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1.
This study was conducted to relate the cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport and grain size characteristics to cross-shore and longshore current velocities on a sandy low-energy beach in a non-tidal embayment of the Baltic Sea. Simultaneous measurements of current velocities and amount of sand caught in streamer traps were made on 31 sampling runs on 6 d in April 1999 at three fixed sites including the swash zone on the upper foreshore, the lower foreshore, and the crest of the most landward of four bars. Spilling waves broke frequently on the bar but rarely on the lower foreshore, even during onshore wind speeds up to 11.0 m s−1. Waves always broke as plunging waves at the step at the base of the upper foreshore and were converted directly into swash. The greatest longshore current velocities in the swash occurred when wind speeds and water levels were greatest, but wind direction was nearly directly onshore. Longshore velocities were greater in the swash zone than at other sites except when relatively strong winds blew nearly parallel to the shoreline, causing a pronounced wind-induced current at the other two sites. Calculated longshore shear stress and rate of sediment trapped were highly correlated on the bar (r=0.90), less highly correlated in the swash zone, and least highly correlated (r=0.66) on the lower foreshore. Mean trapping rates in the swash were 14.6 times greater than on the lower foreshore and 7.2 times greater than on the bar. Greater trapping rates in the swash are attributed to the greater turbulence mobilizing sediments in the uprush and backwash. Little of the finer-grained sediment on the offshore sites was reworked under low energy conditions. The study reveals the dominance of swash transport on steep, reflective, low-energy beaches where wave energy dissipation takes place over small distances on the upper foreshore.  相似文献   

2.
Cross‐shore grading of sediment has been observed on the surface of estuarine beaches but the swash zone processes responsible for this grading have not been measured. This study was conducted to provide an explanation for the cross‐shore grading of sediment on a predominantly sandy estuarine foreshore. Data on wave and swash characteristics and sediment trapped in the uprush and backwash during 25 swash events were gathered from mid‐rising to mid‐falling tide on a small transgressive barrier in Delaware Bay, New Jersey, USA. Sediment is predominantly quartz and feldspar, medium to coarse sands with a gravel fraction of granules and pebbles. Wave energies increased with tidal rise. The percentage of gravel in transport in the uprush and backwash is similar (11% and 13%) during the rising tide when the swash zone is at mid‐foreshore, decreases in the uprush (9%) and increases in the backwash (18%) when the swash zone is on the upper foreshore. When the swash zone is at mid‐foreshore on the falling tide, the quantity of gravel in the backwash (30%) is greater than in the uprush (24%). The low proportion of gravel within the foreshore prior to trapping, and the increase in the percentage of gravel when the waves and swash are on the upper foreshore, suggests that the step is the primary source of gravel high on the foreshore. The size of the step increases as wave heights increase with tidal rise. The rate of delivery of gravel into the swash is enhanced by sediment entrained during wave breaking and interaction of the uprush with the previous backwash. The lag in the rate of step migration relative to breaker migration during the falling tide increases the likelihood of mining gravel from the step and subsequent transport in the uprush and backwash. These findings are important for low energy estuarine beaches sensitive to small changes in tidal range and wave energy that cause sedimentological change across the foreshore.  相似文献   

