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黄河三角洲区域的波流相互作用数值分析 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
将三维水动力-生态模式COHERENS与第三代波浪模式SWAN结合起来,采用该耦合模式数值计算了黄河三角洲的波浪特征波高与特征周期情况,从而探讨水流和波动水位对波浪特征波高和特征周期计算结果的影响。总的说来特征波高、特征周期、流速的计算结果与观测值吻合得较好,说明了COHERENS模式和SWAN模式相结合而成的波流耦合模式能够较好地计算黄河三角洲地区的流场与浪场情况。研究这些动力因素的机制和时空变化规律,对于研究海岸、河口的泥沙运动,海岸侵蚀的机理,合理开发利用自然资源,防止海洋灾害具有十分重大的意义。 相似文献
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Numerical study of three-dimensional suspended sediment transport in waves and currents 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
In the present work, a three-dimensional suspended sediment model (SED) is built. A three-dimensional hydrodynamic model (COHERENS) and a third-generation wave model (SWAN) are fully coupled through accounting for mutual influences between wave and current in them. SED is combined with the coupled model built up above. Damping function of suspended sediment on turbulence is introduced into COHERENS. Then a coupled hydrodynamic–sediment model COHERENS-SED incorporating mutual influences between wave and current is obtained. COHERENS-SED is adopted to simulate three-dimensional suspended sediment transport of Yellow River Delta with wave–current co-existing. The simulated tidal current velocities and suspended sediment concentration match well with field measurement data. The simulated significant wave height and wave period for a case with current's effects can give better agreement with measurement data than a case without current's effects. Numerical simulation results of COHERENS-SED are demonstrated to be reasonable though being compared with previous studies and field measurements [Wang, H., Yang, Z.S., Li, R., Zhang, J., Chang, R., 2001. Numerical modeling of the seabed morphology of the subaqueous Yellow River Delta. International Journal of Sediment Research 16(4), 486–498; Wang, H., 2002. 3-dimensional numerical simulation on the suspended sediment transport from the Huanghe to the Sea. Ph.D. Thesis, Ocean University of China, pp. 12–14 (in Chinese)]. 相似文献
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Numerical study of three-dimensional wave-induced longshore current''s effects on sediment spreading of the Huanghe River mouth 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
A three-dimensional wave radiation stress is introduced into the hydrodynamic sediment coupled model COHERENS-SED,which has been developed through introducing wave-enhanced bottom shear stress,wave dependent surface drag coefficient,wave-induced surface mixing,SWAN,damping function of sediment on turbulence,sediment model and depth-dependent wave radiation stress to COHERENS.The COHERENS-SED is adopted to study the effects induced by wave-induced three-dimensional longshore current on suspended sediment spreading of the Huanghe River (Yellow River) mouth.Several different cases divided by setting different wave parameters of inputting boundary waves are carried out.The modeling results agree with measurement data.In terms of simulation results,it is easy to know that three-dimensional wave radiation stress plays an obvious role when inputting boundary wave height is stronger than 3 m.Moreover,wave direction also affects the sediment spreading rules of the mouth strongly too. 相似文献
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A three-dimensional wave radiation stress is introduced into the hydrodynamic sediment coupled model COHERENS-SED, which has been developed through introducing wave-enhanced bottom shear stress, wave dependent surface drag coefficient, wave-induced surface mixing, SWAN, damping function of sediment on turbulence, sediment model and depth-dependent wave radiation stress to COHERENS. The COHERENS-SED is adopted to study the effects induced by wave-induced three-dimensional longshore current on suspended sediment spreading of the Huanghe River (Yellow River) mouth. Several different cases divided by setting different wave parameters of inputting boundary waves are carried out. The modeling results agree with measurement data. In terms of simulation results, it is easy to know that three-dimensional wave radiation stress plays an obvious role when inputting boundary wave height is stronger than 3 m. Moreover, wave direction also affects the sediment spreading rules of the mouth strongly too. 相似文献
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运用改进的椭圆形风场模型,模拟了9711号台风所经地区风场、气压场的变化过程;将椭圆形风场模型结果结合SWAN波浪模型,计算9711台风过程的波要素;运用COHERENS三维水动力模式,对渤、黄海主要的4个潮分量进行了调和分析,建立渤、黄海天文潮预报模型,并采用三级嵌套模型计算并验证分析了日照近海的水文动力环境;运用基于COHERENS发展的水动力悬沙模型COHERENS-SED,计算分析了9711天气过程、仅考虑潮流作用以及累年平均波要素和一般天气情况(累年平均风场、标准大气压)下的悬沙数值模拟.结果表明:考虑潮流、一般波浪和天气因素共同作用下的水体含沙浓度比仅考虑潮流作用下的水体含沙浓度提高40%～100%的幅度;考虑9711号天气过程以及产生的台风浪作用下的水体含沙浓度比一般波浪和天气因素作用下的水体含沙浓度提高约4倍的幅度. 相似文献
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Climate change, reduced sea ice and increased ice-free waters over extended areas for longer summer periods potentially lead to increased wave energy in the Beaufort Sea (Wang et al., 2015; Khon et al., 2014) [1], [2], which is a major concern for coastal and offshore engineering activities. We compare two spectral wave models SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) and MIKE 21 SW (hereafter MIKE21) in simulations of storm-generated waves in the Mackenzie Delta region of the southern Beaufort Sea. SWAN model simulations are performed using two nested grids system, whereas MIKE21 uses an unstructured grid system. Forcing fields are defined by hourly hindcast winds. Moving ice edge boundaries are incorporated during storm simulations. Modelled wave spectra from four storms are shown to compare well with field observations. Two established whitecapping formulations in SWAN are investigated: one dependent on mean spectral wave steepness, and the other on local spectral steepness. For the Beaufort Sea study area, we suggest that SWAN wave simulations using the latter local spectral steepness formulation are better than those using the former mean spectral steepness formulation. MIKE21 simulations also tend to agree with SWAN results using the latter whitecapping formulation. 相似文献
