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1.
A numerical model is developed that can predict the interaction of regular waves normally incident upon a curtainwall-pile breakwater; the upper part of which is a vertical wall and the lower part consists of an array of vertical piles. The numerical model is based on an eigenfunction expansion method, and utilizes a boundary condition nearby the vertical piles that accounts for wave energy dissipation. Numerical solution comprises a finite number of terms, which is a superposition of propagating waves and a series of evanescent waves. The modeling is validated by comparison with previous experimental studies and overall agreement between measurement and calculation is fairly good. The numerical results are related to reflection, transmission, and dissipation coefficient; wave run-up, wave force, and wave overturning moment are also presented. Effect of porosity, relative draft, and relative water depth are discussed; the choice of suitable range of them is described. The relative draft is more effective for shallow water waves. Model shows decrease in relative draft and leads to reduction of relative wave force, overturning moment, and runup. It is shown that curtainwall-pile breakwaters can operate both effectively and efficiently in the range of relative draft between 0.15 and 0.75. The range 0.5 to 0.2 is also recommended for porosity. 相似文献
2.
An analytic solution to the mild slope equation is derived for waves propagating over an axi-symmetric pit located in an otherwise constant depth region. The water depth inside the pit decreases in proportion to an integer power of radial distance from the pit center. The mild slope equation in cylindrical coordinates is transformed into ordinary differential equations by using the method of separation of variables, and the coefficients of the equation in radial direction are transformed into explicit forms by using the direct solution for the wave dispersion equation by Hunt (Hunt, J.N., 1979. Direct solution of wave dispersion equation. J. Waterw., Port, Coast., Ocean Div., Proc. ASCE, 105, 457–459). Finally, the Frobenius series is used to obtain the analytic solution. Due to the feature of the Hunt's solution, the present analytic solution is accurate in shallow and deep waters, while it is less accurate in intermediate depth waters. The validity of the analytic solution is demonstrated by comparison with numerical solutions of the hyperbolic mild slope equations. The analytic solution is also used to examine the effects of the pit geometry and relative depth on wave transformation. Finally, wave attenuation in the region over the pit is discussed. 相似文献
3.
The hydrodynamic properties of long rigid floating pontoon interacting with linear oblique waves in water of finite arbitrary depth are examined theoretically. The flow is idealized as linearized, velocity potentials are expressed in the form of eigen-function expansions with unknown coefficients. The fluid domain is split into three regions, region (1) wave-ward of the structure, region (2) in the lee of the structure, and region (3) beneath the structure. The different hydrodynamic quantities of interest such as the exciting forces, added mass and damping coefficients, reflection and transmission coefficients were studied for an applicable range of wave/structure parameters. Assuming rigid body motions, dynamic responses of the moored structure is approximately calculated through three equations of motion. Floating pontoons proved to be a convenient alternative for protection from waves in shallow water. The present method of solution was found to be computationally efficient, and results are comparable to those obtained through other techniques. 相似文献
4.
Abstract Studies of coastal bathymetry are important where littoral drift has implications on the planning of fishing and dredging operations. Also, there is a possibility of finding hitherto unknown bottom features in relatively less explored regions of the shallow seas around the globe. High resolution satellite imagery over oceans provides us with quantitative methods for estimating depth in shallow parts of the seas. One of the methods is the analysis of the refraction of coastal gravity waves observed on satellite imagery. A panchromatic image acquired by SPOT with 10 m resolution on March 22, 1986, over Bay of Bengal near Madras Coast, was used for this analysis. The image was enhanced to clearly bring out the wave structure seen on the sea surface. The image was then superimposed with a 1 km × 1 km grid. For each grid cell, 64 × 64 pixels at the center were considered for getting a Fast Fourier Transform to determine the wave spectrum and the dominant wavelength present there. The classical theory of gravity waves was used to relate the shallow water wavelengths obtained as above with the corresponding wavelengths in the deep water. The deep‐water wavelength was estimated to be 110 m using the known chart depths at a set of control points. The resulting depth estimates, when compared with standard bathymetric charts, were found, in general, to be well in agreement up to a depth of 30 m in the sea, with an r.m.s. error of 2.6 meters. The method seems to be very useful for remotely sensed bathymetric work. However, further research is required to reduce the error margin and operationalize the method. 相似文献
5.
Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Three Dimensional Waves in Water of Arbitrary Varying Topography 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
HONG Guangwen ZHANG Hongsheng FENG Weibing Professor Coastal Ocean Engineering Research Institute Hohai University 《中国海洋工程》1998,(4)
—The numerical simulation is based on the authors＇high-order models with a dissipative termfor nonlinear and dispersive wave in water of varying depth.Corresponding finite-difference equations andgeneral conditions for open and fixed natural boundaries with an arbitrary reflection coefficient and phaseshift are also given in this paper.The systematical tests of numerical simulation show that the theoreticalmodels,the finite-difference algorithms and the boundary conditions can give good calculation results forthe wave propagating in shallow and deep water with an arbitrary slope varying from gentle to steep. 相似文献
6.
Vertical variations of wave-induced radiation stress tensor 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
INTRODUcrIONThe concept of radiation stress was deve1oPed by tonguet--Higgins and Stewart (1964 ),who intreduced the definition of radiation stress as the excess mornentum due to the presence ofwaves, on the basis of time-averaged laws of Newtonian fluid mechanics and the assmption ofa unifOrm velocity distribution over depth. Subequently, the theory has been applied success-fully in the investigation of phenomena such as wave set-up and set--down (Bowen et al.,l968), longshore currents … 相似文献
7.
Refraction of incoherent random gravity waves with currents and bottom topography results in spatial variations in the spectral characteristics of the free surface. Prediction of such variations based on the radiation transfer equation is in a simple analytic form for the case of one dimensional inhomogeneities in currents and topography. This analytic form is examined in terms of two-dimensional wave number- and polar frequency-direction spectra along the associated dynamic and kinematic constraints relevant to wave breaking and reflection. Results are specialized to the simplest case of horizontal shear currents in deep and shallow water with explicit examples to illustrate the relative and combined effects of currents and topography on free surface spectra. 相似文献
8.
This paper describes a simple method for determining the wavelength of small amplitude waves under laboratory conditions where reflected wave components are present both with and without a mean current flow superimposed. It assumes a locally horizontal bed but requires no a priori assumption concerning the form of the dispersion relation with a coexisting current. Synchronous measurements of the water surface recorded along any straight line are analysed to yield Fourier coefficients at each location. It is then shown that for all practical conditions excluding a perfect standing wave, the average rate of change of wave phase in the chosen direction can be related directly to the component of incident wave number in that direction, irrespective of reflection coefficient or relative current strength. The technique has been applied to regular and bichromatic waves in a flume with an absorbing wave generator, and can also be applied in 3-D wave basins where waves and currents intersect at arbitrary angles. In combined wave–current experiments, by assuming the linear dispersion relation, it is also possible to estimate the effective current velocity. 相似文献
9.
The equation for non-linear water waves in shallow water with cylindrical symmetry is established in the form of the Extended KdV (EKdV) equation. The method of solution is based on the Split Step Fourier Algorithm. It is applicable in both directions; that is, given a wave record near the origin, the theory predicts the wave evolution. Similarly, given a wave record at a distance from the origin, the method is able to predict the original wave near the origin. Theory is applied to and verified by transient wave records obtained from underwater explosions and by dropping a large cylindrical plate in very shallow water. The difference between the KdV and the Extended KdV equation is emphasized for small valuev of Ursell parameter. 相似文献
10.
