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1.
Environment predictions for locations for which bathymetric data is missing, poor or outdated requires the use of some sort of representative bathymetric form, usually one that is concave up but monotonic. We propose and test a parametric form that superimposes realistic sand bars (Ruessink et al., 2003b) on a background profile that mixes a concave up nearshore with a planar far field behavior. Implementation at any new site involves estimation of five parameters, three that can be found from approximate information from climatology or old offshore charts, one that can be estimated by almost any remote sensing modality and one, hsea that is less well understood but mostly affects deeper bathymetry that has little impact on the resulting surf zone hydrodynamics. Tests against several hundred surveys at three diverse locations show that bathymetry is better estimated by the new barred form than with a previous monotonic profiles in about 80% of cases. The remaining cases are usually associated with the parametric prediction of bars that look realistic but are out of phase. The presence of parametric bars has an even greater impact on predicted hydrodynamics since wave breaking is concentrated at sand bar locations. Modeled cross-shore transects of alongshore current and wave height over the measured survey profile are well represented by modeled transects over the barred parametric form but not for results over a Dean profile. The peak alongshore current strength and location are particularly sensitive to the presence of a sand bar. 相似文献
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华南休闲海滩沙坝触发的裂流风险及特征研究 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
为应对频发的致命性海滩溺水事故，自然资源部开展了我国首次滨海旅游区裂流灾害技术调查，在华南地区发现大量滨海休闲海滩存在浅滩沙坝和裂流现象。作为全国调查的部分成果，本文应用多种方法研究了广东省3个热门海滩沙坝触发的裂流机理、特征和演变规律。地形动力计算和卫星影像显示了沙坝形态、岸线形状以及裂流的高度动态性，尤其在青澳湾裂流呈现非常规的反季节变化，冬季风险较高而夏季风险较低。在相位解析水动力数值模拟中，裂流表现出对沙坝形态、浪高、浪向的高度敏感性。沙坝间较宽间隙会产生尺寸较大的裂流区，但比起窄沟槽不一定伴随更强的流速。当大部分水流集中从邻近的较宽通道回流入海时，部分窄沟槽几乎没有裂流产生。裂流流速与浪高成正比与入射角成反比。数值模拟结果表明，当入射角达到10°～30°时，沿岸流会取代离岸流占主导地位。现场调查也验证了在低潮时，较浅的水深会放大水流和波浪的地形效应，导致裂流风险加剧。本文研究结果可为滨海旅游区裂流灾害的工程减缓措施和公共警示提供有益参考。未来将会持续开展针对特定岸线的长期观测，以为裂流预警报和风险管控积累足够的统计数据。 相似文献
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Natural events constantly alter nearshore bathymetric properties. Hurricanes particularly affect bathymetry as they pass over a body of water. To compute an accurate forecast or recreate a hurricane's effects through hindcasting techniques, an operational bathymetry data set must be known in advance. However, obtaining and maintaining current and accurate bathymetric data can be costly and difficult to manage. In this paper we examine the extent to which variations in nearshore bathymetry affect the storm surge at the coast. A common question for wave and surge modeling is, “how good is the bathymetric data?” If we can allow for a range of fluctuations in the bathymetry without significantly adjusting the results of the surge predictions, we can potentially save months of field work and millions of dollars. A one-dimensional (1D) analytical solution for waves and water level is developed for initial testing. In the 1D case we find that as long as the amplitudes of the bathymetric fluctuations are less than 60% of the original depth, the surge at the coast is within ± 10% of the surge generated on the initial bottom slope. If the fluctuation produces a hole, a deepening of the local bathymetry, within 80% of the local water depth, the coastal storm surge calculated is still within 10% of the unperturbed value computed for bottom slopes shallower than 1:20. In addition, we find there is an optimum distance offshore for each sloped profile that corresponds to a depth between 25 and 40 m, beyond which the effects of bathymetric fluctuations begin to decrease. A coupled 2D modeling system is implemented to test our hypothesis along a realistic coastline. After selecting three study sites, we vary the bathymetry at the selected locations by ± 20%. Consistent with the 1D tests, the storm surge at the shoreline varies by less than 5%. 相似文献
