共查询到19条相似文献，搜索用时 140 毫秒
1.
在实验室风浪槽中观测风浪,发现波群连长是影响波群中波高分布的重要因素,随着波群连长增大,波群中波高分布信息熵增大。当以平均波高无因次化,连长较大时波群中波高累积概率明显大于连长较小时情形。波群中波高分布受谱宽度影响。当谱宽度增大,波群中波高累积概率降低。谱宽度和波群连长对波群中波高累积概率的影响相当。引进体现波群特性的1个无因次化波高参量研究波群中波高累积概率。 相似文献
2.
本文研究波群间的相互作用对波高分布的影响。结果表明,波群间的非线性作用会导致波高分布偏离线性条件下的分布。在小波高、中波高范围内,波群间的非线性相互作用会使得波高分布高于线性条件下的分布,在大波高范围内会使得波高分布低于线性条件下的分布;非线性情形下波高分布高于和低于线性情形的转折区域在1.0～1.5倍平均波高处。实验结果与理论结果相符,并引入1个参量以反映波群间非线性作用对波高分布的影响程度,在连续谱情形,该参量相当于谱峰右侧与左侧的面积比。本文结果表明谱形与平均波陡同是影响波高分布的重要因素,在波高分布的研究中,谱形参量应作为被予以考虑的重要参量。 相似文献
3.
目前,各种海洋工程规范采用的有效波高H_(1/3)与最大波高H_(max)的关系各不相同,它们采用窄谱条件下的理论关系或经验关系。本文针对北部湾海区的实际波浪状况,利用测波资料计算了谱宽参数的分布规律,然后在宽谱的条件下分析并确定了最大波高H_(max)与有效波高H_(1/3)的关系随谱宽度参量ε与波个数N的变化规律,最后结合北部湾有效波高的长期分布计算出不同重现期约设计波高。 相似文献
4.
《海洋湖沼通报》2017,(2)
最大波高作为表征海浪强度和危险程度的重要指标,既是设计波浪推算的依据,同时又对海洋预报有重要的作用。基于瑞利分布得到的最大波高公式,不能体现波陡和谱宽度等非线性因素的影响,由该公式得出的理论最大波高与实际观测值有偏差。采用相位平均方法的海浪数值模型分析,可以根据海浪谱计算得到有效波高,却无法给出最大波高。本文通过分析挪威北海定点十年的船测波面资料,得出波浪谱,进一步推算出波陡和谱宽度对最大波高的影响。首先提出一种实测波数的替代方式,然后分别研究波陡和谱宽度对最大波高的影响。研究发现随着波陡和谱宽度的增加,Hmax/Hs逐渐减小,并拟合出最大波高与Cartwright谱宽度参数的公式,得到较好的拟合效果。 相似文献
5.
非线性海浪波面与波高的统计分布 总被引：10，自引：0，他引：10
采用风浪谱参量化的方法将随机波面无因次化,把波面与波高概率分布的各阶矩展开为谱宽度根方的幂级数,并由此导出波面与波高的统计分布。结果表明,在准确至零阶和一阶时,风浪分别退化为静止海面和单色波;在准确至二阶时,波面为线性模型,即波面服从正态分布;而在准确至三阶以上时,波面分布与Longuet-Higgins导出的非线性海浪模型的Gram-Charlier形分布具有同效益;并在准确至三阶时,导出一种新的波高分布,此分布函数以Longuet-Higgins等给出的Rayleigh分布作为二阶近似的特例。 相似文献
6.
从定常波的风浪波高随风距成长的预报公式出发 ,在一定条件下 ,导出各波向上风浪波高分量与该波向上的风距之间的关系 ,以便在不规则风区上推算风浪波高和平均波向 ;同时 ,对风区宽度作了定量化的分析。 相似文献
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8.
由于涌浪与风浪在特征物理参量及成长、衰亡上的显著不同,区分风涌浪以及研究涌浪对风浪的影响尤为重要。本文使用2013年及2015年大洋中的WaMoSⅡ测波雷达观测数据,研究了涌浪对风浪能量的影响。由于测波雷达仅使用了9s的有效周期作为谱分离判据,其所得风浪有效波高显著高于PM谱充分成长关系给出的波高。因此本文结合2D法与1D法,加入风速、风浪夹角、波龄等要素给出新的判据,重新对风、涌浪进行了分离。通过对比不同的波龄判据,发现当波龄取1.5时,所得结果与PM谱吻合良好。以Toba-3/2定律为基础,研究了不同类型涌浪对风浪能量的影响。发现三种类型涌浪存在时,风浪能量及有效波高整体上都有所增加,其中尤其以反向涌浪存在时增加最多。 相似文献
9.
