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1.
Jonathan A. Warrick Douglas A. George Guy Gelfenbaum Peter Ruggiero George M. Kaminsky Matt Beirne 《Geomorphology》2009,111(3-4):136-148
Sediment supply provides a fundamental control on the morphology of river deltas, and humans have significantly modified these supplies for centuries. Here we examine the effects of almost a century of sediment supply reduction from the damming of the Elwha River in Washington on shoreline position and beach morphology of its wave-dominated delta. The mean rate of shoreline erosion during 1939–2006 is ~ 0.6 m/yr, which is equivalent to ~ 24,000 m3/yr of sediment divergence in the littoral cell, a rate approximately equal to 25–50% of the littoral-grade sediment trapped by the dams. Semi-annual surveys between 2004 and 2007 show that most erosion occurs during the winter with lower rates of change in the summer. Shoreline change and morphology also differ spatially. Negligible shoreline change has occurred updrift (west) of the river mouth, where the beach is mixed sand to cobble, cuspate, and reflective. The beach downdrift (east) of the river mouth has had significant and persistent erosion, but this beach differs in that it has a reflective foreshore with a dissipative low-tide terrace. Downdrift beach erosion results from foreshore retreat, which broadens the low-tide terrace with time, and the rate of this kind of erosion has increased significantly from ~ 0.8 m/yr during 1939–1990 to ~ 1.4 m/yr during 1990–2006. Erosion rates for the downdrift beach derived from the 2004–2007 topographic surveys vary between 0 and 13 m/yr, with an average of 3.8 m/yr. We note that the low-tide terrace is significantly coarser (mean grain size ~ 100 mm) than the foreshore (mean grain size ~ 30 mm), a pattern contrary to the typical observation of fining low-tide terraces in the region and worldwide. Because this cobble low-tide terrace is created by foreshore erosion, has been steady over intervals of at least years, is predicted to have negligible longshore transport compared to the foreshore portion of the beach, and is inconsistent with oral history of abundant shellfish collections from the low-tide beach, we suggest that it is an armored layer of cobble clasts that are not generally competent in the physical setting of the delta. Thus, the cobble low-tide terrace is very likely a geomorphological feature caused by coastal erosion of a coastal plain and delta, which in turn is related to the impacts of the dams on the Elwha River to sediment fluxes to the coast. 相似文献
2.
图解法计算沉积物粒度参数在沉积学研究中被广泛应用,但需要通过手工作图求累积曲线,是一项相当繁杂的劳动。通用计算软件Origin拥有很强的函数计算和绘图功能,不仅可以批量计算图解粒度参数,同时还可以直接绘制（分段）概率累积曲线图;其实施过程操作简单,仅需点击菜单命令,无需编写任何语句,有利于不懂编程的沉积分析人员进行数据分析,有很大的应用价值。文章随机选取10个不同沉积环境下形成的松散沉积物样本,利用Origin求解各样本粒度累积曲线的百分位数,在其内嵌的Excel表格中计算粒度参数,并用Origin的制图功能绘制粒度概率累积曲线与沉积组分分段直线图。Origin与手工作图计算的结果之间的差值（绝对值平均）及方差都很小（0.004 2~0.018 6）。计算结果表明Origin在粒度参数计算方面完全可以代替手工作图,不仅操作简单,而且精度非常高。 相似文献
3.
4.
ass.prof. Niels Nielsen 《Geografisk tidskrift / udgivet af Bestyrelsen for Det Kongelige danske geografiske selskab》2013,113(1):61-67
Nielsen, Niels: Observations of sea ice influence on the littoral sediment exchange, North Zealand, Denmark. Geografisk Tidsskrift 88:61–67. Copenhagen. 1988. In 1985 and 1986 monthly surveys of sediment volumes were carried out on a sandy beach and its nearshore platform at the north coast of Zealand. Both winters in the research period had temperatures below average, and consequently abundant sea ice formations. ‘Ice winters’ in open Danish waters occur statistically about 1/3 of the winters. The appearance of sea ice resulted in marked loss of sediment from the whole littoral zone, but by far the largest net erosion could be detected on the nearshore plane. An important factor is assumed to be the interaction of waves with the icefoot and ice pile-ups. For the beach itself, ice-glazing of the beach surface and interstitial frost in the foreshore sediments caused wave erosion within and just off the swash zone due to variations of the percolation parameter. This dynamic was observed during both the freeze-up and thaw-up periods. On the backshore, wind-derived forms characterized the winter beach, but here the net sediment budget was less affected. 相似文献
5.