3.
Concern for the status of horseshoe crab (Limulus polyphemus) has increased as harvest for conch and eel bait has increased and spawning habitat has decreased. In early 1999 a workshop was held at the behest of the Atlantic States Marine Fisheries Commission to design a statistically valid survey of horseshoe crab spawning in Delaware Bay. The survey that resulted was a redesign of a volunteer-based spawning survey that began in 1990, and its network of volunteers was relied on to implement the three-stage sampling design in 1999. During May and June of 1999, 163 participants surveyed during the highest of the daily high tides on 16 beaches (8 on each site of Delaware Bay). During the first half of the spawning season, spawning was associated with lunar phases, but moderated by wave height. Disproportionately more spawning occurred within 3 d of the first new and full moons, and spawning activity (measured by an index of female density) was correlated inversely to the percent of beaches with waves ≥0.3 m. Spawning was heaviest on the Delaware shore around the full moon in May in spite of low waves in New Jersey during the new and full moons in May. Number of beaches sampled was the most important factor in determining the precision of the spawning index and power to detect a decline. Explicit consideration of statistical power has been absent from the current debate on horseshoe crab status and harvest. Those who argue against harvest restrictions because of a lack of statistically significant declines take on a burden to show that the surveys they cite have high statistical power. We show the Delaware Bay spawning survey will achieve high statistical power with sufficient sampling intensity and duration. We recommend that future Delaware Bay spawning surveys sample on 3 d around each new and full moon in May and June and increase the number of beaches to ensure high statistical power to detect trends in baywide spawning activity.  相似文献   

4.
Spawning densities, spawning indices, egg densities, size distributions, and movement patterns of horseshoe crabs (Limulus polyphemus) were quantified for four coastal embayments (Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge, Pleasant Bay, Nauset Estuary, and Cape Cod Bay) on Cape Cod, Massachusetts from 2000 to 2002. Spawning activity was highest from mid May through mid June, but densities varied throughout the Cape Cod region. Average spawning densities (male and female crabs combined), measured using 25-m2 quadrats, were lower than 1 crab 25 m?2, although certain locations had consistently higher densities averaging 2 to 3 crabs 25 m?2 with individual survey densities recorded as high as 17 crabs 25 m?2. Spawning densities during night surveys were either similar or slightly higher than day surveys, except at a few sites within Pleasant Bay. Spawning indices were considerably lower ranging from 0 to 1.3 females 25 m?2 throughout the Cape Cod region. Spawning sex ratios varied from 1∶1.6 to 1∶3.1 (females:males) throughout the region, except within Pleasant Bay where highly male skewed ratios were observed (e.g., 1∶5.8, 3-yr average). Egg densities were low overall (<1 egg cm?2) throughout Cape Cod and egg densities tended to be higher in deeper sediments (5–20 cm deep) compared to shallow sediments (0–5 cm deep) at most locations. Over 7,800 horseshoe crabs were tagged on Cape Cod from 2000 to 2002. Average size and size frequency distributions of tagged crabs varied among regions. Larger individuals were observed at Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge while the smallest individuals were from Cape Cod Bay. We documented an overall recapture rate of 6.7% and our tag-recapture data indicated that 62% of crabs were recaptured at the original tagging location and 70% of recaptures traveled less than 2 km from the original tagging location, providing evidence for localized populations on Cape Cod. We have observed that horseshoe crabs differ among embayments within a regional area, suggesting the potential need for management plans specific to embayments or subregions depending on the characteristics of a population.  相似文献   

5.
The Great Bay Estuary, New Hampshire, USA is near the northern distribution limit of the American horseshoe crab (Limulus polyphemus). This estuary has few ideal beaches for spawning, yet it supports a modest population of horseshoe crabs. There is no organized monitoring program in the Great Bay Estuary, so it is unclear when and where spawning occurs. In this 2-year study (May through June, 2012 and 2013), >5,000 adult horseshoe crabs were counted at four sites in the estuary. The greatest densities of horseshoe crabs were observed at Great Bay sites in the upper, warmer reaches of the estuary. Peaks of spawning activity were not strongly correlated with the times of the new or full moons, and similar numbers of horseshoe crabs were observed mating during daytime and nighttime high tides. While many environmental factors are likely to influence the temporal and spatial patterns of spawning in this estuary, temperature appears to have the most profound impact.  相似文献   