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The newly developed nearshore circulation model, SHORECIRC, using a hybrid finite-difference finite-volume TVD-type scheme, is coupled with the wave model SWAN in the Nearshore Community Model (NearCoM) system. The new modeling system is named NearCoM-TVD and the purpose of this study is to report the capability and limitation of NearCoM-TVD for several coastal applications. For tidal inlet applications, the model is verified with the semi-analytical solution of Keulegan (1967) for an idealized inlet-bay system. To further evaluate the model performance in predicting nearshore circulation under intense wave–current interaction over complex bathymetry, modeled circulation patterns are validated with measured data during RCEX field experiment (MacMahan et al., 2010). For sediment transport applications, two sediment transport models are applied to predict three sandbar migration events at Duck, NC, during August to October 1994 (Gallagher et al., 1998). The model of Kobayashi et al. (2008) incorporates wave-induced onshore sediment transport rate as a function of the standard deviation of wave-induced horizontal velocities. The modeled beach profile evolution for two offshore events and one onshore event agrees well with the measured data. The second model investigated here combines two published sediment transport models, namely, the total load model driven by currents under the effect of wave stirring (Soulsby, 1997) and the wave-driven sediment transport model due to wave asymmetry/skewness (van Rijn et al., 2011). The model study with limited field data suggests that the parameterization of wave stirring is appropriate during energetic wave conditions. However, during low energy wave conditions, the effect of wave stirring needs to be re-calibrated. 相似文献
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This study aims to present an evaluation and implementation of a high-resolution SWAN wind wave hindcast model forced by the CFSR wind fields in the west Mediterranean basin, taking into account the recent developments in wave modelling as the new source terms package ST6. For this purpose, the SWAN model was calibrated based on one-year wave observations of Azeffoune buoy (Algerian coast) and validated against eleven wave buoys measurements through the West Mediterranean basin. For the calibration process, we focused on the whitecapping dissipation coefficient Cds and on the exponential wind wave growth and whitecapping dissipation source terms. The statistical error analysis of the calibration results led to conclude that the SWAN model calibration corrected the underestimation of the significant wave height hindcasts in the default mode and improved its accuracy in the West Mediterranean basin. The exponential wind wave growth of Komen et al (1984) and the whitecapping dissipation source terms of Janssen (1991) with Cds = 1.0 have been thus recommended for the western Mediterranean basin. The comparison of the simulation results obtained using this calibrated parameters against eleven measurement buoys showed a high performance of the calibrated SWAN model with an average scatter index of 30% for the significant wave heights and 19% for the mean wave period. This calibrated SWAN model will constitute a practical wave hindcast model with high spatial resolution (˜3 km) and high accuracy in the Algerian basin, which will allow us to proceed to a finer mesh size using the SWAN nested grid system in this area. 相似文献
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Matthew Browne Bruno Castelle Darrell Strauss Rodger Tomlinson Michael Blumenstein Chris Lane 《Coastal Engineering》2007
Estimation of swell conditions in coastal regions is important for a variety of public, government, and research applications. Driving a model of the near-shore wave transformation from an offshore global swell model such as NOAA WaveWatch3 is an economical means to arrive at swell size estimates at particular locations of interest. Recently, some work (e.g. Browne et al. [Browne, M., Strauss, D., Castelle, B., Blumenstein, M., Tomlinson, R., 2006. Local swell estimation and prediction from a global wind-wave model. IEEE Geoscience and Remote Sensing Letters 3 (4), 462–466.]) has examined an artificial neural network (ANN) based, empirical approach to wave estimation. Here, we provide a comprehensive evaluation of two data driven approaches to estimating waves near-shore (linear and ANN), and also contrast these with a more traditional spectral wave simulation model (SWAN). Performance was assessed on data gathered from a total of 17 near-shore locations, with heterogenous geography and bathymetry, around the continent of Australia over a 7 month period. It was found that the ANNs out-performed SWAN and the non-linear architecture consistently out-performed the linear method. Variability in performance and differential performance with regard to geographical location could largely be explained in terms of the underlying complexity of the local wave transformation. 相似文献
11.
