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1.
Based mainly on TOGA COARE data, that is, the CI''D data from R/V Xiangyanghong No.5 (Pu et al.,1993),the temperature and current data from the Woods Hole mooring and other deep current data, the layered numerical profiles of buoyancy frequency and mean current components are figured out.A numerical method calculating internal wave dispersion relation without background shear current, used by Fliegel and Hunkins (1975),is improved to be fit for the internal wave equation with mean currents and their second derivatives.The dispersion relations and wave functions of the long crested internal wave progressing in any direction can be calculated inveniently by using the improved method.A comparison between the calculated dispersion relation in the paper and the dispersion relation in GM spectral model of ocean internal waves (Garret and Munk, 1972) is performed.It shows that the mean currents are important to the dispersion relation of internal waves in the western equatorial Pacific Ocean and that the currents make the wave progressing co-directional with (against) the currents stretched (shrink).The influence of the mean currents on dispersion relation is much stronger than that of their second derivatives, but that on wave function is less than that of their second derivatives.The influences on wave functions result in the change of vertical wavenumber, that is, making the wave function stretch or shrink.There exists obvious turning depth but no significant critical layer absorption is found. 相似文献
2.
陆架波的性质如频散关系、形成机制等受地形影响。研究地形对陆架波的性质影响具有重要意义。基于陆架拦截波理论,数值计算了分段线性地形下不同宽度陆架上陆架拦截波的频散关系、长波假设下波动的相速度、阻尼情况下的波动耗散率以及强迫波的外力影响因子。分析了陆架宽度及坡度对自由及强迫陆架拦截波性质的影响。陆架宽度影响陆架拦截波的频散关系。陆架变宽,使得长波频散曲线的斜率增大。陆架宽度的增加使第一模态陆架拦截波有明显的性质变化:相速度增大,波动受辐散影响的程度变大,摩擦衰减距离增大,且风应力旋度在波动的生成机制中起到的作用渐强。在宽的陆架上,研究陆架拦截波的生成及强迫波的振幅时,应充分考虑风应力旋度的作用。第二、三模态波动的相速度受陆架坡度的影响较大,但摩擦衰减距离基本都在200km左右,几乎不随陆架宽度改变,属于局地波。 相似文献
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4.
Nonlinear Dispersion Relation in Wave Transformation 总被引：13，自引：1，他引：13
1 .Ｉｎｔｒｏｄｕｃｔｉｏｎ1ＴｈｉｓｗｏｒｋｗａｓｆｉｎａｎｃｉａｌｌｙｓｕｐｐｏｒｔｅｄｂｙｔｈｅＮａｔｕｒａｌＳｃｉｅｎｃｅＦｏｕｎｄａｔｉｏｎｏｆＣｈｉｎａ (ＧｒａｎｔＮｏ .4 0 0 760 2 6ａｎｄ 4 0 0 760 2 8) Ｃｏｒｒｅｓｐｏｎｄｉｎｇａｕｔｈｏｒ.Ｅ ｍａｉｌ:ｒｊｌｉ@ｈｈｕ .ｅｄｕ .ｃｎ Ｉｔｉｓａｖｅｒｙｕｓｅｆｕｌａｎｄｅｆｆｅｃｔｉｖｅｗａｙｔｏａｄｊｕｓｔｔｈｅｗａｖｅｄｉｓｐｅｒｓｉｏｎｒｅｌａｔｉｏｎｆｏｒｔｈｅｓｔｕｄｙｏｆｔｈｅｎｏｎ ｌｉｎｅａｒｉｔｙｏｆｗａｖｅｐｒｏ… 相似文献
5.
This work concerns the wave plus current flow over a sand bed covered by vortex ripples, with the current and the waves coming from different angles. Experiments were performed in a basin, where current and waves were perpendicular, in order to determine the conditions (current strength) leading to a regular ripple pattern formation. Numerical simulations were conducted changing the direction between the waves and the current from 0° to 90° and the ratio between the current strength and the wave orbital velocity from 0.2 to 1.5. Close to the bed, the current aligns parallel to the ripple crests, leading to a veering current profile with the vertical coordinate. The current-related friction coefficient was calculated. It was found that it decreases as the angle approaches 90°, while it increases for decreasing values of the current with a trend that can be described by a power law. 相似文献
6.
