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An alternative model for the nonlinear interaction term Snl in spectral wave models, the so called generalized kinetic equation (Janssen J Phys Oceanogr 33(4):863–884, 2003; Annenkov and Shrira J Fluid Mech 561:181–207, 2006b; Gramstad and Stiassnie J Fluid Mech 718:280–303, 2013), is discussed and implemented in the third generation wave model WAVEWATCH-III. The generalized kinetic equation includes the effects of near-resonant nonlinear interactions, and is therefore able, in theory, to describe faster nonlinear evolution than the existing forms of Snl which are based on the standard Hasselmann kinetic equation (Hasselmann J Fluid Mech 12:481–500, 1962). Numerical simulations with WAVEWATCH have been carried out to thoroughly test the performance of the new form of Snl, and to compare it to the existing models for Snl in WAVEWATCH; the DIA and WRT. Some differences between the different models for Snl are observed. As expected, the DIA is shown to perform less well compared to the exact terms in certain situations, in particular for narrow wave spectra. Also for the case of turning wind significant differences between the different models are observed. Nevertheless, different from the case of unidirectional waves where the generalized kinetic equation represents a obvious improvement to the standard forms of Snl (Gramstad and Stiassnie 2013), the differences seems to be less pronounced for the more realistic cases considered in this paper. 相似文献
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We show that interaction of two monochromatic waves at the water surface enters a different dynamic regime if their wavenumbers become very close. The study is conducted by means of a fully nonlinear wave model. In the course of evolution of the two waves, downshifting of the initial wave energy and growth of the first mode occur depending on wave steepness and dk/k. Behaviour of these features changes if dk/k?<?0.0025: both downshifting and growth rate become independent of dk/k, accompanied by rapid transfer of wave energy to large scales. 相似文献
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A simple and exact numerical scheme for long-term simulations of 3D potential fully nonlinear periodic gravity waves is suggested. The scheme is based on the surface-following nonorthogonal curvilinear coordinate system. Velocity potential is represented as a sum of analytical and nonlinear components. The Poisson equation for the nonlinear component of velocity potential is solved iteratively. Fourier transform method, the second-order accuracy approximation of vertical derivatives on a stretched vertical grid and the fourth-order Runge–Kutta time stepping are used. The scheme is validated by simulation of steep Stokes waves. A one-processor version of the model for PC allows us to simulate evolution of a wave field with thousands degrees of freedom for hundreds of wave periods. The scheme is designed for investigation of nonlinear 2D surface waves, generation of extreme waves, and direct calculations of nonlinear interactions. 相似文献
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Henrique Patricio Prado Pereira Nelson Violante-Carvalho Izabel Christina Martins Nogueira Alexander Babanin Qingxiang Liu Uggo Ferreira de Pinho Fabio Nascimento Carlos Eduardo Parente 《Ocean Dynamics》2017,67(12):1577-1591
It is well known that the majority of buoy measurements are located around the US coast and along some Europeans countries. The lack of long-term and densely spaced in situ measurements in the Southern Hemisphere in general, and the South Atlantic in particular, hinders several investigations due to the lack of detailed metocean information. Here, we present an effort to overcome this limitation, with a dense network of buoys along the Brazilian coast, equipped with several meteorological and oceanographic sensors. Out of ten currently operational buoys, three are employed to present the main characteristics of waves in the Southern part of the network. For the first time, sensor characteristics and settings are described, as well as the methods applied to the raw wave data. Statistics and distributions of wave parameters, swell propagating events, comparison with a numerical model and altimeters and a discussion about the occurrence of freak waves are presented. 相似文献
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Violante-Carvalho Nelson Skvortsov Alexei Babanin Alexander Pereira Henrique Pinho Uggo Esperança Paulo T. T. 《Ocean Dynamics》2021,71(3):379-389
Ocean Dynamics - Dispersion of a passive tracer by water waves is of significant importance for many scientific and technological problems including bio-diversity of marine life, ecological impact... 相似文献
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An extremely large (“freak”) wave is a typical though rare phenomenon observed in the sea. Special theories (for example, the modulation instability theory) were developed to explain mechanics and appearance of freak waves as a result of nonlinear wave-wave interactions. In this paper, it is demonstrated that the freak wave appearance can be also explained by superposition of linear modes with the realistic spectrum. The integral probability of trough-to-crest waves is calculated by two methods: the first one is based on the results of the numerical simulation of a wave field evolution performed with one-dimensional and two-dimensional nonlinear models. The second method is based on calculation of the same probability over the ensembles of wave fields constructed as a superposition of linear waves with random phases and the spectrum similar to that used in the nonlinear simulations. It is shown that the integral probabilities for nonlinear and linear cases are of the same order of values 相似文献
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An assessment of the impact of surface currents on wave modeling in the Southern Ocean 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
This paper presents an assessment of the impact of the ocean circulation on modeled wave fields in the Southern Ocean, where a systematic positive bias of the modeled wave height against altimetry data has been reported. The inclusion of ocean currents in the wave model considerably reduces the positive bias of the simulated wave height for high southern latitudes. The decrease of wave energy in the presence of currents is almost exclusively related to the reduction of the relative wind, caused by an overall co-flowing current field associated with the Antarctic Circumpolar Current. Improvements of the model results are also found for the peak period and the mean period against a long-term moored buoy. At the mooring location, the effect of currents is greater for larger and longer waves, suggesting remotely generated swells are more influenced by the currents than local waves. However, an additional qualitative analysis using high-resolution currents in a finer grid nested to the global coarser grid shows that typical resolution of global hydrodynamic reanalysis is not sufficient to resolve mesoscale eddies, and as a consequence, the simulation of mesoscale wave patterns can be compromised. The results are also discussed in terms of the accuracy of forcing fields. 相似文献
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Introduction of a new friction routine into the SWAN model that evaluates roughness due to bedform and sediment size changes 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Grant Alexander Smith Alexander V. Babanin Peter Riedel I.R. Young Stephen Oliver Graeme Hubbert 《Coastal Engineering》2011
The significant loss of wave energy due to seabed interaction in finite depths is a known effect and bottom friction terms are used in the wave models to account for this dissipation. In this paper, a new bottom-interaction function is tested by means of the SWAN model, based on measurements at two field sites, Lake George and Lakes Entrance, both in Australia. The function accounts for dependence of the friction on the formation process of bottom ripples and on the grain size of the sediment. The overall improvement of the model prediction both for the wave height and wave period is demonstrated. 相似文献