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1.
近岸植被对波浪爬坡具有一定的衰减作用。在自然界中，由于植被的死亡、再生或人为破坏等原因，近岸植被通常呈片状分布，且其内部分布也是不均匀的。本文以完全非线性Boussinesq方程为基础，引入植被作用项，建立了模拟近岸植被区波浪传播的数值模型，验证了模型可靠性，进而采用该模型模拟分析了片状分布植被对孤立波爬高的影响。数值模拟结果表明，片状分布植被能有效减小孤立波爬高；对于均匀分布的片状植被，高密度片状植被对孤立波爬高的消减效果优于低密度片状植被；对于相同密度、不同分布形式的片状植被，均匀分布的片状植被对孤立波的消减效果优于不均匀分布的片状植被；对于不均匀分布的片状植被，前密后疏的片状植被对孤立波的消减效果优于前疏后密的片状植被。 相似文献
2.
基于非静压单相流模型NHWAVE建立了高精度数值波浪水槽。通过设计不同的计算工况,系统研究了非淹没刚性植物对海啸作用下海堤周围水动力特性的影响。着重分析了不同入射波高、不同植物分布密度以及不同植物分布宽度条件下海啸波沿程波形特征以及海堤堤顶越浪流空间分布特征。结果表明:不同入射波高、植物分布密度以及植物宽度条件下,堤顶流厚度和水体流速具有明显单调的变化趋势,并且随着植物分布密度和宽度增大,波能衰减增大;随着入射波非线性增强,植物分布密度和分布宽度对堤顶前段水流厚度的影响也随之增强,而对堤顶后段水流厚度的影响则减弱,且堤顶后缘水流厚度约为堤顶前缘厚度的二分之一;在波浪非线性较大情况下,植物的存在对堤顶流速度的空间分布趋势几乎没有影响,但相对堤顶流速度增加程度均大于无植物情况,且堤顶后缘水流速度约为堤顶前缘的1.6倍。 相似文献
3.
Solitary wave evolution over a shelf including porous damping is investigated using Volume-Averaged Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equations. Porous media induced damping is determined based on empirical formulations for relevant parameters, and numerical results are compared with experimental information available in the literature. The aim of this work is to investigate the effect of wave damping on soliton disintegration and evolution along the step for both breaking and non-breaking solitary waves. The influence of several parameters such as geometrical configuration (step height and still water level), porous media properties (porosity and nominal diameter) or solitary wave characteristics (wave height) is analyzed. Numerical simulations show the porous bed induced wave damping is able to modify wave evolution along the step. Step height is observed as a relevant parameter to influence wave evolution. Depth ratio upstream and downstream of the edge appears to be the more relevant parameter in the transmission and reflection coefficients than porosity or the ratio of wave height–water depth. Porous step also modifies the fission and the solitary wave disintegration process although the number of solitons is observed to be the same in both porous and impermeable steps. In the absence of breaking, porous bed triggers a faster fission of the incident wave into a second and a third soliton, and the leading and the second soliton reduces their amplitude while propagating. This decrement is observed to increase with porosity. Moreover, the second soliton is released before on an impermeable step. Breaking process is observed to dominate over the wave dissipation at the porous bottom. Fission is first produced on a porous bed revealing a clear influence of the bottom characteristics on the soliton generation. The amplitude of the second and third solitons is very similar in both impermeable and porous steps but they evolved differently due to the effect of bed damping. 相似文献
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The vegetation has important impacts on coastal wave propagation. In the paper, the sensitivities of coastal wave attenuation due to vegetation to incident wave height, wave period and water depth, as well as vegetation configurations are numerically studied by using the fully nonlinear Boussinesq model. The model is based on the implementation of drag resistances due to vegetation in the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation where the drag resistance is provided by the Morison’s formulation for rigid structure induced drag stresses. The model is firstly validated by comparing with the experimental results for wave propagation in vegetation zones. Subsequently, the model is used to simulate waves with different height, period propagating on vegetation zones with different water depth and vegetation configurations. The sensitivities of wave attenuation to incident wave height, wave period, water depth, as well as vegetation configurations are investigated based on the numerical results. The numerical results indicate that wave height attenuation due to vegetation is sensitive to incident wave height, wave period, water depth, as well as vegetation configurations, and attenuation ratio of wave height is increased monotonically with increases of incident wave height and decreases of water depth, while it is complex for wave period. Moreover, more vegetation segments can strengthen the interaction of vegetation and wave in a certain range. 相似文献
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本文采用圆柱体阵列来模拟珊瑚礁面的大糙率,通过波浪水槽实验研究礁面糙率对孤立波传播变形及岸滩爬高的影响。结果表明,粗糙礁面的存在显著削弱了礁坪上孤立波的首峰和礁后岸滩反射造成的次峰,同时降低了波浪在珊瑚礁面的传播速度;垂直于岸线方向沿礁相对波高随着入射波增大而减小,随着礁坪水深的增大而增大,粗糙礁面上波高沿礁的衰减更为显著;礁前斜坡的无量纲反射波高随无量纲入射波高的变化与礁坪水深有关,当入射波高足够大时其趋于常值,粗糙礁面略微增大了礁前斜坡的反射;无量纲透射波高和岸滩爬高随着无量纲入射波高的增大而减小,特别是礁坪水深较大时更为显著,粗糙礁面时的无量纲岸滩爬高相对于光滑礁面平均减小46%;通过回归分析得出了同时适合于光滑和粗糙礁面的预测孤立波岸滩爬高的经验关系式。 相似文献
7.
