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1.
A three-dimensional wave radiation stress is introduced into the hydrodynamic sediment coupled model COHERENS-SED, which has been developed through introducing wave-enhanced bottom shear stress, wave dependent surface drag coefficient, wave-induced surface mixing, SWAN, damping function of sediment on turbulence, sediment model and depth-dependent wave radiation stress to COHERENS. The COHERENS-SED is adopted to study the effects induced by wave-induced three-dimensional longshore current on suspended sediment spreading of the Huanghe River (Yellow River) mouth. Several different cases divided by setting different wave parameters of inputting boundary waves are carried out. The modeling results agree with measurement data. In terms of simulation results, it is easy to know that three-dimensional wave radiation stress plays an obvious role when inputting boundary wave height is stronger than 3 m. Moreover, wave direction also affects the sediment spreading rules of the mouth strongly too. 相似文献
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Numerical study of three-dimensional suspended sediment transport in waves and currents 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
In the present work, a three-dimensional suspended sediment model (SED) is built. A three-dimensional hydrodynamic model (COHERENS) and a third-generation wave model (SWAN) are fully coupled through accounting for mutual influences between wave and current in them. SED is combined with the coupled model built up above. Damping function of suspended sediment on turbulence is introduced into COHERENS. Then a coupled hydrodynamic–sediment model COHERENS-SED incorporating mutual influences between wave and current is obtained. COHERENS-SED is adopted to simulate three-dimensional suspended sediment transport of Yellow River Delta with wave–current co-existing. The simulated tidal current velocities and suspended sediment concentration match well with field measurement data. The simulated significant wave height and wave period for a case with current's effects can give better agreement with measurement data than a case without current's effects. Numerical simulation results of COHERENS-SED are demonstrated to be reasonable though being compared with previous studies and field measurements [Wang, H., Yang, Z.S., Li, R., Zhang, J., Chang, R., 2001. Numerical modeling of the seabed morphology of the subaqueous Yellow River Delta. International Journal of Sediment Research 16(4), 486–498; Wang, H., 2002. 3-dimensional numerical simulation on the suspended sediment transport from the Huanghe to the Sea. Ph.D. Thesis, Ocean University of China, pp. 12–14 (in Chinese)]. 相似文献
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Mingzheng Wen Hongxian Shan Shaotong Zhang Xiaolei Liu 《Marine Georesources & Geotechnology》2019,37(1):96-102
The objective of this study was to investigate that the effects of different hydrodynamic conditions on sediment resuspension on a tidal mudflat in the Yellow River Estuary. A field experiment was conducted on an intertidal flat of the Yellow River Delta, China. The sediment resuspension concentrations and hydrodynamic conditions were obtained in the field from September 2–7, 2013. The resuspended sediment concentrations induced by wave loading were compared with those induced by coupled wave–current actions in Yellow River Delta. The results were as follows: (1) when the wave height was higher than 10?cm and the shear stress induced by the waves was greater than the critical stress of the seabed sediments, the surface seabed was eroded and sediment was resuspended. In addition, 60% of the significant wave heights were larger than 10?cm on the intertidal flat of the Yellow River Delta. (2) The contribution of waves to sediment resuspension was greater than 30% when the significant wave height is higher than 10?cm, and the average contribution of waves to sediment resuspension was 51%. The mechanism of wave-induced sediment resuspension and processes of sediment resuspension were described in this paper. 相似文献