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Thus far various numerical models have been developed and improved to aid understanding of the sediment transport process due to tsunamis. However, the applicability of these models for the field-scale bathymetric change remains a major issue due to the scarcity of measured bathymetric data immediately before and after tsunamis. This study focuses on assessing the applicability of the sediment transport model by comparing the model results with measured bathymetry data obtained one month before and two months after the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami at Kirinda Fishery Harbor, Sri Lanka. Obtained model results were compared with measured data along four different transects. In particular, similar to the measured data, the model reproduced the bed level change at the harbor mouth well, although it shows some discrepancy on bathymetric change along the shoreline, which is directly affected by littoral drift. Therefore, it is noted that the divergence of reproducing the local bathymetry change is due to the normal wind wave effect on measured data and the model limitations. Hence we included the wind wave effect in modeled data and the discrepancy between measured and modeled data was reduced. Furthermore, the modeled bed level change indicates a dynamic behavior in terms of the net variation during the tsunami flow, such that deposition dominates in the inflow and erosion dominates in the backflow. Both bed level variation and the suspended load concentration reveal that the large amount of eroded sediment attributable to tsunami waves was in suspended form and was deposited in the nearshore area after the water fluctuation had abated. The model results further indicate that eroded sediment at the initial depth deeper than 11 m might be brought by the incoming tsunami waves and deposited in the nearshore area where the depth is shallower than 7 m. 相似文献
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Adjustments to satellite constrained navigation are required to match SeaBeam bathymetric data at track crossings due to errors in dead reckoning and inaccuracies in satellite fixes. By shifting one of the SeaBeam swaths involved in a track crossing relative to the other and calculating the sum of the squares of the differences in bathymetry within the area of overlapping coverage, we map a two-dimensional error surface whose minimum corresponds to the best estimate of the correction to navigation required at the crossing point. Estimates of the covariance of this correction are derived from the error surface. We employ the curve fitting technique of Tarantola and Valette (1982) to invert for a smooth correction function to a starting model of the position of the ship as a function of time. This technique incorporates formal errors assigned to dead reckoning, satellite fixes, and the shifts required to match bathymetric swaths at crossing points in a simultaneous inversion for the correction function for all tracks within the study area.In a test of the method in a study area on the southern Mid-Atlantic Ridge, a data set involving two cruises, 30 days of SeaBeam data, and 753 track crossings, we found that crossing SeaBeam swaths can potentially resolve the relative position of the ship on the two tracks to within 30 to 70 m. The inversion procedure yielded a much better constrained navigation function and much improved match of bathymetry. The final model of the navigation fit crossing shifts about as well as satellite data (with respect to their assigned data errors) with the RMS value of the crossing shifts decreasing from 1200 m in the original satellite-constrained navigation to 200 m in the final solution. However, the potential resolution of position using SeaBeam swaths was not fully achieved in the solution because there are systematic bathymetric artifacts in SeaBeam data, multiple local minima in the error surfaces in highly lineated topography, inadequate dead reckoning data, occasional bad satellite fixes, and limitations on the short period corrections allowed in the model. 相似文献
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A new method for weakening the combined effect of residual errors on multibeam bathymetric data 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Jianhu Zhao Jun Yan Hongmei Zhang Yuqing Zhang Aixue Wang 《Marine Geophysical Researches》2014,35(4):379-394
Multibeam bathymetric system (MBS) has been widely applied in the marine surveying for providing high-resolution seabed topography. However, some factors degrade the precision of bathymetry, including the sound velocity, the vessel attitude, the misalignment angle of the transducer and so on. Although these factors have been corrected strictly in bathymetric data processing, the final bathymetric result is still affected by their residual errors. In deep water, the result usually cannot meet the requirements of high-precision seabed topography. The combined effect of these residual errors is systematic, and it’s difficult to separate and weaken the effect using traditional single-error correction