6.
The mechanisms of berm development along a microtidal-high energy beach is examined. Such a beach with medium-sized sand and monsoon wave-controlled profile at Valiathura, south-west coast of India, is selected for this study. The waves which very rarely fall below 1 m, often exceed 4 m during the monsoon period of May to October. The erosion-accretion pattern of the beach shows a cyclicity and the berm development is mainly due to the onshore migration and welding of longshore bars on to the beach following the monsoon rough season. The stages of berm development in the present microtidal beach are more or less similar to the model presented by Hine for a mesotidal case, except for the following intermediate additional stages. The longshore bar develops due to the erosion of beach when the wave steepness was above 0·04, gets flattened when it falls below 0·04, and then reforms nearer to the shoreline as a swash bar. This reformed bar gets divided and the inner bar gets welded on to the beach, followed by the outer bar developing the berm. During the onshore migration of the longshore bar and berm development the beach face becomes partially reflective with the surf scaling parameter, εb between 2·5 and 33. The inshore is dissipative with the inshore surf scaling parameter, εs?33. The offshore side of the longshore bar is partially reflective with its surf scaling parameter, εbar between 2·5 and 33. The breakers are spilling or plunging. Vertical growth of the berm is mainly due to the changes in swash-limit caused by the variations in wave steepness, breaker height and type. Vertical growth stops when the beach-face attains equilibrium with the grain size-wave energy relationship, and a wave steepness below 0·02 helps to sustain this state.  相似文献   

7.
Restoration of horseshoe crab spawning habitats through beach nourishment may be considered as a potential strategy to enhance reproductive success in areas where estuarine beaches have been lost to coastal erosion and development. The US Army Corps of Engineers performed a beach nourishment project at Plumb Beach (Jamaica Bay, Brooklyn, NY) in 2012 to stabilize the shoreline. While the addition of sand was done to protect infrastructure, it created an opportunity to examine the responses of American horseshoe crabs (Limulus polyphemus) to beach nourishment using a BACI (before-after control impact) design. During Spring 2012, before beach nourishment, horseshoe crabs made minimal use of the highly degraded western section of Plumb Beach in comparison to a nearby reference site, as quantified by numbers of spawning adults at high tide and densities of horseshoe crab eggs in core samples. In the first post-nourishment field season (Spring 2013), there was no detectable increase in horseshoe crab spawning activity on the newly restored beach. In 2014 and 2015, the density of spawning females began to increase at the nourished beach, although their numbers and especially the density of horseshoe crab eggs remained much lower than at the reference site. Three years after beach nourishment, differences in sediments texture (mean grain diameter, percent gravel, sorting, skewness, and hardness) were still evident between the nourishment and reference sites. Our results suggest that (1) at this site, beach nourishment appeared to bring about only slow increases in horseshoe crab spawning density after several seasons and (2) subtle differences in beach geomorphology over relatively short distances can be detected by horseshoe crabs and may underlie their selection of specific nesting sites.  相似文献   

8.
The distribution, abundance, and dispersal patterns of horseshoe crab (Limulus polyphemus) trilobite larvae were determined from 671 plankton tows taken near a spawning beach in lower Delaware Bay, New Jersey, in 1998 and 1999. In both years, peaks in larval abundance occurred during periods of rough surf (>30 cm wave heights). Planktonic larvae were significantly more abundant nocturnally than during the day, but there was no evidence of a lunar component to larval abundance. Larvae were strongly concentrated inshore; trilobites were 10–100 times more abundant in the immediate vicinity of the shoreline than they were 100–200 m offshore. The strong tendency ofLimulus larvae to remain close to the beach suggests that their capability for long-range dispersal between estuaries is extremely limited. We suggest that limited larval dispersal potential may help explain previously observed patterns of genetic variation among the Mid-Atlantic horseshoe crab populations.  相似文献   

