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1.
波浪在斜坡地形上破碎,破波后稳定波高多采用物理模型试验方法进行研究,利用近岸波浪传播变形的抛物型缓坡方程和波能流平衡方程,导出了适用于斜坡上波浪破碎的数值模拟方法。首先根据波能流平衡方程和缓坡方程基本型式分析波浪在破波带内的波能变化和衰减率,推导了波浪传播模型中波能衰减因子和破波能量流衰减因子之间的关系;其次,利用陡坡地形上的高阶抛物型缓坡方程建立了波浪传播和波浪破碎数学模型;最后,根据物理模型试验实测数据对数值模拟的效果进行验证。数值计算与试验资料比较表明,该模型可以较好地模拟斜坡地形的波浪传播波高变化。  相似文献   

2.
近岸植被对波浪爬坡具有一定的衰减作用。在自然界中,由于植被的死亡、再生或人为破坏等原因,近岸植被通常呈片状分布,且其内部分布也是不均匀的。本文以完全非线性Boussinesq方程为基础,引入植被作用项,建立了模拟近岸植被区波浪传播的数值模型,验证了模型可靠性,进而采用该模型模拟分析了片状分布植被对孤立波爬高的影响。数值模拟结果表明,片状分布植被能有效减小孤立波爬高;对于均匀分布的片状植被,高密度片状植被对孤立波爬高的消减效果优于低密度片状植被;对于相同密度、不同分布形式的片状植被,均匀分布的片状植被对孤立波的消减效果优于不均匀分布的片状植被;对于不均匀分布的片状植被,前密后疏的片状植被对孤立波的消减效果优于前疏后密的片状植被。  相似文献   

3.
近岸波浪破碎区不规则波浪的数值模拟   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2       下载免费PDF全文
唐军  沈永明  崔雷  邱大洪 《海洋学报》2008,30(2):147-152
基于近岸不规则波浪传播的抛物型缓坡方程和两类波浪破碎能量损耗因子,对近岸波浪破碎区不规则波浪的波高分布进行了数值模拟,并结合实验结果对数值模拟结果进行了验证分析,结果表明采用两类波浪破碎能量损耗因子所模拟的破碎区波高与实测值均吻合良好,波浪破碎能量损耗因子及波浪破碎指标对破碎区波浪波高分布影响较明显。  相似文献   

4.
利用WAVEWATCH Ⅲ(WW3)和SWAN海浪模式模拟了1949—2005年间对钦州湾海域影响较大的台风浪.以模拟结果为基础,利用皮尔逊Ⅲ(P-Ⅲ)频率适线法推算了钦州湾湾外深水的累积频率波高和平均波周期(Tm)的多年一遇极值,同时模拟了其间在百年一遇高潮水位条件下的台风浪,以及在百年一遇高潮水位、百年一遇风暴潮增水共同作用下对钦州湾影响较大的台风产生的波浪场.使用P-Ⅲ法推算了在极端天气下,钦州湾湾内统计点的累积波高和平均波周期的多年一遇极值.研究结果表明,由于湾内浅滩较多,波浪在传播过程中水体底部摩擦使能量耗损明显,所以湾内波高较小,湾口处的波高大于内湾处的波高.近岸海区的波浪耗散、破碎等物理过程比较强烈,因此近岸统计点C1处的波高极值最小,其最大波高向岸边快速减弱并沿东向传播.在极端天气情况下,波浪在传播过程中发生破碎,波高衰减显著.  相似文献   

5.
沿海盐沼潮滩可以有效降低波浪高度,耗散波浪能量,在海岸防护和沿海城市安全中扮演着重要角色。以长江河口崇明岛南侧盐沼潮滩为对象,基于不同潮间带实测波浪变化数据,采用波能衰减模型对波浪横向沿潮滩衰减状态进行定量分析,由此探讨波浪衰减主控要素。结果表明:波浪沿盐沼潮滩向岸传播过程中,波高以及波能大幅下降,其中光滩—芦苇前部区域波能平均下降19%,芦苇区域波能平均下降71%,有植被覆盖区域对波浪的衰减效应更为显著。同时,水深、入射波高及阻力是影响盐沼潮滩波浪衰减的主要因素,波浪衰减强度随水深增大而减小,入射波高增加以及阻力的增大而增强。  相似文献   