New field observations of beach berm growth resulting in the sub-aerial closure of an intermittently closed and open lake or lagoon are presented. These perched estuarine systems frequently exhibit ephemeral entrances that respond to process forcing almost instantaneously on a geomorphic timescale, with closure by a supra-tidal berm of depositional origin. The observations were made following a mechanical opening of the entrance and show very rapid vertical growth of an initially low beach berm as a result of swash overtopping and sediment overwash. Very little simultaneous seaward progradation was observed. Sediment overwash volumes were obtained from survey data over a period of 12 days either side of spring tide and the observations also provide an accurate measure of swash sediment transport at the berm crest. A process-based parametric model is developed through robust parameterisations of wave run-up, wave run-up distributions and sediment transport and is applied to predict the total overwash transport into and infilling the estuary entrance. The model is tested against the field data and compares well with the observations. While the field data are site-specific, the proposed modelling framework represents a first step in modelling the complex growth and recovery of natural beach berms in broad-scale morphodynamic models. 相似文献
6.
Karl F. Nordstrom 《自然地理学》2013,34(2):177-196
This study compares the cyclic and seasonal geomorphic responses of oceanside and bayside beaches on Sandy Hook Spit, New Jersey. It was hypothesized that the different nature of onshore wind regimes at bayside and oceanside beaches would cause different types of beach change. On the east-facing ocean shoreline, rates of beach change are related to weather patterns associated with the passage of mid-latitude cyclonic storms. Bayside beach change is related to the influence of the prevailing westerlies. Storm erosion and post-storm deposition is more rapid on oceanside beaches. Swell waves occurring between storms rapidly reinstate pre-storm equilibrium conditions. Lower bay-side wave energies occurring between storms have little effect on profile development, and foreshore slopes inherited from previous storms undergo little change. Bayside beaches therefore appear to be more in equilibrium with storm conditions than oceanside beaches. Changes in foreshore slope, beach volume, and beach position associated with individual storm events are compared to seasonal trends to test the applicability of the Hayes cyclic model of beach development to both oceanside and bayside beaches. There is evidence of a cyclic trend of develop-ment on the more exposed ocean sites and seasonal development on the more sheltered bayside sites, which suggests that cyclic development may be causally related to the difference among the energy levels of the storm and nonstorm wave regimes. 相似文献
7.
A photogrammetric and sediment analysis is presented to illustrate the relationship between beach erosion and seacliff recession on Thompson Island, Boston Harbor, Massachusetts. Aerial photographs taken in 1938, 1952, 1963, and 1977 were measured to determine rates of shoreline change around the island. The 39-year average rate of beach erosion is 0.3 m/yr ± 2% with an average rate of cliff recession at 0.2 m/yr ± 2%. Rates of beach erosion between six orientations that reflect principal wave approach to the island were not found to be significantly different (0.05) for the 39-year period. The rank order correlation between beach erosion and cliff recession for these six orientations was moderately well correlated (0.63). To determine possible controls of cliff erosion, 58 sediment samples were collected from glacial cliffs along the shoreline. The textural composition was determined, and then tested with discriminant function analysis. Partial correlation analysis between beach erosion and cliff recession holding a surrogate for sediment size constant improved the rank order from 0.63 to 0.84. The results indicate that coarser-grained cliffs recede at faster rates, but with less erosion occurring on adjacent beaches. Alternatively, finer-grained cliffs recede at slower rates, but with greater erosion occurring on adjacent beaches. 相似文献
8.
John W. Johnston Todd A. Thompson Douglas A. Wilcox Steve J. Baedke 《Journal of Paleolimnology》2007,37(3):349-364
A common break was recognized in four Lake Superior strandplain sequences using geomorphic and sedimentologic characteristics.
Strandplains were divided into lakeward and landward sets of beach ridges using aerial photographs and topographic surveys
to identify similar surficial features and core data to identify similar subsurface features. Cross-strandplain, elevation-trend
changes from a lowering towards the lake in the landward set of beach ridges to a rise or reduction of slope towards the lake
in the lakeward set of beach ridges indicates that the break is associated with an outlet change for Lake Superior. Correlation
of this break between study sites and age model results for the strandplain sequences suggest that the outlet change occurred
sometime after about 2,400 calendar years ago (after the Algoma phase). Age model results from one site (Grand Traverse Bay)
suggest an alternate age closer to about 1,200 calendar years ago but age models need to be investigated further. The landward
part of the strandplain was deposited when water levels were common in all three upper Great Lakes basins (Superior, Huron,
and Michigan) and drained through the Port Huron/Sarnia outlet. The lakeward part was deposited after the Sault outlet started
to help regulate water levels in the Lake Superior basin. The landward beach ridges are commonly better defined and continuous
across the embayments, more numerous, larger in relief, wider, have greater vegetation density, and intervening swales contain
more standing water and peat than the lakeward set. Changes in drainage patterns, foreshore sediment thickness and grain size
help in identifying the break between sets in the strandplain sequences. Investigation of these breaks may help identify possible
gaps in the record or missing ridges in strandplain sequences that may not be apparent when viewing age distributions and
may justify the need for multiple age and glacial isostatic adjustment models.
