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1.
An artificial sand wave on the Dutch shoreface of the North Sea has been studied in conditions with relatively strong tidal currents in the range of 0.5 to 1 m/s and sediments in the medium sand size range of 0.2 to 0.5 mm. The sand wave is perpendicular to the tidal current and has a maximum height and length of the order of 5 m and 1 km, respectively. The sand wave is dynamically active and shows migration rates of the order of a few metres per year. A numerical morphodynamic model (DELFT3D model) has been used to simulate the morphological behaviour of the sand wave in the North Sea. This model approach is based on the numerical solution of the three-dimensional shallow water equations in combination with a surface wave propagation model (wind waves) and the advection–diffusion equation for the sediment particles with online bed updating after each time step. The model results show that the sand wave grows in the case of dominant bed-load transport (weak tidal currents; relatively coarse sediment; small roughness height; low waves) and that the sand wave decays in the case of dominant suspended transport (strong currents, relatively fine sediment, large roughness height; storm waves). 相似文献
2.
风浪是影响浅水湖泊物理生境环境重要的水动力要素之一。基于滆湖实测风浪数据, 建立了滆湖风浪模型, 验证结果表明模型可以较好模拟滆湖风浪随风场变化情况。在此基础上开展滆湖北部水域在人工地形重塑工程实施后的风浪变化情况分析。结果表明, 不同季节盛行风下, 风浪强度和湖底扰动强度均有一定程度的衰减, 这有利于水体透明度和水底光照条件的改善。风浪强度的衰减使得具有有利于水生植物生长与发育风浪条件的水域面积显著扩增。人工地形重塑的实施, 有利于滆湖北部水域水生植被物理生境环境改善, 从而为滆湖北部水域水生植被的修复提供较好的环境支撑, 也为其他浅水湖泊地形重塑工程的实施提供借鉴。 相似文献
3.
Momoki Koga 《Journal of Oceanography》1984,40(2):105-114
The relation between the intensity of breaking of individual wind-wave crests and parameters of wave size and wave form (e. g., height, period, steepness and skewness) is examined, and the process of change of these parameters is studied in a wind-wave
tank (reference wind speed 15 m sec−1, fetch 16 m). Distributions of the wave form parameters are different for breaking and nonbreaking waves. Fully breaking
waves seem to hold the relationH ∞T
2, whereH is the individual wave height andT is the period. The condition of breaking is not simply determined by the simple criterion of Stokes' limit. Wave height and
steepness of a breaking wave are not always larger than those of a nonbreaking wave. This suggests the existence of an overshooting
phenomenon in the breaking wave. The wave form parameters are found to change cyclically in a statistical sense during the
wave propagation. The period of the cycle in the present case is estimated to be longer than four wave periods. An intermittency
of wave breaking is associated with this cyclic process. Roughly speaking, two or three succeeding breaking-waves sporadically
exist among a series of nonbreaking waves along the fetch. 相似文献
4.
ＡｐｐｌｉｃａｔｉｏｎｏｆｔｈｅｆｏｕｒｍｏｄｅｌｓｏｆｄｉｒｅｃｔｉｏｎａｌｓｐｅｃｔｒａｉｎｔｈｅＢｏｈａｉＳｅａ￥ＷｕＸｉｕｊｉｅａｎｄＴｅｎｇＸｕｅｃｈｕｎ（ＦｉｒｓｔＩｎｓｔｉｔｕｔｅｏｆＯｃｅａｎｏｇｒａｐｈｙ，ＳｔａｔｅＯｃｅａｎｉｃＡ... 相似文献
5.
Tidal measurements and a depth-averaged 2D model are used to examine wave progression and circulation in a long, shallow, micro-tidal lagoon in Sri Lanka. Ranges and phase lags for different tidal constituents are used to calibrate the model. A single drag coefficient, Cd = 0.0032, gives almost perfect agreement with data. Current measurements are used for validation of the model. The lagoon tide consists of a combination of progressive and standing waves, where progressive waves dominate in the outer part and standing waves in the inner. A Lagrangian based particle-tracking method is developed to study tidally and wind induced residence times. If tides were the only factor affecting the residual circulation, the residence time inside the narrowest section would be approximately 100 days. Steady winds (of typical monsoon average) decrease the residence times to 60–90 days. Estuarine forcing due to net freshwater supply is not modelled (due to lack of reliable runoff data), but independent, long-term salinity observations and calculations based on volume and salt conservation during periods of negligible freshwater supply (the lagoon is seasonally hypersaline) indicate residence times ranging from 40 to 80 days. Model derived residence times based on tides alone represent a minimum exchange. Even weak forcing, through winds, excess evaporation or freshwater supply efficiently reduces residence times. 相似文献
6.
