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1.
To relate the textural characteristics of the bottom sediments of a tidal inlet to hydrodynamics, 45 sediment samples from the Tauranga Entrance to Tauranga Harbour were analysed for textural parameters, and tidal currents and waves were monitored. Tidal currents dominate sediment transport processes near the Tauranga Entrance although swell waves are significant on the ebb tidal delta, and wind waves may influence intertidal sediments within the harbour. The bulk of the sediment is probably derived from marine sand from the Bay of Plenty continental shelf, but tidal currents and waves have changed its textural character. In areas of swift tidal currents, particularly in the inlet channel itself, sediment is coarser, more poorly sorted, and more coarsely skewed than that in areas of slower currents. 相似文献
2.
High-frequency measurements of waves, currents and water column properties were made on a fringing coral reef off northwest Maui, Hawaii, for 15 months between 2001 and 2003 to aid in understanding the processes governing flow and turbidity over a range of time scales and their contributions to annual budgets. The summer months were characterized by consistent trade winds and small waves, and under these conditions high-frequency internal bores were commonly observed, there was little net flow or turbidity over the fore reef, and over the reef flat net flow was downwind and turbidity was high. When the trade winds waned or the wind direction deviated from the dominant trade wind orientation, strong alongshore flows occurred into the typically dominant wind direction and lower turbidity was observed across the reef. During the winter, when large storm waves impacted the study area, strong offshore flows and high turbidity occurred on the reef flat and over the fore reef. Over the course of a year, trade wind conditions resulted in the greatest net transport of turbid water due to relatively strong currents, moderate overall turbidity, and their frequent occurrence. Throughout the period of study, near-surface current directions over the fore reef varied on average by more than 41° from those near the seafloor, and the orientation of the currents over the reef flat differed on average by more than 65° from those observed over the fore reef. This shear occurred over relatively short vertical (order of meters) and horizontal (order of hundreds of meters) scales, causing material distributed throughout the water column, including the particles in suspension causing the turbidity (e.g. sediment or larvae) and/or dissolved nutrients and contaminants, to be transported in different directions under constant oceanographic and meteorologic forcing. 相似文献
3.
Hee Jun Lee 《Ocean Science Journal》2010,45(3):187-195
This study briefly investigated sediment transport by tidal currents in Gomso Bay, on the mid-west coast of Korea during the summer season. Hydrodynamic measurements with benthic tripods (TISDOSs) show that near-bed suspended sediments are transported toward the bay mouth along the low-water line of tidal flats in the southern part of the bay, while they are directed offshore in front of the major tidal channel at the bay mouth according to tidal asymmetry. However, suspended sediments in the main body of sea water, observed from transect and anchor-site measurements, indicate a consistent incoming toward the uppermost tidal flats. A brief episode of relatively strong winds from the west and southeast displays that wind waves can yield the near-bed suspended sediment concentrations (SSC) overwhelming the SSC by tidal currents alone in the remaining duration. 相似文献
4.
通过对诏安湾海域6个站位的水文泥沙观测和181个表层沉积物样品的粒度分析,结合海湾水深地形,应用Gao?Collins粒径输运模型和系统聚类分析方法,分析研究了福建诏安湾海域的粒度参数分布特征、表层沉积物的运移趋势和沉积环境划分及其动力机制.结果表明,诏安湾表层沉积物共6种类型,以黏土质粉砂和砂为主,平均粒径介于0.5... 相似文献
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Field measurements were conducted in Mont-Saint-Michel Bay, a megatidal embayment (spring tidal range of 15 m), in order to monitor, over the course of a tidal cycle, sediment transport variability due to waves and tides on the upper part of a tidal flat characterised by shallow water depths. Sensors used to measure currents, water depth and turbidity were installed just above the bed (0.04 m). Two experiments were conducted under contrasting hydrodynamic conditions. The results highlight wave activity over the tidal flat even though observed wind waves were largely dissipated due to the very shallow water depths. Very high suspended sediment concentrations (up to 6 kg/m3) were recorded in the presence of wave activity at the beginning of the local flood, when significant sediment transport occurred, up to 7 times as much as under conditions of no wave activity. This influence may be attributed to the direct action of waves on bed sediments, to wave-induced liquefaction, and to the erosive action of waves on tidal channel banks. The sediment composition, comprising a clay fraction of 2-5%, may also enhance sediment transport by reducing critical shear stress through the sand lubrication effect. The results also show that antecedent meteorological conditions play an important role in suspended sediment transport on the tidal flat. Total sediment flux directions show a net transport towards the inner part of the bay that contributes to deposition over the adjacent salt marshes, and this tendency also prevails during strong wave conditions. Such sediment transport is characterised by significant variability over the course of the tidal cycle. During fair and moderate weather conditions, 83% and 71% of the total flux was observed, respectively, over only 11% and 28% of the duration of the local tidal cycle and with water depths between 0.04 and 0.3 m. These results suggest that in order to improve our understanding of sediment budgets in this type of coastal environment, it is essential to record data just at the beginning and at the end of tidal submergence close to the bed. 相似文献
7.
