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《海洋技术学报》2021,40(2)
本文基于小麦岛海洋环境监测站2014年波浪骑士浮标观测数据以及风速、风向观测数据,对青岛近岸海域波浪要素特征进行了综合分析。整体来看,波浪骑士观测数据质量较高,观测海域以2至3级波高为主,年平均最大波高和平均波周期分别为0.89 m和4.4 s,平均波向主要分布在90°～270°的偏南向范围内,常浪向和强浪向均为东南向(SE)。波高变化与风速较为一致,春、夏季大浪过程较多,以东南向浪为主。通过有效波陡数据分析,得出观测海域以风浪、未成熟涌浪占主。本文利用长期、连续、高精度的波浪方向谱数据,对青岛市近岸海域波浪特征进行分析,对于青岛市近海的海浪预警监测、防灾减灾、海洋工程建设、海上运输等具有重要的参考价值。 相似文献
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本文利用波浪方向的能量分布概念和公式,计算了胶州湾多年一遇的设计波浪要素,并绘制了整个胶州湾主要方向50a一遇波高和周期的分布图.由此可以了解胶州湾波浪的地域特征和方向差异. 相似文献
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准确确定越浪量对于斜坡堤设计有重要意义。利用格子Boltzmann方法(LBM),并采用主动吸收式速度入口造波、出流边界消波、VOF方法追踪自由表面以及静态Smagorinsky模型模拟紊流运动,建立二维数值波浪水槽,对光滑斜坡堤上规则波与不规则波越浪进行数值模拟。模拟结果与试验值及其他数值模型结果比较表明,二维LBM数值波浪水槽具有模拟斜坡堤越浪的能力,但对于破碎较为剧烈的越浪过程模拟,该模型还存在一定的不足,未来可从提高自由表面模型精度等方面进一步改善其性能。 相似文献
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《海洋技术学报》2021,40(2)
本文利用莺歌海站多年的波浪实测资料,对其附近海域的波浪要素的基本特征、变化规律、风与浪的相关规律进行分析研究,阐明了海区海浪的特点及变化规律。该海区属热带季风气候区,波浪主要受季风影响,季风时期的风向、风浪传播方向、涌浪传播方向基本一致。通过对观测资料统计分析发现:该海域波浪主要是以风浪为主,常浪向是SE向,次浪向是SSE向,强浪向是SE向,波高以轻浪为主。波型方面,春季和夏季SE向风浪占绝对优势,秋季和冬季NNW向风浪占优势,涌浪频率四季均是S向最大,并结合国内海洋波浪测量技术现状,在仪器装备研发、算法模型及数据处理分析软件升级、站位布局优化、计量标准化研究等方面提出几点建议。 相似文献
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本文针对长江口深水航道工程建设前后航道内波浪特征的变化进行了分析研究,首先基于对长江口历史波浪资料分析,确定了E、NE和SE3个浪向为航道内典型代表,采用第3代波浪模型SWAN对工程建设前后的波浪进行模拟计算。研究表明,航道工程建设后航道内的有效波高和周期明显减小,但是其变化的规律基本一致。在不同天文潮影响时,航道内的有效波高和周期大不相同。E向和NE向的浪在大潮期间有效波高和周期均高于小潮时,SE向浪却相反。对于NE向的浪,航道工程对有效波高的影响大致呈现出从右向左逐渐减弱。对于E向和SE向的浪,航道工程对有效波高的影响大致呈现出从右向左先增强再减弱。航道工程对不同方向的浪在不同分段上也有所不同,在右段对NE向的消弱最强,对SE向最弱,在中段和左段对E向消弱最强,对NE向最弱。航道内流场与水位对波要素的影响也略有差别。 相似文献
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文章基于长乐海滩前滨剖面的实测波浪数据, 通过统计分析以及谱分析的方法, 探讨了潮汐过程中长乐海滩波浪参数及耗能过程的变化规律。结果表明, 观测期间内波浪以混合浪为主, 各测点谱型较宽, 存在多峰振荡现象。向岸传播过程中, 波能耗散的形式为窄频域向宽频域转变, 能量分布趋于分散, 高频波能减小, 低频波能反而有所上升, 波浪破碎后生成长重力波。破波带内的能量衰减与波浪传播距离具有良好的相关性, 破碎波能在破波带内大约衰减了98.3%。潮汐水位对波浪具有明显的调制作用。入射波能随潮汐水位的增加而有所增加, 且水位越高, 入射波能分布越分散。破波带内的有效波高和潮汐水位具有显著的正相关关系。潮汐过程中固定测点的波谱变化与波浪沿剖面的波谱变化具有明显的相似性。 相似文献
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Arne Schnack-Friedrichsen Angela M. Davis Jim D. Bennell Dei G. Huws 《Marine Georesources & Geotechnology》2001,19(4):221-243
The interdependence between the seismo-acoustic properties of a marine sediment and its geotechnical/physical parameters has been known for many years, and it has been postulated that this should allow the extraction of geotechnical information from seismic data. Though in the literature many correlations have been published for the surficial layer, there is a lack of information for greater sediment depths. In this article, a desktop study on a synthetic seafloor model illustrates how the application of published near-surface prediction equations to subsurface sediments (up to several tens of meters burial depth) can lead to spurious predictions. To test this further, acoustic and geotechnical properties were measured on a number of sediment core samples, some of which were subjected to loading in acoustically-equipped consolidation cells (oedometers) to simulate greater burial depth conditions. For low effective pressures (representing small burial depths extending to around 10 meters subsurface), the general applicability of established relationships was confirmed: the prediction of porosity, bulk density, and mean grain size from acoustic velocity and impedance appears generally possible for the investigated sedimentary environments. As effective pressure increases through, the observed relationships deviate more and more from the established ones for the near-surface area. For the samples tested in this study, in some instances increasing pressure even resulted in decreasing velocities. There are several possible explanations for this abnormal behavior, including the presence of gas, overconsolidation, or bimodal grain size distribution. The results indicate that an appropriate depth correction must be introduced into the published prediction equations in order to obtain reliable estimates of physical sediment properties for greater subsurface depths. 相似文献