The combined wave-current flow has been solved by researchers by assuming wave over either depthwise constant or linear current
profile. Some complicated nonlinear current profiles have also been considered to simulate various shear currents. We consider
a nonlinear current vertically logarithmic in nature and examine its interaction with a periodic surface wave. The Navier-Stokes
equations for incompressible flow are solved for the current part and by using periodic boundary conditions. The effect of
logarithmic current on wave components is assessed. The corresponding celerity and dispersion equation yields a close-form
solution for the shallow-wave approximation. Several comparative trends between wave-only, wave with log current, and wave
with constant current for the wave following/opposing these currents have been discussed. The flow properties of the first
order are presented which can be applicable to the real inland and coastal flows, where progressive waves are ubiquitous over
a depthwise logarithmic current. The work is further extended to the second-order semiempirical wave component by using past
experimental data on the wave spectrum of combined flow.
Published in Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 3, pp. 20–40, May–June, 2008. 相似文献
7.
Kuniaki Okuda 《Journal of Oceanography》1983,38(6):331-338
For wind waves generated in a wind-wave tunnel, the surface pressure and also the pressure distribution along the internal streamlines were calculated from the measured internal velocity field. In distinct waves, with wave height comparable with or larger than the mean, the surface pressure is found to vary drastically in a narrow region around the crest, showing a dominant minimum near the crest. On the other hand, the pressure distribution along the streamline shows systematic variations that are nearly in phase with the streamline profile. It is shown that the occurrence of the pressure in phase with the streamline profile is linked with the internal vorticity distribution, especially with the presence of a high vorticity region below the crest described in Part I of this study. As a result of the occurrence of such pressure variations, the dispersion relation is modified by about 10% from that for linear irrotational waves. It is argued from the present measurements that the dispersion relation and also the energy transfer from wind into wind waves are strongly affected by the internal vortical structure so that the assumption of irrotational gravity waves cannot be applied to the wind waves being studied. 相似文献
8.
The interaction between current-free higher-order water waves with a wave-free uniform current normal to the wave crests is considered. The combined wave-current motion resulting from the interaction is assumed stable and irrotational. The velocity potential, dispersion relation, the particle kinematics and pressure distribution up to the third order in wave amplitude are developed. The conservation of mean mass, momentum and energy, together with the dispersion relation on the free surface are used to derive a set of four nonlinear equations, through which the relationship between wave-free current, current-free wave and the combined wave-current parameters is established. Numerical results for a range of current values are also presented. 相似文献
9.
A. A. Slepyshev 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2016,52(3):301-308
Free internal waves are considered in a Boussinesq approximation in the situation when horizontal eddy viscosity and diffusion in a vertically inhomogeneous flow are taken into account. The dispersion relation and wave damping factor are found in a linear approximation. The Stokes drift velocity is determined in the second order of smallness based on the wave amplitude. It has been indicated that the Stokes drift velocity, transverse with respect to the wave propagation direction, differs from zero if the flow-rate transverse component depends on the vertical coordinate. Vertical momentum fluxes differ from zero and can be comparable with or exceed the corresponding turbulent fluxes if eddy viscosity and diffusion are taken into account. 相似文献
10.
A number of existing models for surface wave phase speeds (linear and non-linear, breaking and non-breaking waves) are reviewed and tested against phase speed data from a large-scale laboratory experiment. The results of these tests are utilized in the context of assessing the potential improvement gained by incorporating wave non-linearity in phase speed based depth inversions. The analysis is focused on the surf zone, where depth inversion accuracies are known to degrade significantly. The collected data includes very high-resolution remote sensing video and surface elevation records from fixed, in-situ wave gages. Wave phase speeds are extracted from the remote sensing data using a feature tracking technique, and local wave amplitudes are determined from the wave gage records and used for comparisons to non-linear phase speed models and for non-linear depth inversions. A series of five different regular wave conditions with a range of non-linearity and dispersion characteristics are analyzed and results show that a composite dispersion relation, which includes both non-linearity and dispersion effects, best matches the observed phase speeds across the domain and hence, improves surf zone depth estimation via depth inversions. Incorporating non-linearity into the phase speed model reduces errors to O(10%), which is a level previously found for depth inversions with small amplitude waves in intermediate water depths using linear dispersion. Considering the controlled conditions and extensive ground truth, this appears to be a practical limit for phase speed-based depth inversions. Finally, a phase speed sensitivity analysis is performed that indicates that typical nearshore sand bars should be resolvable using phase speed depth inversions. However, increasing wave steepness degrades the sensitivity of this inversion method. 相似文献
11.
