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1.
Based on phase focusing theory, focusing waves with different spectral types and breaking severities were generated in a wave flume. The time series of surface elevation fluctuation along the flume were obtained by utilizing 22 wave probes mounted along the mid-stream of the flume. Based on the wave spectrum obtained using fast Fourier transform(FFT), the instability characteristics of the energy spectrum were reported in this paper. By analyzing the variation of total spectral energy, the total spectral energy after wave breaking was found to clearly decrease, and the loss value and ratio gradually increased and tended to stabilize with the enhancement of breaking severity for different spectral types. When wave breaking occurred, the energy loss was primarily in a high-frequency range of f/fp1.0, and energy gain was primarily in a low-frequency range of f/fp1.0. As the breaking severity increased, the energy gain-loss ratio decreased gradually, which demonstrates that the energy was mostly dissipated. For plunging waves, the energy gain-loss ratio reached 24% for the constant wave steepness(CWS) spectrum, and was slightly larger at approximately 30% for the constant wave amplitude(CWA) spectrum, and was the largest at approximately 42% for the Pierson-Moskowitz(PM) spectrum. 相似文献
2.
基于浅水斜坡地形的物理模型试验数据,考察SWAN模型对实验室小尺度浅水波浪的模拟效果,进而检验其浅水项的模拟精度。模拟中采用直接输入初始测点的实测海浪谱进行造波,重点考察浅水中三波相互作用和变浅破碎两个源项,对不同工况下,SWAN模式在水深条件变化下的有效波高、谱平均周期、海浪谱演化的模拟能力进行研究。研究表明:模拟的有效波高较符合实测波浪的增长和衰减,但谱平均周期计算值明显偏小;海浪谱的能量转移机制同实测有较大区别,频谱模拟结果出现高频高估、低频低估现象。对两个源项进行对比分析得出三波相互作用对海浪谱的能量转换影响远大于变浅破碎耗散。想要提高近岸区谱平均周期和海浪谱的模拟精度则SWAN模型中三波非线性项的计算精确度仍需更多研究和改进。 相似文献
3.
V. A. Kalmykov 《Physical Oceanography》1996,7(3):159-166
The wave-wave kinetic equation for surface gravity waves in a deep sea is solved numerically, using the Runge-Kutta technique.
Spectral evolution of waves resulted only from their being non-linear, with no wave generation and decaying taking place.
To perform computations the JONSWAP-type frequency spectra and a variety of angular wave spectra were used. The angular spectrum
of waves turned out to be stable. The frequency spectrum differed from the JONSWAP spectrum in that it had a high-frequency
part, which was not similar to the Phillips spectrum. The form of the high-frequency spectral slope was determined as a result
of spectral evolution and proved to have the form of the ‘−6’ law.
Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin. 相似文献
4.
In traditional spectral analysis the use of windows is required because the assumption is made that the data outside the sample are zero. A data window is simply equal to unity inside, and zero outside the sample. This is equivalent to the truncation of the autocovariance function beyond some lag after which zeros are added. In Fast Fourier Transform spectral estimation a spectral window with smaller or greater negative side lobes is used. Any use of windows results in a smearing or spectral leakage that limits the spectral resolution. Maximum entropy spectral estimation (MEM) is equivalent to an extrapolation of the autocovariance function being consistent with some model assumptions. The result of the extrapolation is an increased spectral resolution in the frequency domain. In applications of MEM no kind of windows are used. MEM is applied to describe wind wave scalar spectra. The technique can also be used in the plane to estimate directional spectra. Our results show that MEM is a powerful tool for estimation of scalar spectra and simulation of the sea surface. There are also theoretical reasons for assuming that MEM are superior to traditional methods when only short samples are available. Our preliminary results verify this assumption. We propose a data acquisition system based on MEM, and also show that the response of linear systems can be calculated and simulated by MEM. 相似文献
5.