methods. Therefore, the paper puts forward a new method for weakening the effect of residual errors based on the frequency-spectrum characteristics of seabed topography and multibeam bathymetric data. Four steps, namely the separation of the low-frequency and the high-frequency part of bathymetric data, the reconstruction of the trend of actual seabed topography, the merging of the actual trend and the extracted microtopography, and the accuracy evaluation, are involved in the method. Experiment results prove that the proposed method could weaken the combined effect of residual errors on multibeam bathymetric data and efficiently improve the accuracy of the final post-processing results. We suggest that the method should be widely applied to MBS data processing in deep water. 相似文献
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J.O. Blanton A.J. Garrett J.S. Bollinger D.W. Hayes L.D. Koffman J. Amft T. Moore 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2010
A study of tracer transport and retention in a small tidal creek and marsh system located in the southeastern US was conducted using a three-dimensional hydrodynamic model and data from a dye tracer release. The model simulated tidally driven flow, including inundation and drying out of the marshes and the dispersal of the dye tracer. Flow measurements in the tidal creek showed that the simulations appeared to generally duplicate the tidally driven flow into and out of the tidal creeks and marshes. The dye tracer experiment was conducted to test the hydrodynamic model's ability to simulate dispersal of a point release of pollutants into the creek during an incoming tide. The simulations reproduced much of the experimental measurements, but bathymetric errors and lack of resolution of the smallest arms of the tidal creeks affected the ability to faithfully reproduce the initial peak in measured dye tracer concentrations at a sampling location far from the boundary. The lack of the smallest tidal creeks led to some trapping of water and dye in the marshes. Two independent estimates of flushing time yielded values between 1.6 and 2.4 days. An uncertainty analysis indicates that model simulations are sensitive to variations in parameters such as water depth and marsh grass density. On the other hand, omission of the smallest tidal creeks in simulations may be partially offset by decreasing marsh grass density. Further improvements must rely on more accurate and detailed bathymetric data that resolves the smaller arms of the tidal creeks and includes quantitative information about the density and distribution of marsh grass. 相似文献
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Steve Sramek 《Marine Geodesy》2013,36(2-3):151-163
Local changes in the marine geoid (<100 nm in size) correspond well with bathymetric features such as seamounts. Thus the marine geoid height may be used to verify existing features, predict the bathymetry of unsurveyed areas, and fill gaps in existing data. The application of matching high‐pass filters to both the geoid and bathymetry data of an area allows the regional trends to be removed so that only the features remain. Filter values that begin to pass data with wavelengths less than 125 miles and all data with wave lengths less than 70 miles were selected. The high‐frequency variations of the geoid can then be correlated to the bathymetry and a scaling factor between the two calculated. The highest correlations (.81) were achieved using a cut‐off value for the filtered geoid data. A gridded synthetic bathymetry file was created by scaling the filtered geoid to the filtered bathymetry and adding the low pass background bathymetry. The gridded historical bathymetry could then be subtracted from the synthetic bathymetry in an automated method to display probable new features. A final selection of 458 previously unreported major features was then made. 相似文献
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XIE Ming-xiao ZHANG Chi YANG Zhi-wen LI Shan LI Xin GUO Wei-jun ZUO Shu-hua 《海洋工程》2017,31(5):549-558
