共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 15 毫秒
1.
A. A. Slepyshev 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2007,43(5):649-654
In the Boussinesq approximation, topographic waves entrained by a sloping bottom are considered with allowance for turbulent viscosity and diffusion. The mean flows induced by a wave through nonlinearity are determined. The turbulent exchange coefficients are expressed in terms of the density of turbulent energy by using the relations of the semiempirical theory of turbulence. The equation for boundary-layer wave solutions and the equation of turbulent energy balance are solved jointly, which makes it possible to determine the vertical distribution of the density of turbulent energy in the area of the given wave. In the diffusion approximation, the vertical distribution of the concentration of wave-suspended sediments is obtained for the case when the tangential bottom stress exceeds the critical values corresponding to the start of sediment motion. 相似文献
2.
In the present paper, by introducing the effective wave elevation, we transform the extended ellip- tic mild-slope equation with bottom friction, wave breaking and steep or rapidly varying bottom topography to the simplest time-dependent hyperbolic equation. Based on this equation and the empirical nonlinear amplitude dispersion relation proposed by Li et al. (2003), the numerical scheme is established. Error analysis by Taylor expansion method shows that the numerical stability of the present model succeeds the merits in Song et al. (2007)’s model because of the introduced dissipation terms. For the purpose of verifying its performance on wave nonlinearity, rapidly vary- ing topography and wave breaking, the present model is applied to study: (1) wave refraction and diffraction over a submerged elliptic shoal on a slope (Berkhoff et al., 1982); (2) Bragg reflection of monochromatic waves from the sinusoidal ripples (Davies and Heathershaw, 1985); (3) wave transformation near a shore attached breakwater (Watanabe and Maruyama, 1986). Comparisons of the numerical solutions with the experimental or theoretical ones or with those of other models (REF/DIF model and FUNWAVE model) show good results, which indicate that the present model is capable of giving favorably predictions of wave refraction, diffraction, reflection, shoaling, bottom friction, breaking energy dissipation and weak nonlinearity in the near shore zone. 相似文献
3.
Yoshiaki Toba 《Journal of Oceanography》1972,28(3):109-120
A new growth equation for wind waves of simple spectrum is presented upon three basic concepts. The period and the wave height of significant waves in dimensionless forms, which are considered to correspond to the peak frequency and the energy level, respectively, are used as representative quantities of wind waves. One of the three basic concepts is the concept of local balance, and the other two concern the acquisition of wave energy and the dissipation of wave energy, respectively. It is shown from some actual data that the equation, together with two universal constants concerning the acquisition and the dissipation of wave energy (B=6.2×10?2 andK=2.16×10?5, respectively), is applied universally to wide ranges of wind waves from those in a wind-wave tunnel to fully developed sea in the open ocean. “The three-second power law for wind waves of simple spectrum”, and a few relations as the lemmas, are derived, such that the mean surface transport due to the orbital motion of wind waves is always proportional to the friction velocity in wind, and that the steepness is inversely proportional to the root of the wave age. It is also derived that the portion of wind stress which directly enters the wind waves decreases exponentially with increasing wave age and is 7.5 % of the total wind stress for very young waves. Also, equations are presented as to the increase of momentum of drift current, and as to the supply of turbulent energy by wind waves into the upper ocean. 相似文献
4.
Based on the refraction-diffraction theory of irregular waves in the waters of slowly-varying cur-rents and depths,and the generation dissipation theory of wind wave,a model for nonlinear irregular wavesin coastal area is developed.In light of the specific conditions of coastal wave character and engineering ap-plication,a practical mathematical model for the nonlinear irregular waves is presented.with directional spec-trum in coastal area.Coast effect,refraction,whitecapping.bottom friction.current,wind and nonlinearaction are considered in this model.The numerical methods and schemes for wave refraction ray,energy con-servation of propagation,energy balance of the generation and dissipation of wind waves have been studied.Finally,the model is used for the directional wave spectrum computation in the Daya Bay.Compared withthe measured data with 956 wave bouys in the Daya Bay,the model results are in good agreement with themeasured results. 相似文献
5.