S. Aranuvachapun 《Ocean Engineering》1987,14(2)
Monte Carlo simulation of wave spectra was carried out to provide an assessment of JONSWAP spectral model and parameters. The simulation method is found to be satisfactory because (a) it excludes the spectral variability due to geophysical factors from the sampling errors in the spectral estimates and the statistical uncertainty in determining the model parameters; and (b) the simulated spectra can represent ideal spectral estimates where the sampling errors have been minimized by increasing the degrees of freedom of the spectra. The latter (b) allows both the magnitude of sampling errors to be evaluated and errors due to statistical uncertainty to be isolated. Thus, the stimulation study provides a useful error analysis to assess the JONSWAP spectral model and parameters. For instance, it is found from the results that the sampling errors could be as high as 20% while errors due to uncertainty in determining the model parameter could be as high as 17%. However, the overall errors may be reduced to the minimum of approx. 15% if the simulated spectra have 80 degrees of freedom and constant values of σa and σb i.e. σa = 0.07 and σb = 0.09. This implies that the maximum accuracy of 85% may be achieved in JONSWAP spectral model even though the α parameter has been underestimated by about 1.5%. The overestimated values of γ might come from the underestimated α and the biased φm estimator caused by the statistical uncertainty in the presence of a sharp spectral peak. Although the scale parameters (α and φm) exhibit smaller errors and variability than the shape parameters (ψ, σa and σb), they are more sensitive to the degrees of freedom of the spectra and their estimators are not better than the estimators of shape parameters. The simulation experiments have also shown that simulated spectra at 20–40 degrees of freedom contain a substantial amount of sampling errors. Therefore, the measured wave spectra at the same degrees of freedom (20–40) are not suitable and should not be used for evaluating the accuracy of any wave spectral model. 相似文献
6.
- The spectral form of wind waves is investigated based on the ocean wave data observed at three nearshore stations of Taiwan. In this study, the generalized forms of Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum and JONSWAP spectrum are used to describe the local wave spectrum by selecting suitable spectral form parameters. It is shown that, at a specific site, the similarity of wave spectral form exists. Thus it is possible to use a representative spectral form for a given nearshore region to describe the wave spectrum at this nearshore. On the other hand, the effects of relative water depth on spectral form are examined. The feasibility of two spectral models in finite water depth is evaluated by using the same field wave data. 相似文献
7.
基于拟层流风波生成机制的海浪谱模型 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
海浪谱的能量可以视为由具有不同相速度的谐波携带的能量所组成。基于对风波形成、发展过程的认识,认为各组成谐波的能量由谐波自平均风摄取而来,由此根据拟层流模型推导出谐波能量密度的计算公式,建立以等效风速和峰值频率等为基本参数的海浪谱模型——随机Fourier函数模型,并给出了确定谐波频率、波长、相速度、振幅以及等效风速等模型参数的原则和计算方法。在59个实测样本谱基础上,采用随机建模方法确定模型参数的取值及其概率分布。结果表明,海浪谱模型可以很好地预测谱能,所计算的物理谱与实测谱均值吻合良好。 相似文献
8.
The relationship between the RMS amplitudes of the wind wave spectral components and the wind speed has been studied at ten frequencies in the band of 0.65–23 Hz. To measure the parameters of the high-frequenci waves, a resistance elevation wave gauge was operated, which was deployed in the Black See on an oceanographic platform near Katsively. The correlation between the wave amplitudes and the wind velocity at high frequencies of 5–23 Hz, corresponding to gravitation-capillary ripples, was found to reach a value of 0.8. At lower frequencies of 0.65–4.3 Hz, corresponding to short gravity waves, it dropped to 0.5–0.7. The response of spectral components to the wind speed variations in the gravity-capillary range is higher than in the range of short gravity waves. The results obtained differ from Phillips' idea about a saturated range for the frequency form of the spectrum of high-frequency gravity waves, since a linear dependence of the spectral amplitudes on the wind speed is established at a wind of force 1–8.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov. 相似文献
9.
文章基于长乐海滩前滨剖面的实测波浪数据, 通过统计分析以及谱分析的方法, 探讨了潮汐过程中长乐海滩波浪参数及耗能过程的变化规律。结果表明, 观测期间内波浪以混合浪为主, 各测点谱型较宽, 存在多峰振荡现象。向岸传播过程中, 波能耗散的形式为窄频域向宽频域转变, 能量分布趋于分散, 高频波能减小, 低频波能反而有所上升, 波浪破碎后生成长重力波。破波带内的能量衰减与波浪传播距离具有良好的相关性, 破碎波能在破波带内大约衰减了98.3%。潮汐水位对波浪具有明显的调制作用。入射波能随潮汐水位的增加而有所增加, 且水位越高, 入射波能分布越分散。破波带内的有效波高和潮汐水位具有显著的正相关关系。潮汐过程中固定测点的波谱变化与波浪沿剖面的波谱变化具有明显的相似性。 相似文献
10.
