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1.
In the present study, the effect of shear current on the propagation of flexural gravity waves is analyzed under the assumptions of linearized shallow-water theory. Explicit expressions for the reflection and transmission coefficients associated with flexural gravity wave scattering by a step discontinuity in both water depth and current speed are derived. Further, trapping and scattering of flexural gravity waves by a jet-like shear current with a top-hat profile are examined and certain limiting conditions for the waves to exist are derived. The effects of change in water depth, current speed, incident wavelength and the angle of incidence on the group and phase velocities as well as on the reflection and transmission characteristics are analyzed through different numerical results.  相似文献   

2.
It is well known that wave induced bottom oscillations become more and more negligible when the water depth exceeds half the wavelength of the surface gravity wave. However, it was experimentally demonstrated for regular waves that the bottom pressure oscillations at both first and second wave harmonic frequencies could be significant even for incoming waves propagating in deep water condition in the presence of a submerged plate [16]. For a water depth h of about the wavelength of the wave, measurements under the plate (depth immersion of top of plate h/6, length h/2) have shown bottom pressure variations at the wave frequency, up to thirty times larger than the pressure expected in the absence of the plate. In this paper, not only regular but also irregular wave are studied together with wave following current conditions. This behavior is numerically verified by use of a classical linear theory of waves. The wave bottom effect is explained through the role of evanescent modes and horizontally oscillating water column under the plate which still exist whatever the water depth. Such a model, which allows the calculation of the velocity fields, has shown that not only the bottom pressure but also the near bed fluid velocity are enhanced. Two maxima are observed on both sides of the location of the plate, at a distance of the plate increasing with the water depth. The possible impact of such near bed dynamics is then discussed for field conditions thanks to a scaling based on a Froude similarity. It is demonstrated that these structures may have a significant impact at the sea bed even in very deep water conditions, possibly enhanced in the presence of current.  相似文献   

3.
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4.
A perturbation model is presented for a velocity field of a bottom current flowing over a sinusoidal topography or an obstacle. The model extends existing theory by taking into account the three-dimensional Coriolis vector and an initial horizontal velocity vector at any orientation. One possible mechanism of the development of sedimentary waves in the vicinity of an obstacle by an arbitrarily oriented initial horizontal current is analyzed in detail. Space-stationary fluid particle oscillations are initiated on the downstream side of an obstacle, which can result in sedimentary waves. The model shows that their wavelength depends on latitude, water depth, obstacle width and orientation as well as the initial current direction and intensity. The model defines intervals for current velocities normal to the wave crest, for which the sedimentary waves grow (or are destroyed) or migrate in a certain direction. Information derived from bathymetric and seismic surveys, such as wavelength, height, orientation and migration direction of mudwaves, can be used to calculate the velocity component across the wave crest and to estimate the current direction, as is demonstrated for an example from the Argentine Basin (Project MUDWAVES, Site 5).  相似文献   

5.
Small amplitude water waves propagating in a medium with a steady non-uniform current are investigated. The non-uniform current is obtained by up- or downwelling through the horizontal bed. A new locally valid velocity potential correct to the second order is derived describing the combined wave–current motion. From this solution expressions for the local evolution of the wave amplitude and the wave number are extracted. These expressions are compared with the results found using the principle of wave action conservation and the linear dispersion relation, and good agreement is found at small distances compared to the wavelength. Unlike earlier works there is no restriction to deep water. The results valid for deep water are found as a special case of the general solution and agree with the solution found by Longuet-Higgins, M.S. and Stewart, R.W. (1961) The changes in amplitude of short gravity waves on steady non-uniform currents. Journal of Fluid Mechanics, 10(4), 529–549. Furthermore, it is shown that the principle of wave action conservation in fact holds for waves propagating in a medium with a steady non-uniform current maintained by up-/downwelling also on finite depth.  相似文献   

6.
We study horizontal wave currents generated in a liquid of finite depth by a load of constant intensity moving over the floating ice cover and analyze the dependences of the space structure of the field of wave velocities on the characteristics of the ice cover and the velocity of motion of the load. It is shown that the velocity of wave currents caused by flexural waves can increase with the velocity of motion of the load, whereas the wave currents caused by the gravity waves decay monotonically. The ice compression increases the velocity of horizontal wave currents.  相似文献   

