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1.
John C. Dixon 《自然地理学》2013,34(4):334-343
Relict barrier beaches occur around the margins of many former pluvial lakes in the California desert. In common with modern barrier beaches along ocean coasts, these relict barriers possess geometric and compositional properties indicative of beach-forming processes, notably waves and currents. Because lake waves are a direct response to wind action, past wave climates may in turn be used to infer paleowind regimes. Where beaches of known age occur, wave climates and wind regimes may be invoked for specific time intervals. Using barrier beaches from former Lake Mojave and Lake Manly, this paper explores the extent to which the above theory may be applied to invoke past processes and wind regimes. The data indicate beach emplacement mainly by wave-related accretion and overwash generated by winds similar in direction to those of today, doubtless influenced then as now by topographic corridors. However, textural properties, predicted wave heights and entrainment velocities indicate that sustained southerly winds were probably twice as strong (by a factor ranging from 1.2 to 2.2 or more) and probably more persistent than today, at least towards the close of pluvial conditions. [Key words: barrier beaches, wave climate, paleoclimate, paleowinds, pluvial lakes, Quaternary, California desert.] 相似文献
2.
Coastal planform studies are a relevant initial stage before launching detailed dynamic field experiments. The aim of this study is to define the planform characteristics of 72 Catalan pocket beaches, natural and man-made, and to determine their sheltering effect, embaymentization and their status of equilibrium. Planform measurements were performed on SIGPAC, 1:5000 orthophoto sets and wave climate was provided by Puertos del Estado (Wana model). Planform parameters were applied and coastal planview indexes were determined.The study shows that the Catalan pocket beaches display a wide range of indentation, suggesting that no single structural, tectonic or morphological control dominates their planform. The man-made pocket beaches typically display indentations which are smaller than those shown by natural pocket beaches. Headland spacing and beach area are positively correlated. The more indented bays are, the shorter their beaches become. Low-indented pocket beaches are the widest and the longest ones.Deep indentation contributes towards beach protection and energy dissipation which counteracts rip efficiency and inhibits the formation of mega-rips. Pocket beaches often show gradual and moderate alongshore changes in texture and beach morphology. One third of the Catalan pocket beaches are “sediment starved”, i.e., 60% and more of their embayed shorelines are deprived of beach sediments. Examination of the status of equilibrium demonstrates that most of the Catalan pocket beaches are in an unstable mode, with indentation ratios that are unrelated to the wave obliquity. 相似文献
3.
Dan Bowman 《自然地理学》2013,34(1):34-46
Seven subaerial, low energy beaches in the SE Mediterranean were surveyed biweekly for 13 months. Beach level data were computer-processed and plotted as time-series profile diagrams that differentiated the subaerial beach into three basic subenvironments: backshore, berm, and swash-zone. Heterogeneous seasonal trends in beach sand budget, erosion/accretion patterns, occurrence of ridges and berm-crests, and in pollution by seaborne tar were observed. The profile stations also showed very different degrees of seasonality, although located along similar beaches. Local beachrock protection, when evident, effectively masked seasonality by significantly lowering beach dynamics. Biweekly, seasonal, and annual fluctuations of the beach sand-budget were computed. Average annual net sand flux at the seven beaches was 66 m3/m of beach front, though wide variations occurred. Annual changes in the sand budget along the study area exceeded volumetric changes within the profile, indicating longshore sand transfer. Synchronism of beach behavior prevailed only at the seasonal level. However, intra-seasonal fluctuations for the different profile stations were out of phase, indicating poor synchronism of beach response due to longshore movement of rhythmic topography. Profile changes were thus often unrelated to concomitant wave-climate changes. The overall heterogeneous beach response was in sharp contrast to the identical wave climate, similar bathymetry, and sedimentology of the studied beaches. 相似文献
4.