9.
We assessed the suitability of intertidal habitats for spawning by horseshoe crabs (Limulus polyphemus) at 12 proposed restoration sites identified by the United States Army Corps of Engineers along the shore of Jamaica Bay, a highly developed estuary in New York City. Based on beach geomorphology, we chose to quantify horseshoe crab activity at five of the sites during the May–July 2000 breeding season. Horseshoe crabs spawned intensively on small patches of suitable sand within larger areas of eroding shoreline with bulkheads and rubble fill. Small areas of sand behind grounded barges at Brant Point and Dubos Point had densities of over 100,000 eggs m−2, which was equal to or greater than the egg densities on longer, more natural appearing beaches at Spring Creek and Dead Horse Bay, or at a sand spit at Bayswater State Park. There were no significant differences in the percentage of Jamaica Bay horseshoe crab eggs that completed development when cultured using water from Jamaica Bay or lower Delaware Bay, a less polluted location. Only 1% of the embryos from Jamaica Bay exhibited developmental anomalies, a frequency comparable to a previously studied population from Delaware Bay. We suggest that the distribution and abundance of horseshoe crabs at our study areas in Jamaica Bay is presently limited by the availability of suitable shoreline for breeding, rather than by water quality. Restoration efforts that increase the amount of sandy beach in this urban estuary have a good likelihood of benefiting horseshoe crabs and providing additional value to migrating shorebirds that use horseshoe crab eggs as food.  相似文献   

10.
《Sedimentology》2018,65(3):721-744
Storm surges generated by tropical cyclones have been considered a primary process for building coarse‐sand beach ridges along the north‐eastern Queensland coast, Australia. This interpretation has led to the development of palaeotempestology based on the beach ridges. To better identify the sedimentary processes responsible for these ridges, a high‐resolution chronostratigraphic analysis of a series of ridges was carried out at Cowley Beach, Queensland, a meso‐tidal beach system with a >3 m tide range. Optically stimulated luminescence ages indicate that 10 ridges accreted seaward over the last 2500 to 2700 years. The ridge crests sit +3·5 to 5·1 m above Australian Height Datum (ca mean sea‐level). A ground‐penetrating radar profile shows two distinct radar facies, both of which are dissected by truncation surfaces. Hummocky structures in the upper facies indicate that the nucleus of the beach ridge forms as a berm at +2·5 m Australian Height Datum, equivalent to the fair‐weather swash limit during high tide. The lower facies comprises a sequence of seaward‐dipping reflections. Beach progradation thus occurs via fair‐weather‐wave accretion of sand, with erosion by storm waves resulting in a sporadic sedimentary record. The ridge deposits above the fair‐weather swash limit are primarily composed of coarse and medium sands with pumice gravels and are largely emplaced during surge events. Inundation of the ridges is more likely to occur in relation to a cyclone passing during high tide. The ridges may also include an aeolian component as cyclonic winds can transport beach sand inland, especially during low tide, and some layers above +2·5 m Australian Height Datum are finer than aeolian ripples found on the backshore. Coarse‐sand ridges at Cowley Beach are thus products of fair‐weather swash and cyclone inundation modulated by tides. Knowledge of this composite depositional process can better inform the development of robust palaeoenvironmental reconstructions from the ridges.  相似文献   

11.
A field investigation of temporal and spatial changes in wind and wave characteristics, runup and beach water table elevation was conducted on the foreshore of an estuarine beach in Delaware Bay during neap (April 9, 1995) and spring (April 16, 1995) tides under low wave-energy conditions. The beach has a relatively steep, sandy foreshore and semi-diurnal tides with a mean range of 1.6 m and a mean spring range of 1.9 m. Data from a pressure transducer placed on the low tide terrace reveal a rate of rise and fall of the water level on April 16 of 0.09 mm s−1 resulting in a steeper tidal curve than the neap tide on April 9. Data from three pressure transducers placed in wells in the intertidal foreshore reveal that the landward slope of the water table during the rising neap tide was lower than the slope during spring tide, and there was a slower rate of fall of the beach water table relative to the fall of the tide. Wave heights were lower on April 9 (significant height from 17.1 min records <0.16 m). The water table elevation was 0.08 m higher than the water in the bay at the time of high water, when maximum runup elevation was 0.29 m above high water and maximum runup width was 2.0 m. The elevation of the water table was 0.13 m higher than the maximum elevation of water level in the bay 74 min after high water, when wave height was 0.12 m and wave period was 2.7 s. The use of mean bay water level at high tide will underpredict the elevation of the water table in the beach, and demarcation of biological sampling stations across the intertidal profile based on mean tide conditions will not accurately reflect the water content of the sandy beach matrix.  相似文献   