7.
In September 2011, Typhoon Nesat passed over a moored array of instruments recording current and temperature in the northern South China Sea（SCS）. A wake of baroclinic near-inertial waves（NIWs） commenced after Nesat passed the array. The associated near-inertial currents are surface-intensified and clockwise-polarized. The vertical range of NIWs reached 300 m, where the vertical range is defined as the maximum depth of the horizontal near-inertial velocity 5 cm/s. The current oscillations have a frequency of 0.709 9 cycles per day（cpd）, which is 0.025 f higher than the local inertial frequency. The NIWs have an e-folding time-scale of 10 d based on the evolution of the near-inertial kinetic energy. The depth-leading phase of near-inertial currents indicates downward group velocity and energy flux. The estimated vertical phase velocity and group velocity are 0.27 and 0.08 cm/s respectively, corresponding to a vertical wavelength of 329 m. A spectral analysis reveals that NIWs act as a crucial process to redistribute the energy injected by Typhoon Nesat. A normal mode and an empirical orthogonal function analysis indicate that the second mode has a dominant variance contribution of 81%, and the corresponding horizontal phase velocity and wavelength are 3.50 m/s and 420 km respectively. The remarkable large horizontal phase velocity is relevant to the rotation of the earth, and a quantitative analysis suggests that the phase velocity of the NIWs with a blue-shift of 0.025 f overwhelms that of internal gravity waves by a factor of 4.6.  相似文献   

8.
Ｔｈｅｗａｖｅｔｒａｎｓｆｏｒｍａｔｉｏｎａｎｄｂｒｅａｋｉｎｇｐｈｅｎｏｍｅｎａｉｎｓｈａｌｌｏｗｗａｔｅｒ￥ＬｉＹｕｃｈｅｎｇ（１．ＤａｌｉａｎＵｎｉｖｅｒｓｉｔｙｏｆＴｅｃｈｎｏｌｏｇｙ，Ｄａｌｉａｎ１１６０２３，Ｃｈｉｎａ）Ａｂｓｔｒａｃｔ：...  相似文献   

9.
In this study we present in-situ measurements of pore water flow velocities in a coastal sandy sediment (permeability=3.65×10−10 m2). The advective pore water flows were driven by the interaction of oscillating boundary flows with sediment wave ripples, (amplitude=7 cm, wavelength=30 to 50 cm). The measurements were carried out in the Mediterranean Sea at 50 to 70 cm water depth during a phase of very low wave energy (max. wave amplitude=10 cm). An optode technique is introduced that permits direct pore water flow measurements using a fluorescent tracer. Near the sediment surface (0.5 cm depth) pore water reached velocities exceeding 40 cm h−1. Thus, advective transport exceeded transport by molecular diffusion by at least 3 orders of magnitude. Based on the pore water velocity measurements and ripple spacing, we calculate that 140 L m−2 d−1 are filtered through the sediment. Pore water visualisation experiments revealed a flow field with intrusion of water in the ripple troughs and pore water release at the ripple crests. The wave-driven water flow through the sediment, thus, was directly linked to the wave-generated sediment topography, and its spatial dimensions. These results show that surface waves cause water filtration through permeable sediments at water depths smaller than half the wavelength. We conclude that surface gravity waves constitute an important hydromechanical process that may convert large areas of the continental shelves into expansive filter systems. Surface gravity waves thereby could affect suspended particle concentration and cycling of matter in the shelf.  相似文献   

10.
In the present paper, a hydroelastic model is developed to deal with surface gravity wave interaction with an elastic bed based on the small amplitude water wave theory and plate deflection in finite water depth. The elastic bottom bed is modelled as a thin elastic plate and is based on the Euler-Bernoulli beam equation. The wave characteristics in the presence of the elastic bed is analyzed in both the cases of deep and shallow water waves. Further, the linearized long wave equation is generalized to include bottom flexibility. A generalized expansion formula for the velocity potential is derived to deal with the boundary value problems associated with surface gravity waves having an elastic bed. The utility of the expansion formula is illustrated by demonstrating specific physical problems which will play significant role in the analysis of wave structure interaction problems. Behavior of the wave spectra are discussed in the case of closed basin having a free surface and an elastic bottom topography.  相似文献   

