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11.
Ocean Dynamics - In this study, the relation between rogue wave occurrence statistics and properties of the directional wind-wave spectrum is investigated. The study is conducted by means of the... 相似文献
12.
A. V. Babanin P. P. Verkeev B. B. Krivinsky V. G. Proshchenko 《Physical Oceanography》1993,4(5):399-407
An accelerometer buoy wave gauge developed in the Marine Hydrophysical Institute of the Ukrainian Academy of Sciences is described. This allows measurement of acceleration and the sea surface elevation in the system of reference connected with a buoy. The integral and frequency spectral characteristics of waves can be computed from the records of the wave gauge signal. The use of a buoy accelerometer at sea provides a possibility to derive effective information on the wind waves.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov. 相似文献
13.
The asymmetry and curtosis for different wave conditions have been computed using experimentally-derived measurement data on sea surface roughness. It is shown that the asymmetry and curtosis values are essentially different from zero and practically do not depend on the slope of waves and their age.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov. 相似文献
14.
Wave modelling - The state of the art 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
The WISE Group J.-H.G.M. Alves A. Babanin K. Belibassakis M. Donelan T.H.C. Herbers P.A.E.M. Janssen I.V. Lavrenov R. Magne M. Onorato D. Resio A. Sheremet H.L. Tolman J. Wolf 《Progress in Oceanography》2007,75(4):603-674
This paper is the product of the wave modelling community and it tries to make a picture of the present situation in this branch of science, exploring the previous and the most recent results and looking ahead towards the solution of the problems we presently face. Both theory and applications are considered.The many faces of the subject imply separate discussions. This is reflected into the single sections, seven of them, each dealing with a specific topic, the whole providing a broad and solid overview of the present state of the art. After an introduction framing the problem and the approach we followed, we deal in sequence with the following subjects: (Section) 2, generation by wind; 3, nonlinear interactions in deep water; 4, white-capping dissipation; 5, nonlinear interactions in shallow water; 6, dissipation at the sea bottom; 7, wave propagation; 8, numerics. The two final sections, 9 and 10, summarize the present situation from a general point of view and try to look at the future developments. 相似文献
15.
A. Toffoli M. Onorato E. Bitner-Gregersen A.R. Osborne A.V. Babanin 《Ocean Engineering》2008,35(3-4):367-379
When the wave spectrum is sufficiently narrow-banded and the wave steepness is sufficiently high, the modulational instability can take place and waves can be higher than expected from second-order wave theory. In order to investigate these effects on the statistical distribution of long-crested, deep water waves, direct numerical simulations of the Euler equations have been performed. Results show that, for a typical design spectral shape, both the upper and lower tails of the probability density function for the surface elevation significantly deviate from the commonly used second-order wave theory. In this respect, the crest elevation is observed to increase up to 18% at low probability levels. It would furthermore be expected that wave troughs become shallower due to nonlinear effects. Nonetheless, the numerical simulations show that the trough depressions tend to be deeper than in second-order theory. 相似文献
16.
Introduction of a new friction routine into the SWAN model that evaluates roughness due to bedform and sediment size changes 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Grant Alexander Smith Alexander V. Babanin Peter Riedel I.R. Young Stephen Oliver Graeme Hubbert 《Coastal Engineering》2011
The significant loss of wave energy due to seabed interaction in finite depths is a known effect and bottom friction terms are used in the wave models to account for this dissipation. In this paper, a new bottom-interaction function is tested by means of the SWAN model, based on measurements at two field sites, Lake George and Lakes Entrance, both in Australia. The function accounts for dependence of the friction on the formation process of bottom ripples and on the grain size of the sediment. The overall improvement of the model prediction both for the wave height and wave period is demonstrated. 相似文献
17.
Ocean Dynamics - Sea spray comprises liquid droplets that cover a broad range of radii, from 0.01 to 1000 μm. For field observations, it is difficult to measure the sea spray size... 相似文献
18.
It is well established that the modulational instability enhances the probability of occurrence for extreme events in long crested wave fields. Recent studies, however, have shown that the coexistence of directional wave components can reduce the effects related to the modulational instability. Here, numerical simulations of the Euler equations are used to investigate whether the modulational instability may produce significant deviations from second-order statistical properties of surface gravity waves when short crestness (i.e., directionality) is accounted for. The case of a broad-banded directional wave field (i.e. wind sea) is investigated. The analysis is concentrated on the wave crest and trough distribution. For completeness a comparison with a unidirectional wave field is presented also. Results will show that the distributions based on second-order theory provide a good estimate for the simulated crest and trough height also at low probability levels. 相似文献
19.
Thomas Steven Babanin Alexander V. Walsh Kevin J. E. Stoney Lachlan Heil Petra 《Ocean Dynamics》2019,69(6):737-746
Ocean Dynamics - In this study, we investigate how sea ice extent and thickness are affected by additional turbulent mixing from unbroken surface waves. This ‘surface wave mixing’ (SWM)... 相似文献
20.
Henrique Rapizo Alexander V. Babanin Eric Schulz Mark A. Hemer Tom H. Durrant 《Ocean Dynamics》2015,65(9-10):1275-1288