Point absorber wave energy device with multiple degrees of freedom (DOF) is assumed to have a better absorption ability of mechanical energy from ocean waves. In this paper, a coaxial symmetric articulated point absorber wave energy converter with two degrees of freedom is presented. The mechanical equations of the oscillation buoy with power take-off mechanism (PTO) in regular waves are established. The three-dimensional numerical wave tank is built in consideration of the buoy motion based upon the CFD method. The appropriate simulation elements are selected for the buoy and wave parameters. The feasibility of the CFD method is verified through the contrast between the numerical simulation results of typical wave conditions and test results. In such case, the buoy with single DOF of heave, pitch and their coupling motion considering free (no PTO damping) and damped oscillations in regular waves are simulated by using the verified CFD method respectively. The hydrodynamic and wave energy conversion characteristics with typical wave conditions are analyzed. The numerical results show that the heave and pitch can affect each other in the buoy coupling motion, hydrodynamic loads, wave energy absorption and flow field. The total capture width ratio with two coupled DOF motion is higher than that with a single DOF motion. The wave energy conversion of a certain DOF motion may be higher than that of the single certain DOF motion even though the wave is at the resonance period. When the wave periods are high enough, the interaction between the coupled DOF motions can be neglected. 相似文献
11.
利用台湾海峡中部2号大浮标2017年全年的实测波浪资料, 对海浪的基本波要素及其与风的相关性、波谱特性进行统计分析, 得出了重要特征波参数之间的回归关系和适合台湾海峡中部的海浪谱形式。研究结果显示: 1) 台湾海峡中部的常浪向是NE向, 强浪向是NNE向, 月均有效波高的变化范围为0.87~2.98m, 7月波高最小, 12月波高最大, 波周期与波高有着相似的月际变化趋势; 2) 主要波浪类型是以风浪为主的混合浪, 谱型上以单峰为主, 波高与风速整体上呈正相关关系, 大浪主要由台风和强劲的东北季风引起; 3) 波浪的平均周期与大部分特征波周期之间具有良好的线性相关性, NNE、NE方向的波浪有效波高和有效波周期线性相关性较强; 4) 相比于Jonswap谱, 规范谱一是更符合本区域的海浪谱模式, 给出了基于有效波高和谱峰周期拟合的规范谱一形式。这些研究成果可为海洋工程设计和波浪数值模拟提供参考。 相似文献
12.
The paper considers the effects of sea roughness and atmospheric stability on the wind wave growth by using the logarithmic boundary layer profile including a stability function, as well as adopting Toba et al.'s [J. Phys. Ocean. 34 (1990) 705] significant wave height formula combined with some commonly used sea surface roughness formulations. The wind wave growth is represented by the non-dimensional total wave energy relative to that for neutral stability used by Young [Coast. Engng 34 (1998) 23]. For a given velocity at the 10 m elevation, spectral peak period and stability parameter, the wind wave growth is determined. 相似文献
13.
Paul C. Liu 《Ocean Engineering》1987,14(1)
This paper presents an objective assessment of three published wave spectrum formulas for the shallow sea. It compares wave spectra estimated by these formulas with those calculated from actual field measurements made in Lake Erie during 1981 in depths ranging from 1.4 to 14.0 m. The results show that the models each have various degrees of effectiveness and applicability. The choice of which model to use may depend upon the availability of input parameters, and is still basically subjective. The models specifically developed for the shallow depth are found to be less effective. The form of spectral representation may remain similar at all depths, with depth affecting only the wave parameters that characterize the spectrum form. 相似文献
14.
概念性地设计了一种新型半潜式海上风力机基础,确定了结构的型式和尺寸,对风浪联合作用下不同工况的风力机基础稳性进行了校核.考虑黏性阻尼和二阶波浪力的作用,计算分析了风力机基础的水动力系数、幅频运动以及动力响应特性.结果表明,经过改进的新型风力机基础具有良好的稳性和水动力性能,特别是在垂荡性能上有大幅的提升.波浪入射角度对垂荡的影响不大,但对其他自由度RAOs影响较大.垂荡、横摇和纵摇RAOs均存在一个主峰值和次峰值,但峰值周期均远离波能集中区.此外还发现,不同工况下风浪入射角对风机系统的动力响应和系泊力均有较大影响,相对于工作工况,极端工况下所受风荷载较小,但是系泊力更大. 相似文献
15.