黄河三角洲孤东海域沉积物及水动力 总被引：7，自引：0，他引：7
根据黄河三角洲孤东近岸海域表层沉积物取样、水文泥沙观测和风浪资料推算,分析沉积物特征和运移趋势,并通过水动力条件(潮流和波浪)探讨沉积物起动和输移特征。结果表明,孤东海域沉积物多为粉砂类物质,由内向外逐渐变细,分选变差,丁坝的修建对周围粒径分布影响明显;沉积物运移趋势受风成余流、岸线轮廓和丁坝工程修建的影响,不同区域表现为不同的输移方向;研究区水动力表现为波浪掀沙、潮流输沙的特征,由于潮流较小,不足以引起泥沙的起动,泥沙起动主要由波浪引起。 相似文献
8.
依据锦州湾12个站点现场实测海流资料（1991年6月和8月二个航次）和潮流场数值模拟结果,获得了该湾潮流和余流的分布规律。并基于41个站点重矿物鉴定资料,给出了重矿物分布规律和矿物类型分区。结果表明,该湾潮流具有潮驻波特征。总的流动趋势为涨潮时从湾口南岸朝西北方向流入湾内,落潮时朝东南向流出湾外,葫芦岛—大酒篓北侧是锦州湾潮流主要通道和强流区,最大涨、落潮流流速在1kn以上。湾内余流随湾形按逆时针方向流动,湾口北部最强余流可达16cm／s。流场的强弱分布与重矿物的类型分区密切相关,经分析研究得出了重矿物与流场之间的定量分配关系。 相似文献
9.
江苏吕四海岸沉积动力特征及侵蚀过程 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
海岸侵蚀与水动力之间有着密切的关系.基于现场调查和资料收集,探讨了吕四海岸地貌、水动力、泥沙运动以及沉积与动力之间的响应.研究结果表明,风浪和潮流是塑造吕四海岸的主要动力.风浪年内变化按向岸风频率可分为高频期(10 月至翌年 1月)、转频期(2 月、3 月和 9 月)和低频期(4～8月)三个时期.风浪高频期,潮滩冲蚀,物质粗化;低频期,潮滩淤积,物质细化;转频期,时冲时淤,动态稳定.潮流作用主要表现为输沙淤滩和侧蚀滩脚.在风浪高频期,滩脚同时受到风浪冲蚀和潮流侧蚀,向岸后退,使吕四岸段成为隐性侵蚀型海岸.岸滩塑造对沉积动力响应显著,东部处于滨岸环境,在潮流和风浪的作用下,沉积物由岸向海变粗;西部还受径流影响,处于滨岸-河口环境,物质由岸向海变细.在水动力要素中,风浪是导致岸滩侵蚀的主控动力,而潮流则是近岸泥沙进行滩槽滩槽交换和循环输运的输运动力. 相似文献
10.
Li Jiufa 《海洋学报(英文版)》1991,10(1):117-127
The Nanhui tidal flat is located in the area of slow current where the ebb currents from the Changjiang Estuaryand the Hangzhou Bay converge and the flood current from the sea diverges into the estuary and the bay. The flat extends seaward in tongue shape and has a wide and gentle surface with a marked difference of tidal levels on its two sides, which results in the sediment longitudinal transport on the flat. The water-sediment conditions are diverse at different locations. The velocity and sediment concentration in intertidal zone are higher during the flood tide than those during the ebb tide. The net sediment transport is landward, resulting in a large amount of deposition of sediments on the shoal. However, the ebb current is the dominant one in deep-water area where the net sediment transport is seaward. There exist two circulation systems in plane view on the shoal and in its adjacent deep-water area, which results in the sediment exchanges between the flat and channel and between the estuary an 相似文献
11.