波高非线性概率分布高阶谱数值模型研究 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
由于波浪的调制不稳定以及非线性波-波相互作用等因素的存在，波浪的分布会偏离线性假设下瑞利分布的结果。通过使用高阶谱模型对不同初始条件下波浪数值模拟。对统计得到的波高与线性理论下的瑞利分布和考虑非线性下改进的埃奇沃思-瑞利（MER）分布和依据Gram-Charlier展开的分布（GC分布）进行对比。结果表明，深水条件下波浪传播过程中偏度值变化较小，而峰度值出现增长。在较小有效波高值的波况下波高分布符合瑞利分布，但随着有效波高值的增加，波浪的非线性增强，波高分布与考虑非线性影响下的GC和MER分布结果相符。宽谱下的波高分布偏离瑞利分布的程度小于窄谱的情况，波高分布更接近瑞利分布的结果。 相似文献
10.
胶州湾波群的统计分析 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
本文根据胶州湾的自记波浪记录,对波高超过有效波高的波群作了初步的统计分析。统计的内容包括波群的连长及其频率、波群的重复长度、波群出现的频率。波群中的最大波高等。并将统计值和理论值进行比较,说明实测统计值大于理论值,表明自然界波群长度比理论值长。文章还根据现场资料计算谱宽度ε,谱峰尖度Q,波群的平均连长j_1,并讨论了谱峰尖度Q与谱宽ε、平连长j_1之间的关系。 相似文献
11.
In this paper experimental wind wave data are analyzed. It is found that differences in spectral width will give rise to differences in wave height distribution. The effect of spectral width on the distribution is mainly in the high wave range. The effect of wave steepness is in low, medium and high wave ranges. In the high wave range the effect of spectral width is comparable to that of wave steepness. Differences in spectral width in the observations may give rise to discrepancies in the result when wave steepness is the only parameter in the distribution. 相似文献
12.
A model for the depth-limited distribution of the highest wave in a sea state is presented. The distribution for the extreme wave height is based on a probability density function (pdf) for depth-limited wave height distribution for individual waves [Méndez, F.J., Losada, I.J., Medina, R. 2004. Transformation model of wave height distribution. Coastal Eng, Vol. 50, 97:115.] and considers the correlation between consecutive waves. The model is validated using field data showing a good representation of the extreme wave heights in the surf zone. Some important statistical wave heights are parameterized obtaining useful expressions that can be used in further calculations. 相似文献
13.
In this paper,the long-term statistical properties of wave height in an idealized square harborwith a partial opening are studied.The incident waves are propagated into the harbor numerically by the fi-nite/infinite element method using three different wave models:(1)monochromatic wave train,(2)long-crested random wave train,and(3)short-crested random wave train.This study shows that for a giv-en incident wave,the wave height in the harbor is affected by the wave model used.For long-term estima-tion of wave height exceedance probability,it is recommended that the waves be propagated into the har-bor using the random wave model,and that wave heights be computed by use of the Rayleigh probabilitydistribution. 相似文献
14.
LI Xue-yan WANG Qing YOU Zai-jin GUO Wei-jun ZHANG Jun-bin ZHAN Chao ZHANG Zhi-chen WANG Li-xue LI Qin 《中国海洋工程》2020,(1):89-98
Comprehensive experimental and numerical studies have been undertaken to investigate wave energy dissipation performance and main influencing factors of a lower arc-plate breakwater. The numerical model, which considers nonlinear interactions between waves and the arc-plate breakwater, has been constructed by using the velocity wave- generating method, the volume of fluid (VOF) method and the finite volume method. The results show that the relative width, relative height and relative submergence of the breakwater are three main influencing factors and have significant influence on wave energy dissipation of the lower arc-plate open breakwater. The transmission coefficient is found to decrease with the increasing relative width, and the minimum transmission coefficient is 0.15 when the relative width is 0.45. The reflection coefficient is found to vary slightly with the relative width, and the maximum reflection coefficient is 0.53 when the relative width is 0.45. The transmission and reflection coefficients are shown to increase with the relative wave height for approximately 85% of the experimental tests when the relative width is 0.19 0.45. The transmission coefficients at relative submergences of 0.04, 0.02 and 0 are clearly shown to be greater than those at relative submergences of 0.02 and 0.04, while the reflection coefficient exhibits the opposite relationship. After the wave interacts with the lower arc-plate breakwater, the wave energy is mainly converted into transmission, reflection and dissipation energies. The wave attenuation performance is clearly weakened for waves with greater heights and longer periods. 相似文献
15.