6.
使用近岸波浪模型SWAN计算存在沿岸流和离岸流时的近岸波浪传播。先设离岸流u=0m/s,模拟均匀、非均匀沿岸流的流速和梯度对波高传播的影响;再设沿岸流v=0.5m/s,模拟均匀、非均匀离岸流的流速和梯度对波能高传播的影响。从模拟中得到,近岸波浪传播受沿岸流、离岸流的流速和梯度影响时,波高的变化规律。  相似文献   

7.
为研究位于大万山岛南部的波能测试区新增发电机组对该水域波浪场产生的水动力作用,将自主建立的二维Boussinesq波浪模型应用于该测试区,模拟了不同波浪要素下装置布设前线性波的运动传播,装置布设后无锚固时其在波浪中的自由运动、有锚固时其对波浪场的影响。结果表明,装置布设前的波浪传播,低潮位时波峰线相较高潮位时更为明显,且受陆域影响更大;装置无锚固时的自由运动,低潮位时其运动速度、旋转角速度均小于高潮位时;装置有锚固时,其对波浪场的影响主要集中在背波面,会形成一道顺波向的"扇形"衰减区,其影响程度随波高、波周期的增大而减小。因此,根据研究结果所得到的相对波高衰减范围,可对后期2,3号发电装置的规划与布设提供科学依据,即尽量避开由1号装置引起的波高衰减区,以免造成波能利用率的降低。  相似文献   

8.
采用孤立波模拟海啸波,利用根茎叶定量概化模型近似模拟近岸刚性植物,以探究植物根、茎、叶对孤立波消减特性的影响。研究发现,透射系数的范围为0.56~0.85,植被区沿程波高衰减百分比的范围为25.9%~97.0%。根、叶在不同分布密度条件下的透射系数均随相对波高的增大而逐渐减小。当淹没度大于0.7时,在入射波高等于7.0,9.0和12.0 cm条件下,波高衰减强度沿流向的敏感度逐渐降低,植物消浪呈现边界效应。当淹没度为0.6、根和叶分布密度均为16枝/株时,波浪于植被区发生波高增大现象,波高增值的范围为3.0%~6.0%。植物根、茎、叶对孤立波消减特性的影响与根和叶的分布密度、淹没度及相对波高均相关。  相似文献   

9.
近岸波浪在刚性植被区域传播的数值模型   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
基于扩展型Boussinesq水波方程,建立了波浪在刚性植被覆盖的近岸海域传播的数值模型。通过在动量方程源项中引入拖曳阻力项考虑植被对波浪的衰减作用。控制方程采用有限差分和有限体积混合格式求解,模型稳定性强,具备间断捕捉能力,能有效模拟近岸区域波浪的传播变形、破碎和处理海岸动边界问题。利用所建立模型对典型物理模型实验进行模拟,计算结果与实验结果吻合良好,表明模型可用于波浪在刚性植被覆盖海域的数值计算。  相似文献   

10.
李松喆 《海洋工程》2021,39(4):144-153
基于历史海图、历史时期卫星遥感影像、2019年实测水下地形和潮流、波浪数值模拟成果,研究该海域岸滩的发育演变背景、海床和岸线自然冲淤动态、动力泥沙环境及岸滩冲淤动力机制。采用LITLINE岸线演变数学模型,模拟计算了不同离岸距离和不同平面形态人工岛布置型式对近岸岸线变形的影响,岸滩泥沙动力机制和岸滩演变趋势表明,人工岛实施后近岸最大潮流流速小于近岸泥沙起动流速,不具备起动近岸岸滩泥沙的基本条件; SSE向波浪作用时,人工岛西北侧波高明显减弱,波向西偏; S向波浪作用时,人工岛北侧波高明显减弱; SSW向波浪作用时,人工岛东北侧波高明显减弱,波浪传播方向东偏;波浪场改变后人工岛掩护区东西两侧岸滩附近泥沙分别具有向东和向西运移至人工岛掩护区的趋势,形成掩护区的淤积和东西两侧岸线冲刷。  相似文献   

