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1.
裂流是沿海地区频发的一种高速离岸流。根据Castelle的裂流分类模型对广东省14个海滩的Google Earth影像进行了解译分类,对裂流分类模型在遥感影像中的应用进行了探讨。结果表明:在高风险月份,海滩裂流的组成较为单一,混合型裂流少,水深控制的裂流占据主导地位,裂流数量总体维持在较高水平;在中风险月份,水动力控制的裂流和混合型裂流的比例增加,水深控制的裂流仍然占有一定比例;在低风险月份,裂流很少出现,甚至无裂流发生。裂流的类型与海滩的状态密切相关。对于海湾中的海滩,海湾长度影响裂流的数量,海湾凹入度影响不同类型裂流的组成比例。考虑到实验条件的限制,这一规律需要后续结合实际地形地貌进行更细致和深入的研究和验证。按照本文解译标准得出的分类结果,与前人提出的裂流风险性评价模型吻合度较高,进一步说明了该解译标准的有效性,为今后对海滩裂流的研究和分类工作提供了一定的参考。 相似文献
2.
弧形海岸裂流的数值模拟研究 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
弧形海岸波浪产生的裂流严重危害人类活动，但是目前对其特征缺乏充分认识。本文对Haller物理模型实验和三亚大东海的数值模拟表明FUNWAVE模式具有较好的裂流模拟能力。基于该模式进行了多种弧形海岸条件的裂流数值模拟，给出裂流的一些特征：（1）海岸弯曲度增大，裂流增强；（2）海岸坡度对裂流有比较大的影响，太陡或太平缓的海岸不利于形成裂流；（3）海岸尺寸减小，裂流减弱；（4）波高和波周期增大，裂流增强，但是对于某些海岸而言，0.4m波高可能就存在危害比较大的裂流。 相似文献
3.
Dune erosion is shown to occur at the embayment of beach mega-cusps O(200 m alongshore) that are associated with rip currents. The beach is the narrowest at the embayment of the mega-cusps allowing the swash of large storm waves coincident with high tides to reach the toe of the dune, to undercut the dune and to cause dune erosion. Field measurements of dune, beach, and rip current morphology are acquired along an 18 km shoreline in southern Monterey Bay, California. This section of the bay consists of a sandy shoreline backed by extensive dunes, rising to heights exceeding 40 m. There is a large increase in wave height going from small wave heights in the shadow of a headland, to the center of the bay where convergence of waves owing to refraction over the Monterey Bay submarine canyon results in larger wave heights. The large alongshore gradient in wave height results in a concomitant alongshore gradient in morphodynamic scale. The strongly refracted waves and narrow bay aperture result in near normal wave incidence, resulting in well-developed, persistent rip currents along the entire shoreline.
The alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline are found significantly correlated with the alongshore variations in rip spacing at 95% confidence. The alongshore variations of the volume of dune erosion are found significantly correlated with alongshore variations of the cuspate shoreline at 95% confidence. Therefore, it is concluded the mega-cusps are associated with rip currents and that the location of dune erosion is associated with the embayment of the mega-cusp. 相似文献
4.
