共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 46 毫秒
1.
Parameters in wind-wave frequency spectra and their bearings on spectrum forms and growth 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Wen Shengchang 《海洋学报(英文版)》1989,8(1):15-39
The spectrum variance m0, peak frequency ω0 and peakness factor p are expressed in terms of nondimensional fetch and duration by making use of relations which are derived through comparing and analyzing existing empirical formulas for the growth of significant wave height and period. The main features of spectrum growth as specified by these parameters agree with those of the JONS-WAP experiments. For given wind speed and fetch, the high frequency parts beyond the peaks of shallow water spectra almost coincide with that of the corresponding deep water spectrum, whereas the low frequency parts differ appreciably. The method developed in this paper predicts smaller significant wave height as well as smaller wave period for shallow water spectra in contrast to the theoretical result of Kitaigorodskii ef al, in which the peak frequency, and consequently the significant wave period, remains basically unchanged for different water depths. Spectra are further reduced to a form in which only significant wave h 相似文献
2.
Paul C. Liu 《Ocean Engineering》1985,12(2):151-160
Wind waves recorded in water from 1.4 to 3.8 m deep near the southeastern shore of Lake Erie during 1981 were used to compare two methods for representing wave spectra in shallow water. The results show that the semi-theoretical Wallops model, which requires total energy, peak energy frequency, and depth as parameters, provides fair agreement with observed spectra at the deeper stations but only marginal agreement in very shallow water. The general empirical model, which requires average frequency and energy density at the spectral peak as additional parameters, provides closer agreement with observed wave spectra for all depths. 相似文献
3.
- The spectral form of wind waves is investigated based on the ocean wave data observed at three nearshore stations of Taiwan. In this study, the generalized forms of Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum and JONSWAP spectrum are used to describe the local wave spectrum by selecting suitable spectral form parameters. It is shown that, at a specific site, the similarity of wave spectral form exists. Thus it is possible to use a representative spectral form for a given nearshore region to describe the wave spectrum at this nearshore. On the other hand, the effects of relative water depth on spectral form are examined. The feasibility of two spectral models in finite water depth is evaluated by using the same field wave data. 相似文献
4.
Carey W.M. Doutt J. Evans R.B. Dillman L.M. 《Oceanic Engineering, IEEE Journal of》1995,20(4):321-336
Calibrated acoustic measurements were made under calm sea state conditions on the New Jersey shelf near the AMCOR 6010 borehole, a surveyed area with known geophysical properties. The experiment was conducted in 73 m water with supporting measurements of salinity, temperature, and sound speed. Acoustic measurements were obtained with a vertical array of 24 hydrophones spaced equally at 2.5 m intervals; one of which was near the bottom. A source towed at 1/2 the water depth transmitted one of two sets of four tones spaced between 50 and 600 Hz for each run to ranges of 4 and 26 km. The data were processed with both a Hankel transform and a high resolution Doppler technique to yield horizontal wave-number spectrum at several depths. Results were obtained along both constant and gradually varying depth profiles. Similar modal interference patterns were observed at the lower frequencies. The constant depth-profile radial results were compared to calculations performed with several shallow water acoustic models using geoacoustic profiles derived from geophysical parameters and shear wave inversion methods 相似文献
5.
Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in tinite water depth, statistical distributions of the depth-integrated local horizontal momentum components are derived by use of the characteristic function expansion method. The parameters involved in the distributions can be all detemained by the water depth and the wavenumber spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, a fully developed wind-generated sea is considered and the parameters are calculated for typical wind speeds and water depths by means of the Donelan and Pierson spectrum. The effects of nonlinearity and water depth on the distributions are also investigated. 相似文献
6.
海洋波浪能平均功率的准确计算是波浪能开发和利用的基础。实践中，波浪能转换装置一般安装在有限水深区域。对于随机波，只有当详尽的波浪谱已知的时候，有限水深区的波能功率才能被准确计算出来。由于种种原因，实践中波浪的实测数据大多以散点图或有义波高和统计波周期的形式给出，而波浪谱信息有时则很难获得。基于这种情况，传统上人们利用无限水深条件下的相关公式来估算有限水深区域的波能功率，但这种做法会造成较大的误差。本研究显示，对于50 m水深的理论波谱JONSWAP谱来说该误差高达14.6%。为了提高波能功率计算的准确性，本文提出了一种基于能量频率的一阶和二阶近似算法，可以在未知波浪谱的情况下较为准确地计算不同水深时的波能功率。针对两种理论波浪谱的计算结果表明，本方法在计算有限带宽内的波能功率时计算误差低于2.8%。 相似文献
7.