Choi Young-Kwang Seo Seung-Nam Choi Jin-Yong Shi Fengyan Park Kwang-Soon 《海洋学报(英文版)》2019,38(7):36-47
A wave forecasting system using FUNWAVE-TVD which is based on the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations by Chen(2006) was developed to provide an accurate wave prediction in the Port of Busan, South Korea. This system is linked to the Korea Operational Oceanographic System(KOOS) developed by Park et al.(2015). The computational domain covers a region of 9.6 km×7.0 km with a grid size of 2 m in both directions, which is sufficient to resolve short waves and dominant sea states. The total number of grid points exceeds 16 millions,making the model computational expensive. To provide real-time forecasting, an interpolation method, which is based on pre-calculated results of FUNWAVE-TVD and SWAN forecasting results at the FUNWAVE-TVD offshore boundary, was used. A total of 45 cases were pre-calculated, which took 71 days on 924 computational cores of a Linux cluster system. Wind wave generation and propagation from the deep water were computed using the SWAN in KOOS. SWAN results provided a boundary condition for the FUNWAVE-TVD forecasting system. To verify the model, wave observations were conducted at three locations inside the port in a time period of more than 7 months. A model/model comparison between FUNWAVE-TVD and SWAN was also carried out. It is found that, FUNWAVE-TVD improves the forecasting results significantly compared to SWAN which underestimates wave heights in sheltered areas due to incorrect physical mechanism of wave diffraction, as well as large wave heights caused by wave reflections inside the port. 相似文献
12.
Wave dissipation by vegetation with layer schematization in SWAN 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Tomohiro Suzuki Marcel ZijlemaBastiaan Burger Martijn C. MeijerSiddharth Narayan 《Coastal Engineering》2012,59(1):64-71
The energy of waves propagating through vegetation is dissipated due to the work done by the waves on the vegetation. Dalrymple et al. (1984) estimated wave dissipation by integrating the force on a cylinder over its vertical extent. This was extended by Mendez and Losada (2004) to include varying depths and the effects of wave damping due to vegetation and wave breaking for narrow-banded random waves. This paper describes the wave dissipation over a vegetation field by the implementation of the Mendez and Losada formulation in a full spectrum model SWAN, with an extension to include a vertical layer schematization for the vegetation. The present model is validated with the original equation and results from Mendez and Losada (2004). The sensitivity of the model to the shape of the frequency spectrum, directional spreading and layer schematization are investigated. The model is then applied to field measurements by using a vegetation factor. This model has the ability to calculate two-dimensional wave dissipation over a vegetation field including some important aspects such as breaking and diffraction as used in SWAN model. 相似文献
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Effect of Langmuir circulation (LC) on upper ocean mixing is investigated by a two-way wave-current coupled model. Themodel is coupled of the ocean circulationmodel ROMS (regional ocean modeling system) to the surface wave model SWAN (simulating waves nearshore) via the model-coupling toolkit. The LC already certified its importance by many one-dimensional (1D) research andmechanismanalysis work. This work focuses on inducing LC’s effect in a three-dimensional (3-D) model and applying it to real field modeling. In ROMS, theMellor-Yamada turbulence closuremixing scheme is modified by including LC’s effect. The SWAN imports bathymetry, free surface and current information fromthe ROMS while exports significant wave parameters to the ROMS for Stokes wave computing every 6 s. This coupled model is applied to the South China Sea (SCS) during September 2008 cruise. The results show that LC increasing turbulence and deepening mixed layer depth (MLD) at order of O (10 m) in most of the areas, especially in the north part of SCS where most of our measurements operated. The coupled model further includes wave breaking which will bringsmore energy into water. When LC works together with wave breaking,more energy is transferred into deep layer and accelerates the MLD deepening. In the north part of the SCS, their effects aremore obvious. This is consistent with big wind event in the area of the Zhujiang River Delta. The shallow water depth as another reasonmakes themeasy to influence the oceanmixing as well. 相似文献
14.