遥感测深技术是海岸、河口及其他水体水深测量的一种新方法,应用前景广阔。在海洋的近岸、河口处水体相对浑浊,利用可见光技术测深的精度依赖于建立合适的水深反演模型和考虑水体悬浮物质的影响。选择合适的水深反演因子和比较多种线性、非线性水深反演模型,通过对水体悬浮泥沙光谱特性的研究,建立了适于河口、近岸浅水浑浊水体并考虑悬沙浓度影响的水深反演模型。通过检验,由该模型反演的平均相对误差小于15%,在7~14 m的水深段反演效果更好,其平均相对误差小于8.5%。 相似文献
11.
12.
Longitudinal and transverse oscillations within a harbor of constant slope are analyzed. Based on the linear shallow water approximation, longitudinal oscillations are described with Bessel equations. Ignoring friction, oscillations are forced using the period of the incident perpendicular wave field by the method of matched asymptotics. The analytic results show that the varying depth shifts the resonant wave numbers to lower values than those for the same geometric harbor with constant depth. Furthermore, we extend the shallow water equations to a linear, weakly dispersive, Boussinesq-type equation by modifying the offshore velocity component, and then use it to investigate possible existing transverse oscillations in the harbor of constant slope. These oscillations are types of standing edge waves. Their character is quite sensitive to the boundary condition at the backwall of the harbor. 相似文献
13.
J. Bhattacharjee 《Ocean Engineering》2011,38(13):1528-1544
Diffraction of obliquely incident waves by a floating structure near a wall with step-type bottom topography is investigated under the three-dimensional small amplitude wave theory. Full solution of the problem under the potential flow approach is obtained by the matched eigenfunction expansion method. The wave-induced forces on the structure and on the wall, the reflection and transmission characteristics and the wave elevations in the free surface regions are studied for different incident wave angles, water depth ratios and dimension of the structure and the distance of the wall from the center of the structure. The problem is reformulated under shallow water approximations and results are compared with the finite depth results. 相似文献
14.
A new set of equations of motion for wave propagation in water with varying depth is derived in this study. The equations expressed by the velocity potentials and the wave surface elevations include first-order non-linearity of waves and have the same dispersion characteristic to the extended Boussinesq equations. Compared to the extended Boussinesq equations, the equations have only two unknown scalars and do not contain spatial derivatives with an order higher than 2. The wave equations are solved by a finite element method. Fourth-order predictor–corrector method is applied in the time integration and a damping layer is applied at the open boundary for absorbing the outgoing waves. The model is applied to several examples of wave propagation in variable water depth. The computational results are compared with experimental data and other numerical results available in literature. The comparison demonstrates that the new form of the equations is capable of calculating wave transformation from relative deep water to shallow water. 相似文献
15.
基于非静压单相流模型NHWAVE建立了高精度二维数值波浪水槽,采用日本2011年实测真实海啸波型系统研究了海啸波在岛礁上传播变形的规律,并且分析了波高、礁坪淹没水深和礁前斜坡坡度等因素对孤立波和真实海啸传播变形的影响。结果表明,相比孤立波,类海啸波的波长明显大于孤立波波长,在测点处引起的水面变化持续时间更长,同等波高情况下真实海啸波型比孤立波能够携带更多的能量,与岛礁的相互作用也更为复杂,在礁坪上形成的淹没水深约为孤立波的两倍。礁前斜坡坡度和礁坪淹没水深均对类海啸波的反射和透射系数有显著影响。随着礁前斜坡坡度的增加,反射系数和透射系数均逐渐增加。随着礁坪淹没水深的增加,反射系数逐渐减小,而透射系数逐渐增大。但是,反射系数和透射系数均随着入射波高的增加而逐渐减小。 相似文献
16.
Ephemeral sand waves in the hurricane surf zone 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Andrew B. Kennedy K. Clint Slatton Tian-Jian Hsu Michael J. Starek Kittipat Kampa 《Marine Geology》2008,250(3-4):276-280
Airborne bathymetric LIDAR observations along the Florida panhandle after Hurricane Dennis (2005) show the first unequivocal observations of surf-zone sand wave trains.
