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1.
A set of unified formulas for prediction of the mean rate of wave overtopping at coastal structures with smooth, impermeable surfaces have been derived through the analysis of the selected CLASH datasets. The mean wave overtopping rate is expressed as the function of the significant wave height at the structural toe and the relative freeboard. The formulas are applicable for both vertical walls and inclined seawalls with smooth transition between them. The formulas are simple but cover the full range of water depth from the shoreline to deep water. The effects of the toe depth and the seabed slope on wave overtopping rate are duly incorporated in the formulas. Prediction performance of the new formulas is better than the EurOtop formulas for both vertical walls and inclined seawalls.  相似文献   

2.
The SWAN model used to study wave evolution in a flume   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
The SWAN numerical model is used to model the evolution of JONSWAP wave spectra and hence the significant wave height of waves in a tank. Comparison with experiment has shown that modelling triad interactions in the numerical model leads to too low predictions of spectra and significant wave height and should therefore be excluded. The modelling of the breaking constant was also investigated, by looking at the use of a constant breaking constant, Nelson formula, and Goda formula (added into SWAN for this study). Using a constant value of 0.78 within SWAN gave the best comparison between theory and experiment.  相似文献   

3.
杜艳  刘国强  何宜军  韩雪 《海洋科学》2020,44(10):12-22
台风是影响中国黄东海的强天气现象,其引起的强风、巨浪和台风增水严重威胁着沿海地区人民的生命与财产安全。本文以海浪模式SWAN(Simulating Waves Nearshore)与区域海洋模式ROMS(Regional Ocean Modeling System)为基础,构建了中国黄东海海域在201509号台风“灿鸿”影响下的海浪-海洋耦合模式。通过浮标与Jason-2高度计有效波高数据验证了模式结果的准确性。进行了敏感性实验分析,对比耦合(ROMS+SWAN)与非耦合(SWAN)下以及使用不同地形数据(ETOPO1、ETOPO2、GEBCO)、不同物理参数化方案(风能输入、白冠耗散、底摩擦耗散)下的模拟结果差异。结果发现在射阳与前三岛浮标处,使用GEBCO地形数据(15弧秒间隔)下的模拟效果更好且稳定。在空间分布上,台风中心附近的浪流相互作用显著,在其前进方向右侧表现为耦合的有效波高值低于非耦合有效波高值,差值最高可达1米。选择不同风输入与耗散项方案时的模拟差异主要发生在最大波高处,选择不同的风能输入与白冠耗散项方案带来的差异接近0.4米,而底摩擦项方案选择不同带来的差异接近1米。因而在模拟实际的海况时,需要综合考虑这些因素带来的影响,才能达到SWAN海浪模型最好的海浪模拟效果。  相似文献   

4.
渤海湾风浪场的数值模拟   总被引:14,自引:1,他引:13  
采用SWAN模型对渤海湾在定常风和非定常风作用下的波浪场进行了模拟,并利用黄骅港附近波浪统计资料对模拟结果进行了验证。结果表明:SWAN模型较好地模拟了渤海湾在定常风和非定常风作用下风浪成长和传播过程。此外,还应用ADCIRC潮流模型,初步探讨了潮流对波浪要素的影响:(1)无流存在时,波高的成长和波周期的变化是一条光滑的曲线,但当有流加入时,由于其流速和水位在一个潮周期内随时间的变化足不均匀的,其对波浪成长产生影响,使波高和周期呈不规则变化;(2)波浪成长初期,流对波高增长的影响并不明显,但当波高增大到一定程度时,流的存在对波高的影响是很明显的。  相似文献   

5.
A spectral wind wave model SWAN (Simulation WAves Nearshore) that represents the generation, propagation and dissipation of waves was applied to Lake Okeechobee. This model includes the effects of refraction, shoaling, and blocking in wave propagation. It accounts for wave dissipation by whitecapping, bottom friction, and depth-induced wave breaking. The wave–wave interaction effect also is included in this model. Measurements of wind and wave heights were made at different stations and different time periods in Lake Okeechobee. Significant wave height values were computed from the recorded data. The correlation between wind stress and significant wave height also was analyzed. A 6-day simulation using 1989 data was conducted for model calibration. Another 6-day simulation using 1996 data was conducted for model verification. The simulated significant wave heights were found to agree reasonably well with measured significant wave heights for calibration and verification periods. Agreement between observed and simulated values was based on graphical comparisons, mean, absolute and root mean square errors, and correlation coefficient. Comparisons showed that the model reproduced both general observed trends and short term fluctuations.  相似文献   