A process-based 3D numerical model for surfzone hydrodynamics and beach evolution was established. Comparisons between the experimental data and model results proved that the model could effectively describe the hydrodynamics, sediment transport feature and sandbar migration process in the surfzone with satisfactory precision. A series of numerical simulations on the wave breaking and shoaling up to a barred beach were carried out based on the model system. Analyzed from the model results, the wave-induced current system in the surfzone consists of two major processes, which are the phase-averaged undertow caused by wave breaking and the net drift caused by both of the nonlinear wave motion and surface roller effect. When storm waves come to the barred beach, the strong offshore undertow along the beach suppresses the onshore net drift, making the initial sandbar migrate to the seaside. Under the condition of calm wave environment, both the undertow and net drift flow to the shoreline at the offshore side of the sandbar, and then push the initial sandbar to the shoreline. The consideration of surface roller has significant impact on the modeling results of the sandbar migration. As the roller transfer rate increases, the sandbar moves onshore especially under the storm wave condition. 相似文献
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Vertical errors often present in multibeam swath bathymetric data. They are mainly sourced by sound refraction, internal wave disturbance, imperfect tide correction, transducer mounting, long period heave, static draft change, dynamic squat and dynamic motion residuals, etc. Although they can be partly removed or reduced by specific algorithms, the synthesized depth biases are unavoidable and sometimes have an important influence on high precise utilization of the final bathymetric data. In order to confidently identify the decimeter-level changes in seabed morphology by MBES, we must remove or weaken depth biases and improve the precision of multibeam bathymetry further. The fixed-interval profiles that are perpendicular to the vessel track are generated to adjust depth biases between swaths. We present a kind of postprocessing method to minimize the depth biases by the histogram of cumulative depth biases. The datum line in each profile can be obtained by the maximum value of histogram. The corrections of depth biases can be calculated according to the datum line. And then the quality of final bathymetry can be improved by the corrections. The method is verified by a field test. 相似文献
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《Coastal Engineering》2004,51(7):581-607
A state-of-the-art process-based model is applied to hindcast the morphological development of a shoreface nourishment along the barrier island of Terschelling, The Netherlands. The applied morphodynamic model is Delft3D for fully three-dimensional flow and sediment transport in coastal environments. Owing to a complex geomorphological setting of the study area, the curvi-linear model includes adjacent tidal inlets and covers 40×70 km with an increasing grid size resolution towards the nourishment site in the center of the island. In 1993, a total of 2 Mm3 of sand was supplied to the nearshore bar zone off Terschelling, filling up the trough between the middle and outer bar. By spring 1994, most of the nourished sediment had been redistributed onshore and welded onto the middle bar where it remained in the following years. The morphodynamic model is applied to the prediction of this rapid nearshore profile behaviour. The calibration of the model against an extensive set of full-scale hydrodynamic data at several locations throughout the nearshore bar zone shows a good representation of the measured hydrodynamics. Morphodynamic results show a dependency on spatial scale: on the scale of precise bed level evolution with respect to bar migration and growth, model predictions are poor as the nearshore bars are predicted to flatten out. Resorting to bulk volumes integrated over larger spatial scales, the model clearly has skill in predicting the overall effects of the nourishment. The lack of phase shift between sediment transport and bathymetry is identified as the key controlling factor for the poor sandbar predictions. 相似文献
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This paper evaluates the impact of using different wind field products on the performance of the third generation wave model SWAN in the Black Sea and its capability for predicting both normal and extreme wave conditions during 1996. Wind data were obtained from NCEP CFSR, NASA MERRA, JRA-25, ECMWF Operational, ECMWF ERA40, and ECMWF ERA-Interim. Wave data were obtained in 1996 at three locations in the Black Sea within the NATO TU-WAVES project. The quality of wind fields was assessed by comparing them with satellite data. These wind data were used as forcing fields for the generation of wind waves. Time series of predicted significant wave height (Hmo), mean wave period (Tm02), and mean wave direction (DIR) were compared with observations at three offshore buoys in the Black Sea and its performance was quantified in terms of statistical