Recent experimental and theoretical findings raise interesting questions about the applicability of the normal gravity-wave dispersion relation at wave frequencies that exceed the spectral peak frequency. The use of the dispersion relation in analysis of HF radar Doppler sea echo is examined in this paper. Drawing on the results of perturbation theory for wave-wave nonlinear interactions, we show that this relation, so essential to echo interpretation in terms of current and wave information, can be employed with no degradation in accuracy for current measurement when the dominant wave frequency is considerably less (by as much as 10) than the radar Bragg resonance frequency. This finding is supported by comparisons of currents measured by HF radar with "surface truth;" the first-order echo must only be identifiable in order to be used accurately. Wave-height directional spectral information can be extracted from the second-order echo at a given radar frequency up to the point (in wave height) where the perturbation solution employed in the inversion process fails; then a lower radar frequency must be used. On the other hand, most conventional wave measuring instruments should not use the dispersion relation for interpretation of data well beyond the spectral peak, because they do not observe wave height as a function of both space and time independently, as does HF radar. 相似文献
12.
Takeshi Uji 《Journal of Oceanography》1978,34(5):189-203
In the framework of linear wave theory both the effects of tangential and normal stresses on the water waves are discussed without the assumption of irrotational water motion. A formal solution initially at rest with level surface and developed under the actions of the surface stresses depending arbitrarily on time and sinusoidally on space is obtained.A progressive wave type tangential stress whose wave number and frequency are satisfying the dispersion relation of the water waves is shown to be equivalent to the normal stress of the same type on the growth of the waves except the phase relations between the stresses and the water motion. The growth rate of the waves induced by the tangential stress is also shown to be quite insensitive to the actual value of the viscosity.The rotational part of the water motion can dominate only in the early stage of wave generation and becomes negligible with the growth of the waves relative to the irrotational part of the motion even in the case where the motion is induced by the tangential stress alone. Therefore it is not reasonable to neglect effect of the tangential stress on wind waves even if the developed wind waves seem to be irrotational. 相似文献
13.
On the basis of the polynomial approximation of the dispersion relation for gravity waves, a generalized version of Berkhoff's model for a non-stationary case has been obtained. The standard problem of the transition of a wave from deep water into shallow water in a basin with a slowly varying topography is applied to study analytically Berkhoff's model polynomial approximations. It has been demonstrated that all qualitative characteristics of wave transformation can be described in the framework of this model.Translated by V. Puchkin. 相似文献
14.
The wave dispersion equation has played a very important role in the development of ocean surface wave theories. The evaluation of the length of a water wave is an essential example of solving the dispersion relation. Conventional ocean wave theories have been based on an assumption of a rigid impermeable seabed. Thus, the conventional wave dispersion equation can only be used in the case of a wave propagating over a rigid impermeable seabed. For waves propagating over a porous seabed (such as a sandy bed), the conventional dispersion relation is no longer valid because of the absence of the characteristics of the porous seabed. The objective of this study is to establish a new wave dispersion equation for waves propagating over a porous seabed. Based on the new relation, the effects of a porous seabed on wave characteristics (such as the wavelength and wave profile) are discussed in detail. 相似文献
15.
A set of depth-integrated equations describing combined wave–current flows is derived and validated. To account for the effect of turbulence induced by interactions between waves and currents with arbitrary horizontal vorticity, new additional stress terms are introduced. These stresses are functions of a parameter b that relates the relative importance of wave radiation stress and bottom friction stress to the wave–current interaction. To solve the equations, a fourth-order MUSCL-TVD scheme with an approximate Riemann solver is adopted. As a first-order check of the model, the Doppler shift effect and wave dispersion over linearly sheared currents are analytically shown to be retained appropriately in the equation set. The model results are then validated through comparisons with three experimental data sets. First, based on the experiments of Kemp and Simons (1982, 1983), a reasonable functional form of b is estimated. Second, simulations examining the propagation of a weakly dispersive wave over a depth-uniform or linearly sheared current are performed. Finally, the model is applied to a more complex configuration where bichromatic waves interact with spatially varying currents. Simulated results indicate that the model is capable of predicting nearshore interactions of waves with currents of arbitrary vertical structure. One of the unique properties of the developed model is its ability to assimilate an external current field from any source, be it from a circulation model or an observation, and predict the interaction of a nonlinear and dispersive wave field with that current. 相似文献
16.