《Ocean Modelling》2011,40(3-4):291-300
Filtering of the high-frequency part of a wind wave spectrum may be useful in a numerical wind wave model for various reasons. First, it can be used to augment (or be part of) a parameterization of the resonant nonlinear interactions, that are essential to third-generation wind wave models. Second, when combined with a dynamic time stepping scheme for source term integration, it may result in smoother (and hence faster) wave model integration. In this study, such a filter is proposed, based on the traditional Discrete Interaction Approximation (DIA) for the resonant four-wave nonlinear interactions. This filter retains all conservative properties of the interactions. For small time steps and/or smooth spectra, it is formulated as a traditional source term. For larger time steps and/or non-smooth spectra it is formulated as a filter. This formulation guarantees stability of the filter itself and will enhance overall computational stability in a full wave model. The stability properties of this filter are illustrated using traditional wave growth computations. Examples are given where the filter improves model economy, and where it is shown to remove spurious high-frequency noise from a wave model. 相似文献
16.
基于星载波谱仪海浪方向谱探测原理，仿真了不同海况、风速下的海浪波谱仪接收信号，并采用周期图法、Welch法、AR模型法以及最小方差法共4种不同的调制谱估计方法反演出海浪谱，比较各种调制谱估计方法的海浪方向谱反演性能。仿真结果表明:对于一定方位向下的一维海浪谱反演，不同调制谱估计方法反演海浪谱性能优劣没有绝对的顺序。对于二维海浪谱反演，在成长中海浪条件下周期图法反演性能最差，其他3种方法的反演性能没有绝对优劣顺序；对于成熟风浪，最小方差法在积分能量误差、有效波高误差两个指标上的反演性能最好，在主波波向、主波波长误差上，周期图法反演性能最差，其他3种方法没有绝对优劣顺序。在涌浪条件下，AR模型法反演性能优于其他3种方法。在不同海况下，随着波谱仪中心入射角的下降，反演性能会下降。基于这些仿真结果，本文推荐最小方差法作为充分成长海浪的海浪方向谱反演的调制谱估计方法，AR模型法作为涌浪海浪方向谱反演的调制谱估计方法。 相似文献
17.
Using in situ measurement data from May-June, 1998, and data from the Asian seas international acoustics experiment （ASIAEX） from 2001 in the South China Sea （SCS）, the spectral density function and the dissipa- tion spectrum function are estimated. In the inffa-gravity wave （IGW） band, the power spectra of velocity （u, v, w） are universal functions with respect to characteristic frequencies, which correspond to the peak fre- quencies of the dissipation spectrum （PFDS）. This suggests that high-frequency internal waves in the IGW band have similar dynamical characteristics. In addition, the evolution of these characteristic frequencies is explored and its highest value is 8.8 cph （cycles per hour, 1 cph=2.778× 10-3 Hz）. 相似文献
18.
《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(13):1797-1810
Reliable estimation of the on-site sea state parameters is essential to decision support systems for safe navigation of ships. The wave spectrum can be estimated from procedures based on measured ship responses. The paper deals with two procedures—Bayesian Modelling and Parametric Modelling—which both use complex-valued frequency response functions (FRF) to estimate the wave spectrum. It is therefore interesting to investigate how the filtering aspect, introduced by FRF, affects the final outcome of the estimation procedures. In order to do this, extensive numerical simulations—with known wave parameters—are carried out for a large container vessel. The study shows that filtering has an influence on the estimations, since high-frequency components of the wave excitations are not estimated as accurately as lower frequency components. 相似文献
19.
The energy characteristics in the evolution of the wave train are investigated to understand the inherent cause of the freak wave generation. The Morlet wavelet spectrum method is employed to analyze the numerical, laboratory and field evolution data of this generation process. Their energy distributions and variations are discussed with consideration of corresponding surface elevations. Through comparing the energy characteristics of three cases, it is shown that the freak wave generation depends not only on the continuous transfer of wave train energy to a certain region where finally the maximum energy occurs, but also on the distinct shift of the converged energy to high-frequency components in a very short time. And the typical energy characteristics of freak waves are also given. 相似文献
20.
两参量的海面阻力系数模式的探讨 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
从风浪的能量平衡方程出发，引进若干风要素与波要素以及波要素之间的定性关系，经演算可导出海面阻力系数（Ｃｐ）或是风速（Ｕ）和波龄（β）或是Ｕ和波高（Ｈ）的函数，然后沿用最小二乘法，终将得出４组１２个回归方程。当β（或β）或Ｈ为某一给定值，惟有Ｕ为唯一参量时，所提各式均可简化为非线性方程：ＣＤ＝ａ＋ｂ，Ｕ＋ｃ．Ｕ＾２；式中ａ，ｂ和ｃ为三个经验系数，就所检验的例子而言，本文的结果与实际的符合前人的为好。 相似文献