12.
Data from a moderate energy, meso-tidal beach on the east side of Delaware Bay, New Jersey, USA, revealed the significance of both beach width as a source for aeolian transport and the effect of tidal rise on source width. Wind speeds averaged over 17·1 min, recorded 6 m above the crest of a 0·5 m high dune, ranged from 11·6 to 12·7 m s?1 during the experiment. The highest observed rate of transport on the beach was 0·0085 kg m?1 s?1, monitored at rising low tide when the average wind speed was 11·6 m s?1 across 0·35 mm diameter surface sediments. The wind direction was oblique to the shoreline, creating a source width of 34 m. The reduction in the width of the beach as a source for aeolian transport during rising tide was approximately arithmetic, whereas the reduction in volume of sediment trapped was exponential. Aeolian transport effectively ceased when source width was less than 8 m. Wind conditions, moisture content of the surface sediments and presence of binding salts did not appear to vary dramatically, and no coarse grained lag deposit formed on the surface of the beach. The decrease in rate of sediment trapped through time in the tidal cycle is attributed to differences in source width. Sediment deposited in the litter behind the active beach by strong winds during the rising tide was eroded during the high water period by the high waves and storm surge generated by these winds, and net losses of sediment were observed despite initial aeolian accretion.  相似文献   

13.
Because the Delaware Bay horseshoe crab (Limulus polyphemus) population is managed to provide for dependent species, such as migratory shorebirds, there is a need to understand the process of egg exhumation and to predict eggs available to foraging shorebirds. A simple spatial model was used to simulate horseshoe crab spawning that would occur on a typical Delaware Bay beach during spring tide cycles to quantify density-dependent nest disturbance. At least 20% of nests and eggs were disturbed for levels of spawning greater than one third of the average density in Delaware Bay during 2004. Nest disturbance increased approximately linearly as spawning density increased from one half to twice the 2004 level. As spawning density increased further, the percentage of eggs that were disturbed reached an asymptote of 70% for densities up to 10 times the density in 2004. Nest disturbance was heaviest in the mid beach zone. Nest disturbance precedes entrainment and begins the process of exhumation of eggs to surface sediments. Model predictions were combined with observations from egg surveys to estimate a snap-shot exhumation rate of 5–9% of disturbed eggs. Because an unknown quantity of eggs were exhumed and removed from the beach prior to the survey, cumulative exhumation rate was likely to have been higher than the snap-shot estimate. Because egg exhumation is density-dependent, in addition to managing for a high population size, identification and conservation of beaches where spawning horseshoe crabs concentrate in high densities (i.e., hot spots) are important steps toward providing a reliable food supply for migratory shorebirds.  相似文献   

14.
Populations of the American horseshoe crab (Limulus polyphemus) differ in broad areas of their biology. We observed a non-harvested, marked Florida Gulf coast population during their spring spawning (March–May) in 11 years across a 17-year period (1992–2009). Long-term changes occurred in the number of spawning pairs: the population was stable from 1992 to 2000 but increased markedly after 2000. Short-term variation in numbers of spawning pairs, unpaired females, unpaired males, and operational sex ratios was explained by changes over the season and during each week of spring tides and by differences in actual (not predicted) maximum high tide height. Wind direction strongly affected tidal inundation and the number of spawning horseshoe crabs. Tagging individuals revealed that females returned to the nesting beach less often than males and most females were re-sighted only within 1 week of spring tides. No animals were seen across more than 6 years. Implications for management are discussed.  相似文献   