In this study, we investigate modulational instability in the presence of wind flow in a situation where sea states crossed over water with a finite depth. It is assumed that the wind flows in a specific direction to produce angles with two directions of propagation by two wave systems with the same carrier wave number and same frequency. The evolution equations considered in this study represent a balance among the effects of wind forcing, dispersion, and nonlinearity at the lowest order. These evolution equations are used to study the stability of the uniform wave solution in crossing seas. We show that in the presence of wind flow, the uniform waves grow super-exponentially. We also demonstrate that the region of asymptotic instability in the perturbed wave number plane is larger than that in the absence of wind flow. 相似文献
17.
水动力时空变化对近岸风浪演化的影响——以渤海湾西南岸为例 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
采用SWAN模型和ADCIRC模型建立了风浪、潮汐和水流联合作用的耦合数值模式,并通过渤海湾西南岸实测资料对该模式进行了验证。利用该模式分析了近岸区水位和流场时空变化对风浪模拟结果的影响,计算结果表明水位变化对近岸区风浪模拟结果有显著影响,特别是中等大风过程高潮位时波高受水位影响的变化幅值可达0.5m以上,且水深越浅影响越大。但在岸滩平缓的近岸海域由于流速、流向的时空变化不太剧烈,流场作用和波浪辐射应力作用对波浪场的影响都基本可以忽略。在模拟近岸风浪过程时,应选用耦合模式。 相似文献
18.
A model for the downward transfer of wind momentum is derived for growing waves. It is shown that waves, which grow due to an uneven pressure distribution on the water surface or a wave-coherent surface shear stress have horizontal velocities out of phase with the surface elevation. Further, if the waves grow in the x-direction, while the motion is perhaps time-periodic at any fixed point, the Reynolds stresses associated with the organized motion are positive. This is in agreement with several field and laboratory measurements which were previously unexplained, and the new theory successfully links measured wave growth rates and measured sub-surface Reynolds stresses. Wave coherent air pressure (and/or surface shear stress) is shown to change the speed of wave propagation as well as inducing growth or decay. From air pressure variations that are in phase with the surface elevation, the influence on the waves is simply a phase speed increase. For pressure variations out of phase with surface elevation, both growth (or decay) and phase speed changes occur. The theory is initially developed for long waves, after which the velocity potential and dispersion relation for linear waves in arbitrary depth are given. The model enables a sounder model for the transfer to storm surges or currents of momentum from breaking waves in that it does not rely entirely on ad-hoc turbulent diffusion. Future models of atmosphere-ocean exchanges should also acknowledge that momentum is transferred partly by the organized wave motion, while other species, like heat and gasses, may rely totally on turbulent diffusion. The fact that growing wind waves do in fact not generally obey the dispersion relation for free waves may need to be considered in future wind wave development models. 相似文献
19.
双曲余弦海脊上海啸俘获波的解析与数值研究 总被引：4，自引：3，他引：1
海啸能被大洋海脊引导以俘获波的形式沿其传播上万千米，且因其特殊的运动方式，携带巨大能量影响远场地区的港口，严重威胁海岸安全。本文首先基于线性浅水方程，推导了双曲余弦平方海脊上俘获波的波面解，其为μ阶ν次的连带勒让德函数的第一类解和第二类解的组合。进一步推导出其对应的频散关系，其中对于确定的频率ω，存在无穷多个波数ky与之对应。采用MIKE21-BW模型，模拟了产生于海脊脊顶处的海啸在理想双曲余弦平方海脊上的传播变形过程。结果表明，小部分能量以自由先驱波进行传播，海啸波的波能大部分被海脊俘获。海脊俘获波沿着海脊方向为行进波，随着海啸波传播时间的增加，波浪在沿着海脊方向的延展范围也逐渐增大，波高逐渐减小、波的个数逐渐增加。俘获波能量主要由不同频率以相同速度传播的具有孤立波特性的波浪成分和能量主要集中在特定频率范围内的波浪成分组成。 相似文献
20.
Microwave measurements have been made with a coherent radar in a wind-wave tank to determine the effect of induced current on backscatter. Perturbations were introduced into the wave structure by inducing a current in the water that flowed either with or against the wind. The effect of current on radar cross section was slight; the effect on the Doppler was much more pronounced. It was found that the wave components responsible for radar backscatter are predominantly free waves (that is, waves which travel at the dispersion velocity) rather than waves which are parasitic (or locked) to the dominant waves. 相似文献