Christian J. Noll Timothy M. Dellapenna Andrea Gilkinson Randall W. Davis 《Geo-Marine Letters》2009,29(1):1-16
Surficial sediment distribution within Simpson Bay is a function of antecedent bedrock and recently deposited glacial geology,
as well as active physical processes both within Simpson Bay and Prince William Sound (PWS). Simpson Bay is a turbid, outwash
fjord located in northeastern PWS, Alaska. Freshwater from heavy precipitation, and the melting of high alpine glaciers enter
the bay through bay head rivers and small shoreline creeks. The catchment has a high watershed/basin surface area ratio (∼8:1),
and easily erodible bedrock that contribute to high sediment loads. The system can be divided into three discrete basins,
each with specific morphologic and circulatory characters. Side scan sonar, swath bathymetry, and seismic profiles reveal
that bathymetric highs are areas of outcropping glacial surfaces. High backscatter coupled with surface grab samples reveal
these surfaces to be composed of coarse sediment and bedrock outcrops. Bathymetric lows are areas of low backscatter, and
grab samples reveal these areas to be ponded deposits of organic-rich estuarine muds. The data provide evidence of terminal
morainal bank systems, and glacial grounding line deposits at the mouth of the bay and rocky outcrops were identified as subsurface
extensions of aerial rocky promontories. Radioisotope analyses of short cores reveal that the bay has an average accumulation
rate of approx. 0.5 cm year−1, but that this varies in function of the watershed/basin surface area ratios of the different basins. The interaction of
tidal currents and sediment source drives sediment distribution in Simpson Bay. Hydrographic data reveal high spatial variability
in surface and bottom currents throughout the bay. Subsurface currents are tide dominated, but generally weak (5–20 cm s−1), while faster currents are found along shorelines, outcrops, and bathymetric highs. Bathymetric data reveal steep slopes
with little to no modern sediment throughout the bay, suggesting lack of deposition due to tidal currents. 相似文献
12.
DOU Xiping LI Tilai DOU Guoren
Senior Engineer River Harbour Engineering Department Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute Nanjing P. R. China Senior Engineer Nanjing Institute of Hydrology Water Resourses Nanjing P. R. China
Academician Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute Nanjing P. R. China 《中国海洋工程》1999,(3)
Based on the non-equilibrium suspended load transport equation,bed load transport equationand sediment transport capacity formulas derived by Dou et al.,a 2-D numerical model of total sedimenttransport in the Yangtze Estuary is presented.In the model,the actions of tidal currents and wind waves andthe effect of salinity on sediment transport are considered.An automatically generated boundary-fitted grid isused to fit the boundaries of the estuary and the boundaries of engineering projects.The verification of calcu-lations shows that the sediment concentration,the deformation of riverbed and siltation in the channels causedby typhoons can be successfully simulated. 相似文献
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A comprehensive field study has been undertaken to investigate sediment resuspension dynamics in the Moreton Bay, a large semi-enclosed bay situated in South East Queensland, Australia. An instrumented tripod, which housed three current meters, three OBS sensors and one underwater video camera, was used to collect the field data on tides, currents, waves and suspended sediment concentrations at four sites (Sites 1, 2, 4, and 5) in the bay. Site 1 was located at the main entrance, Site 2 at the central bay in deep water, and Sites 4 and 5 at two small bays in shallow water. The bed sediment was fine sand (d50=0.2 mm) at Site 1, and cohesive sediment at the other three sites. Based on the collected field data, it is found that the dominant driving forces for sediment resuspension are a combination of ocean swell and tidal currents at Site 1, tidal currents at Site 2, and wind-waves at Sites 4 and 5. The critical bed shear stress for cohesive sediment resuspension is determined as 0.079 Pa in unidirectional flow at Site 2, and 0.076 Pa in wave-induced oscillatory flow at Site 5. 相似文献
16.
An artificial sand wave on the Dutch shoreface of the North Sea has been studied in conditions with relatively strong tidal currents in the range of 0.5 to 1 m/s and sediments in the medium sand size range of 0.2 to 0.5 mm. The sand wave is perpendicular to the tidal current and has a maximum height and length of the order of 5 m and 1 km, respectively. The sand wave is dynamically active and shows migration rates of the order of a few metres per year. A numerical morphodynamic model (DELFT3D model) has been used to simulate the morphological behaviour of the sand wave in the North Sea. This model approach is based on the numerical solution of the three-dimensional shallow water equations in combination with a surface wave propagation model (wind waves) and the advection–diffusion equation for the sediment particles with online bed updating after each time step. The model results show that the sand wave grows in the case of dominant bed-load transport (weak tidal currents; relatively coarse sediment; small roughness height; low waves) and that the sand wave decays in the case of dominant suspended transport (strong currents, relatively fine sediment, large roughness height; storm waves). 相似文献
17.