This is the third in a series of ten papers published in this special issue of Journal of Paleolimnology. These papers were
presented at the 47th Annual Meeting of the International Association for Great Lakes Research (2004), held at the University
of Waterloo, Waterloo, Ontario, Canada. P.F. Karrow and C.F.M. Lewis were guest editors of this special issue.
The U.S. Government's right to retain a non-exclusive, royalty-free license in and to any copyright is acknowledged. 相似文献
9.
集合经验模态分解（EEMD）是一种适用于非线性、非平稳序列的信号分析方法,将EEMD应用于气候要素时间序列,可提取真实可靠的气候变化信号。根据北京地区历史时期干旱灾害资料,采用EEMD分解方法对明代（1368—1644年）北京地区干旱灾害等级序列进行多时间尺度的分析,获得简洁且平稳性较好的固有模态函数分量,并与所统计的明代北京地区干旱灾害频次多项式拟合曲线进行对比。结果表明：将EEMD应用于干旱灾害等级序列,可以提取干旱灾害中各个尺度的变化,对明代北京地区干旱灾害进行多尺度分析。明代北京地区干旱灾害存在着2.8年、6.3年的年际周期,11.5年、26.6年、53.6年的年代际周期和118.7年、299.5年的世纪周期。北京地区干旱灾害在明代整个时间跨度上呈现着先增加后微减的变化趋势,总体而言明代中期以后旱灾明显增多。 相似文献
10.
海滩养护影响下的海岸风沙堆积——以福建平潭岛龙凤头海滩养护工程为例 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
海滩养护工程实施后,在保护海岸抵御侵蚀的同时往往还产生其他的环境问题。尤其在强风区海岸,海滩养护造成了滩面环境的改变,使滩面风沙搬运和沉积特征都发生了显著变化。对福建平潭岛龙凤头海滩养护工程实施前后的风沙沉积对比研究表明,养护后海滩的干滩宽度、滩面沉积物粒径、表层湿度、海滩高程等环境要素变化对滩面风沙搬运与沉积过程都产生了重要的影响。主要结论为:(1)养护海滩干滩滩肩高程的提高增加了滩面风速,增大了滩面风沙输沙率;(2)养护海滩干滩宽度的增加既扩大了风区长度也为风沙搬运提供了充足的物源,且不受潮汐过程影响,提供了持续的风沙物源供给,增加了风沙作用时间;(3)养护海滩剖面形态的变化使得海滩滩面沉积物含水率减小,降低风沙起动风速,增强了滩面风沙搬运。 相似文献
11.
哈罗铁路沿线沉积物粒度特征 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
哈罗铁路开通对沿线资源的开发具有重要意义,然而自开通以来饱受风沙危害。对铁路沿线及防沙体系内沉积物粒度特征参数进行了对比分析,以期为该线风沙危害的科学防治提供有益参考。结果表明：（1）铁路沿线沉积物组成以中细沙为主,灌丛沙地分选性中等至很差,偏度以近对称为主,峰度中等至很窄;戈壁区沉积物整体分选性较差,偏度以极正偏为主,峰度以很窄为主;（2）灌丛沙地粒径频率曲线呈单峰态分布,而戈壁粒径频率曲线呈双峰或三峰态分布;哈密盆地区戈壁沉积物粒径垂直分布特征表现为上粗下细;（3）铁路沿线形成沙害的主要原因是就地起沙,防护体系内的积沙已成为危害铁路的二次沙源。 相似文献
12.
