JONSWAP's parameters: Sorting out the inconsistencies     

A.W. Lewis  R.N. Allos 《Ocean Engineering》1990,17(4)

The original prognostic equations for the JONSWAP-spectrum contained inconsistencies. A subsequent paper (Hasselmann et al., 1976, J. phys. Oceanogr.6, 200–208) attempted to regularise the situation. This paper shows that there were still inconsistencies in the prognostic equations giving overestimations of the first moment of the spectrum and consequently the significant wave height. The prognostic equations are reworked systematically and results presented. It is shown that variable σ_a, σ_b and γ must be used to achieve consistent results  相似文献   

A seismic refraction study of cretaceous oceanic lithosphere in the Northwest Pacific Basin     

Michel Bée  L. Dale Bibee 《Marine Geophysical Researches》1989,11(4):239-261

A seismic refraction study on old (110 Myr) lithosphere in the northwest Pacific Basin has placed constraints on crustal and uppermantle seismic structure of old oceanic lithosphere, and lithospheric aging processes. No significant lateral variation in structure other than azimuthally anisotropic mantle velocities was found, allowing the application of powerful amplitude modeling techniques. The anisotropy observed is in an opposite sense to that expected, suggesting the tectonic setting of the area may be more complex than originally thought. Upper crustal velocities are generally larger than for younger crust, supporting current theories of decreased porosity with crustal aging. However, there is no evidence for significant thickening of the oceanic crust with age, nor is there any evidence of a lower crustal layer of high or low velocity relative to the velocity of the rest of Layer 3. The compressional and shear wave velocities rule out a large component of serpentinization of mantle materials. The only evidence for a basal crustal layer of olivine gabbro cumulates is a 1.5 km thick Moho transition zone. In the slow direction of anisotropy, upper mantle velocities increase from 8.0 km s^-1 to 8.35 km s^-1 in the upper 15 km below the Moho. This increase is inconsistent with an homogeneous upper mantle and suggests that compositinal or phase changes occur near the Moho.  相似文献   

Nonlinear transient water waves—part I. A numerical method of computation with comparisons to 2-D laboratory data     

T. B. Johannessen  C. Swan 《Applied Ocean Research》1997,19(5-6):293-308

  相似文献   

Geoacoustic and physical properties of carbonate sediments of the Lower Florida Keys   总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4  

M. D. Richardson  D. L. Lavoie  K. B. Briggs 《Geo-Marine Letters》1997,17(4):316-324

 Near-surface sediment geoacoustic and physical properties were measured from a variety of unconsolidated carbonate sediments in the Lower Florida Keys. Surficial values of compressional and shear speed correlate with sediment physical properties and near-surface acoustic reflectivity. Highest speeds (shear 125–150 m s^-1; compressional 1670–1725 m s^-1) are from sandy sediments near Rebecca Shoal and lowest speeds (shear 40–65 m s^-1; compressional 1520–1570 m s^-1) are found in soft, silty sediments which collect in sediment ponds in the Southeast Channel of the Dry Tortugas. High compressional wave attenuation is attributed to scattering of acoustic waves from heterogeneity caused by accumulation of abundant shell material and other impedance discontinuities rather than high intrinsic attenuation. Compared to siliciclastic sediments, carbonate sediment shear wave speed is high for comparable values of sediment physical properties. Sediment fabric, rather than changes due to the effects of biogeochemical processes, is responsible for these differences.  相似文献   

Influence of Wind on Dynamics and Flushing of Shallow Estuaries     

W.R. Geyer 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》1997,44(6):713-722

Observations of two small estuaries in Cape Cod, U.S.A. indicate large variations in salinity structure that are forced by variations in along-estuary wind stress. During onshore winds, the estuarine circulation is reduced, and the along-estuary salinity gradient increases as freshwater accumulates. During offshore winds, the surface outflow is enhanced, freshwater is flushed out of the estuary, and the along-estuary salinity gradient becomes weak. Constrictions block the wind-induced flushing, resulting in strong salinity fronts across the constrictions. The residence time of one of the estuaries varies by more than a factor of three in response to variations in wind-induced flushing. The other estuary has little variation of flushing associated with winds, due to a constriction at the mouth that inhibits the wind-induced exchange. The strong influence of winds on the flushing of these estuaries is due in part to their shallow depths, which accentuates the influence of wind stress relative to the effects of the horizontal density gradient. In addition, the residence times of the estuaries are comparable to the time scale of wind forcing, allowing large changes in water properties during wind events.  相似文献   

Transient soil response in a porous seabed with variable permeability     

Brian R. Seymour  Dong S. Jeng  John R.C. Hsu 《Ocean Engineering》1996,23(1):27-46

The soil permeability of many natural marine sediments decreases with depth because of consolidation under overburden pressure. This is accompanied by a decrease in porosity and void ratio that also affect the permeability. Conventional theories for wave-induced soil response have assumed a homogeneous porous seabed. This paper presents a new approach for the wave-induced response in a soil matrix, with variable permeability as a function of burial depth. The soil matrix considered is unsaturated and anisotropic, and is subject to a three-dimensional wave system. The pore pressure and effective stresses induced by such a system are obtained from a set of equations incorporating a variable permeability. Verification is available through reduction to the simple case of uniform permeability. The results indicate that the effect of variable soil permeability on pore pressure and vertical effective stress may be significant, especially in a gravelled seabed and for unsaturated sandy soils.  相似文献   