Jacobus P. Le Roux Zeki Demirbilek Marysia Brodalka Burghard W. Flemming 《Geo-Marine Letters》2010,30(5):549-560
The generation and growth of waves in deep water is controlled by winds blowing over the sea surface. In fully developed sea
states, where winds and waves are in equilibrium, wave parameters may be calculated directly from the wind velocity. We provide
an Excel spreadsheet to compute the wave period, length, height and celerity, as well as horizontal and vertical particle
velocities for any water depth, bottom slope, and distance below the reference water level. The wave profile and propagation
can also be visualized for any water depth, modeling the sea surface change from sinusoidal to trochoidal and finally cnoidal
profiles into shallow water. Bedload entrainment is estimated under both the wave crest and the trough, using the horizontal
water particle velocity at the top of the boundary layer. The calculations are programmed in an Excel file called WAVECALC,
which is available online to authorized users. Although many of the recently published formulas are based on theoretical arguments,
the values agree well with several existing theories and limited field and laboratory observations. WAVECALC is a user-friendly
program intended for sedimentologists, coastal engineers and oceanographers, as well as marine ecologists and biologists.
It provides a rapid means to calculate many wave characteristics required in coastal and shallow marine studies, and can also
serve as an educational tool. 相似文献
8.
《Coastal Engineering》2004,50(4):169-179
Based on the second-order random wave solutions of water wave equations in finite water depth, a joint statistical distribution of two-point sea surface elevations is derived by using the characteristic function expansion method. It is found that the joint distribution depends on five parameters. These five parameters can all be determined by the water depth, the relative position of two points and the wave-number spectrum of ocean waves. As an illustrative example, for fully developed wind-generated sea, the parameters that appeared in the joint distribution are calculated for various wind speeds, water depths and relative positions of two points by using the Donelan and Pierson spectrum and the nonlinear effects of sea waves on the joint distribution are studied. 相似文献
9.
海洋浅层土质剪切波速与深度的关系分析 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
剪切波速是工程场地地震安全性评价最重要的参数之一。应用测试的大量海洋浅层土质的剪切波速数据,利用最小二乘法通过三种模型探讨了不同土质类型的剪切波速与深度的关系,给出了不同土质类型的剪切波速与深度拟合最佳的统计公式。并与《构筑物抗震设计规范》的推荐公式在某一海域工程场地的测试结果进行对比分析,结果表明:本文所建立的统计公式对剪切波速的预测效果明显好于规范所推荐的统计公式。所推荐的海洋不同土质类型的剪切波速与深度间的统计公式,可供无波速测试的海洋工程场地使用。 相似文献
10.
应用基于势流理论的时域高阶边界元方法,建立一个完全非线性的三维数值波浪水槽,通过实时模拟推板造波运动的方式产生波浪。通过混合欧拉-拉格朗日方法和四阶Runge-Kutta方法更新自由水面和造波板的瞬时位置。利用所建模型分别模拟了有限水深波和浅水波,与试验结果、相关文献结果和浅水理论结果吻合较好,且波浪能够稳定传播。系统地讨论造波板的运动圆频率、振幅和水深等对波浪传播和波浪特性的影响,并对波浪的非线性特性进行分析,研究发现造波板运动频率、运动振幅以及水深均将对波浪形态和波浪非线性产生显著影响。结果为真实水槽造波机的运动控制以及波浪生成试验提供了依据,便于实验室设置更合理的参数来准确模拟不同条件下的波浪。 相似文献
11.
V. A. Kalmykov 《Physical Oceanography》1998,9(2):121-127
Dispersion relations and phase velocities of surface gravity waves, with their non-linearity being considered, have been derived
numerically from an equation for a nonvortical incompressible fluid of finite depth. For all the depths being considered,
the dispersion relations are readily realized for the wavenumbers smaller than the wavenumber of the basic harmonic. Then
the acquired relations tend to increasingly deviate from the linear dispersion relations. This is the case for all the depths
and wave steepnesses under discussion. When the depth of the sea diminishes, the deviations dramatically increase in both
cases, when waves grow steeper and when the form of the wave spectrum changes from wide to narrow. This also holds for the
phase velocity of waves.
Numerical results are matched up with the experimentally derived data. For calculations, JONSWAP spectra of various width
have been used.
Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin. 相似文献
12.
13.
对目前仍广为使用的压力测波仪来说,如何通过波浪在某深度处的压力信息来推算海面的波浪状况呢?根据深水小振幅简单波动的经典理论,关系式Ho=Hz exp[kz]成立,式中Ho、Hz分别表示海面和水深z处的波高。将这一关系式应用于实际资料,则由波浪压力记录可以求出Hz、Tz(或λz),再由记录的深度z就可以求出Ho。 相似文献
14.
