability in snow depth and the contribution of deformation processes. In comparison with submarine sonar ice-thickness data from previous decades, a reduction in ice thickness by about 0.5–1 m is in part explained by the replacement of multi-year with first-year ice over the Chukchi and Beaufort shelves. 相似文献