Radar data from three experiments are analysed. Scatter characteristics of 50 cm wind-generated waves have been investigated
with a C-band radar in a large wind-wave tank. Evidence of wave groups in sea clutter from the west coast of Scotland in the
Sound of Sleat is also presented. The spectrum of the waves in the sound is narrow-banded and the waves are young, like the
wind-wave spectrum in the laboratory. Clutter measurements, collected on the English south coast at Portland, of more ocean-like
waves with broad band spectra also suggest the presence of wave groups. Evidence of the presence of wave groups is demonstrated
in range-time images, as well as in the Fourier domain. Some ad hoc processing schemes, the normalised variance and binary
threshold techniques, were successfully applied to enhance the appearance of the wave groups. The wind waves change frequency
with fetch in the wave tank and the downshifting process is investigated using range-frequency maps of the radar data. The
waves appear to change frequency in discrete steps that are associated with wave breaking events. The difference in wave period
before and after breaking could be measured, and a wave crest was shown to be lost to compensate for the change in period,
as expected. Some downshifting could also be measured in the Sound of Sleat. The ratio of wave group frequency and wave frequency
is inaccordance with Benjamin-Fier sideband instability theory, as it is for the data measured at Portland.
This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date. 相似文献
7.
Field measurements were conducted in Mont-Saint-Michel Bay, a megatidal embayment (spring tidal range of 15 m), in order to monitor, over the course of a tidal cycle, sediment transport variability due to waves and tides on the upper part of a tidal flat characterised by shallow water depths. Sensors used to measure currents, water depth and turbidity were installed just above the bed (0.04 m). Two experiments were conducted under contrasting hydrodynamic conditions. The results highlight wave activity over the tidal flat even though observed wind waves were largely dissipated due to the very shallow water depths. Very high suspended sediment concentrations (up to 6 kg/m3) were recorded in the presence of wave activity at the beginning of the local flood, when significant sediment transport occurred, up to 7 times as much as under conditions of no wave activity. This influence may be attributed to the direct action of waves on bed sediments, to wave-induced liquefaction, and to the erosive action of waves on tidal channel banks. The sediment composition, comprising a clay fraction of 2-5%, may also enhance sediment transport by reducing critical shear stress through the sand lubrication effect. The results also show that antecedent meteorological conditions play an important role in suspended sediment transport on the tidal flat. Total sediment flux directions show a net transport towards the inner part of the bay that contributes to deposition over the adjacent salt marshes, and this tendency also prevails during strong wave conditions. Such sediment transport is characterised by significant variability over the course of the tidal cycle. During fair and moderate weather conditions, 83% and 71% of the total flux was observed, respectively, over only 11% and 28% of the duration of the local tidal cycle and with water depths between 0.04 and 0.3 m. These results suggest that in order to improve our understanding of sediment budgets in this type of coastal environment, it is essential to record data just at the beginning and at the end of tidal submergence close to the bed. 相似文献
8.
9.
在实验室风浪水槽中进行纯风浪和混合浪波面位移观测,研究波长较长的规则波对风浪能量的影响.本文用混合浪和纯风浪中的风浪显著波的零阶谱矩之比代表混合浪中的风浪与纯风浪能量之比,并以此表征涌浪对风浪能量的影响.研究了该能量比随涌浪波陡S、风区x、波龄倒数u/C、涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比fs/fwp的变化规律.结果表明,涌浪对风浪能量的抑制作用随涌浪波陡的增加、波龄倒数的增大及涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比的增大而增强.发现该能量比依赖于无因次量R=(1+80(πS)2)1.9(fs/fwp)0.9(u/C)0.27,并拟合得到2者的经验关系.此外,本文实验还发现,在某些情况下,涌浪的存在使风浪能量增加. 相似文献
10.