JUN Ki Cheon JEONG Weon Mu CHOI Jin Yong PARK Kwang Soon JUNG Kyung Tae KIM Mee Kyung CHAE Jang Won QIAO Fangli 《海洋学报(英文版)》2015,34(12):19-28
Record-breaking high waves occurred during the passage of the typhoon Bolaven (1215) (TYB) in the East China Sea (ECS) and Yellow Sea (YS) although its intensity did not reach the level of a super typhoon. Winds and directional wave measurements were made using a range of in-situ instruments mounted on an ocean tower and buoys. In order to understand how such high waves with long duration occurred, analyses have been made through measurement and numerical simulations. TYB winds were generated using the TC96 typhoon wind model with the best track data calibrated with the measurements. And then the wind fields were blended with the reanalyzed synoptic-scale wind fields for a wave model. Wave fields were simulated using WAM4.5 with adjustment of Cd for gust of winds and bottom friction for the study area. Thus the accuracy of simulations is considerably enhanced, and the computed results are also in better agreement with measured data than before. It is found that the extremely high waves evolved as a result of the superposition of distant large swells and high wind seas generated by strong winds from the front/right quadrant of the typhoon track. As the typhoon moved at a speed a little slower than the dominant wave group velocity in a consistent direction for two days, the wave growth was significantly enhanced by strong wind input in an extended fetch and non-linear interaction. 相似文献
6.
Statistical study on the local equilibrium between wind and wind waves by using data from ocean data buoy stations 总被引：6，自引：0，他引：6
The local equilibrium between the wind and wind waves, which is defined by a range of the coefficient of the 3/2-power law between the non-dimensional significant wave height and period, is statistically investigated by using wind and wave data obtained at four ocean data buoy stations in the seas near Japan. The friction velocity is calculated from the wind speed measured at one height together with the significant wave period by using formulas of the wave dependent drag coefficient proposed by Tobaet al. (1990). The data for small waves or for weak winds indicate that the waves do not satisfy the criterion for the local equilibrium, because they may be affected by changing winds or remotely generated swells. In the seas near Japan, the data which satisfy the local equilibrium are about 6% through a year. Otherwise swells are dominant in most situations. Changing winds also cause deviations from the local equilibrium. The degree of satisfaction of the local equilibrium can be classified by ranges of the significant wave height. As the significant wave height exceeds 4 m, the local equilibrium is more frequently satisfied. 相似文献
7.
Based on the extended mild-slope equation, the wind wave model (WWM; Hsu et al., 2005) is modified to account for wave refraction, diffraction and reflection for wind waves propagating over a rapidly varying seabed in the presence of current. The combined effect of the higher-order bottom effect terms is incorporated into the wave action balance equation through the correction of the wavenumber and propagation velocities using a refraction–diffraction correction parameter. The relative importance of additional terms including higher-order bottom components, the wave–bottom interaction source term and wave–current interaction that influence the refraction–diffraction correction parameter is discussed. The applicability of the proposed model to calculate a wave transformation over an elliptic shoal, a series of parallel submerged breakwater induced Bragg scattering and wave–current interaction is evaluated. Numerical results show that the present model provides better predictions of the wave amplitude as compared with the phase-decoupled model of Holthuijsen et al. (2003). 相似文献
8.
This study deals with the general numerical model to simulate the two-dimensional tidal flow, flooding wave (long wave) and shallow water waves (short wave). The foundational model is based on nonlinear Boussinesq equations. Numerical method for modelling the short waves is investigated in detail. The forces, such as Coriolis forces, wind stress, atmosphere and bottom friction, are considered. A two-dimensional implicit difference scheme of Boussinesq equations is proposed. The low-reflection outflow open boundary is suggested. By means of this model,both velocity fields of circulation current in a channel with step expansion and the wave diffraction behind a semi-infinite breakwater are computed, and the results are satisfactory. 相似文献
9.