A field experiment on the nature of rip currents was conducted on the Dutch coast, which differs from previous rip current study sites because it is a wind-sea dominated environment with mostly obliquely incident waves and tidally-driven longshore currents. During the experiment three distinct flow patterns, obtained with GPS tracked drifter instruments, were observed: (1) a locally governed circulation cell, (2) an offshore current that is deflected shore parallel outside the surf zone and (3) a meandering longshore current. The transition from rip currents (flow patterns 1 and 2) to meandering longshore currents (flow pattern 3) occurred gradually within the tidal cycle with longshore currents prevalent at mid to high tide. Rip currents at this site appeared at depressions in the surf zone bar and typically occurred when the water level fell below NAP (equivalent to MSL), even in the presence of obliquely incident waves and tidally driven longshore currents. Hindcast simulations of the drifter experiments were performed with the numerical model XBeach and showed good agreement with field observations. The model was subsequently used to investigate the influence of tidal water level fluctuations, longshore currents and obliquely incident waves on rip currents.Rip currents were initiated when the water level dropped below a specific threshold with the magnitude of the rip current associated with the water level. The strength of the tidal current and its orientation with respect to the incident waves governed the offshore extent and orientation of the rip current. In contrast to other studies that suggest that rip currents solely occur under shore normal (or slightly oblique waves), in this study both observations and numerical model simulations indicate that rip currents can exist under large angles of wave incidence, when the rip channel is sufficiently wide and the wave height is small. 相似文献
5.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(5-6):419-439
The flow on a plane beach with a random, directionally spread wave field was simulated with a Boussinesq model. The random wave spectra were directionally symmetric with their central direction perpendicular to the beach, so no constant longshore current was generated. Variable wave-averaged currents were generated because of the spatially variable wave field, and sometimes formed offshore directed rip currents that appear in variable longshore locations. The rip currents are associated with a vortex pair which is generated within the surfzone and subsequently propagates offshore. Analysis of the vorticity balance show that the main vorticity input occurs within the inner surfzone. Three different beach slopes and four different wave spectra are simulated. The frequency, duration, and intensity of the transient rips depend on both the beach slope and the incident wave spectra. The results have important engineering implications for the transport of material in the nearshore zone, in particular on longshore uniform beaches. 相似文献
6.
华南休闲海滩沙坝触发的裂流风险及特征研究 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
为应对频发的致命性海滩溺水事故，自然资源部开展了我国首次滨海旅游区裂流灾害技术调查，在华南地区发现大量滨海休闲海滩存在浅滩沙坝和裂流现象。作为全国调查的部分成果，本文应用多种方法研究了广东省3个热门海滩沙坝触发的裂流机理、特征和演变规律。地形动力计算和卫星影像显示了沙坝形态、岸线形状以及裂流的高度动态性，尤其在青澳湾裂流呈现非常规的反季节变化，冬季风险较高而夏季风险较低。在相位解析水动力数值模拟中，裂流表现出对沙坝形态、浪高、浪向的高度敏感性。沙坝间较宽间隙会产生尺寸较大的裂流区，但比起窄沟槽不一定伴随更强的流速。当大部分水流集中从邻近的较宽通道回流入海时，部分窄沟槽几乎没有裂流产生。裂流流速与浪高成正比与入射角成反比。数值模拟结果表明，当入射角达到10°～30°时，沿岸流会取代离岸流占主导地位。现场调查也验证了在低潮时，较浅的水深会放大水流和波浪的地形效应，导致裂流风险加剧。本文研究结果可为滨海旅游区裂流灾害的工程减缓措施和公共警示提供有益参考。未来将会持续开展针对特定岸线的长期观测，以为裂流预警报和风险管控积累足够的统计数据。 相似文献
7.
离岸流是近岸流的重要组成部分,当波浪受到特殊海滩地形的影响,会形成一股沿着离岸方向运动的高速水流,能够迅速将人带离海岸,对海滨安全造成威胁。为了深入探究离岸流的形成机理及水动力学特性,本文基于二阶Stokes波浪理论,采用了更为光滑的变截面沙坝模型,通过流体体积法捕捉自由液面,对离岸流进行三维数值模拟探究。本文重点分析了离岸流产生时流场的瞬时速度、时均速度、压强等不同参量的分布规律,结果显示在沙坝和海岸线之间,有一对方向相反的水循环体系;对比不同流层离岸流的速度,了解到波浪与离岸流的耦合作用;并探究了入射波波高对离岸流强度及分布区域的影响,深化了对离岸流水动力学过程的认识。 相似文献
8.
9.