The microwave backscattering from wind-wave surfaces is observed in a windwave tunnel under various conditions of the wind and wind waves, and its statistical features are investigated. The dependence of the backscattered power on the wind speed and the incident angle shows similar features to those predicted by models proposed previously. However, the dependence of the backscattered power on the incident angles also corresponds to the asymmetrical feature of the wind-wave surfaces with respect to the wind direction. The spectral analyses of time series of the backscattered intensity show that the propagating speed of fine structures of the wind-wave surface contributing to the backscattering at large incident angles does not coincide with the phase speed of the freely propagating Braggwaves. Atupwind incidence, the surface structures of wind waves contributing to the backscattering propagates with the dominant waves at their phase speed. This result is inconsistent with the two-scale model in which the Bragg waves are simply superimposed on longer waves, but is consistent with the results of optical observation by Ebuchiet al. (1987). At downwind incidence, the propagating speed is slower than the phase speed of the dominant waves. 相似文献
11.
Murray J. Smith Craig L. Stevens Richard M. Gorman John A. McGregor Cameron G. Neilson 《新西兰海洋与淡水研究杂志》2013,47(5):985-1000
Locally generated wind‐waves in estuaries play an important role in the sediment dynamics and the transport of biota. Wave growth in estuaries is complicated by tidally varying depth, fetch, and currents. Wave development was studied at six sites along a transect across Manukau Harbour, New Zealand, which is a large intertidal estuary with a tidal range of up to 4 m. Three meteorological masts were also deployed across the measurement transect to measure wave forcing by the wind. A spatial variation in wind speed by up to a factor of 2 was observed which has a significant effect on wave development at short fetches. The wind variation can be explained by the extreme change in surface roughness at the upwind land‐water boundary. The tidally varying depth results in non‐stationary wave development. At the long fetch sites wave development is dictated by the tidally varying depth with peak frequencies continuing to decrease after high water, whereas wave height is attenuated by bottom friction. The non‐dimensional energy and peak frequency parameters commonly used to describe wave growth, clearly exhibit depth limiting effects, but with wider scatter than in previous studies in simpler environments. The peak frequency predictions of Young & Verhagen (1996a) fit our data well. However, the wide variability of energy limits the usefulness of standard growth prediction curves in such situations, and highlights the requirement for a validated, shallow‐water numerical model. 相似文献
12.
The Bay of Banten is an example of a shallow-water reef environment adjacent to an eroding delta system, where corals survive in turbid conditions. This study investigated the hydrodynamic controls over residual fluxes of terrigenous sediment in the bay. Observations of wind, waves, currents and suspended sediment concentrations in 1998 and 1999 revealed contrasting dynamic turbidity conditions influenced by tides, monsoon-driven flows and locally generated waves. The most sediment-rich suspensions originate from the shallow coastal margin of an inactive delta, where waves resuspend sediment and small creeks discharge freshwater and sediment. Because of coupling between monsoonal wind, throughflow in the bay and wave height, when wave-induced resuspension peaks seasonally during the northwest monsoon, an eastward throughflow prevents the nearshore reefs in the bay from being directly exposed to turbid water masses generated in the eroding delta. In inshore waters, tidal asymmetry and the spatial variation of current amplitudes cause residual sediment transport, largely depending on the availability of erodible sediment. In the center of the bay, where there is a patch reef complex, the tidal and subtidal currents are weak and therefore here there is a zone where sediment accumulates. 相似文献
13.
Wave Numerical Model for Shallow Water 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
The history of forecasting wind waves by wave energy conservation equation is briefly des-cribed.Several currently used wave numerical models for shallow water based on different wave theoriesare discussed.Wave energy conservation models for the simulation of shallow water waves are introduced,with emphasis placed on the SWAN model,which takes use of the most advanced wave research achieve-ments and has been applied to several theoretical and field conditions.The characteristics and applicabilityof the model,the finite difference numerical scheme of the action balance equation and its source termscomputing methods are described in detail.The model has been verified with the propagation refractionnumerical experiments for waves propagating in following and opposing currents;finally.the model is ap-plied to the Haian Gulf area to simulate the wave height and wave period field there,and the results arecompared with observed data. 相似文献
14.
Simulation of a storm surge caused by Typhoon 9918 in the Yatsushiro Sea, Kyushu, Japan was hindcasted by the synchronous
coupled wind-wave-surge model composed of a Meso-scale meteorological model (MM5) for the wind and sea surface pressure, a
spectral third-generation wind-wave model (Wavewatch III) for waves, and the coastal ocean model (Princeton Ocean Model).
Inclusion of the whitecap wave breaking stresses (whitecap dissipation stress) in the coastal ocean model made it possible
to reproduce the extreme surge height in the extremely shallow bay. 相似文献
15.