The role of bottom friction in the runup of nonbreaking long waves on the shore is analyzed. The case of the normal incidence of monochromatic waves is considered. The relief of the model region consists of an even horizontal bottom area conjugated with a flat slope. The energy dissipation is estimated as the work of bottom friction forces over the wave field obtained using the known analytical solution based on the Carrier-Greenspan transforms. Estimates of energy losses for waves whose periods are typical for tsunami waves have been obtained. The energy dissipation is shown to be not concentrated in the shore line area as a rule. The question about the practicability of using partially reflecting boundary conditions on the coast to take into account the bottom friction in large-scale models of tsunami propagation is considered. 相似文献
10.
对已有根据观测提出的幂函数形式风浪成长关系进行了分析。发现这些风浪成长关系在消去无因次风区后一致地与3／2指数律相协调，尽管它们原来存在较大的不协调性。发现Jeffreys，Sverdrup和Munk以及Platit的风能输入源函数在谱积分意义下具有相似性，而Tsikunov，Hasselmann和Phillips的破波耗散源函数在谱积分意义下也具有相似性，尽管这些源函数的原始形式和物理背景显著地不同。利用有效波能量平衡方程，将3／2指数律和发现的风能输入及破波耗散源函数相似性相结合，提出了深水风浪随风区成长的分式指数律，以得到的分式指数律拟合已有基于观测提出的风浪成长关系提出了半经验的风浪成长关系，与已有观测数据符合。 相似文献
11.
考虑风能输入的抛物型缓坡方程 总被引：1，自引：2，他引：1
在Radder和Kirby发展的波浪折射绕射缓坡方程抛物型模型基础上，对这种模型进行了改进，改进后的模型除可以考虑波浪传播过程中的底摩阻损耗、非线性作用外，加入了风能输入对波浪传播的影响。基于风能输入项的波浪模型数值计算结果表明，在纯风浪情况下的计算结果与传统的风浪计算方法结果一致，在波浪传播过程中由于风的作用，将导致波高比无风作用下计算的波高大。 相似文献
12.
以不规则波在缓变地形和缓变流场水域的折射-绕射理论以及风浪的成长、衰减理论为基础,得到近岸区不规则波成长模型。结合近岸波浪特性和海洋工程应用的实际情况,建立综合考虑海岸、折射、白浪、底摩擦、流、风和非线性作用诸因素的近岸不规则波数值计算模型。该模型具有二维波谱特性及实用性。文章力图使模式更合理地反映近岸波浪的传播、成长和衰减规律,而整个计算工作量则较小,可在微型电子计算机上得以实现。 相似文献
13.
A coupled wave–tide–surge model has been established in this study in order to investigate the effect of tides, storm surges, and wind waves interactions during a winter monsoon on November 1983 in the Yellow Sea. The coupled model is based on the synchronous dynamic coupling of a third-generation wave model, WAM-Cycle 4, and the two-dimensional tide–surge model. The surface stress generated by interactions between wind and waves is calculated using the WAM-Cycle 4 directly based on an analytical approximation of the results obtained from the quasi-linear theory of wave generation. The changes of bottom friction factor generated by waves and current interactions are calculated by using simplified bottom boundary layer model. The model simulations showed that bottom velocity and effective bottom drag coefficient induced by combination of wave and current were increased in shallow waters of up to 50 m in the Yellow Sea during the wintertime strong storm conditions. 相似文献
14.
This study investigates the effectiveness of a revised whitecapping source term in the spectral wind wave model SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) that is local in frequency space, nonlinear with respect to the variance density and weakly dependent on the wave age. It is investigated whether this alternative whitecapping expression is able to correct the tendency towards underprediction of period measures that has been identified in the default SWAN model. This whitecapping expression is combined with an alternative wind input source term that is more accurate for young waves than the default expression. The shallow water source terms of bottom friction, depth-induced breaking and triad interaction are left unaltered. It is demonstrated that this alternative source term combination yields improved agreement with fetch- and depth-limited growth curves. Moreover, it is shown, by means of a field case over a shelf sea, that the investigated model corrects the erroneous overprediction of wind-sea energy displayed by the default model under combined swell-sea conditions. For a selection of field cases recorded at two shallow lakes, the investigated model generally improves the agreement with observed spectra and integral parameters. The improvement is most notable in the prediction of period measures. 相似文献
15.