W. E. Rogers J. M. Kaihatu H. A. H. Petit N. Booij L. H. Holthuijsen 《Ocean Engineering》2002,29(11):1357-1390
The numerical schemes for the geographic propagation of random, short-crested, wind-generated waves in third-generation wave models are either unconditionally stable or only conditionally stable. Having an unconditionally stable scheme gives greater freedom in choosing the time step (for given space steps). The third-generation wave model SWAN (“Simulated WAves Nearshore”, Booij et al., 1999) has been implemented with this type of scheme. This model uses a first order, upwind, implicit numerical scheme for geographic propagation. The scheme can be employed for both stationary (typically small scale) and nonstationary (i.e. time-stepping) computations. Though robust, this first order scheme is very diffusive. This degrades the accuracy of the model in a number of situations, including most model applications at larger scales. The authors reduce the diffusiveness of the model by replacing the existing numerical scheme with two alternative higher order schemes, a scheme that is intended for stationary, small-scale computations, and a scheme that is most appropriate for nonstationary computations. Examples representative of both large-scale and small-scale applications are presented. The alternative schemes are shown to be much less diffusive than the original scheme while retaining the implicit character of the particular SWAN set-up. The additional computational burden of the stationary alternative scheme is negligible, and the expense of the nonstationary alternative scheme is comparable to those used by other third generation wave models. To further accommodate large-scale applications of SWAN, the model is reformulated in terms of spherical coordinates rather than the original Cartesian coordinates. Thus the modified model can calculate wave energy propagation accurately and efficiently at any scale varying from laboratory dimensions (spatial scale O(10 m) with resolution O(0.1 m)), to near-shore coastal dimension (spatial scale O(10 km) with resolution O(100 m)) to oceanic dimensions (spatial scale O(10 000 km) with resolution O(100 km). 相似文献
15.
台风是影响中国黄东海的强天气现象，其引起的强风、巨浪和台风增水严重威胁着沿海地区人民的生命与财产安全。本文以海浪模式SWAN（Simulating Waves Nearshore）与区域海洋模式ROMS（Regional Ocean Modeling System）为基础，构建了中国黄东海海域在201509号台风“灿鸿”影响下的海浪-海洋耦合模式。通过浮标与Jason-2高度计有效波高数据验证了模式结果的准确性。进行了敏感性实验分析，对比耦合（ROMS+SWAN）与非耦合（SWAN）下以及使用不同地形数据（ETOPO1、ETOPO2、GEBCO）、不同物理参数化方案（风能输入、白冠耗散、底摩擦耗散）下的模拟结果差异。结果发现在射阳与前三岛浮标处，使用GEBCO地形数据（15弧秒间隔）下的模拟效果更好且稳定。在空间分布上，台风中心附近的浪流相互作用显著，在其前进方向右侧表现为耦合的有效波高值低于非耦合有效波高值，差值最高可达1米。选择不同风输入与耗散项方案时的模拟差异主要发生在最大波高处，选择不同的风能输入与白冠耗散项方案带来的差异接近0.4米，而底摩擦项方案选择不同带来的差异接近1米。因而在模拟实际的海况时，需要综合考虑这些因素带来的影响，才能达到SWAN海浪模型最好的海浪模拟效果。 相似文献
16.