11.
The vegetation has important impacts on coastal wave propagation. In the paper, the sensitivities of coastal wave attenuation due to vegetation to incident wave height, wave period and water depth, as well as vegetation configurations are numerically studied by using the fully nonlinear Boussinesq model. The model is based on the implementation of drag resistances due to vegetation in the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation where the drag resistance is provided by the Morison’s formulation for rigid structure induced drag stresses. The model is firstly validated by comparing with the experimental results for wave propagation in vegetation zones. Subsequently, the model is used to simulate waves with different height, period propagating on vegetation zones with different water depth and vegetation configurations. The sensitivities of wave attenuation to incident wave height, wave period, water depth, as well as vegetation configurations are investigated based on the numerical results. The numerical results indicate that wave height attenuation due to vegetation is sensitive to incident wave height, wave period, water depth, as well as vegetation configurations, and attenuation ratio of wave height is increased monotonically with increases of incident wave height and decreases of water depth, while it is complex for wave period. Moreover, more vegetation segments can strengthen the interaction of vegetation and wave in a certain range.  相似文献   

12.
木本植被覆盖岸坡上波浪爬升过程的数值模拟研究   总被引:1,自引:1,他引:0  
近岸木本植物构成的生态缓冲带作为新型的海岸软防护结构,兼具功能性和生态友好性,在沿海工程建设中愈发受到关注,如何深入开展其防护效果的机理研究是目前亟待解决的问题。本文采用数值模拟方法,在N-S方程中分别考虑树枝和树干的拖曳力影响,提出了木本植被作用下波浪沿斜坡爬升的表面波衰减的连续介质等效模型,并采用MAC法来跟踪自由曲面上的水颗粒轨迹。本文以波浪沿1/30的斜坡爬升为算例,对比讨论了有无植被作用下波浪的传播过程,并将算例结果与以往试验结果规律进行对照,验证了数值模型的有效性。最后,分别讨论了植物枝干的高度、密度、树枝倾斜角度等植被特性和波浪因素对植被消浪效果的影响,得到植被消浪的基本规律。文中的计算结果也可为实际的护岸工程和生态景观设计提供参考。  相似文献   

13.
刘达  黄本胜  邱静  谭超 《海洋工程》2016,34(2):16-23
沿海防浪林能形成柔性的植物消浪体系,可以有效降低风暴潮灾害。由于防浪林消浪效果受波浪、近岸水深及植物等多重因素的影响,消浪机理较为复杂,以往的系统研究成果较少。本文以立面二维自由面紊流模型为工具,建立了基于植物冠层特征的多孔介质模型,精细地模拟了破碎波对植物带的冲击,并与物理模型试验结果进行了对比验证,计算分析了植物带宽度、植物密度、滩地水深等因素对消浪效果的影响。  相似文献   

14.
植被斜坡岸滩海啸波消减数值模拟研究   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
An explicit one-dimensional model based on the shallow water equations(SWEs) was established in this work to simulate tsunami wave propagation on a vegetated beach. This model adopted the finite-volume method(FVM)for maintaining the mass balance of these equations. The resistance force caused by vegetation was taken into account as a source term in the momentum equation. The Harten–Lax–van Leer(HLL) approximate Riemann solver was applied to evaluate the interface fluxes for tracing the wet/dry transition boundary. This proposed model was used to simulate solitary wave run-up and long-periodic wave propagation on a sloping beach. The calibration process suitably compared the calculated results with the measured data. The tsunami waves were also simulated to discuss the water depth, tsunami force, as well as the current speed in absence of and in presence of forest domain. The results indicated that forest growth at the beach reduced wave energy loss caused by tsunamis. A series of sensitivity analyses were conducted with respect to variable parameters(such as vegetation densities, wave heights, wave periods, bed resistance, and beach slopes) to identify important influences on mitigating tsunami damage on coastal forest beach.  相似文献   