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黄河口潮滩以其悬浮沉积物浓度高而闻名。但是，目前对其高浓度悬浮沉积物的控制因素和来源的了解尚不清晰。因此，本文基于黄河口潮滩上为期7天的水动力(水深，波高和水流速度)和悬浮沉积物浓度观测，对黄河口潮滩不同海况下悬浮沉积物的控制因素和来源进行分析。数据显示，在大部分时间里，黄河口潮滩处于1级海况下(波高小于0.1m)，SSC的变化范围为0.1-3.5 g/L，潮流的沉积物输运为悬浮沉积物的主要来源。但是，当水动力作用增强并且导致海底发生大规模侵蚀时，再悬浮沉积物成为了悬浮沉积物的主要来源，水体中的悬浮沉积物浓度可达到17.3 g/L。我们发现悬浮泥沙通量主要受平流输运的控制，而波浪引起的切应力也可通过影响悬浮泥沙浓度影响悬浮泥沙通量的变化。在观测期间， 1级海况下，流致再悬浮沉积物浓度(RSC)大于波致RSC。与此相反，在2级海况下，波致RSC大于流致RSC，例如，在观测期间出现的单个波浪事件导致6小时内海床被侵蚀了11.8 cm。该研究揭示了河控河流三角洲潮滩附近高悬浮沉积物浓度的不同控制因素，并有助于我们更好地了解三角洲的沉积和侵蚀机制。 相似文献
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The three-dimensional numerical model with σ-coordinate transformation in the vertical direction is applied to the simulation of surface water waves and wave-induced laminar boundary layers. Unlike most of the previous investigations that solved the simplified one-dimensional boundary layer equation of motion and neglected the interaction between boundary layer and outside flow, the present model solves the full Navier–Stokes equations (NSE) in the entire domain from bottom to free surface. A non-uniform mesh system is used in the vertical direction to resolve the thin boundary layer. Linear wave, Stokes wave, cnoidal wave and solitary wave are considered. The numerical results are compared to analytical solutions and available experimental data. The numerical results agree favorably to all of the experimental data. It is found that the analytical solutions are accurate for both linear wave and Stokes wave but inadequate for cnoidal wave or solitary wave. The possible reason is that the existing analytical solutions for cnoidal and solitary waves adopt the first-order approximation for free stream velocity and thus overestimate the near bottom velocity. Besides velocity, the present model also provides accurate results for wave-induced bed shear stress. 相似文献
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研究了波致底切应力和二维辐射应力对悬沙的作用.首先对东山湾的水动力进行了数值模拟并与实测资料进行了对比检验,然后对东山湾悬浮泥沙进行了考虑波浪和不考虑波浪两种情况下的数值模拟并与实测资料进行了相关对比分析.在模式建立过程中,依据东山湾独特的窄口型半封闭河口海湾的特点,基于ECOMSED模式（2002）建立了东山湾三维水动力模型,并通过第三代海浪模式MASNUM加入了波浪对底切应力及辐射应力的影响,通过ECOMSED中的底边界层模型考虑了波浪增强底摩擦的作用,综合分析了东山湾的水动力及泥沙状况.结果表明在东山湾数值模拟中,该模式能较好地模拟这类海域的水动力及泥沙输运状况.在东山湾模拟计算中,潮流的作用强于波浪的作用,但考虑波浪因素后,泥沙模拟结果更好.在波浪的作用中,底切应力相比于二维辐射应力占有绝对的优势,两者相差2个量级以上,因此可以不考虑二维辐射应力的影响. 相似文献
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Three-dimensional numerical modeling of nearshore circulation 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
SUN Detong 《海洋学报(英文版)》2008,27(Z1):101-118
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风作用于水面产生风浪, 其中由于波流紊动产生的动量和能量的交换机制是一个很复杂的过程。风应力一般用来描述这种能量交换, 可以分为3个部分: 水面的剪切力、波生应力以及紊动应力。采用一种有效的非线性波流分离方法——NSFM(Nonlinear Stream Function Method)对波流运动的动量和能量输移进行定性描述。构造能够有效表达非线性波浪的解析流函数, 摄动求解使其满足拉普拉斯方程、动力边界条件和运动边界条件, 结合实验室风浪数据, 分离出波生速度场。通过交叉谱分析, 得到波生雷诺应力在不同风速下对风应力的贡献。结果表明: NSFM对不同工况条件下的风浪的处理具有较高的精度, 模型适应性良好; 且风速越大, 波生应力沿着水深衰减得越快, 且自由面波生应力在动量输移中的比重会逐渐减弱。 相似文献
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The effect of wave-induced radiation stress on storm surge during Typhoon Saomai (2006) 总被引：5，自引：1，他引：4
The effects of wave-induced radiation stress on storm surge were simulated during Typhoon Saomai using a wave-current coupled model based on ROMS (Regional Ocean Modeling System) ocean model and SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) wave model.The results show that radiation stress can cause both set-up and set-down in the storm surge.Wave-induced set-up near the coast can be explained by decreasing significant wave heights as the waves propagate shoreward in an approximately uniform direction;wave-induced set-down far from the coast can be explained by the waves propagating in an approximately uniform direction with increasing significant wave heights.The shoreward radiation stress is the essential reason for the wave-induced set-up along the coast.The occurrence of set-down can be also explained by the divergence of the radiation stress.The maximum wave-induced set-up occurs on the right side of the Typhoon path,whereas the maximum wave induced set-down occurs on the left side. 相似文献