为提高海水浴场的安全性,避免发生溺水事故,文章以潮汐汊道及其沙滩的动力地貌结构和发育演变为基础,研究青岛市灵山湾城市阳台海水浴场沙滩的安全风险和动力机制,并提出风险防范建议。研究结果表明:河口潮汐汊道落潮流三角洲的潮汐水道延伸至沙滩滩面,高潮时淹没,落急时水流集中,形成流向外海的高速水流,极易引发海水浴场安全事故;区域落潮流与汊道落潮流相叠加、落潮流三角洲阻挡沿岸输沙造成下游局部岸段侵蚀以及沿岸输沙变化导致水道迁移摆动等因素进一步加大潮汐汊道附近沙滩的安全风险;安全风险最大的地点位于沿岸输沙下游与区域落潮流流向一致的潮汐水道末端附近沙滩,且该位置不稳定,随波浪场发生年际和季节变化;在潮汐汊道沙滩岸段设置海水浴场前应研究其动力地貌和发育演变,划分危险区和安全区,浴场设置后定期监测并确定危险区的位置,并在沙滩安全维护和质量评价等方面将潮汐汊道作为重要判定指标。 相似文献
10.
An offshore shoal or bar refracts ocean surface waves and causes wave focusing/defocusing on the adjacent beach.Wave focal patterns characterized by alongshore variations in wave height, wave angle, and breaking location induce alongshore non-uniformities of wave setup and nearshore circulation, e.g., rip currents and alongshore currents, in the surfzone. A simplified analytic model for nearshore circulation generated by focused/defocused waves on a planar beach is developed and theoretical solutions are obtained using transport stream function and perturbations in alongshore distributions of wave height and wave angle at the breaker line. The analytic model suggests that alongshore currents are strongly affected by a pair of counter-rotating vortices generated shoreward of the wave focal zone. The vortices are persistent, and their strengths depend on the amplitudes of alongshore variations in wave height and wave angle. The alongshore gradient in wave height tends to intensify the vortices while the convergence of wave angle tends to weaken the vortices. Divergent flows associated with the vortices in the surfzone are intense,strengthening alongshore currents in the downstream of the wave focal zone and weakening alongshore currents or causing flows reversal in the upstream. Alongshore currents are modulated by rip currents associated with the wave focusing/defocusing patterns. 相似文献
11.
裂流发生迅速,发生位置隐秘,发生范围相对较小,发生时海浪大、流速快,这些特点给裂流观测带来困难。本文以威海国际海水浴场为研究对象,通过水深地形测量、海浪海流观测及高空摄影等多种观测方式相结合,尝试采用可行且易于实现的方法对裂流易发区域进行定位,在此基础上对该海域裂流类型和产生原因进行分析,并进一步进行威海国际海水浴场裂流区划。研究表明:威海国际海水浴场水下地形较为复杂,离岸200 m范围内存在5个沙丘-沟槽结构,沟槽和东侧栈桥前沿是裂流危险区,分属海滩型裂流和边界型裂流,裂流流速在0.5~1 m/s之间,观测期间裂流平均风险等级为中等。本研究可为裂流观测和海水浴场管理提供一定的参考。 相似文献
12.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(2-3):191-208
Rip currents are shore-normal, narrow, seaward-flowing currents that originate within surf zone, extend seaward of the breaking region (rip head), and can obtain relatively high velocities. Within the last decade, there have been a significant number of laboratory and field observations within rip current systems. An overview of rip current kinematics based on these observations and the scientific advances obtained from these efforts are synthesized. Rip current flows are partitioned into mean, infragravity, very low frequency (vorticity), and tidal contributions, and it is found that each contributes significantly to the total. Data from the laboratory and the field suggest that the rip current strength increases with increasing wave energy and decreasing water depths. The maximum mean current occurs inside the surf zone, where the maximum forcing is present owing to the dissipation of waves. 相似文献
13.
A morphological quasi-three-dimensional (Q3D) area model for barred coasts has been developed. The model combines a two-dimensional depth integrated model for wave-driven currents with a model for undertow circulation currents. The combined model makes a simultaneous simulation of the bar-forming processes associated with the undertow and the horizontal wave-driven circulation currents, which may cause instabilities of the bar and the formation of rip channels. Situations with normal and oblique wave incidence are considered. Compared to the depth integrated approach the Q3D model produces less pronounced alongshore irregularities for obliquely incident waves. For normal incident waves the Q3D model produces a crescentic bar while the depth integrated model predicts almost straight sections of the bar interrupted by rip channels. The sensitivity to variation of wave angle and beach slope is further investigated. 相似文献
14.