6.
渤海重现期波高的数值计算   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
利用RAMS大气模式给出的20年风场资料,利用SWAN近海波浪模式对渤海海域的波浪进行了20 a数值计算.通过与一般过程和大风过程的实测资料的对比后发现.波浪模拟值与实潮值符合地较好,SWAN模式适合渤海海域波浪的计算。通过分析发现.辽东湾常浪向为SSW。强浪向为SSW;渤海中部常浪向为S,强浪向为NE;渤海海峡常浪向为NNW,强浪向为NNW;莱州湾常浪向为S,强浪向为NNE;渤海湾常浪向为S.强浪向为NE。渤中偏东南海域(38°~39°N,119.5°~120.5°E)多年一遇有效波高最大.其中百年一遇有效波高最大值达到6.7m。  相似文献   

7.
This paper presents the development of an Artificial Neural Network for the prediction of the wave reflection coefficient from a wide range of coastal and harbor structures. The Artificial Neural Network is trained and validated against an extensive database of about 6000 data, including smooth, rock and armor unit slopes, berm breakwaters, vertical walls, low crested structures, oblique wave attacks. The structure and data included in this database, as well as the approach used in this paper, follow the work done on wave overtopping within the CLASH project.In this new Artificial Neural Network 13 input elements are used to represent the physics of the reflection process taking into account the structure geometry (height, submergence, straight or non-straight slope, with or without berm or toe), the structure type (smooth or covered by an armor layer, with permeable or impermeable core) and the wave attack (water depth, wave height, wave length, wave obliquity, directional spreading).The selection of the input elements and of the algorithms used in the network is described based on an in-depth sensitivity analysis of the network performance.The accuracy of the network is quite satisfactory, being the average root mean squared error lower than 0.04. This value is consistent between the Artificial Neural Network calibrated on the original dataset and the one calibrated on boot-strapped datasets in which data reliability and structure complexity are considered.The performance of the network is compared for limited datasets with selected available literature formulae proving that this approach is able to estimate the experimental reflection coefficients with greater accuracy than the empirical formulae calibrated on these same datasets.  相似文献   

8.
The relationship between significant wave height and period, the variability of significant wave period, the spectral peak enhancement factor, and the directional spreading parameter of large deepwater waves around the Korean Peninsula have been investigated using various sources of wave measurement and hindcasting data. For very large waves comparable to design waves, it is recommended to use the average value of the empirical formulas proposed by Shore Protection Manual in 1977 and by Goda in 2003 for the relationship between significant wave height and period. The standard deviation of significant wave periods non-dimensionalized with respect to the mean value for a certain significant wave height varies between 0.04 and 0.21 with a typical value of 0.1 depending upon different regions and different ranges of significant wave heights. The probability density function of the peak enhancement factor is expressed as a lognormal distribution, with its mean value of 2.14, which is somewhat smaller than the value in the North Sea. For relatively large waves, the probability density function of the directional spreading parameter at peak frequency is also expressed as a lognormal distribution.  相似文献   

9.
时莹  梁书秀  孙昭晨 《海洋工程》2018,36(6):116-123
基于浅水斜坡地形的物理模型试验数据,考察SWAN模型对实验室小尺度浅水波浪的模拟效果,进而检验其浅水项的模拟精度。模拟中采用直接输入初始测点的实测海浪谱进行造波,重点考察浅水中三波相互作用和变浅破碎两个源项,对不同工况下,SWAN模式在水深条件变化下的有效波高、谱平均周期、海浪谱演化的模拟能力进行研究。研究表明:模拟的有效波高较符合实测波浪的增长和衰减,但谱平均周期计算值明显偏小;海浪谱的能量转移机制同实测有较大区别,频谱模拟结果出现高频高估、低频低估现象。对两个源项进行对比分析得出三波相互作用对海浪谱的能量转换影响远大于变浅破碎耗散。想要提高近岸区谱平均周期和海浪谱的模拟精度则SWAN模型中三波非线性项的计算精确度仍需更多研究和改进。  相似文献   

10.
为了研究欧洲北海海域的波高全区域概率分布情况,从而为海洋平台等海洋浮式结构物的选址和结构设计提供依据。首先基于Global Waves Statistics(GWS)提供的实测数据,确定典型计算工况的发生概率;同时考虑实测数据中极端波浪环境下的数据缺失导致大波高分布概率偏小的问题,利用三参数Weibull分布确定不同重现期下的极值风速,作为典型计算工况的补充。以不同风速、风向的定常风场为输入项,利用第三代海浪数值模型SWAN模型,对北海全区域波高进行数值模拟。将数值模拟的稳态形式依照各工况的发生概率进行归一化累加处理,认为其结果可以表征全区域的波高概率分布情况。以波高概率分布的计算结果为依据,分析北海海域波浪环境的统计学特征,发现有效波高为7 m以上的大波高频发区在北海北部区域有大范围分布;有效波高4~5 m为北海东北区域的多发海况,极端海况下的有效波高主要分布于7~14 m区间,在地形突变区域的波高发生显著变化。  相似文献   