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By coupling the three-dimensional hydrodynamic model with the wave model, numerical simulations of the three-dimensional wave-induced current are carried out in this study. The wave model is based on the numerical solution of the modified wave action equation and eikonal equation, which can describe the wave refraction and diffraction. The hydrodynamic model is driven by the wave-induced radiation stresses and affected by the wave turbulence. The numerical implementation of the module has used the finite-volume schemes on unstructured grid, which provides great flexibility for modeling the waves and currents in the complex actual nearshore, and ensures the conservation of energy propagation. The applicability of the proposed model is evaluated in calculating the cases of wave set-up, longshore currents, undertow on a sloping beach, rip currents and meandering longshore currents on a tri-cuspate beach. The results indicate that it is necessary to introduce the depth-dependent radiation stresses into the numerical simulation of wave-induced currents, and comparisons show that the present model makes better prediction on the wave procedure as well as both horizontal and vertical structures in the wave-induced current field. 相似文献
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Numerical Simulation of Spatial Lag Between Wave Breaking Point and Location of Maximum Wave-Induced Current 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
A quasi three-dimensional numerical model of wave-driven coastal currents with the effects of surface rollers is developed for the study of the spatial lag between the location of the maximum wave-induced current and the wave breaking point.The governing equations are derived from Navier-Stokes equations and solved by the hybrid method combining the fractional step finite different method in the horizontal plane with a Galerkin finite element method in the vertical direction.The surface rollers effects are considered through incorporating the creation and evolution of the roller area into the free surface shear stress.An energy equation facilitates the computation process which transfers the wave breaking energy dissipation to the surface roller energy.The wave driver model is a phase-averaged wave model based on the wave action balance equation.Two sets of laboratory experiments producing breaking waves that generated longshore currents on a planar beach are used to evaluate the model's performance.The present wave-driven coastal current model with the roller effect in the surface shear stress term can produce satisfactory results by increasing the wave-induced nearshore current velocity inside the surf zone and shifting the location of the maximum longshore current velocity landward. 相似文献
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Vertical variations of wave-induced radiation stress tensor 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
INTRODUcrIONThe concept of radiation stress was deve1oPed by tonguet--Higgins and Stewart (1964 ),who intreduced the definition of radiation stress as the excess mornentum due to the presence ofwaves, on the basis of time-averaged laws of Newtonian fluid mechanics and the assmption ofa unifOrm velocity distribution over depth. Subequently, the theory has been applied success-fully in the investigation of phenomena such as wave set-up and set--down (Bowen et al.,l968), longshore currents … 相似文献
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Numerical Simulation of Local Scour Around A Large Circular Cylinder Under Wave Action 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
A horizontal two- dimensional numerical model is developed for estimation of sediment transport and sea bed change around a large circular cylinder under wave action. The wave model is based on an elliptic mild slope equation. The wave-induced current by the gradient of radiation stress is considered and a depth integrated shallow water equation is applied to the calculation of the current. The mass transport velocity and the bed shear stress due to streaming are considered, which are important factors affecting the sediment transport around a structure due to waves, especially in reflective areas. Wave-current interaction is taken into account in the model for computing the bed shear stress. The model is implemented by a finite element method. The results of this model are compared with those from other methods and agree well with experimental data. 相似文献