A photogrammetric and sediment analysis is presented to illustrate the relationship between beach erosion and seacliff recession on Thompson Island, Boston Harbor, Massachusetts. Aerial photographs taken in 1938, 1952, 1963, and 1977 were measured to determine rates of shoreline change around the island. The 39-year average rate of beach erosion is 0.3 m/yr ± 2% with an average rate of cliff recession at 0.2 m/yr ± 2%. Rates of beach erosion between six orientations that reflect principal wave approach to the island were not found to be significantly different (0.05) for the 39-year period. The rank order correlation between beach erosion and cliff recession for these six orientations was moderately well correlated (0.63). To determine possible controls of cliff erosion, 58 sediment samples were collected from glacial cliffs along the shoreline. The textural composition was determined, and then tested with discriminant function analysis. Partial correlation analysis between beach erosion and cliff recession holding a surrogate for sediment size constant improved the rank order from 0.63 to 0.84. The results indicate that coarser-grained cliffs recede at faster rates, but with less erosion occurring on adjacent beaches. Alternatively, finer-grained cliffs recede at slower rates, but with greater erosion occurring on adjacent beaches. 相似文献
5.
《Journal of Arid Environments》1998,39(3):533-547
Aeolian sand transport on two nourished beaches was related to the fetch of the wind over the beach sand and to surface characteristics. Meteorological and hydrological conditions were recorded for 2 months. The fetch of wind over beach sand was estimated from wind direction, water level, wave height and beach topography. Aeolian sand transport was determined with sand traps. Sediment flux was found to increase with fetch, although this relation was especially affected by the variability in surface characteristics. On one of the beaches sediment supply was limited as a result of shells, forming a lag deposit. 相似文献
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An application of polynomial curve fitting to sediment cumulative frequency distributions is presented to delineate the foreshore depositional patterns along the barrier beaches of the Rhode Island southshore. The analysis is based on 92 sampled stations where data for beach geometry, tidal stage, and sediment size were collected. Using the size-frequency classes obtained from sieving the foreshore sediment samples at 0.25 O intervals and fitting third-degree polynomial equations to these data, over 94% of the variation within the sediment cumulative frequency distributions is explained. The four curve coefficients (a, b, c, d) derived from the predicted third-degree equation are used in a discriminant function analysis to test the relationship between the curve shape and sediment source. Comparison of the discriminant scores with the respective station locations suggests that a series of Pleistocene headlands which occur as discrete points along the beach are serving as independent sources of sediment for the system. 相似文献
8.
《Geomorphology》2006,73(1-2):33-49
Intertidal bar systems are ubiquitous features on wave-dominated beaches in coastal settings with a significant (> 1 m) tidal range. Depending primarily on the wave conditions and the tidal range, and to a lesser extent on the nearshore gradient, they can assume a variety of forms. Slip-face bars represent the most pronounced and dynamic intertidal bar morphology, and are generally found on their own around the mean high tide level. They usually form low on the intertidal beach after storm-induced beach erosion and develop into a berm under prolonged calm wave conditions. Low-amplitude ridges and sand waves represent multiple bar morphologies. The bars occur across the entire intertidal profile and they remain present throughout the year. Multiple intertidal bars tend to be rather subdued and relatively static, especially sand waves, and their origin remains unclear.The morphological response of intertidal bars to changing wave conditions is largely forced: bars build up and migrate onshore under calm waves, and are flattened and may migrate offshore during storms. The morphological response is, however, significantly affected by relaxation time effects and morphological feedback, particularly on beaches with multiple intertidal bars. Despite their morphological differences, the intertidal bar types exhibit pronounced similarities in their morphodynamics. Sediment transport processes and morphological response are principally controlled by the tidal water levels on the beach, because these, together with the offshore wave energy level and the beach morphology, determine the type, intensity and duration of the wave processes operating on the cross-shore profile.It is the dominant importance of tidal water level variations and wave processes in shallow water depths (swash and surf zone bores), rather than wave height variability and deeper water wave processes (breaking and shoaling waves), that constitutes the main difference between intertidal and subtidal bar morphodynamics. 相似文献
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Beach Profiles surveys and gale climate data were utilised to assess medium timescale beach rotation at four beaches located along the shores of a crenulated embayment within Swansea Bay, Southwest Wales. The proposed Tidal Lagoon is located within this Bay. Results identified a 7 year (1998–2005) record of cyclic summer/winter rotation and a 14 year (1999–2013) record of annual rotation within the subaerial zone on all four assessed beaches. In the absence of headlands to trap sediment it is asserted that the driving force for beach rotation is the presence of Swansea Dockland/Tawe dredged channel complex, Port Talbot Harbour and the Neath dredged channel which form surrogate headlands essentially creating four separate beach systems through restricting sediment by-pass. Seasonal averaged wind and wave variables showed differing correlation with volume changes and cross-correlation results showed that volume variation lagged behind forcing variables by up to six months (i.e. the resolution of the data). This was confirmed by the annually averaged results which showed only subtle correlation. Here volume change in most cases lagged forcing variables by less than one year. Based on correlations, wind direction variability follows closely with volume changes but wind speed, wave period and height are generally opposite. Initial results suggest that the proposed Swansea Bay Tidal Lagoon, located between sediment cells and surrogate headlands, would have little negative effect on subaerial coastal processes. These datasets will be used as a benchmark for monitoring prior to, during and post construction, with results being used to update and inform subsequent strategies. 相似文献
11.