Eric Wolanski David Williams Simon Spagnol Hubert Chanson 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2004,60(4):629-636
Measurements in the macro-tidal Daly Estuary show that the presence of an undular tidal bore contributed negligibly to the dissipation of tidal energy. No recirculation bubble was observed between a trough and the following wave crest in the lee waves following the undular bore. This differs to stationary undular bores in laboratory experiments at larger Froude numbers where a recirculation bubble exists. Secondary motions and the turbulence generated by the undular bore had no measurable influence on the sediment transport. This situation contrasts with the intense sediment resuspension observed in breaking tidal bores. The tidally averaged sediment budget in the Daly Estuary was controlled by the asymmetry of tidal currents. The undular bore may widen the river by breaking along the banks that it undercuts, leading to bank slippage. A patch of river-wide macro-turbulence of 3-min duration occurred about 20 min after the passage of the bore during accelerating tidal currents. 相似文献
18.
Takaki Hatayama 《Journal of Oceanography》2004,60(3):569-585
Numerical experiments with two-dimensional nonhydrostatic model have been performed to investigate tidally generated internal
waves at the Dewakang sill at the southern Makassar Strait where two large-amplitude “bumps” of relatively shallow water exist.
We investigate the effect of these features on vertical mixing, with emphasis on the transformation of the Indonesian throughflow
(ITF) water properties. The result shows that large-amplitude internal waves are generated at both bumps by the predominant
M2 tidal flow, even though the condition of the critical Froude number and the critical slope are not satisfied. The internal
waves induce such vigorous vertical mixing in the sill region that the vertical diffusivity attains a maximum value of 6 ×
10−3 m2s−1 and the salinity maximum and minimum core layers characterizing the ITF thermocline water are considerably weakened. Close
examination reveals that bottom-intensified currents produced mainly by the joint effect of barotropic M2 flow and internal tides generated in the concave region surrounding both bumps can excite unsteady lee waves (Nakamura et al., 2000) on the inside slopes of the bumps, which tend to be trapped at the generation region and grow into large-amplitude
waves. Such generation of unsteady lee waves does not occur in case of one bump alone. Trapping and amplification of the waves
in the sill region induce large vertical displacements (∼60 m) of water parcels during one tidal period, leading to strong
vertical mixing there. Since the K1 tidal currents are relatively weak, large-amplitude internal waves causing intense vertical mixing are not generated.
This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date. 相似文献
19.
兴化湾的潮流研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
位于兴化湾内的江阴港是福州首要发展的新港，目前正准备扩建泊位，因此了解兴化湾的潮流特征有着重要意义。此前对兴化湾的潮流模拟都是采用二维不规则三角形网格，且重点分析2个水道区的潮流特征，缺乏对整个兴化湾流场的把握。而本文则通过三维ECOMSED模式，采用更为精细的网格对兴化湾的潮流特征进行模拟。通过模拟结果和实测值的比较，发现模拟结果较好，可以准确地分析兴化湾的潮流特征。分析发现，该海域的流主要为往复流，具有驻波性质；余流场中存在2对因地形作用而产生的气旋和反气旋涡旋；同时发现垂直湍粘滞系数在垂向上为抛物线型分布，而在时间上具有周期性变化，且与流速变化有很好的对应关系。 相似文献
20.
A.J.F. Hoitink 《Marine Geology》2004,208(1):13-31
The Bay of Banten, West Java, Indonesia represents a shallow coastal embayment harboring coral reefs subject to extremely turbid conditions. The sedimentary regime and flow structure of two contrasting coral reef islands in the embayment were investigated to identify the mechanisms responsible for mean and peak levels of suspended sediment concentration (SSC) around the reefs. Arrays of in situ calibrated optical backscatter (OBS) sensors were deployed across the reef slopes. Far field conditions were simultaneously monitored using an acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) and a conductivity temperature and depth (CTD) probe, equipped with an OBS sensor. In addition, hydrographic surveys were conducted using the ADCP attached to a small fishing boat, navigating transects perpendicular to the reef islands. The direct influence of river plumes was found to be insignificant. Waves act only in the uppermost few meters of the reef slopes, where coral growth is most abundant and little sediment is available for resuspension. Tidal currents are the primary cause of high turbidity, which was inferred from peaks in the diurnal and semidiurnal frequency bands of SSC spectra, and the large depths where the turbidity variation sometimes initiates. The entrained sediment disperses upward across the reef slopes, which is likely due to a secondary current associated with bending of the flow along the curved, hydraulically rough reef slopes, in weakly stratified ambient waters. Changes in sediment availability, variable critical shear stresses for erosion and deposition, and the formation and evanescence of island wakes may explain the high variability of SSC at the reef slopes. 相似文献