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Shigehisa Nakamura 《Marine Geodesy》2000,23(1):55-61
Specific properties of the interannual sea level variations and annual tides in the Northwestern Pacific were studied. Several tide stations were monitored. The monthly mean sea level for the year of 1995 was analyzed at each tide station. A seismic event in 1995, some tectonic activity around the subject area, and the Kuroshio (the oceanic western boundary current) may possibly contaminate results which would have occurred from the astronomical annual tide alone. 相似文献
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The effect of different fixation and storage protocols on the flow cytometric (FCM) simultaneous analysis of bacterioplankton and phytoplankton in coastal seawater samples (Mediterranean coastal lagoons) was investigated. FCM measurements (cell number, fluorescence and scatter characteristics) were obtained through DAPI staining. Three fixatives [glutaraldehyde (GA), formaldehyde (FA) and paraformaldehyde (PFA)] and two storage (3 months duration) methods (5 °C and −196 °C) were tested. Two dominant populations were detected in studied samples: bacteria and eukaryotic picophytoplankton. Adding fixatives (2% final concentration) appears necessary to obtain FCM exhaustive counts of all the bacteria and phytoplanktonic cells. This was related to the permeation effect of fixatives which allowed a better DAPI staining of the cells. Maximum fluorescence, i.e. optimal staining of the cells was obtained with FA or PFA, and significant lower fluorescences with GA. Fixed samples stored at 5 °C induced rapid cell loss. Only storage in liquid nitrogen of samples fixed with FA or PFA, allows mid-term (≥4 months) preservation of bacteria or picophytoplankton cell numbers, and limited evolution of DAPI-induced fluorescence and scatter characteristics. 相似文献
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《海洋学报(英文版)》2014,(9):F0003-F0003
<正>Acta Oceanologica Sinica(AOS)is a comprehensive academic journal edited by the Editorial Committee of Acta Oceanologica Sinica and is designed to provide a forum for important research papers of the marine scientific community which reflect the information on a worldwide basis.The journal publishes scholarly papers on marine science and technology,including physics,chemistry,biology, 相似文献
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The relationship between the flux of exotic benthic foraminiferal tests (i.e. tests which are supplied from open-sea sources alone) in a tidal inlet and that of bulk sediment was analysed, which can be expressed as two first-order linear equations. According to this relationship, in order to determine net sediment transport directions in the entrance, the test concentration in surficial sediments of the tidal basin can be compared against a ‘ critical level ’. The critical level is determined for the conditions that no net transport of bulk sediment is present within the entrance. If the observed concentration (averaged over the tidal basin) is higher than the simulated critical level, then the net sediment transport is directed to landward. This method is applied to the analysis of net sand transport at Christchurch Harbour, a tidal inlet system located in southern England. In this investigation, concentrations of exotic foraminiferal tests in the surficial sediments of the tidal basin and ebb