Jonathan A. Warrick Douglas A. George Guy Gelfenbaum Peter Ruggiero George M. Kaminsky Matt Beirne 《Geomorphology》2009,111(3-4):136-148
Sediment supply provides a fundamental control on the morphology of river deltas, and humans have significantly modified these supplies for centuries. Here we examine the effects of almost a century of sediment supply reduction from the damming of the Elwha River in Washington on shoreline position and beach morphology of its wave-dominated delta. The mean rate of shoreline erosion during 1939–2006 is ~ 0.6 m/yr, which is equivalent to ~ 24,000 m3/yr of sediment divergence in the littoral cell, a rate approximately equal to 25–50% of the littoral-grade sediment trapped by the dams. Semi-annual surveys between 2004 and 2007 show that most erosion occurs during the winter with lower rates of change in the summer. Shoreline change and morphology also differ spatially. Negligible shoreline change has occurred updrift (west) of the river mouth, where the beach is mixed sand to cobble, cuspate, and reflective. The beach downdrift (east) of the river mouth has had significant and persistent erosion, but this beach differs in that it has a reflective foreshore with a dissipative low-tide terrace. Downdrift beach erosion results from foreshore retreat, which broadens the low-tide terrace with time, and the rate of this kind of erosion has increased significantly from ~ 0.8 m/yr during 1939–1990 to ~ 1.4 m/yr during 1990–2006. Erosion rates for the downdrift beach derived from the 2004–2007 topographic surveys vary between 0 and 13 m/yr, with an average of 3.8 m/yr. We note that the low-tide terrace is significantly coarser (mean grain size ~ 100 mm) than the foreshore (mean grain size ~ 30 mm), a pattern contrary to the typical observation of fining low-tide terraces in the region and worldwide. Because this cobble low-tide terrace is created by foreshore erosion, has been steady over intervals of at least years, is predicted to have negligible longshore transport compared to the foreshore portion of the beach, and is inconsistent with oral history of abundant shellfish collections from the low-tide beach, we suggest that it is an armored layer of cobble clasts that are not generally competent in the physical setting of the delta. Thus, the cobble low-tide terrace is very likely a geomorphological feature caused by coastal erosion of a coastal plain and delta, which in turn is related to the impacts of the dams on the Elwha River to sediment fluxes to the coast. 相似文献
12.
基于站点观测的沙尘暴数据和卫星遥感（FY-3A）的沙尘数据，分析了青藏高原及塔里木盆地-河西走廊沙尘天气的时空分布特征。结果表明：在空间分布上，沙尘天气发生的次数和强度自塔里木盆地-河西走廊往青藏高原的东南方向递减。季节变化上，沙尘暴在青藏高原主要发生在冬、春季，而在塔里木盆地-河西走廊主要发生在春、夏季，这主要是由于地表大风中心在3月北移、10月南移； FY-3A反演的沙尘天气在两个区域均主要发生在冬、春季，发生强度与观测结果在季节变化上也存在差异。在1980—2007年，青藏高原的沙尘暴发生次数和强度上均呈减弱趋势，塔里木盆地-河西走廊的沙尘暴发生次数减弱而强度增强。 相似文献
13.