The boundary integral equation method (BIEM) is developed as a tool for studying two-dimensional, nonlinear water wave problems, including the phenomena of wave generation, propagation and run-up. The wave motions are described by a potential flow theory. Nonlinear free-surface boundary conditions are incorporated in the numerical formulation. Examples are given for either a solitary wave or two successive solitary waves. Special treatment is developed to trace the run-up and run-down along a shoreline. The accuracy of the present scheme is verified by comparing numerical results with experimental data of maximum run-up. 相似文献
8.
波浪爬高是海岸工程中重要的水动力学问题之一,其数值模拟方法通常是通过离散Navier-Stokes方程或Boussinesq方程实现的,其中基于光滑粒子流体动力学方法是近年发展起来的。本文应用该方法模拟相同水深下,不同波高的孤立波在45(°)陡坡上的爬高,模拟结果与理论计算结果及已有物理模型试验结果进行了对比,并模拟出孤立波激散破碎过程及粒子分布和速度场的变化过程。结果表明,对密度近似方程进行重新初始化保持了流场内的质量守恒,同时整个计算域内的压力分布更加规则,说明光滑粒子流体动力学法在波浪爬高计算中的有效性。 相似文献
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This paper presents the results of a parametric study of irregular wave run-up over fringing reefs using the shock-capturing Boussinesq wave model Funwave-TVD to better understand the role of fringing reefs in the mitigation of wave-driven flooding. Laboratory experiments were newly performed with a typical fringing reef profile and typical hydrodynamic conditions to validate the model. Experimental data shows irregular wave run-ups are dominated by the low-frequency motions and confirms the run-up resonant phenomenon over the back-reef slope, which has been revealed in previous numerical studies. It is demonstrated that irregular wave evolution and run-up over fringing reefs are reasonably reproduced by the present model with a proper grid size. However, the infragravity run-up height and highest 2% run-up height over the back-reef slope are under-predicted due to the underestimation of the infragravity wave height over the reef flat. The validated model was then utilized to model irregular wave transformations and run-ups under different conditions. Through a series of numerical experiments, the effects of key hydrodynamic and reef geometry parameters, including the reef flat width, water depth over the reef flat, fore-reef slope angle and back-reef slope angle, on the irregular wave run-up were investigated. Variations of spectral components of irregular wave run-ups were examined to better understand the physical process underlying the effect of each parameter. 相似文献
10.
为研究近岸植物的非均匀分布对海啸波的消减作用,采用非静压单相流模型计算了5种不同密度分布植物与孤立波的相互作用,分析不同密度分布植物对海啸的消波特性。结果表明在植物总株数相同时,具有不同分布密度植物的消波效果相近,透射波波高差小于3%、最大流速差小于5.4%,但是不同植物密度分布情况下植物区前的反射系数有所不同,反射系数最大差为80.2%。此外,所有分布的植物区对波高和流速的透射系数随着波高和植物区长度变化的趋势是一样的,在不同入射波高和植物区长度情况下5种分布均呈现出相似的沿程衰减机制。 相似文献
11.