Observation of clouds and solar radiation over the Pacific Ocean as relation to global climate     

Farn Parungo  Clarence Nagamoto  Cecilia M. I. R. Girz  Jeff Torgerson  Zhou Mingyu 《海洋学报(英文版)》1995,14(2):201-207

ＯｂｓｅｒｖａｔｉｏｎｏｆｃｌｏｕｄｓａｎｄｓｏｌａｒｒａｄｉａｔｉｏｎｏｖｅｒｔｈｅＰａｃｉｆｉｃＯｃｅａｎａｓｒｅｌａｔｉｏｎｔｏｇｌｏｂａｌｃｌｉｍａｔｅ￥ＦａｒｎＰａｒｕｎｇｏ；ＣｌａｒｅｎｃｅＮａｇａｍｏｔｏ；ＣｅｃｉｌｉａＭ．Ｉ．Ｒ．Ｇｉ...  相似文献   

Quaternary geology of the Amazonian Lowland     

Georg Irion  Jens Müller  Jose Nunes de Mello  Wolfgang J. Junk 《Geo-Marine Letters》1995,15(3-4):172-178

The Quaternary history of the Amazon lowlands is characterized by deposition of sediments of Andean provenance and by the influences of changing sea levels. Areas well above the present water tables were not reached by Pleistocene high-water stages. These areas have been intensively weathered since the Tertiary, forming hard lateritic weathering horizons. These weathering horizons are best explained by the relatively constant, humid tropical climate throughout the Quaternary. In the western Amazonian Lowland, flood plains corresponding to the different Pleistocene sea-level heights were formed. During low sea level, erosion in the drainage areas increased and the water levels of the central Amazon River system were lowered. Valleys drowned and lakes formed in the lower reaches of rivers and creeks during high sea-level stages. These lakes (ria lakes) remained in the valleys with rivers having a low sediment load. Seismic profiling (3.5 kHz) in some of these lakes clearly showed deposits of the three last periods of Quaternary high sea-level stages.  相似文献   

Interference fringes on GLORIA side-scan sonar images from the Bering Sea and their implications     

Q. J. Huggett  A. K. Cooper  M. L. Somers  A. R. Stubbs 《Marine Geophysical Researches》1992,14(1):47-63

GLORIA side-scan sonographs from the Bering Sea Basin show a complex pattern of interference fringes sub-parallel to the ship's track. Surveys along the same trackline made in 1986 and 1987 show nearly identical patterns. It is concluded from this that the interference patterns are caused by features in the shallow subsurface rather than in the water column. The fringes are interpreted as a thin-layer interference effect that occurs when some of the sound reaching the seafloor passes through it and is reflected off a subsurface layer. The backscattered sound interferes (constructively or desctructively) with the reflected sound. Constructive/destructive interference occurs when the difference in the length of the two soundpaths is a whole/half multiple of GLORIA's 25 cm wavelength. Thus as range from the ship increases, sound moves in and out of phase causing bands of greater and lesser intensity on the GLORIA sonograph. Fluctuations (or wiggles) of the fringes on the GLORIA sonographs relate to changes in layer thickness. In principle, a simple three dimensional image of the subsurface layer may be obtained using GLORIA and bathymetric data from adjacent (parallel) ship's tracks. These patterns have also been identified in images from two other systems; SeaMARC II (12 kHz) long-range sonar, and TOBI (30 kHz) deep-towed sonar. In these, and other cases world-wide, the fringes do not appear with the same persistence as those seen in the Bering Sea.  相似文献   

Effects of benzene and dimethylnaphthalene on homeostatic processes in two species of crabs     

Linda H. Mantel  Edward Flynn  Mary Katz  Liza Knapp 《Marine environmental research》1985,17(2-4)

Long-term exposure of animals to sub-lethal doses of toxicants such as benzene (B) and dimethylnaphthalene (DMN) may result in subtle changes in their physiology and biochemistry. In crustaceans such changes include decreased rate of limb regeneration, extended time to molt and decreased growth increment at molt.^1,2 These processes depend upon an adequate supply of stored nutrients in the tissues and appropriate release of neuroendocrine substances from the central nervous system.^3,4 We are examining the effects of sub-lethal doses of B and DMN on osmotic and ionic regulation and on nutrient storage in the blue crab, Callinectes sapidus, and the green crab, Carcinus maenas. Disturbances in these physiological processes may reflect alterations in neuroendocrine functions brought about by the presence of toxicants. We find that exposure of C. maenas to B or DMN, followed by transfer to a dilute medium, results in impaired osmoregulatory capacity, while addition of these compounds to a dilute medium to which the animal is already acclimated does not affect their regulatory ability. Storage of carbohydrate in the midgut gland (hepatopancreas) is decreased by B or DMN, while the accessory storage tissues (gill, muscle) are not significantly affected.  相似文献