海平面上升与海滩侵蚀 总被引：27，自引：1，他引：27
世纪性的海平面持续上升，加大了海岸水下斜坡深度，逐渐减小波浪对沉溺古海岸的扰动作用而形成海底的横向供沙减少，却加强激浪对上部海滩的冲刷。逐渐上升的海平面，降低了河流坡降而减少了入海沙量。因此世界海滩普遍出现沙量补给匮乏。海平面上升伴随着厄尔尼诺现象与风暴潮频率的增加，水动力加大。这两者的综合效应，使海滩遭受冲刷，沙坝向陆移动。如按ＩＰＣＣ估计，至２１００年海面上升５０ｃｍ时，中国主要旅游海滨的沙滩将损失现有面积的１３％─６６％。主要对策是海岸防护与海滩人工喂养。 相似文献
13.
黄河河龙区间河流泥沙对相关重大事件与政策的响应 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
利用径流-输沙量双累积曲线与单位降雨侵蚀力输沙量(输沙量负荷)的分析表明,河龙区间泥沙变化与相关重大事件与政策密切相关。“大开荒” 时期输沙量负荷平均值最大,是输沙量负荷多年平均值的1.8倍;“大跃进”、“农业学大寨”和“文革”时期的输沙量负荷均值也较大,为输沙量负荷多年平均值的1.4~1.5倍。改革开放后,输沙量负荷下降明显,输沙量负荷平均值较改革开放前减少了55.7%,特别是在1999年实施“退耕还林(草)”后,输沙量负荷平均值下降到整个时期的最小值,仅为输沙量负荷多年平均值的33.3%。 相似文献
14.
基于Copula的区域水文干旱频率分析 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
以径流量为水文干旱指标,通过径流量距平百分率和径流量累积频率两种方法识别水文干旱特征变量,并以适线法确定单个干旱特征变量的分布曲线,在此基础上利用Archimedean Copula函数构建了干旱历时与干旱烈度间的联合分布,并计算干旱重现期。应用研究结果表明:用Copula函数,得以上两种识别法提取的干旱历时和干旱烈度的联合概率分布,其重现期计算结果与区域实际受旱状况相符,其中径流量距平百分率法相对更优、更直观;适线法避免了基于样本数据估计分布函数参数的不合理性,使基于Copula函数的频率分析结果更可靠。 相似文献
15.
本文利用电镜扫描方法 (SEM)对比分析了南极乔治王岛无冰区海滩沉积、冰碛物以及阿德雷岛湖泊沉积等典型沉积环境中的石英砂表面结构特征 ,得出了乔治王岛各典型沉积环境中石英砂表面结构特征的颗粒频率曲线。结果表明 :不同沉积环境下的石英砂颗粒表面结构特征具有相似性 ,这主要和南极地区广泛发育的冰川作用有关 ,同时 ,它们也有各自典型的特征组合 ,这些典型特征组合的不同反映了石英砂后期的搬运历史和沉积环境的差异。本文还依据石英砂表面特征的颗粒出现频率 ,利用聚类分析方法对研究区内三级海岸阶地上的沉积物和一个未知成因的样品进行了沉积环境的判别分析 ,结果证明石英砂微形貌特征可以作为南极地区沉积环境识别的有效手段 相似文献
16.
Beach Profiles surveys and gale climate data were utilised to assess medium timescale beach rotation at four beaches located along the shores of a crenulated embayment within Swansea Bay, Southwest Wales. The proposed Tidal Lagoon is located within this Bay. Results identified a 7 year (1998–2005) record of cyclic summer/winter rotation and a 14 year (1999–2013) record of annual rotation within the subaerial zone on all four assessed beaches. In the absence of headlands to trap sediment it is asserted that the driving force for beach rotation is the presence of Swansea Dockland/Tawe dredged channel complex, Port Talbot Harbour and the Neath dredged channel which form surrogate headlands essentially creating four separate beach systems through restricting sediment by-pass. Seasonal averaged wind and wave variables showed differing correlation with volume changes and cross-correlation results showed that volume variation lagged behind forcing variables by up to six months (i.e. the resolution of the data). This was confirmed by the annually averaged results which showed only subtle correlation. Here volume change in most cases lagged forcing variables by less than one year. Based on correlations, wind direction variability follows closely with volume changes but wind speed, wave period and height are generally opposite. Initial results suggest that the proposed Swansea Bay Tidal Lagoon, located between sediment cells and surrogate headlands, would have little negative effect on subaerial coastal processes. These datasets will be used as a benchmark for monitoring prior to, during and post construction, with results being used to update and inform subsequent strategies. 相似文献
17.