基于海滩地形动力学、遥感影像的风险预识别以及现场排查等方法,对西涌滨海旅游区海滩裂流风险进行了初步评估。评估结果表明:地形动力分析结果显示,西涌滨海旅游区泳场逐月平均沙滩类型大部分是沿岸沙坝和裂流沟槽交替的沙坝型(B),风险等级高;影像特征判断该沙滩属于沿岸沙坝和裂流沟槽交替的沙坝型(B)或者低潮位附近伴有冲流沙坝及裂流沟槽的低潮沙坝裂流型(LTBR),裂流风险等级高;历史影像和现场调研均发现该海滩发生过裂流;综合判定该海滩裂流风险等级为高。但鉴于观测资料限制和评价方法自身局限性的影响,本次排查结论仅为初步结论,其合理性尚需更加深入的研究。 相似文献
15.
The generation of tidal asymmetries is clarified via numerical integration of the one-dimensional equations for channel geometries characteristic of shallow estuaries. Channels without tidal flats develop a time asymmetry characterized by a longer falling than rising tide. This behavior is enhanced by strong friction and large channel cross-sectional area variability over a tidal cycle. Resulting tidal currents have a shorter, intense flood and a longer, weak ebb (flood-dominant). Addition of tidal flats to the channels can produce a longer rising tide and stronger ebb currents (ebb-dominant), if the area of tidal flats is large enough to overcome the effects of time-variable channel geometry. Weaker friction with flats can also produce this asymmetry.Despite the physical complexity of these systems, essential features of estuarine tidal response can be recovered from one-dimensional models. Shallow estuaries are shown to have a system response leading to stable, uniform senses of tidal asymmetry (either flood- or ebb-dominated, due to phase-locking of forced tidal constituents), with down-channel development in magnitude of asymmetry. These concepts are illustrated by modeling idealized representations of tidal channels at Nauset Inlet, MA, and Wachapreague Inlet, VA, which have flood- and ebb-dominance, respectively. 相似文献
16.
《Marine Geology》2007,236(1-2):45-59
Titanomagnetite forms rich placer deposits along the northwest coast of New Zealand. These deposits were sampled along 3 shore-normal transects spaced over the southern 2 km of a dissipative high-energy beach on the west coast in 5 field campaigns covering one year. The percentage of opaque minerals (mainly titanomagnetite) was extremely high in the upper 30 m of the beach face, extending seaward where these opaque minerals were gradually replaced with variable amounts of lighter augite, hornblende and plagioclase. The pattern appeared to be divided into two regions, a lower seaward and an upper landward region, separated by a point where either marine dominated over aeolian processes or where swash dominated over breaking processes. In the seaward region, the percentage of opaques increased and particle size fined landward as undertow removed the lighter larger particles seaward. In the landward region, the percentage of opaques and particle size were more constant, or even showed the reverse pattern as wind transported the lighter material shoreward, or swash asymmetry transported the heavier material seaward. The similarity of settling velocities over the whole beach face suggests that sorting by size rather than weight plays a dominant role in separating the mineral assemblages. Considerable variations existed between transects. This could be explained by the spatial changes in surfzone waves and currents that were associated with proximity to the southern headland and various rip current channels that characterised this dissipative site. Surprisingly, the percentage of opaques decreased when the wave conditions of the day of sampling were more energetic. In contrast to many other placer deposits, these deposits are abundant on the beach face, forming an armouring layer during lower wave energy conditions. During higher wave conditions, the surface layer erodes allowing lighter augite, plagioclase and hornblende to be released from the sediments below. 相似文献
17.