Remotely sensing in detecting the water depths and bed load of shallow waters and their changes 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Bed load is a type of sand drift and accumulation on the sea-bed. Sand drift is a very important index to survey the erosion or deposition of coastal zone. The change of water depths indicates the change of bed load in shallow waters. The conventional method for measuring water depth uses the shipboard echo sounder, which is accurate for point-measurement, but is a time-consuming and labor-intensive task. For periodic survey of bathymetry as synoptic scale, the remote sensing method may be a viable alternative. Wave spectrum bathymetric (WSB) method takes advantages of remote sensing to obtain the bathymetry of shallow waters safely, economically and quickly. The WSB method is feasible to detect the change of water depths over coastal zones where water depths are less than about 12 m. This remote sensing method is worthy to be well developed and efficiently applied to change detection of water depths and bed load in shallow waters. 相似文献
15.
本文基于海浪波折射现象和浅水波理论,提出了一种基于单景高分辨率光学遥感影像的浅海地形提取方法。首先,基于浅水波理论推导出适用于浅海区域的水深与海浪波长、频率的定量关系,针对近岸光学遥感图像复杂的海浪特征,讨论了两种海浪波长提取方法,即FFT方法和剖面线法。然后提出了基于长距离波长波动分析的海浪频率计算方法,解决了单景遥感影像的波浪频率计算难题。最后,利用单景QuickBird高分辨率光学遥感影像,以海南岛三亚湾为研究区域进行了应用实验,结果表明,对12m以浅的浅海区域,在不需要任何辅助参数的情况下,反演获得了浅海地形(DEM),经与1:25000比例尺海图的水深对比验证,地形趋势吻合良好,反演水深的均方根误差为1.07m,相对水深误差为16.2%,表明该方法适合于浅海水下地形的提取,且具有无需实测水深数据和环境参数的支持的优点。 相似文献
16.
17.
Yu. A. Stepanyants 《Physical Oceanography》1991,2(2):99-104
On the basis of well-known solutions, we analyse an internal surge, i.e. a sharp step-like variation of the pycnocline depth in a shallow basin. According to results obtained, in those cases where the pycnocline is situated approximately at mid-depth of the basin, the surge may have the form of a steadily moving non-linear wave (kink) governed by the combined Korteweg-de Vries equation with quadratic and cubic non-linearities. The vertical velocity component in such a wave has the form of a pulse and represents a soliton. Estimates of surge parameters obtained from real hydrologic data are in good agreement with the experimentally measured data.Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin. 相似文献
18.
P. Vethamony 《Ocean Engineering》1995,22(1)
Wave attenuation characteristics of a tethered float system have been investigated for various wave heights, wave periods, water depths, depths of submergence of floats and float sizes. As the floats are similar in size and shape, only a single tethered spherical float is considered for the theoretical analysis. Float motion is determined through the dynamical equation of motion, developed for a single degree of freedom. From incident and transmitted wave powers, transmission coefficients are computed. The results show that transmission coefficient does not vary with changes in wave height or water depth. When depth of submergence of float increases, wave attenuation decreases, showing that the system performs well when it is just submerged. As float velocity decreases with increase in float size, transmission coefficient increases with increase in float size. The influence of wave period on wave attenuation is remarkable compared to other parameters. The effect of drag on wave attenuation is studied for varying drag coefficient values. Theoretical results are compared with experimental values and it is found that theory overestimates wave attenuation which may probably be due to various linearisations involved in the theoretical formulation. 相似文献
19.
利用大型水槽设计了在由深水到近岸不同坡度处海浪在变浅作用下诱导产生的长周期重力波的实验。正态随机海浪在深水生成并沿斜坡向浅水传播,记录了不同水深处波面高度随时间的变化过程并进行统计分析和谱分析。实验数据分析结果表明,长周期重力波的能量随着水深的变浅而增高,其谱锋频率位于0.2~0.3fp附近,这里fp是深水正态海浪过程的谱峰频率。长周期重力波的能量与入射波的能量比与波面高度分布的偏度密切相关。进一步分析了两种波动的能量谱峰值比和波面高度分布偏度的相关关系,获得了经验关系,为预测近岸浅水长周期重力波提供了科学依据。 相似文献
20.
This paper describes wave directional spreading in shallow water. Waves were measured for a period of 2 months using the Datawell directional waverider buoy at 15 m water depth on the east coast of India in the Bay of Bengal. The study also showed that in shallow water wave directional spreading was narrowest at peak frequency and widened towards lower and higher frequencies. The wind direction was found to deviate from the wave direction during most of the time. The unidirectional spectrum was found to be satisfactorily represented by Scott spectra. 相似文献