tidal delta area were obtained from the analysis of sea-bed sediment samples. A series of probable critical levels were calculated based upon the data sets with regard to: (1) sediment discharge from the rivers; (2) magnitude of sediment discharge within the entrance during the ebb; (3) the test concentration outside the harbour; (4) the thickness of the moving layer; and (5) two parameters associated with dispersive processes. The results show that the concentration in the tidal basin sediment is higher than a number of simulated critical concentrations for representative cases. Consequently, the high level of the concentration of exotic benthic foraminiferal tests within the harbour should be explained as a result of landward net transport of sands within the entrance. 相似文献
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Coastal inundation associated with extreme sea levels is the main factor which leads to the loss of life and property whenever a severe tropical cyclonic storm hits the Indian coasts. The Andhra and Orissa coasts are most vulnerable for coastal inundation due to extreme rise in sea levels associated with tropical cyclones. Loss of life may be minimized if extreme sea levels and associated coastal flooding is predicted well in advance. Keeping this in view, location specific coastal inundation models are developed and applied for the Andhra and Orissa coasts of India. Several numerical experiments are carried out using the data of past severe cyclones that struck these regions. The simulated inland inundation distances are found to be in general agreement with the reported flooding. 相似文献
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Hoi-Soo Jung Kap-Sik Jeong Yong-Shik Chu Sung-Hyun Park Ki-Hyune Kim 《Marine Georesources & Geotechnology》2001,19(3):181-195
Grain size and water content in box-core sediments from the Clarion-Clipperton fracture zone (C-C zone) in the northeast equatorial Pacific were analyzed in detail to understand the downcore variations across a hiatus between Quaternary and Tertiary layers. Grain-size distributions in the topmost core sediments show two modes: a coarse mode (peaked at 50 μm) and a fine mode (at 2-25 μm). The coarse mode disappears gradually with depth accompanied by the dissolution of siliceous fossil tests, whereas the fine mode coarsens due to the formation of authigenic minerals. Water content increases abruptly across a color boundary between an upper pale brown layer and a lower dark brown layer that is the hiatus between Quaternary and Tertiary layers. Abundant smectites and microvoid molds, which are created by the prolonged fossil dissolution in the underlying sediment, are attributed for the abrupt downcore variation of water content. Overall variations in grain size and water content in the topmost core sediments in the western C-C zone are possibly constrained by the dissolution of biogenic siliceous fossils. Variations in geotechnical properties related to these changes must be considered in the design of nodule collectors. 相似文献
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Shigehisa Nakamura 《Marine Geodesy》2001,24(1):27-33
This article concerns an interrelation between the sea levels and the western boundary flow near a tectonic boundary in a local zone in the Northwestern Pacific. In this zone, sea level variations at stations located on the coast facing the Pacific are studied to find the interrelation between variations of the Kurosio flow as an index of the distance of the flow axis off a specific coast. The result is discussed after data processing of the monthly means of the sea levels, and a notice is taken of variations caused by active crustal upheavals during a seismic event, a local earthquake. 相似文献