15.
The Delaware Bay region is the epicenter of horseshoe crab, Limulus polyphemus, activity, and despite the ecological and commercial importance of this species, few studies have examined the long-term movements of horseshoe crabs in this area and the amount of mixing that takes place between smaller coastal embayments within the region and the Delaware Bay proper, factors that are critical to effective management. To better understand these factors, 5568 crabs were tagged in the Delaware Inland Bays as part of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service’s (USFWS) Cooperative Horseshoe Crab Tagging Program in 2002–2016. A high re-sight rate of 20.1% (1123 crabs) was reported to the USFWS. Re-sights suggest that the Delaware Bay population is distributed between coastal New Jersey (south of Barnegat Bay) and coastal Virginia (north of Chincoteague Inlet). There were 90 re-sights in the Inland Bays and 148 re-sights in Delaware Bay, with 320 days or more between tagging and re-sight, showing that substantial interchange between successive spawning seasons occurs. Distance analyses demonstrated that crabs can move between the Inland Bays and other Delaware Bay region waterbodies within a single year. The findings of this study support the current management strategy of splitting the harvest of Delaware Bay crabs between New Jersey, Delaware, Maryland, and Virginia and also demonstrate that the waterbodies within the Delaware Bay region are highly connected. This connectivity supports protecting spawning habitat within the smaller embayments of the Delaware Bay region and including spawning surveys from these systems in future stock assessments.  相似文献   

16.
This paper describes the morphological and sedimentological evolution of a macrotidal beach over a 20 day period under varying hydrodynamic conditions (significant breaker heights of 0·3–2 m and tidal ranges of 2–5 m). During the field campaign, an intertidal bar developed around the mid‐tide level, migrated onshore, welded to the upper beach and was then flattened under energetic wave conditions. The bar had a wave breakpoint origin and its formation was triggered by a reduction in tidal range, causing more stationary water‐level conditions, rather than an increase in wave height. Most of the onshore bar migration took place while the bar was positioned in the inner to mid‐surf zone position, such that the bar moved away from the breakpoint and exhibited ‘divergent’ behaviour. The depth of disturbance over individual tidal cycles was 10–20% of the breaker height. Such values are more typical of steep reflective beaches, than gently sloping, dissipative beaches, and are considered to reflect the maximum height of wave‐generated ripples. The grain size distribution of surficial sediments did not vary consistently across the beach profile and temporal changes in the sedimentology were mostly unrelated to the morphological response. The lack of clear links between beach morphology and sedimentology may be in part due to shortcomings in the sampling methodology, which ignored the vertical variability in the sediment size characteristics across the active layer.  相似文献   

17.
近8ka东亚冬季风变化的东海内陆架泥质沉积记录   总被引：21，自引：2，他引：19  
尝试从陆架上寻找全新世高分辨率的东亚季风替代性指标和记录.通过对位于东海内陆架闽浙沿岸泥中部的PC-6孔进行AMS14C年龄测试和粒度分析, 综合沉积构造、沉积层序与海平面变化讨论该孔的沉积环境, 其下、中、上段分别对应于前滨、近滨和与现今环境基本一致的浅海沉积环境.因上段的沉积作用主要受控于东海冬季沿岸流, 通过粒级-标准偏差分析, 提取了相对应的粒度组分或粒度子体, 该组分的平均粒径被用来作为研究东亚冬季风演化的替代性指标.分析表明, 由此方法建立的PC-6孔上段粒径时间序列, 较完整地反映了近8ka来东亚古季风的演化.东亚冬季风的变化呈现出3个各具特点的阶段7.6~5.1kaB.P.为中等强度的高频率波动; 5.1~1.7kaB.P.以多期、较频繁的强盛活动为特点; 1.7~0kaB.P.为稳定而较弱的时期.由PC-6孔指示的东亚冬季风活动的强盛期, 均在不同区域和材料的记录中找到了相对应降温的证据, 说明气候变化的区域性以至全球性联系.   相似文献   