北京强沙尘暴史和周围生态环境变化 总被引：36，自引：10，他引：26
北京地区自公元440年开始就有强沙尘暴的记录,经过北魏、辽金和明清时期等几个强沙尘暴频发期。北京强沙尘暴多数出现在干旱时期,也有例外。强沙尘暴出现的时间与周围土地的开垦和周围森林植被的破坏有着直接的关系。北京成为新中国首都以来,注重环境的治理,风尘天气减少,特别是强沙尘暴几近消亡。 相似文献
14.
南疆盆地翻山型沙尘暴环流动力结构分析 总被引：4，自引：4，他引：0
2003年4月8日至9日发生了一次超极地冷空气入侵新疆并翻越天山造成南疆盆地大范围强沙尘暴过程,分析沙尘暴强盛期的高度场、高空急流异变、螺旋度场、散度场和不稳定发展,揭示了该类沙尘暴强盛期的环流动力结构。结果表明:①伊朗高压的爆发性发展与乌拉尔山脊叠加形成长波脊,导致泰米尔半岛的极地强冷空气南下,并直插新疆越过天山到达塔里木盆地,造成大范围沙尘暴天气;②强沙尘暴天气产生的根本原因是西西伯利亚地面冷高压爆发性南下并强烈发展;③高空西风急流发生异变在南疆盆地上空形成急流区,并通过动量下传导致地面大风,是大范围沙尘暴发生的动力条件;④沙尘暴区上空螺旋度垂直分布低层为正值、高层为负值,揭示强的旋转上升运动是大范围沙尘暴发生的动力条件。⑤低层辐合高层辐散的垂直结构,易于发生近地面大风和上升气流;⑥该次沙尘暴是一次大范围强对流天气,大气层结处于对流中性或对流不稳定状态,但都有强的斜压不稳定发展,并冷暖空气交换剧烈。沙尘暴影响前塔里木盆地有一个能量明显聚集期,但聚集时间很短。 相似文献
15.
中国50a来沙尘暴变化特征 总被引：15，自引：11，他引：4
基于"中国强沙尘暴序列及其支撑数据集",对中国50a(1958—2007年)来沙尘暴时间和区域变化进行分析,揭示了中国沙尘暴时间和区域变化特征。结果表明,中国沙尘暴站时变化总体呈明显振动减少趋势,经历了两次迅速减少、两次大幅震动和两次和缓减少6个时期,每个时期约为8a,1983—2007年平均值比1958—1982年平均值减少58.4%。沙尘暴的站次平均持续时间年际变化不大,季节变化相差1倍以上,频发日期有延迟趋势,后25a比前25a平均延迟了7d左右。沙尘暴的区域分布呈现两多、两少和两个中心的分布特征,时间变化特征区域表现差异大,新疆南部和内蒙古中西部两个频发中心春季的沙尘暴强度和范围呈相反顺序演变,新疆沙尘暴6月频发。在总体站时减少的情况下,浑善达克沙地西北部和柴达木盆地西北部地区却有增加趋势。沙尘暴终止的年份线向北推移明显,在90°E以东的地区北移,最为明显的华北地区北移大约5个纬度,其范围的缩小和频次的减少共同决定了总体站时减少。 相似文献
16.
塔里木盆地一次东灌型沙尘暴环流动力结构分析 总被引：6，自引：5，他引：1
利用NCEP再分析资料和常规地面观测资料,对2006年4月10日塔里木盆地发生的一次东灌型沙尘暴,从气候背景、环流形势、螺旋度场、锋生次级环流、温度平流等方面进行分析,揭示了此类沙尘暴强盛期的环流动力结构。结果表明：①里咸海脊、乌拉尔脊、新地岛脊同位向叠加,西西伯利亚横槽转竖南下,引导泰米尔半岛强冷空气爆发直插新疆,东灌进入南疆盆地,造成大范围沙尘暴天气;②西西伯利亚地面冷高压爆发性南下并强烈发展是造成此次沙尘天气的根本原因;③盆地前期的干暖形势为沙尘暴的产生提供了有利的热力条件;④沙尘暴区上空螺旋度垂直分布为低层正值、高层负值,构成低空强辐合、高空强辐散的上升运动区,揭示强旋转上升运动是大范围沙尘暴发生的动力条件;⑤高空急流入口区次级环流下沉支导致高层动量下传 ,促使对流层中低层风力加大,冷锋南压,驱动沙尘天气的发生。 相似文献
17.