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风浪和海洋飞沫对海表面拖曳系数和风廓线的影响 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
基于埃克曼理论,本文将波致应力和飞沫应力引入到海-气边界层的界面应力中,来研究海表面风浪和海洋飞沫对海-气边界层动量交换的影响,并得到修改后的埃克曼模型的理论解。波致应力是由风浪谱和波增长函数估计,并得到在中低风速下,波致应力、飞沫应力与湍流应力相比,对海表面拖曳系数和风廓线的影响非常小。当风速高于25米/秒时,海洋飞沫通过飞沫应力对海-气界面应力的作用远高于波致应力,以至于波致应力可以忽略。海表面拖曳系数在高风速下,随着风速的增大而减小。通过采用风浪谱的不同波龄,得到海洋飞沫的产生会导致海-气边界层风速的增加。最后,理论解与现场的观察数据进行了对比。对比后的数据表明,在中高风速下,飞沫对海-气边界层的影响远大于表面风浪。 相似文献
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Nearshore shoaling and breaking waves can drive a complex circulation system of wave-induced currents. In the cross-shore direction, the local vertical imbalance between the gradient of radiation stress and that of pressure due to the setup drives an offshore flow near the bottom, called ‘undertow’, which plays a significant role in the beach profile evolution and the structure stability in coastal regions. A 1DV undertow model was developed based on the relationship between the turbulent shear stress and t... 相似文献
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根据现场地形在港池中建立三维珊瑚礁?潟湖?裂口海岸定床整体物理模型,采用波高传感器、流速仪和表面流速测量系统分别测量了规则波作用下珊瑚礁海岸不同位置的波浪和流场特征。结果表明:礁坪上,波高在向岸方向逐渐减小,总减小幅度为86.7%,增水先增大后减小,沿礁坪下降幅度为65.9%,水流以向岸流为主,存在着先增大后减小的趋势;潟湖中,波高靠近裂口处较大,中部最大值约为两侧最小值的2.8倍,增水则靠近裂口处最小,相比两侧最大值下降了25.5%,水流主要为对称地指向裂口的沿岸流,流速从两侧到裂口先增大后减小;裂口中波高变化不大,增水在靠近潟湖处最大,为礁坪上增水的47.6%,水流主要为离岸流,流速同样是先增大后减小。量化分析了环流驱动力、辐射应力与波面压力梯度的空间变化规律,发现礁坪上向岸流变化是平均水位梯度和辐射应力相互作用的结果,在裂口中的离岸流驱动力主要为辐射应力,而潟湖中的沿岸流变化由平均水位梯度决定的。 相似文献
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《Ocean Modelling》2011,39(3-4):230-243
A three-dimensional numerical model was established to simulate the wave-induced currents. The depth-varying residual momentum, surface roller, wave horizontal and vertical turbulent mixing effects were incorporated as major driving forces. A surface roller evolution model considering the energy transfer, roller density and bottom slope dissipation was developed. The expression of the wave-induced horizontal turbulent mixing coefficient proposed by Larson and Kraus (1991) was extended to three-dimensional form. Plenty of experimental cases were used to validate the established model covering the wave setup, undertow, longshore currents and rip currents. Validation results showed the model could reasonably describe the main characteristics of different wave-induced current phenomena. The incorporation of surface roller for breaking waves should not be neglected in the modeling of surfzone hydrodynamics. The wave-induced turbulent mixing affects the structures of wave-induced current either in horizontal or in vertical directions. Sensitivity analysis of the major calibration parameters in the established model was made and their ranges were evaluated. 相似文献
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The velocity fluctuations of wind over wind-waves in a wind tunnel are measured with a X-type hot-wire anemometer at some heights over the water surface.The observed vertical profiles of the wave-induced velocity fluctuations and the wave-induced Reynolds stress at the wave spectral peak frequency are different from those expected from the inviscid quasi-laminar model;i.e., the observed vertical profiles of the power spectral density of the wave-induced horizontal or vertical velocity fluctuations of wind have the minimum value at the height much heigher than the critical layer, and the value of the wave-induced Reynolds stress is negative at several heights over the water surface. From the comparison between the experimental results and the numerical solutions of a linear model of the turbulent shear flow over the wavy boundary, it is shown that the discrepancy described above can be attributed to the atmospheric turbulence. 相似文献