11.
太湖风浪场的计算与比较   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
首先探讨了浅水风浪数值模型—SWAN模型应用于模拟内陆湖泊风浪生成和传播变形时的特点。该模型存在不能有效地模拟近固壁边界处风浪场的缺点,以能正确地模拟湖区的风浪场和节约计算时间为原则,确定了计算范围。对太湖进行了风场和风浪场的现场观测。分别利用规范公式和SWAN模型两种方法、根据观测和预报的风场计算了湖区的有效波高,并将计算结果和现场观测值进行了详细比较。结果表明基于观测的风场,利用两种方法所计算的太湖风浪场的精度基本相当;在根据观测的风场、利用SWAN模型计算内陆湖泊的风浪场时,需要精心选择恰当的风场;在根据预报的风场预报湖区风浪场时,SWAN模型的精度要高于规范公式的精度。  相似文献   

12.
将适用于近岸较大区域波浪传播变形的三种模型,即基于抛物型缓坡方程的不规则波模型、引入浅水波浪谱 TMA 谱的 SWAN(simulating waves nearshore)模型以及采用默认 JONSWAP 谱的 SWAN模型应用于特拉华大学(University of Delaware)圆形浅滩实验进行比较.结果显示,抛物型缓坡方程和SWAN 的模拟结果与实验所测数据符合都比较好; SWAN 在非线性作用较强的浅滩中心及靠后部效果更佳,而抛物型缓坡方程由于没有考虑非线性作用,模拟得到的最大波高较实测值偏高,且波高变化较为剧烈.  相似文献   

13.
This paper is aimed at the whole Bohai Sea,as the complement and improvement of wave characteristics and extreme parameters.Wave fields were simulated in the Bohai Sea by using wave model SWAN from 1985 to 2004.The input data based on the hindcast of high-resolution wind fields from RAMS and water level fields from POM,which have been tested and verified well.Comparisons of significant wave heights between simulation and station observations show a good agreement in general.By statistical analysis,the wave characteristics such as significant wave heights, dominant wave directions and their seasonal variations are discussed.In addition,main wave extreme parameters and directional extreme values particularly for 100-year return period are investigated.  相似文献   

14.
The accuracy of nearshore infragravity wave height model predictions has been investigated using a combination of the spectral short wave evolution model SWAN and a linear 1D SurfBeat model (IDSB). Data recorded by a wave rider located approximately 3.5 km from the coast at 18 m water depth have been used to construct the short wave frequency-directional spectra that are subsequently translated to approximately 8 m water depth with the third generation short wave model SWAN. Next the SWAN-computed frequency-directional spectra are used as input for IDSB to compute the infragravity response in the 0.01 Hz–0.05 Hz frequency range, generated by the transformation of the grouped short waves through the surf zone including bound long waves, leaky waves and edge waves at this depth. Comparison of the computed and measured infragravity waves in 8 m water depth shows an average skill of approximately 80%. Using data from a directional buoy located approximately 70 km offshore as input for the SWAN model results in an average infragravity prediction skill of 47%. This difference in skill is in a large part related to the under prediction of the short wave directional spreading by SWAN. Accounting for the spreading mismatch increases the skill to 70%. Directional analyses of the infragravity waves shows that outgoing infragravity wave heights at 8 m depth are generally over predicted during storm conditions suggesting that dissipation mechanisms in addition to bottom friction such as non-linear energy transfer and long wave breaking may be important. Provided that the infragravity wave reflection at the beach is close to unity and tidal water level modulations are modest, a relatively small computational effort allows for the generation of long-term infragravity data sets at intermediate water depths. These data can subsequently be analyzed to establish infragravity wave height design criteria for engineering facilities exposed to the open ocean, such as nearshore tanker offloading terminals at coastal locations.  相似文献   

15.
SWAN模型中不同风拖曳力系数对风浪模拟的影响   总被引:1,自引:1,他引:0  
丁磊  于博 《海洋学报》2017,39(11):14-23
本文以荷兰哈灵水道海域为实验区域,通过敏感性实验,研究了在14 m/s、31.5 m/s和50 m/s(分别代表一般大风、强热带风暴和强台风的极端条件)定常风速下SWAN模型中不同风拖曳力系数对风浪模拟的影响程度。结果表明,对于近岸浅水区域(水深小于20 m),风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高影响较小,而且当风速增加到一定程度后,波浪破碎成为影响波高值的主要因素;对于深水区域(水深大于30 m),一般大风条件下风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高影响仍然较小,随着风速的继续增大,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择对有效波高的影响逐渐显著。对于平均周期,风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择和风速的改变对其影响均较小,而由水深变浅导致的波浪破碎对其影响较为显著。根据敏感性实验结果,本文对SWAN模型中风拖曳力系数计算方案的选择做出如下建议:计算近岸浅水区域风浪场或深水区域一般大风条件风浪场时,其风拖曳力系数可以直接采用模型默认选项;而对于深水区域更大风速条件,可首先采用模型默认选项试算,然后结合当地海域实测波浪资料进行修正。  相似文献   