11.
基于量纲分析理论进行水槽试验,研究了潮流以及单向流作用下海底沙波的形成和发展过程。通过分析 海床地形数据,对海底沙波的特征尺度和发展过程进行定量描述,得出了潮流流速、周期、水深以及叠加单向流等因素对沙波特征尺度的影响。结果表明,潮流作用产生的海底地貌由大尺度的沙波和小尺度的沙纹共同组成,大尺度沙波在地貌形态塑造中占主导地位。从平坦海床开始,沙波波高和波长随水流作用逐渐增大,增长速度越来越慢,最终达到动态平衡。沙波特征波高和特征波长随流速和水深增大而增大,同时随往复流周期的增大而增大,并不断趋近于单向水流的情况。进一步对小尺度的沙纹地貌进行分析,得出了沙纹特征尺度随水流条件的变化规律。  相似文献   

12.
The hydroelastic response of a semi-infinite thin elastic plate floating on a two-layer fluid of finite depth due to obliquely incident waves is investigated. The upper and lower fluids with different densities separated by a sharp and stable interface are assumed to be inviscid and incompressible and the motion to be irrotational. Simply time-harmonic incident waves of the surface and interfacial wave modes with a given angular frequency are considered within the framework of linear potential flow theory. With the aid of the methods of matched eigenfunction expansion and the inner product of the two-layer fluid, a closed system of simultaneous linear equations is derived for the reflection and transmission coefficients of the series solutions. Based on the dispersion relations for the gravity waves and the flexural–gravity waves in a two-layer fluid and Snell’s law for refraction, we obtain a critical angle for the incident waves of the surface wave mode and three critical angles for the incident waves of the interfacial wave mode, which are related to the existence of the propagating waves. Graphical representations of the series solutions show the interaction between the water waves and the plate. The effects of several physical parameters, including the density and depth ratios of the fluid and the thickness of the plate, on the wave scattering and the hydroelastic response of the plate are studied. It is found that the variation of the thickness of the plate may change the wave numbers and the critical angles. The density ratio is the main factor to influence the wave numbers of the interfacial wave modes. Finally, the stress state is considered.  相似文献   

13.
Semigeostrophic gravity waves associated with a coastal boundary current, which has finite and uniform potential vorticity and is bounded away from the coastline by a density front on the ocean surface, are investigated. It is shown that the semigeostrophic coastal current has two waves which are named here the Semigeostrophic Coastal Wave (SCW) and the Semigeostrophic Frontal Wave (SFW). The SCW becomes an elementary Kelvin wave at some limit while the SFW is caused by the existence of the surface density front. The SCW appears mainly as variations in the upper layer depth at the coast and as alongshore velocity at the density front. On the other hand, the SFW appears mainly as variations in the width of the current. When the weak nonlinearity and ageostrophic effect are included, these semigeostrophic gravity waves satisfy the Kortweg- de Vries equation, which suggests that the local changes in the width and/or velocity of the semigeostrophic coastal current propagate as wave-like disturbances.  相似文献   

14.
The problem of a uniform current passing through a circular cylinder submerged below an ice sheet is considered. The fluid flow is described by the linearized velocity potential theory, while the ice sheet is modelled through a thin elastic plate floating on the water surface. The Green function due to a source is first derived, which satisfies all the boundary conditions apart from that on the body surface. Through differentiating the Green function with respect to the source position, the multipoles are obtained. This allows the disturbed velocity potential to be constructed in the form of an infinite series with unknown coefficients which are obtained from the boundary condition. The result shows that there is a critical Froude number which depends on the physical properties of the ice sheet. Below this number there will be no flexural waves propagating to infinity and above this number there will be two waves, one on each side of the body. When the depth based Froude number is larger than 1, there will always be a wave at far upstream of the body. This is similar to those noticed in the related problem and is different from that in the free surface problem without ice sheet. Various results are provided, including the properties of the dispersion equation, resistance and lift, ice sheet deflection, and their physical features are discussed.  相似文献   