I. I. Didenkulova A. A. Kurkin E. N. Pelinovsky 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2007,43(3):384-390
The problem of sea-wave run-up on a beach is discussed within the framework of exact solutions of a nonlinear theory of shallow water. Previously, the run-up of solitary waves with different forms (Gaussian and Lorentzian pulses, a soliton, special-form pulses) has already been considered in the literature within the framework of the same theory. Depending on the form of the incident wave, different formulas were obtained for the height of wave run-up on a beach. A new point of this study is the proof of the universality of the formula for the maximum height of run-up of a solitary wave on a beach for the corresponding physical choice of the determining parameters of the incident wave, so that the effect of difference in form is eliminated. As a result, an analytical formula suitable for applications, in particular, in problems related to tsunamis, has been proposed for the height of run-up of a solitary wave on a beach. 相似文献
12.
Wave hydrodynamics over fringing reefs is largely controlled by the reef surface roughness and hydrodynamic forcing. It is believed that climate change will result in a net increase in the water depth over the reef flat, a degrading of the surface roughness of coral reefs and changes in extreme incident wave heights. For an accurate assessment of how climate change affects the safety of reef-fringed coasts, a numerical study of the impact of climate change on irregular wave run-up over reef-fringed coasts was carried out based on a Boussinesq wave model,FUNWAVE-TVD. Validated with experimental data, the present model shows reasonable prediction of irregular wave evolution and run-up height over fringing reefs. Numerical experiments were then implemented based on the anticipated effects of climate change and carried out to investigate the effects of sea level rise, degrading of the reef surface roughness and increase of extreme incident wave height on the irregular wave run-up height over the backreef beach respectively. Variations of run-up components(i.e., spectral characteristics of run-up and mean water level) were examined specifically and discussed to better understand the influencing mechanism of each climate change-related effect on the run-up. 相似文献
13.
Solitary waves have been commonly used as an initial condition in the experimental and numerical modelling of tsunamis for decades. However, the main component of a tsunami waves acts at completely different spatial and temporal scales than solitary waves. Thus, use of solitary waves as approximation of a tsunami wave may not yield realistic model results, especially in the coastal region where the shoaling effect restrains the development of the tsunami wave. Alternatively, N-shaped waves may be used to give a more realistic approximation of the tsunami wave profile. Based on the superposition of the sech2(*) waves, the observed tsunami wave profile could be approximated with the N-shaped wave method, and this paper presents numerical simulation results based on the tsunami-like wave generated based on the observed tsunami wave profile measured in the Tohoku tsunami. This tsunami-like wave was numerically generated with an internal wave source method based on the two-phase incompressible flow model with a Volume of Fluid (VOF) method to capture the free surface, and a finite volume scheme was used to solve all the governing equations. The model is first validated for the case of a solitary wave propagating within a straight channel, by comparing its analytical solutions to model results. Further, model comparisons between the solitary and tsunami-like wave are then made for (a) the simulation of wave run-up on shore and (b) wave transport over breakwater. Comparisons show that use of these largely different waveform shapes as inputs produces significant differences in overall wave evolution, hydrodynamic load characteristics as well as velocity and vortex fields. Further, it was found that the solitary wave uses underestimated the total energy and hence underestimated the run-up distance. 相似文献
14.
孤立波与带窄缝双箱相互作用模拟研究 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
针对孤立波与带窄缝双箱的作用问题,应用时域高阶边界元方法建立了二维数值水槽。其中,自由水面满足完全非线性运动学和动力学边界条件,对瞬时自由表面流体质点采用混合欧拉-拉格朗日法追踪,采用四阶龙格库塔法对下一时刻的自由水面的速度势和波面升高进行更新。采用加速度势法求解物体湿表面的瞬时波浪力。采用推板方法生成孤立波。通过模拟孤立波在直墙上的爬高以及施加在直墙上的波浪力,并与已发表的实验和数值结果对比,验证本数值模型的准确性。通过数值模拟计算研究了窄缝宽度、方箱尺寸对波浪在箱体迎浪侧爬高,窄缝内波面升高,箱体背浪侧透射波高及箱体受波浪荷载的影响。同时研究了有一定时间间隔的双孤立波与带窄缝双箱系统作用问题。 相似文献
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Laboratory and numerical studies of wave damping by emergent and near-emergent wetland vegetation 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
Wetlands protect mainland areas from erosion and damage by damping waves. Yet, this critical role of wetland is not fully understood at present, and a means for reliably determining wave damping by vegetation in engineering practice is not yet available. Laboratory experiments were conducted to measure wave attenuation resulting from synthetic emergent and nearly emergent wetland vegetation under a range of wave conditions and plant stem densities. The laboratory data were analyzed using linear wave theory to quantify bulk drag coefficients and with a nonlinear Boussinesq model to determine numerical friction factors to better represent wetland vegetation in engineering analysis. 相似文献
17.