Yoshiaki Toba 《Journal of Oceanography》1972,28(3):109-120
A new growth equation for wind waves of simple spectrum is presented upon three basic concepts. The period and the wave height of significant waves in dimensionless forms, which are considered to correspond to the peak frequency and the energy level, respectively, are used as representative quantities of wind waves. One of the three basic concepts is the concept of local balance, and the other two concern the acquisition of wave energy and the dissipation of wave energy, respectively. It is shown from some actual data that the equation, together with two universal constants concerning the acquisition and the dissipation of wave energy (B=6.2×10?2 andK=2.16×10?5, respectively), is applied universally to wide ranges of wind waves from those in a wind-wave tunnel to fully developed sea in the open ocean. “The three-second power law for wind waves of simple spectrum”, and a few relations as the lemmas, are derived, such that the mean surface transport due to the orbital motion of wind waves is always proportional to the friction velocity in wind, and that the steepness is inversely proportional to the root of the wave age. It is also derived that the portion of wind stress which directly enters the wind waves decreases exponentially with increasing wave age and is 7.5 % of the total wind stress for very young waves. Also, equations are presented as to the increase of momentum of drift current, and as to the supply of turbulent energy by wind waves into the upper ocean. 相似文献
16.
Yoshiaki Toba 《Journal of Oceanography》1989,45(5):350-359
I feel greatly honoured to be awarded the Oceanographical Society of Japan Prize for 1989, and to be given this opportunity to look back at my past activities in research and education, and to present them as an example for younger members of our Society. Taking this opportunity, I acknowledge with sincere thanks many persons who guided me or who have collaborated with me since I was a young student up to the present.My past academic history may be divided into three periods. In the first period (1955–71) at Kyoto University which included and eighteen month visit to the University of Chicago, I studied the production of air bubbles and droplets at the sea surface by wind-wave breaking, and the supply and distribution of the sea-salt particles from the sea to the atmosphere. The first nondimensional formulation of the form of single air bubbles floating at liquid surfaces was also presented. In the second period (1971–1981) I pursued, at the new Physical Oceanography Laboratory of Tohoku University, the concept of wind waves which are coupled with the wind. I proposed the 3/2-power law of wind waves and the high frequency part of the wind-wave spectral form which is proportional to the friction velocity of air and to the –4th power of frequency. Detailed investigations of wind-wave phenomena were also performed in wind-wave tunnels by introducing quantitative flow visualization techniques and together with my students, we elucidated ordered motions in the flows below and above wind waves. The Tohoku Wave Model was also developed in which the similarity laws of wind waves, which are strongly coupled with the air flow, were explicitly used. In the third period (1982-present), my area of interest has become broader and, togerther with my students and my overseas collaboratos, we are studying the connection of local physical processes at the air-sea boundary with studies of larger scale ocean-atmosphere interactions. One aspect of this has led to the organization of the Ocean Mixed Layer Experiment (OMLET, 1987–91), as part of the Japanese national programmes of the World Climate Research Programme. Another interest is the ongoing fundamental study of the use of satellite data for the estimation of air-sea fluxes over a broad area. Pursuit of the roots of the similarity laws of the windsea remains one of my present tasks. 相似文献
17.
A. Warn-Varnas J. Hawkins K.G. Lamb S. Piacsek S. Chin-Bing D. King G. Burgos 《Ocean Modelling》2010,31(1-2):9-27
A high resolution modeling study is undertaken, with a 2.5-dimensional nonhydrostatic model, of the generation of internal waves induced by tidal motion over the ridges in Luzon Strait. The model is forced by the barotropic tidal components K1, M2, and O1. These tidal components, along with the initial density field, were extracted from data and models. As the barotropic tide moves over the Luzon Strait sills, there is a conversion of barotropic tidal energy into baroclinic tidal energy. Depressions are generated that propagate towards the Asian Seas International Acoustics Experiment (ASIAEX) test site on the Chinese continental shelf. Nonlinear effects steepen the depressions, frequency and amplitude dispersion set in, and disintegration into large amplitude solitary waves occurs. The effects of varying the initial density field, tidal component magnitudes, as well as adding a steady background current to represent the occasional excursions of the Kuroshio Current into the strait, are considered.Depressions are generated at each of the two sills in Luzon Strait which radiate away, steepening and evolving into internal solitary wave trains. Baroclinic fluxes of available potential energy, kinetic energy and linear are calculated for various parameter combinations. The solitary wave trains produced in the simulations generally consist of large amplitude wave trains alternating with small amplitude wave trains. During strong tidal flow, Kelvin–Helmholtz type instabilities can develop over the taller double-humped sill. The solitary waves propagating towards the ASIAEX test site have been observed to reach amplitudes of 120–250 m, depending on the tidal strength. ASIAEX observations indicate amplitudes up to 150 m and the Windy Island Experiment (WISE) measurements contain magnitudes over 200 m. The model results yield solitary wave amplitudes of 70–300 m and half widths of 0.60–3.25 km, depending on parameter values. These are in the range of observations. Measurements by Klymak et al. (2006), in the South China Sea, exhibit amplitudes of 170 m, half widths of 3 km and phase speeds of 2.9 m s?1. Model predictions indicate that the solitary waves making up the wave packet each experience different background currents with strong near surface shear.The energy in the leading soliton of the large amplitude wave trains ranges between 1.8 and 9.0 GJ m?1. The smaller value, produced using barotropic tidal currents based on the Oregon State University data base, is the same as the energy estimated to be in a solitary wave observed by Klymak et al. (2006). Estimates of the conversion of barotropic tidal energy into radiating internal wave energy yield conversion rates ranging between 3.6% and 8.3%. 相似文献
18.