Abstract: Coastal research and monitoring on New Zealand beaches have typically examined seasonal and event-driven (storms) changes in the coast. However, historical records are now of sufficient length to indicate that change occurs at longer timescales. This paper presents examples of multi-decadal change at three case-study locations around New Zealand. Results show that morphological adjustment of the coast occurs at multi-decadal scales and is much larger than short-term dynamics. Physical mechanisms driving changes are ill defined but may be associated with El Niños and La Niña episodes which modulate waves and sea level, as well as changes in sediment supply. 相似文献
18.
Rip current warning signs complement lifeguards and flags on many beaches globally to alert beach users to the danger of rip currents and to inform beach users about how to identify and avoid rip currents. Although rip current warning signs, such as the sign distributed by the U.S. National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), are an important part of any beach safety program, their effectiveness is unknown. Moreover, we do not know how beach users respond to or perceive the rip-current warnings represented graphically and textually. Here we report on a spatially and temporally randomized survey of 392 beach users from three heavily frequented public beaches in Texas (Galveston, Port Aransas, and Corpus Christi) at the height of the summer beach season in 2012. Beach users were asked to respond to the rip current warning sign developed in 2003–2004 by the U.S. Rip Current Task Force. Nearly half of respondents did not notice any warning sign when approaching the beach. When prompted by enumerators with the Task Force sign, 44.5% of beach users found the sign was “helpful” or “very helpful” to their ability to identify a rip current. However, more than half of beach users had difficulty translating the rip current image into a feature observable while standing or sitting on the shore. Many beach users will respond to a warning sign showing the rip current from the perspective of place, rather than the aerial view representing the ocean as space. This realization guides our specific suggestions for improving the current NOAA warning signs. 相似文献
19.
Despite the word 'foreshore' being in common usage relating to the coast, it has three distinct legal definitions in Great Britain. There are three property law regimes, English law in England and Wales, Scots law (feudal) in Scotland and Udal tenure in parts of Orkney and Shetland. These result in the boundaries between private property interests and public property interests lying in a different position on the beach area under each of these property regimes. This paper examines the physical extent of each of the foreshore definitions and highlights a number of associated issues that rely on these different boundaries fundamentally impacting upon the management of the coast. 相似文献
20.
影响中国西北及青藏高原沙尘天气变化的因子分析 总被引：5，自引：3，他引：2
利用1948—2006年的NCEP(2.5°×2.5°)月平均再分析资料,分析了影响西北及青藏高原沙尘天气变化的动力、热力因子。结果表明:①200 hPa副热带西风急流是影响沙尘天气的动力因子,高层天气系统的季节性变化,导致了其位置及强弱的季节性变化,从而导致了高原南部扬沙、沙尘暴季节性南北移动;急流的动力结构使局地环流得以形成,局地环流的下沉支流使得高空动量下传,使地面风速增大,从而使扬沙和沙尘暴发生。②浮尘和扬沙、沙尘暴天气成因有所不同,地表温度等热力因素对浮尘天气有直接影响;而急流等动力因子则影响浮尘天气的频率,对发生范围影响较小;动力因子是扬沙、沙尘暴发生的直接原因;500 hPa锋生函数大值带的季节性南北移动也是扬沙、沙尘暴南北季节性变化的重要原因。③500 hPa水汽输送带的边缘是扬沙和沙尘暴容易发生的区域。④地表湿度是沙尘天气发生的一个因子,当地表较干时,沙尘天气发生频率增加,而当地表湿度增大时,沙尘天气发生的频率减小。 相似文献