This paper presents laboratory and numerical simulations of run-up induced by irregular waves breaking on a gentle-sloping planar beach. The experimental data are well reproduced by a numerical model based on the nonlinear shallow water equations. By extending the incoming wave conditions considered in the laboratory experiments, the model is applied to study the run-up variability under highly energetic incoming conditions. The numerical results support the idea that, for cases characterized by the same incident peak frequency, infragravity run-up increases almost linearly with the offshore significant wave height. Moreover, the most energetic conditions lead to an upper limit of the swash similarity parameter of about 1.8. 相似文献
18.
《中国海洋工程》2021,(4)
This study numerically and experimentally investigates the effects of wave loads on a monopile-type offshore wind turbine placed on a 1: 25 slope at different water depths as well as the effect of choosing different turbulence models on the efficiency of the numerical model. The numerical model adopts a two-phase flow by solving Unsteady Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes(URANS) equations using the Volume Of Fluid(VOF) method and three different turbulence models. Typical environmental conditions from the East China Sea are studied. The wave run-up and the wave loads applied on the monopile are investigated and compared with relevant experimental data as well as with mathematical predictions based on relevant theories. The numerical model is well validated against the experimental data at model scale. The use of different turbulence models results in different predictions on the wave height but less differences on the wave period. The baseline turbulence model and Shear-Stress Transport(SST) turbulence model exhibit better performance on the prediction of hydrodynamic load, at a model-scale water depth of 0.42 m, while the laminar model provides better results for large water depths. The SST turbulence model performs better in predicting wave run-up for water depth 0.42 m, while the laminar model and standard model perform better at water depth 0.52 m and 0.62 m, respectively. 相似文献
19.
The run-up and back-wash processes of single and double solitary waves on a slope were studied experimentally. Experiments were conducted in three different wave flumes with four different slopes. For single solitary wave, new experimental data were acquired and, based on the theoretical breaking criterion, a new surf parameter specifically for breaking solitary waves was proposed. An equation to estimate maximum fractional run-up height on a given slope was also proposed. For double solitary waves, new experiments were performed by using two successive solitary waves with equal wave heights; these waves were separated by various durations. The run-up heights of the second wave were found to vary with respect to the separation time. Particle image velocimetry measurements revealed that the intensity of the back-wash flow generated by the first wave strongly affected the run-up height of the second wave. Showing trends similar to that of the second wave run-up heights, both the back-wash breaking process of the first wave and the reflected waves were strongly affected by the wave–wave interaction. Empirical run-up formula for the second solitary wave was also introduced. 相似文献
20.
人工柔性植被场中波浪衰减特性研究 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
通过SWAN-VEG模型对波浪在刚性及柔性植被中传播的模拟计算结果发现,SWAN-VEG模型能较好的模拟刚性植被场对波能衰减的特性,而对于柔性植被场的情况,则缺少合适的对阻力系数的估算方法。因而在传统的植被消浪模型的基础上,通过引入有阻尼的受迫振荡模型,来考虑柔性植被在不同入射波浪作用下的晃动效果,引入柔性植物体在波浪力下的避让因子D(D为植物运动速度与水质点流速的相对值),通过转换关系式来反映植被的柔性对阻力系数CD影响。对未考虑植被晃动的SWAN-VEG模型进行了修改,用于模拟计算波浪在柔性植被场中的衰减,并采用人工柔性材料进行物理模型试验对计算结果进行对比验证。结果表明,考虑植被晃动影响的模拟结果明显好于不计植被晃动影响的情况,验证结果的相关系数从0.68提高至0.83。由此说明在进行柔性植物消浪效果的研究中需考虑柔性植被的晃动效应,同时发现植被晃动效果的强弱与植物材质的固有频率ωn、阻尼比γ、植被高度hv以及入射波要素等因素有关。 相似文献