海面有效波高(H1/3)是表征海浪的重要参数,随着卫星遥感技术的发展,雷达高度计已成为获取海面有效波高的重要手段,但也只能对卫星星下点轨迹处进行有效观测,远无法满足大范围应用的需求.本研究结合2013年10月HY-2雷达高度计观测的海面有效波高和微波散射计观测的海面风场资料,分别对高、低风速下风浪数据进行拟合,建立了适用于0~40 m/s风速范围内的南海海域风浪关系模型,经模型比对和结果验证,结果表明,基于HY-2卫星数据分析建立的南海海域风浪关系模型是可信的,特别是低风速的风浪模型与实测数据建立的风浪模型具有很好的一致性;根据建立的风浪关系模型,从卫星散射计大面观测的海面风场出发,能推算出风浪条件下海面有效波高的大面信息,数据覆盖远高于卫星高度计的星下点观测,能为分析和预报海浪、风暴潮灾害提供大范围的海面有效波高信息. 相似文献
19.
Retrieval of surface wave parameters from sar images and their validation in the coastal seas around Japan 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
We have developed a scheme to retrieve surface wave parameters (wave height and wave propagation direction) from European
Remote-Sensing Satellite (ERS) Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) image mode data in coastal seas around Japanese coastlines.
SAR spectra are converted to surface wave spectra of swell-dominated or wind-wave dominated cases. The SAR spectrum and SAR-derived
wind speed are used to derive the surface wave spectrum. The wind-wave dominated case and swell-dominated case are differentiated
by a wind speed of 6 m/s, and processed in different ways because of their different degree of nonlinearity. It is indicated
that the cutoff wavelength for retrieval of the wind-wave dominated spectrum is proportional to the root of significant wave
height, which is consistent with the results of previous studies. We generated 66 match-ups using the SAR sub-images and the
in-situ surface wave parameters, which were measured by wave gauges installed in near-shore seas. Among them, there are 57
swell-dominated cases, and 9 wind-wave dominated cases. The significant wave heights derived from SAR and from in-situ observation
agree with the bias of 0.09 m, the standard deviation of 0.61 m and the correlation coefficient of 0.78. The averaged absolute
deviation of wave propagation directions is 18.4°, and the trend of the agreement does not depend on the wave height. These
results demonstrate that the SAR surface wave spectrum retrieved by the present system can be used to observe the surface
wave field in the coastal seas around Japan. 相似文献
20.
Larry G. Ward 《Geo-Marine Letters》1985,5(1):71-75
Resuspension of bottom sediments by waves and tidal currents was investigated in three characteristic environments of middle
Chesapeake Bay (shallow platform, deep platform, and main channel). In the shallow near shore platform wind waves frequently
resuspended significant amounts of sediment, some of which was transported offshore. In both the shallow and adjacent deep
platform regions, tidal currents were too weak (<20 cm cm/sec) to resuspend bottom sediments. In the main channel, peak current
velocities were substantially stronger (40 cm/sec), but were still not competent to erode the bottom. The stability of the
bottom in this area is related to the activities of the benthic organisms which are influenced by seasonal anoxia.
University of Maryland Center for Environmental and Estuarine Studies (CEES) Contribution No. 1572. 相似文献