16.
This study aims to present an evaluation and implementation of a high-resolution SWAN wind wave hindcast model forced by the CFSR wind fields in the west Mediterranean basin, taking into account the recent developments in wave modelling as the new source terms package ST6. For this purpose, the SWAN model was calibrated based on one-year wave observations of Azeffoune buoy (Algerian coast) and validated against eleven wave buoys measurements through the West Mediterranean basin. For the calibration process, we focused on the whitecapping dissipation coefficient Cds and on the exponential wind wave growth and whitecapping dissipation source terms. The statistical error analysis of the calibration results led to conclude that the SWAN model calibration corrected the underestimation of the significant wave height hindcasts in the default mode and improved its accuracy in the West Mediterranean basin. The exponential wind wave growth of Komen et al (1984) and the whitecapping dissipation source terms of Janssen (1991) with Cds = 1.0 have been thus recommended for the western Mediterranean basin. The comparison of the simulation results obtained using this calibrated parameters against eleven measurement buoys showed a high performance of the calibrated SWAN model with an average scatter index of 30% for the significant wave heights and 19% for the mean wave period. This calibrated SWAN model will constitute a practical wave hindcast model with high spatial resolution (˜3 km) and high accuracy in the Algerian basin, which will allow us to proceed to a finer mesh size using the SWAN nested grid system in this area.  相似文献   

17.
Probability distribution of shallow water wave heights, obtained from a pressure type recorder, are examined. It is tested with the theoretical distributions of (a) Rayleigh, (b) Weibull, (c) Gluhovski, (d) Ibrageemov and (e) Goda. The best fit is shown by the Gluhovski probability density function with a correlation coefficient greater than 0.8. The functions of Weibull, Ibrageemov and Goda fit only half of the tested cases. The role of wave steepness in the wave height distribution is found to be negligible.  相似文献   

18.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,43(2):131-148
Four different expressions for wave energy dissipation by bottom friction are intercompared. For this purpose, the SWAN wave model and the wave data set of Lake George (Australia) are used. Three formulations are already present in SWAN (ver. 40.01): the JONSWAP expression, the drag law friction model of Collins and the eddy–viscosity model of Madsen. The eddy–viscosity model of Weber was incorporated into the SWAN code. Using Collins' and Weber's expressions, the depth- and fetch-limited wave growth laws obtained in the nearly idealized situation of Lake George can be reproduced. The wave model has shown the best performance using the formulation of Weber. This formula has some advantages over the other formulations. The expression is based on theoretical and physical principles. The wave height and the peak frequency obtained from the SWAN runs using Weber's bottom friction expression are more consistent with the measurements. The formula of Weber should therefore be preferred when modelling waves in very shallow water.  相似文献   

19.
Numerical Study of Wave Diffraction Effect Introduced in the SWAN Model   总被引:3,自引:0,他引:3  
New version of SWAN model includes the wave diffraction effect which is the main improvement compared with the previous versions.Experimental data collected in the wave basin of the University of Delaware were used to test its performance.Wave heights were compared in the four cases(with different wave energies and directional spreading spectra).The results agreed well with the measurements,especially for the broad directional spectra cases.The effect of wave diffraction was analyzed by switching on/off the corresponding term.By introducing the diffraction term,the distributions of wave height and wave direction were smoothed,especially obvious for the narrow spectrum cases.Compared with the calculations without diffraction,the model with diffraction effect gave better results.  相似文献   

20.
WAVEWATCH和SWAN嵌套模拟台风浪场的结果分析   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
利用WAVEWATCH和SWAN嵌套模拟2007年8月墨西哥湾飓风迪安的波浪场.将QSCAT/NCEP混合风场与台风模型风场合成为背景风场.修改WAVEWATCH和SWAN嵌套接口以使WAVEWATCH和SWAN2种海浪预报模式能够有效地嵌套运行.利用WAVEWATCH和SWAN嵌套模拟飓风迪安的波浪场,采用浮标资料检验模拟结果,以验证WAVEWATCH和SWAN模拟的准确性及修改后嵌套接口的可用性.结果表明,修改嵌套接口之后模式运行平稳,2种模式的结果与浮标及高度计观测数据均基本吻合.嵌套模拟结果好于单纯使用WAVEWATCH模拟的结果,体现了利用2种模式嵌套模拟台风浪场的科学性.  相似文献   

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