本文在作者另文数值模拟得到的三维海浪基础上 ,进一步分析给出了三维波峰长度、高度及方向角度等特征量的统计分布。发现考虑海浪的方向性质后波峰分布不再是均匀连续的 ;波峰的长度分布受方向函数影响 ,方向分布越宽 ,波峰的平均长度越短 ,波峰的方向角分布越宽 ;波峰高度和长度在波峰高度较小时有很大的相关性 ,而在波峰高度很大时无关 相似文献
16.
Underwater ultrasonic acoustic transducers are frequently used in ocean wave measurements as they measure surface level using acoustic waves. However, their effectiveness can be severely affected in rough sea conditions, when bubbles generated by breaking waves interfere with their acoustic signals. When the seas are rough, one therefore often has to rely on a pressure transducer, which is generally used as a back-up for the acoustic wave gauge. A pressure transfer function is then used to obtain the surface wave information. Alternatively, the present study employed an artificial neural network to convert the pressure signal into significant wave height, significant wave period, maximum wave height, and spectral peakedness parameter using data obtained from various water depths. The results showed that, for water depths greater than 20 m, the wave parameters obtained from the artificial neural network were significantly closer to those obtained by the acoustic measurements than those obtained by using a linear pressure transfer function. Moreover, for a given water depth, the wave heights estimated by the network model from pressure data were not as good as those estimated by linear wave theory for large wave heights (above a 4 m significant wave height in this study). This can be improved if the training data set has more records with large wave heights. 相似文献
17.
The relationship between significant wave height and period, the variability of significant wave period, the spectral peak enhancement factor, and the directional spreading parameter of large deepwater waves around the Korean Peninsula have been investigated using various sources of wave measurement and hindcasting data. For very large waves comparable to design waves, it is recommended to use the average value of the empirical formulas proposed by Shore Protection Manual in 1977 and by Goda in 2003 for the relationship between significant wave height and period. The standard deviation of significant wave periods non-dimensionalized with respect to the mean value for a certain significant wave height varies between 0.04 and 0.21 with a typical value of 0.1 depending upon different regions and different ranges of significant wave heights. The probability density function of the peak enhancement factor is expressed as a lognormal distribution, with its mean value of 2.14, which is somewhat smaller than the value in the North Sea. For relatively large waves, the probability density function of the directional spreading parameter at peak frequency is also expressed as a lognormal distribution. 相似文献
18.
Rodney J. Sobey 《Coastal Engineering》1996,27(3-4)
The correlation between individual waves in a real sea state has a central role in existing theories of wave grouping. The attractive Kimura (1980) theory has two critical assumptions, that the sequence of individual wave heights follows a Markov process and that the joint distribution of consecutive wave heights follows a bivariate Rayleigh form. Analysis of measured water surface records suggests that sequences of individual waves can reasonably be described as a first order mixed autoregressive, moving-average or ARMA process, though a distinction among ARMA (1,0), ARMA (0,1) and ARMA (1,1) models was beyond the resolution of the data. These include the Markov or ARMA (1,0) model. The decisive detail, the joint distribution of consecutive wave heights in the sea state, was evaluated by a simulation methodology that is consistent with the Gaussian random wave model. The estimates are dependent on spectral shape and are consistently narrower and more sharply focussed at the peak than the corresponding bivariate Rayleigh estimate. The resulting predictions of run and group length statistics differ from the Kimura theory, though not by a sufficient margin to displace the Kimura theory as a pragmatic choice for wave grouping. 相似文献
19.
The random long wave runup on a beach of constant slope is studied in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow water theory. These solutions are used for calculation of the statistical characteristics of the vertical displacement of the moving shoreline and its horizontal velocity. It is shown that probability characteristics of the runup heights and extreme values of the shoreline velocity coincide in the linear and nonlinear theory. If the incident wave is represented by a narrow-band Gaussian process, the runup height is described by a Rayleigh distribution. The significant runup height can also be found within the linear theory of long wave shoaling and runup. Wave nonlinearity nearshore does not affect the Gaussian probability distribution of the velocity of the moving shoreline. However the vertical displacement of the moving shoreline becomes non-Gaussian due to the wave nonlinearity. Its statistical moments are calculated analytically. It is shown that the mean water level increases (setup), the skewness is always positive and kurtosis is positive for weak amplitude waves and negative for strongly nonlinear waves. The probability of the wave breaking is also calculated and conditions of validity of the analytical theory are discussed. The spectral and statistical characteristics of the moving shoreline are studied in detail. It is shown that the probability of coastal floods grows with an increase in the nonlinearity. Randomness of the wave field nearshore leads to an increase in the wave spectrum width. 相似文献