18.
Estuarine species with wide geographic distributions often experience tidal regimes that vary significantly throughout their range. Plasticity in behaviors associated with the tide is expected to enable synchronization with local tides. The American horseshoe crabLimulus polyphemus typically inhabits estuaries and coastal areas with pronounced semi-diurnal tides that play a role in synchronizing the timing of spawning and larval hatching, but also lives in areas that lack significant tides and associated synchronization cues. We investigated the spatial and temporal pattern of adult spawning and larval hatching ofL. polyphemus in a microtidal coastal lagoon (Indian River Lagoon, Florida, USA). Spawning activity and larval abundance were monitored weekly February 1998–August 2000 at sites spanning 100 km of the lagoon. To identify possible synchronization cues for spawning and hatching success, the presence of adult and larvalL. polyphemus were related to environmental and hydrologic variables using logistic regression. The presence of spawning adults varied significantly among the sub-basins of the lagoon, with the highest densities occurring in the Banana River. Large spawning aggregations were not observed and densities never exceeded 6 m−2. Spawning occurred year-round but varied seasonally with episodes of increased mating activity in the early spring. The occurrence of mating pairs was episodic and was not synchronized among sites. Larval densities were low (4 m−3) and larvae were present at only 12 of the 21 sites. Hatching success was decoupled temporally from spawning activity, with peaks in larval abundance occurring approximately 8 wk after peaks in spawning. Larval abundance was associated with periods of high water. Reproductive activity of horseshoe crabs in the lagoon differs significantly from populations inhabiting areas with semi-diurnal and diurnal tides. These differences are likely due to the lack of periodic tidally-related synchronization cues and regular beach inundation.  相似文献   

19.
Predicting erosion and accretion of sand beaches in estuaries is important to managing shoreline development and identifying potential relationships between biological productivity and beach change. Wave, sediment and profile data, gathered over twenty-nine days on an estuarine sand beach in Delaware Bay, New Jersey, were used to evaluate the performance of four criteria that predict beach erosion and accretion due to wave-induced cross-shore sediment movement (Dean 1973; Sunamura and Horikawa 1974; Hattori and Kawamata 1980; Kraus et al. 1991). Each criterion defines a relation, between a wave and sediment parameter, and includes a coefficient that discriminates beach erosion and accretion events. Relations, based on small-scale laboratory and field data, were evaluated for predicting erosion or accretion at the study site. Significant wave heights at the study site, monitored near high water, ranged from 0.08 to 0.52 m with periods of 2.4 to 12.8 s. Median grain sizes of sediments on the beach foreshore, gathered at low water, ranged from 0.33 to 0.73 mm. All four criteria showed a clustering of erosion and accretion events. Relations derived from small-scale laboratory data were better predictors of erosion on the profile at the field site than those derived from field data gathered on exposed ocean environments. The planar profile and dominance of incident waves of low height and short period are similar to laboratory conditions characterized by initial planar beach slopes and monochromatic waves. Decreasing the value of the empirical coefficient to account for the differences in the magnitude of wave energy and grain size increases the performance of the criteria tested to predict erosion of the profile.  相似文献   

20.
In the early stages of wave growth it is seen that wave heights are underestimated by presently available models especially in a low wind regime. Parametric wind-sea relationships of significant wave height (H2) and zero-crossing period (T 2) for slight to moderate sea-states were proposed earlier on an analysis of wind and wave data. This model is based on the concept of time delay between the wind speed (U) and wave evolution process. It is simple and requires less computational effort compared to the spectral method. The present paper attempts to test and evaluate the performance of the proposed model with additional field data of wind and waves measured off the Indian coast. MeasuredU,H 2, andT 2 ranged between 1 and 15 m/s, 0·5 and 2·7 m and 4 and 10 s respectively. By and large, the comparison between model output and field observations are encouraging. A hindcast study was carried out earlier using a spectral wave prediction model (TOHOKU) for Indian Seas using field measurements which include the data sets utilized in this study. Comparison between these two models reveals a good agreement.  相似文献   

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