15.
全球海岸生态系统正遭受气候变化及人类活动带来的威胁, 本文基于沙坝-潟湖系统海岸典型剖面形态, 通过设计实施动床波浪水槽试验, 定量研究了侵蚀浪条件下沉水植被对该系统海岸冲淤的影响。结果表明: 沉水植被明显削弱了沙坝前坡波浪破碎区前缘的波高增大幅度, 并使坝后波高衰减; 植被作用使波浪反射和透射系数减小、耗散系数增大; 侵蚀浪作用下, 沙坝坝顶冲刷较明显, 潟湖内呈淤积趋势, 海岸前丘受波浪冲刷呈陡坎形态。植被影响下沙坝和前丘区域最大侵蚀厚度均减小; 植被可减少沙坝净侵蚀量、潟湖内淤积量及离岸输沙量, 对海岸前丘有较好的保护作用。  相似文献   

16.
Vegetation damping effects on propagating water waves have been investigated by many researchers. This paper investigates the effects of damping due to vegetation on solitary water wave run-up via numerical simulation. The numerical model is based on an implementation of Morison's formulation for vegetation induced inertia and drag stresses in the nonlinear shallow water equations. The numerical model is solved via a finite volume method on a Cartesian cut cell mesh. The accuracy of the numerical scheme and the effects of the vegetation terms in the present model are validated by comparison with experiment results. The model is then applied to simulate a solitary wave propagating on a plane slope with vegetation. The sensitivity of solitary wave run-up to plant height, diameter and stem density is investigated by comparison of the numerical results for different patterns of vegetation. The numerical results show that vegetation can effectively reduce solitary wave propagation velocity and that solitary wave run-up is decreased with increase of plant height in water and also diameter and stem density.  相似文献   

17.
在理论分析的基础上利用根、茎、叶均可量化的植物模型,开展波浪水槽实验。通过改变实验水深、入射波高、植物分布密度等因素,研究不规则波在植物群传播时沿程波高衰减特性,利用快速傅里叶变换对不规则波频谱变化情况进行分析。结果表明,各植物模型消波效果较好,但很少出现植物消波的边界效应,不规则波沿植物群的波高变化情况多数时与Mendez理论曲线不一致,植物群各部分的波能衰减情况并无固定的变化规律。此外,波能衰减集中在谱峰频率处,且入射波高越大,透射波与入射波之间的谱峰值差值越大,但透射波的频谱宽度与入射波相比无明显变化。本研究可为采用近岸植物消波护岸提供一定的理论依据。  相似文献   

18.
The accuracy of predicting wave transformation in the nearshore is very important to wave hydrodynamics, sediment transport and design of coastal structures. An efficient numerical model based on the time-dependent mild-slope equation is presented in this paper for the estimation of wave deformation across the surf zone. This model incorporates an approximate nonlinear shoaling formula and an energy dissipation factor due to wave breaking to improve the accuracy of the calculation of wave height deformation prior to wave breaking and also in the surf zone. The model also computes the location of first wave breaking, wave recovery and second wave breaking, if physical condition permits. Good agreement is found upon comparison with experimental data over several one-dimensional beach profiles, including uniform slope, bar and step profiles.  相似文献   

19.
A study of sea surface wave propagation and its energy deformation was carried out using field observations and numerical experiments over a region spanning the midshelf of the South Atlantic Bight (SAB) to the Altamaha River Estuary, GA. Wave heights on the shelf region correlate with the wind observations and directional observations show that most of the wave energy is incident from the easterly direction. Comparing midshelf and inner shelf wave heights during a time when there was no wind and hence no wave development led to an estimation of wave energy dissipation due to bottom friction with corresponding wave dissipation factor of 0.07 for the gently sloping continental shelf of the SAB. After interacting with the shoaling region of the Altamaha River, the wave energy within the estuary becomes periodic in time showing wave energy during flood to high water phase of the tide and very little wave energy during ebb to low water. This periodic modulation inside the estuary is a direct result of enhanced depth and current-induced wave breaking that occurs at the ebb shoaling region surrounding the Altamaha River mouth at longitude 81.23°W. Modelling results with STWAVE showed that depth-induced wave breaking is more important during the low water phase of the tide than current-induced wave breaking during the ebb phase of the tide. During the flood to high water phase of the tide, wave energy propagates into the estuary. Measurements of the significant wave height within the estuary showed a maximum wave height difference of 0.4 m between the slack high water (SHW) and slack low water (SLW). In this shallow environment these wave–current interactions lead to an apparent bottom roughness that is increased from typical hydraulic roughness values, leading to an enhanced bottom friction coefficient.  相似文献   

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