By coupling the three-dimensional hydrodynamic model with the wave model, numerical simulations of the three-dimensional wave-induced current are carried out in this study. The wave model is based on the numerical solution of the modified wave action equation and eikonal equation, which can describe the wave refraction and diffraction. The hydrodynamic model is driven by the wave-induced radiation stresses and affected by the wave turbulence. The numerical implementation of the module has used the finite-volume schemes on unstructured grid, which provides great flexibility for modeling the waves and currents in the complex actual nearshore, and ensures the conservation of energy propagation. The applicability of the proposed model is evaluated in calculating the cases of wave set-up, longshore currents, undertow on a sloping beach, rip currents and meandering longshore currents on a tri-cuspate beach. The results indicate that it is necessary to introduce the depth-dependent radiation stresses into the numerical simulation of wave-induced currents, and comparisons show that the present model makes better prediction on the wave procedure as well as both horizontal and vertical structures in the wave-induced current field. 相似文献
18.
Karl F. Nordstrom 《Marine Geology》1977,25(4):333-342
The purpose of this paper is to compare the differences between oceanside and bayside beaches. Field data on twelve beach process and response variables were gathered from February 1972 to April 1973 on four sample beaches at Sandy Hook Spit, New Jersey. Linear correlation is used to identify the most influential process variables and determine how the interrelationships among variables differ on each beach. The analysis confirms the importance of breaker height, wave steepness and wind direction on beach response. The correlation of beach processes with their associated responses are higher on the oceanside than on the bayside beaches, indicating that local, non-storm waves may be relatively insignificant in effecting substantial beach modification.Despite the greater magnitude of processes and beach change on the oceanside sites, erosion was more persistent on the bayside during the period of study. The frequent occurrence of short, steep erosional waves on the bayside prevented onshore movement of sediment between storms, resulting in a permanent loss of material from the beach face and dune. On the oceanside, long, low, depositional waves occurring between storms replenished most of the material carried away during the storm. This fresh beach material acted as a buffer against the erosion of the dunes during the following storm.The dominant bay waves are locally generated and may therefore be simulated using meteorological variables. However, the low wave energies on the bayside sites result in an increase in the relative importance of tidal currents, wind-induced currents, and refracted ocean swell. These factors complicate the application of simplified wave process—beach response models to the study of beaches exposed to these effects. 相似文献
19.
Hee Jun Lee 《Ocean Science Journal》2010,45(3):187-195
This study briefly investigated sediment transport by tidal currents in Gomso Bay, on the mid-west coast of Korea during the summer season. Hydrodynamic measurements with benthic tripods (TISDOSs) show that near-bed suspended sediments are transported toward the bay mouth along the low-water line of tidal flats in the southern part of the bay, while they are directed offshore in front of the major tidal channel at the bay mouth according to tidal asymmetry. However, suspended sediments in the main body of sea water, observed from transect and anchor-site measurements, indicate a consistent incoming toward the uppermost tidal flats. A brief episode of relatively strong winds from the west and southeast displays that wind waves can yield the near-bed suspended sediment concentrations (SSC) overwhelming the SSC by tidal currents alone in the remaining duration. 相似文献
20.
Shiho Kobayashi Eisuke Hashimoto Masayuki Nagao Yoshio Takasugi 《Journal of Oceanography》2009,65(5):657-664
We observed tidal currents, turbulent energy dissipation and water column stratification at the entrance of a narrow strait
(Neko Seto) in the Seto Inland Sea, Japan, using a free-falling turbulent microstructure profiler (TurboMAP) and acoustic
Doppler current profiler (ADCP). The variation in turbulent energy dissipation at the entrance of the strait was not at quarter-diurnal
frequency but at semi-diurnal frequency; turbulent energy dissipation was enhanced during the ebb tide, although it was moderate
during the flood tide. This result is consistent with the results of Takasugi (1993), which showed the asymmetry of tidal
energy loss during a semidiurnal tidal cycle using control volume analysis. It is suggested that significant turbulent energy
dissipation is generated in the strait, which influences the properties of water outside the strait when tidal currents flow
out from the strait. 相似文献