These are found in depths of 5m along the trough of the hurricane bar, where hindcasts show strong longshore currents only during severe storms. The waves extend over tens of kilometers of coast after Dennis but are absent from the same area in four other datasets. Observed wavelength to water depth ratios are comparable to river dunes and tidal sand waves but height to depth ratios are smaller, with the largest wave heights around 0.1 times the water depth. The sand wave generation mechanism is hypothesized to be from wind-and-wave-induced longshore currents, which were hindcast to be large during Dennis, with destruction from water wave orbital velocities. 相似文献
17.
Subrata K. Chakrabarti 《Ocean Engineering》1999,26(10):446
Breakwaters are often built in coastal waters to facilitate navigation and recreation, both inside and outside regions of the breakwater. This requires that the reflection and transmission characteristics of the structure be both minimized at the same time. This is achieved by a design that will allow dissipation of wave energy by multiple reflection. Such structures will need the knowledge of these characteristics in their design. Model tests were performed on a shallow water breakwater concept of this type to determine the reflection and transmission coefficients. The concept of the breakwater was to reduce both the reflection and transmission of waves. It was found that the breakwater design was effective at certain wave characteristics. Nondimensional loads and local pressures on the breakwater panels are also reported which will facilitate the structural design of such breakwaters. 相似文献
18.
台湾浅滩海底沙波精细特征、分类与分布规律 总被引：2，自引：2，他引：0
迄今由于缺乏高精度的实测水深数据,对台湾浅滩沙波的精细结构缺乏详细的阐述。本文基于多波束实测资料研究台湾浅滩沙波形态的精细特征及其分布规律。多波束探测结果显示:研究区沙波的平均波高达到13.5m,沙波波峰处水深为20.42m,沙波平均波高约为水深的2/3,沙波的波长大多数处于500~700m之间。研究区内主要发育3种类型的沙波,即摆线型沙波、余弦型沙波和双峰型沙波。研究区西部主要发育双峰型沙波,中部则主要发育余弦型和摆线型沙波,而东部主要发育摆线型沙波,整个区域以摆线型沙波为主。海平面波动、台湾海峡复杂的水动力条件以及台湾岛丰富的山溪河流携带的大量沉积物进入海峡,对浅滩区的沙波具有强烈的改造作用。 相似文献
19.
Graham J.M. Copeland 《Coastal Engineering》1985,9(3):195-219
Numerical models of combined surface gravity wave refraction, diffraction and reflection can be solved conveniently in terms of the water surface displacement, η, and a vertically integrated, wave-induced, water particle velocity, Q. However, the normal formulation for the radiation stress components, expressed in terms of the wave energy, wave number and water depth, is correct only for linear progressive waves.This paper describes a method of calculating the radiation stress for a linear progressive wave plus an arbitrary reflected or back-scattered wave in terms of variables η and Q. The calculations are related to a finite-difference scheme. Correction factors are given which compensate for the errors introduced by the use of finite differentials in the calculation of certain elements of radiation stress.The theory upon which the analytical method is based is only exact for water of uniform depth. However, results are presented which show that the errors are not significant (typical error less than ± 2%) for bed slopes of less than 1:3. 相似文献
20.
淹没矩形防波堤透反射系数特性研究 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：2
采用解析方法研究了斜向入射波作用下淹没矩形防波堤的透反射系数特性.首先利用特征函数展开法导出了绕射势函数的分析解和透反射系数的计算公式,然后利用边界元方法验证了解析解,在此基础上利用解析解分析了若干工况下的防波堤透反射特性.计算结果表明,淹没矩形防波堤截面的宽度、高度和相对位置以及入射角的改变都不同程度影响反射系数和透射系数.在中等深度条件下,对于一定频率的波浪,位置和尺寸适当的淹没矩形堤可以反射大部分斜向入射波.研究结果对设计淹没的矩形防波堤具有重要的参考价值. 相似文献