parameters. In addition, wave model performance in terms of significant wave height was also assessed by comparing them against satellite data.The main scope of this work is the impact of the different available wind field products on the wave hindcast performance. In addition, the sensitivity of wave model forecasts due to variations in spatial and temporal resolutions of the wind field products was investigated. Finally, the impact of using various wind field products on predicting extreme wave events was analyzed by focussing on storm peaks and on an individual storm event in October 1996. The numerical results revealed that the CFSR winds are more suitable in comparison with the others for modelling both normal and extreme events in the Black Sea. The results also show that wave model output is critically sensitive to the choice of the wind field product, such that the quality of the wind fields is reflected in the quality of the wave predictions. A finer wind spatial resolution leads to an improvement of the wave model predictions, while a finer temporal resolution in the wind fields generally does not significantly improve agreement between observed and simulated wave data. 相似文献
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《Coastal Engineering》2002,45(1):19-32
The remote sensing of the sea surface is commonly regarded as a logistically simple and cost-effective way of obtaining long-term (>years) time series of nearshore sandbar location. In this paper, we demonstrate that, similar to video imagery, time-exposure X-band (∼3 cm wave length) radar images contain alongshore, breaking-related high-intensity bands that can be used to compute the location of the underlying sandbar crests. Analysis of time-exposure X-band images and bathymetric surveys collected at Egmond aan Zee, Netherlands shows that the radar-based bar crest location, defined as the cross-shore location of maximum radar intensity, differs from the in situ surveyed crest location by a distance of O(10 m). This difference, Δx̄radar, depends linearly on the offshore water level, consistent with model predictions in which the radar intensity is assumed to behave as the energy of the surface roller. The model additionally suggests a dependence of Δx̄radar on the offshore wave height when the wave field across the bar is non-saturated. In general, such wave conditions did not result in radar images with sufficient contrast to determine the bar crest location and, accordingly, the wave-height dependence was not observed clearly in the field. Because of the dependence of Δx̄radar on the offshore water level, time series of radar-based bar crest location show artificial variability when the images are collected at different water levels. Various techniques for correcting this variability are discussed. 相似文献
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洋中脊热液活动多产生于不同扩张速率洋中脊的局部高地形区域，基于达西流体充填的孔隙?弹性热力学模型可以直观、有效地模拟出洋壳内部热液对流的形态、温度结构和喷发位置等信息。数值模拟结果和所得解析模型表明:不同规模的洋底地形起伏会对洋壳内部的热液对流形态产生不同程度的影响，高地形规模越大，起伏程度越大，下伏热液羽向地形高点的偏移就越明显。通过结合东太平洋海隆9°17′N热液区和大西洋洋中脊Lucky Strike热液区实际的跨轴水深分布，也可获得与二者实际喷发位置相吻合的模拟结果。地形起伏相关的洋中脊热液喷发模型揭示洋底低地形及其下伏渗透性洋壳表现为主要的海水充注区域，而高地形由于上覆压力的减小，使其成为汇集热液释放和喷发的主要区域。 相似文献
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Fanlin Yang Dianpeng Su Kai Zhang Yue Ma Mingwei Wang Anxiu Yang 《Marine Geophysical Researches》2017,38(3):303-311
This study proposes a new methodology for mosaicing airborne light detection and ranging (LiDAR) bathymetry (ALB) data based on Monte Carlo matching. Various errors occur in ALB data due to imperfect system integration and other interference factors. To account for these errors, a Monte Carlo matching algorithm based on a nonlinear least-squares adjustment model is proposed. First, the raw data of strip overlap areas were filtered according to their relative drift of depths. Second, a Monte Carlo model and nonlinear least-squares adjustment model were combined to obtain seven transformation parameters. Then, the multibeam bathymetric data were used to correct the initial strip during strip mosaicing. Finally, to evaluate the proposed method, the experimental results were compared with the results of the Iterative Closest Points (ICP) and three-dimensional Normal Distributions Transform (3D-NDT) algorithms. The results demonstrate that the algorithm proposed in this study is more robust and effective. When the quality of the raw data is poor, the Monte Carlo matching algorithm can still achieve centimeter-level accuracy for overlapping areas, which meets the accuracy of bathymetry required by IHO Standards for Hydrographic Surveys Special Publication No.44. 相似文献