《Ocean Modelling》2008,20(3):252-269
The effects of wave–current interactions on the storm surge and inundation induced by Hurricane Hugo in and around the Charleston Harbor and its adjacent coastal regions are examined by using a three-dimensional (3-D) wave–current coupled modeling system. The 3-D storm surge and inundation modeling component of the coupled system is based on the Princeton ocean model (POM), whereas the wave modeling component is based on the third-generation wave model, simulating waves nearshore (SWAN). The results indicate that the effects of wave-induced surface, bottom, and radiation stresses can separately or in combination produce significant changes in storm surge and inundation. The effects of waves vary spatially. In some areas, the contribution of waves to peak storm surge during Hurricane Hugo reached as high as 0.76 m which led to substantial changes in the inundation and drying areas simulated by the storm surge model. 相似文献
17.
Modelling the influence of currents on wave propagation at the entrance of the Tagus estuary 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
L. Rusu 《Ocean Engineering》2011,38(10):1174-1183
A study of the wave propagation and of the consequences of the influence of currents on waves in the Tagus estuary is performed in the present work. For this purpose a high-resolution SWAN domain was coupled to a wave prediction system based on the two state of the art phase averaged wave models, WAM for wave generation and SWAN for nearshore wave transformation. The most important factors affecting the incoming waves are the local currents and the wind. These influences were evaluated by performing SWAN simulations in the target area with and respectively without considering the tide level and tide induced currents. The model results were compared with wave measurements, validating in this way the results of the wave prediction system developed herewith. 相似文献
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Tropical cyclone ocean–wave model interactions are examined using an ESMF – (Earth System Modeling Framework) based tropical cyclone (TC) version of the Coupled Ocean/Atmosphere Mesoscale Prediction System (COAMPS®1). This study investigates Hurricane Ivan, which traversed the Gulf of Mexico (GOM) in September 2004. Several oceanic and wave observational data sets, including Acoustic Doppler Current Profilers (ADCPs), National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) buoys, satellite altimeter data, and Scanning Radar Altimeter (SRA) data, allow for a unique analysis of the coupled atmosphere, ocean (Navy Coastal Ocean Model, NCOM), and wave (Simulating WAves Nearshore, SWAN) models in COAMPS-TC. To determine the feasibility of coupling NCOM to SWAN in high-wind conditions during Hurricane Ivan, near-surface currents in NCOM were first compared to near-surface ADCP observations. Recent modifications to SWAN, including new wind-to-wave energy input and wave-breaking energy dissipation source functions, as well as a new ocean surface drag coefficient formulation appropriate for high-wind conditions, significantly improved the forecast wave field properties, such as significant wave height (SWH), in TC conditions. Further results show that the ocean-to-wave model coupling, which allows for the strong, hurricane-induced, surface currents in NCOM to interact with SWAN, provided additional improvements to the forecast SWH field. Additionally, wave-to-ocean model coupling, which included the input of the Stokes Drift Current (SDC) calculated from the SWAN wave spectra to NCOM, is examined. The models indicate that the SDC was on the order of 10–25% of the near-surface Eulerian current during Ivan. Recent studies of the importance of the SDC and the resulting Langmuir turbulence on vertical ocean mixing in TCs is also discussed. 相似文献
19.
长江口附近海域台风浪的数值模拟——以鹿沙台风和森拉克台风为例 总被引：18，自引：0，他引：18
利用SWAN波浪模型计算长江口附近海域的台风浪,鉴于长江河口岸界和地形复杂,拟采用曲线网格.为证实曲线网格下的SWAN模型对于复杂地形的有效性,首先选用美国特拉华大学波浪水池实验资料对SWAN模型进行检验,结果表明利用曲线网格能不过多增加计算量而提高关键区域的计算精度.以0215号鹿沙台风和0216号森拉克台风为例,将SWAN模型应用到长江口附近海域,进行台风浪的数值模拟.通过浮标测站实测资料验证,表明有效波高计算值与实测值符合良好.通过综合分析模型计算的波浪场,说明SWAN模型能合理地反映长江口附近海域台风浪的分布. 相似文献
20.
采用传统的理论模型或者经验公式构建台风动力场驱动海浪模式,无法反映台风影响下海气动力过程,难以为海浪模式提供高精度的台风风场、气压场数据。为解决这一问题,基于中尺度大气模式WRF和第三代海浪模式SWAN,构建大气-海浪实时双向耦合模式,并将其应用于理想台风的模拟之中。建立的WRF-SWAN耦合模式能够成功模拟理想台风影响下的台风浪分布特征,揭示了台风风场和台风浪在空间上的“右偏性”不对称分布特征,该模型可推广用于实际台风浪的模拟分析。 相似文献