15.
D. Karmakar  T. Sahoo   《Ocean Engineering》2008,35(7):598-615
Using the recently developed expansion formulae for wave structure interaction problems, the scattering of surface water waves by a semi-infinite floating membrane due to abrupt change in bottom topography is analyzed. Both the cases of finite and infinite steps are analyzed. In the present paper, the analysis is based on the linearized theory of water waves and small amplitude membrane response. Combining the linearized kinematic and dynamic surface conditions on the water surface with the dynamic pressure condition on the membrane, a third order differential equation is derived to describe the membrane covered free surface condition. General wave energy relation for wave scattering by floating horizontal membrane is derived by the application of law of conservation of energy flux and alternately by the direct application of Green's second identity. In the floating membrane covered region, the wave energy density is a combination of the kinetic and potential energy density due to the surface gravity waves, and the surface energy density which is due to the existence of the floating membrane on the free surface. Gravity wave transformations due to an abrupt change in bottom topography in the presence of a floating membrane in finite water depth are analyzed based on shallow water approximation. Numerical results are computed and analyzed to understand the wave transformation due to the floating membrane when there is an abrupt change in topography in different cases.  相似文献   

16.
- Starting from satellite remote sensing data, the dynamical processes of shear waves occurring at the boundary between the western boundary current and the shelf slope water are studied and dynamically analyzed in this study. The average wavelength is 75 km, and the average amplitude (from crest to trough )17 km. the average phase speed 100 cms-1 for the shear waves along the north wall of the Gulf Stream to the east of Cape Hatteras measured from NOAA satellite IR (infrared ) images. The average wavelength of shear waves along the north wall of the Kuroshio Current is 57 km, and the average amplitude 17 km. For the shear waves occurring along the west wall of the Gulf Stream to the south of Cape Hatteras, the average wavelength is 131 km, and the average amplitude 33 km measured from Seasat SAR (synthetic aperture radar )images. The time for one cycle of shear wave event is about one week.In order to explore the dynamical mechanisms of shear waves, we solved the vorticity equation for a stratified flu  相似文献   

17.
Simultaneously obtainedX- andL-band synthetic aperture radar (SAR) data collected during the Marineland Experiment were spectrally analyzed by fast Fourier transform (FFT) techniques to estimate ocean wavelength and direction. An eight-sided flight pattern was flown over the same ocean area in order to study the sensitivity of the spectral estimate on radar look direction. These spectral estimates were compared with in situ wave measurements made by a pitch-and-roll buoy. The comparison revealed that theX-band SAR detected all gravity waves independent of radar look direction, while theL-band SAR detected all range-traveling gravity waves but failed to detect waves in three of four cases in which the waves were traveling within 25° of the azimuth direction. The analysis also indicates that azimuth-traveling waves appear longer and more range-traveling in the SAR imagery than observed by in situ instrumentation. It is postulated that degraded azimuth resolution due to scatterer motion is responsible for these observations.  相似文献   

18.
THE NONLINEAR INTERNAL GRAVITY WAVES IN STRATIFIED FLUID   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
In this paper, starting from the equations of the nonlinear internal gravity waves in stratified fluid, using the method of the Taylor expansion nearby the equilibrium point for the nonlinear terms, we find the analytical solutions for nonlinear internal gravity waves. The linear internal gravity waves and solitary waves are its special cases. The nonlinear internal gravity waves satisfy the well-known KdV (Karteweg-de Vries) equation. The nonlinear internal gravity waves are different from linear waves in character. The former dispersive relation contains the amplitude, but the latter does not. The larger the amplitude and the wavelength the faster are waves for the nonlinear internal gravity waves. The smaller the stability of the stratification, the larger is the wavelength (or the width). Some phenomena such as squall line, cumulus, turbulent mass structure in atmosphere, and thermocline in ocean have these natures.  相似文献   

19.
Current velocity profiles in the presence of non-breaking waves on a horizontal bottom are studied. Particular consideration is given to the derivations of measured current profiles from the standard logarithmic profiles near the mean water surface. The deviations are found to be due mainly to the wave-induced second-order stress which was generally neglected in the former models. The available experimental data indicate that the wave-induced second-order stress is a linear function of elevation and depends on the wave parameters, the current strength and the angle between the waves and the current. A semi-empirical model is developed and gives good agreements with experimental measurements of current profiles near the mean water surface.  相似文献   

20.
By the method of multiple scales, we obtain (to within the third order of smallness) the asymptotic expansions for the components of the velocity of motion of liquid under a floating ice cover in the process of propagation of periodic surface flexural gravity waves of finite amplitude under the conditions of ice compression. We study the dependences of the distributions of the velocity components along the wave profile on the compressive forces and the parameters of the initial harmonic. It is shown that the amplitude values of the velocity components decrease and the phase shift of oscillations increases as the compressiveforces increase.  相似文献   

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