砒砂岩地区降雨与植被耦合关系对侵蚀产沙的影响 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
研究降雨--植被耦合关系对侵蚀产沙的影响,为侵蚀治理提供数据支持.基于TRMM降雨数据和MODIS 250 m NDVI,分析降雨和植被的年内分布模式和匹配关系,并构建降雨--植被耦合指数RV,用于反映侵蚀产沙状况.进一步利用年降雨量,NDVI以及其分布参数(峰度系数和偏斜度)与输沙量进行相关分析和多元回归分析.结果显示:降雨的集中,偏斜程度和波动性要比植被更为明显;RV与实际输沙量的相关系数为0.84,可以很好地反映侵蚀产沙的相对大小;年输沙量与降雨的分布参数相关性最高,达到0.94和0.87,对提高回归模型的拟合程度影响也最大;考虑降雨量,NDVI及其分布参数的模型的拟合程度最好,Ra2达到0.9232.因此,降雨与植被的年内匹配模式对侵蚀产沙具有重要影响. 相似文献
18.
Internal structure of a barrier beach as revealed by ground penetrating radar (GPR): Chesil beach, UK 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Chesil Beach (Dorset) is one of the most famous coastal landforms on the British coast. The gravel beach is over 18 km long and is separated for much of its length from land by a tidal lagoon known as The Fleet. The beach links the Isle of Portland in the east to the mainland in the west. Despite its iconic status there is little available information on its internal geometry and evolutionary history. Here we present a three-fold model for the evolution of Chesil Beach based on a series of nine ground penetrating radar (GPR) traverses located at three sites along its length at Abbotsbury, Langton Herring and at Ferry Bridge. The GPR traverses reveal a remarkably consistent picture of the internal structure of this barrier beach. The first phase of evolution involves the landward transgression of a small sand and gravel beach which closed upon the coast leading to deposition of freshwater peat between 5 and 7 k yr BP. The second evolutionary phase involves the ‘bulking-out’ of the beach during continued sea level rise, but in the presence of abundant gravel supplied by down-drift erosion of periglacial slope deposits. This episode of growth was associated with a series of washover fans which accumulated on the landward flank of the barrier increasing its breadth and height but without significant landward transgression of the barrier as a whole. The final phase in the evolution of Chesil Beach involves the seaward progradation of the beach crest and upper beach face associated with continued sediment abundance, but during a still-stand or slight fall in relative sea level. This phase may provide further evidence of a slight fall in relative sea level noted elsewhere along the South Coast of Britain and dated to between 1.2 and 2.4 k yr BP. Subsequently the barrier appears to have become largely inactive, except for the reworking of sediment on the beach face during storm events. The case study not only refines the evolutionary picture of Chesil Beach, but illustrates the importance of the subtle interplay between relative sea level and sediment supply in the evolution of a barrier system. In addition, it also illustrates the potential of GPR in resolving the evolutionary history of gravel-rich coastal landforms such as Chesil Beach. 相似文献
19.
《Geomorphology》2007,83(1-2):29-47
Many coastal dune systems in Western Europe were emplaced during the Little Ice Age (LIA). The formation of such dune fields has generally been ascribed to a combination of low sea level and strong winds during that time period, providing a supply of sand from the exposed shoreface and sufficient wind energy to transport this sand landward. However, little information exists on the processes that controlled sediment supply to the beach and why this onshore supply was initiated at all. In this contribution, we consider the origin and development of older dune fields on a barrier spit complex (Skallingen) located in the northern part of the Danish Wadden Sea. Maps and new data on dune litho- and chrono-stratigraphy, the latter based on OSL-dating, allow a precise estimate of the initiation and termination of dune emplacement. Dune formation at Skallingen started at a relatively late stage of the LIA and it can be temporally correlated with a phase of relative sea level rise in North Western Europe and with a high frequency of storm surges along the Danish west coast. These are the conditions during which nearshore bars currently migrate onshore across the shoreface off Skallingen. The bars eventually merge with the beach and constitute a source of sand for modern foredune accretion. It is probable that the onshore bar migration occurred under similar conditions in the past and the migration was triggered, or enhanced, by the sea level recovery from the mid-LIA low-stand and the associated frequent storm surge activity. Consequently, at Skallingen onshore sand supply was caused by marine, rather than aeolian, agents; this supply provided the basis for subsequent dune formation. Indications are, however, that the sediment supply to the beach/dunes was a factor of 2–3 larger in the past. Dune aggradation eventually ceased around 1900AD because of dyke construction. Hence, the association between dune formation and sea level/surge variation at Skallingen is somewhat contrary to other statements of coastal dune development during the LIA in North Western Europe. 相似文献