多方向不规则波传播变形数值模拟 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：1
在推广的缓坡方程数学模型基础上建立了多方向不规则波数学模型，综合考虑了波浪折射、绕射、反射、底摩擦和风能输入等因素。基于线性波浪理论，将波浪方向谱在频率和方向上按等能量分割法离散后，分别计算各组成波的传播变形，再计算合成波要素。缓坡方程数学模型采用改进的ADI法求解，计算效率高，稳定性好。采用椭圆形浅滩不规则波模型试验结果和单突堤不规则波绕射理论解对数学模型进行了验证，数值模拟结果和试验值及理论解符合良好。利用该模型进行了某港港内波浪折射、绕射和反射的联合数值模拟，给出了合理的港内波高分布。 相似文献
16.
两参量的海面阻力系数模式的探讨 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
从风浪的能量平衡方程出发，引进若干风要素与波要素以及波要素之间的定性关系，经演算可导出海面阻力系数（Ｃｐ）或是风速（Ｕ）和波龄（β）或是Ｕ和波高（Ｈ）的函数，然后沿用最小二乘法，终将得出４组１２个回归方程。当β（或β）或Ｈ为某一给定值，惟有Ｕ为唯一参量时，所提各式均可简化为非线性方程：ＣＤ＝ａ＋ｂ，Ｕ＋ｃ．Ｕ＾２；式中ａ，ｂ和ｃ为三个经验系数，就所检验的例子而言，本文的结果与实际的符合前人的为好。 相似文献
17.
Parabolic Approximation of the Weakly Nonlinear Mild Slope Equation with Bottom Friction 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
This paper presents a refined parabolic approximation model of the mild slope equation to simu-late the combination of water wave refraction and diffraction in the large coastal region.The bottom frictionand weakly nonlinear term are included in the model.The difference equation is established with the Crank-Nicolson scheme.The numerical test shows that some numerical prediction results will be inaccurate in com-plicated topography without considering weak nonlinearity;the bottom friction will make wave height damp-ing and it can not be neglected for calculation of wave field in large areas. 相似文献
18.
《Journal of Sea Research》2002,47(3-4):209-222
Velocity and temperature measurements obtained with acoustic Doppler current profilers and thermistor strings are used to evaluate the production of internal wave band kinetic energy mainly in the frequency band σ>15 cpd. Results from a flat 19 m deep, vigorous tidal environment in a shelf sea are compared with energy production in a bottom boundary layer above a continental slope. In the tidal environment, maximum production occurs in the near-bottom and near-surface layers. A distinct mid-depth maximum in KE production occurs during a period when wind speeds exceed 10 m s−1 and significant wave height ∼2 m. At the same time, no significant changes in the along-shore current speed take place but the cross-shore current, generated by strong stratification, is weakened. This suggests a direct energy input from the wind via surface waves into the water column turbulence. Maximum kinetic energy production in the frequency band σ>1.9 cpd, thus including the semidiurnal tide, occurs at mid-depth when strong stratification is present. The overall magnitude of internal wave band kinetic energy production agrees well with independent dissipation estimates obtained from microstructure profilers. Above the sloping bottom, KE production is somewhat larger than observed in the shallow tidal environment, despite rms currents being ∼50% smaller and wind effects being small. Above the sloping bottom KE shear production was comparable to buoyancy production. The latter was negligible at the shelf sea site. 相似文献
19.
长江口水域波浪数值计算 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
利用高阶非线性抛物型缓坡方程对长江口水域的波浪传播变形作了推算，依据测站的资料分析数值模式中的底摩阻因子和风能输入因子对波浪传播的影响，进而确定其参数。针对不同导堤结构型式，分析了潜堤的波浪传递系数，最后对长江口二期整治工程完成后水域的波浪场作了推算。 相似文献