Effect of wave-directionality on second-order loads induced by the set-down     

B. Molin  V. Fauveau 《Applied Ocean Research》1984,6(2):66-72

At first-order of approximation a sea-state may be considered as an infinite sum of Airy components with angular frequencies ω_i and wave-number vectors k_i. A second-order analysis shows the co-existence of long waves appearing at the difference frequencies ω_i—ω_j with wave-number vectors k_i—k_j. In shallow water they become appreciable in amplitudes and may induce slow-drift motion of moored structures.For small values of ω_i—ω_j,k_i—k_j may take all kinds of directions for an angular-spread wave system. Then it may be questioned how the in-line and transverse second-order accelerations compare to those obtained for a mono-directional wave-system.This analysis is carried out here by relating the spectra of the second-order horizontal accelerations to the directional wave-spectrum. Numerical applications are first performed for deep water. They show that at low frequencies, even for very narrowly spread wave systems, the transverse component is larger than the in-line component. In shallow water both components are dratically reduced as compared to the mono-directional case. As a consequence one may question the validity of model-testings or numerical models which take no account of the directionality of the wave-system.  相似文献   

Imagery of the inhomogeneities of currents on the ocean surface state     

V. A. Dulov  V. N. Kudryavtsev 《Physical Oceanography》1990,1(5):325-336

The influence of inhomogeneities of surface currents on the intensity of breaking wind waves is considered and a model for the relation between whitecap contrasts and the tensor of current gradients is developed. The imagery of typical patterns of ocean currents is discussed. The results of field observations supporting this model are given.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov.  相似文献   

Dynamics of an elastically moored floating body by the three-dimensional infinite element method     

S. L. Lau  Z. Ji  C. O. Ng 《Ocean Engineering》1990,17(5)

The three-dimensional problem of the dynamics of a moored floating object under the action of regular waves is solved numerically as a boundary value problem by use of the finite-infinite element method. The cross-sectional shape of the floating body and the mooring arrangements may all be arbitrary. The mathematical formulations of the problem and procedures of the numerical method are presented in this paper. A corresponding computer program WALOAD has been developed, which is capable of computing wave forces on fixed and floating structures. Numerical computations using this program could give very accurate results, even though rather coarse meshes were used. The program is easy to use and is readily applicable in many practical situations.  相似文献   

The Bengal Fan: Some preliminary results from ODP drilling     

Dorrik A. V. Stow  James R. Cochran  ODP Leg Shipboard Scientific Party 《Geo-Marine Letters》1989,9(1):1-10

Three deep holes, with a maximum penetration of 960 m below sea floor, were drilled into the distal Bengal Fan just south of the equator during ODP Leg 116. The entire section recovered is dominated by sandy silt and mud turbidites derived from the Ganges Delta and from the continental margin of the western Bay of Bengal, interbedded with thin pelagic clays and with biogenic turbidites probably from a local sea mount source. The effects of Hi-Malayan uplift, sea level fluctuations, local tectonics, and fan channel/lobe processes have closely interacted to produce the observed sedimentary record of the past 17 million years since the early Miocene.Coauthors include: James R. Cochran, Lamont-Doherty Geological Observatory (Co-chief scientist); Dorrik A. V. Stow, Nottingham University, England (Co-chief scientist); Christian A. Auroux, Texas A & M University, USA (ODP staff scientist); Kazou Amano, Ibaraki University, Japan; Peter S. Balson, British Geological Survey, Keyworth, Notts, England; Jacques Boulegue, Pierre & Marie Curie University, Paris, France; Garrett W. Brass, University of Miami, Florida, USA; Jeffrey Corrigan, University of Texas, Austin, USA; Stefan Gartner, Texas A & M University, USA; Stuart A. Hall, University of Houston, Texas, USA; Silvia Iaccarino, University of Parma, Italy; Toshio Ishizuka, University of Tokyo, Japan; trena Kacmarska, Mount Allison University, New Brunswick, Canada; Heidemarie Kassens, Kiel University, West Germany; Gregory Leger, Dalhousie University, Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada; Franca Proto Decima, University of Padova, Italy; C. V. Raman, Andhra University, Visakhapatnam, India; William W. Sager, Texas A & M University, USA; Kozo Takahashi, Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, USA; Thomas Thompson, 580 Euclid Ave, Boulder, Colo, USA; Jean-Jacques Tiercelin, University of Bretagne, Brest, France; Mark Townsend, University of Nottingham, England; Andreas Wetzel, Tubingen University, West Germany; N. P. Wijayananda, National Aquatatic Resource Agency, Colombo, Sri Lanka; and Colin Williams, Lamont-Doherty Geological Observatory.  相似文献   

Application of double bounded probability density function for analysis of ocean waves     

V. Sundar 《Ocean Engineering》1989,16(2)

Ocean waves and forces induced by them on offshore structures are random in nature. Experience has shown that short term statistics of wave heights can be described by the Rayleigh distribution for narrow band spectra (Longuet-Higgins, 1952) and that the long term statistics or the evaluation of design wave is based on certain well known extreme value distribution such as mixed Frechet distribution (Thom, 1973a, b).This paper presents a new application of the double bounded probability density function to describe the ocean wave statistics. The prime importance is to estimate the most probable maximum wave height for offshore structural designs.  相似文献   

Theoretical wind wave frequency spectra in shallow water     

Wen Shengchang 《海洋学报(英文版)》1988,7(3):325-343

The method developed by Wen et al. (1988 a) for deriving theoretical wind wave frequency spectrum in deep water is extended to the case of water of finite depth, in which a parameter η=H/d is introduced, where H and d represent the average wave height and water depth respectively. The derived spectra reduce to those in deep water when η=0. The case of η=1/2 corresponds to waves impending to break because of the effect of the bottom. Simplified forms of spectra are given. The theoretical results agree with the observed spectra well.  相似文献   

Effects of taxonomic uncertainty on species diversity indices     

R.S.S. Wu 《Marine environmental research》1982,6(3):215-225

As a result of taxonomic uncertainty, generic and higher taxonomic ranks (family, order, class or phylum) are often treated as units in calculating diversity indices, instead of species. In this paper, the errors introduced by such practices are examined for various diversity indices (Shannon - Wiener Index, Maximum Information Index, Evenness, Margalef's Species Richness Index and Hurlbert's Probability of Interspecific Encounter). The use of higher taxonomic ranks may invalidate comparison of diversity indices. In a single study, substantial error and erroneous conclusion may arise, even if consistent practices are adopted.  相似文献   

Geotechnical aspects of fine-grained mass flow deposits: California Continental Borderland     

F. J. Hein  D. S. Gorsline 《Geo-Marine Letters》1981,1(1):1-5

Seismic reflection profiling demonstrates the importance of mass movement in the north-central California Borderland. Bulk properties of surficial hemipelagic sediments in the Santa Barbara, Santa Cruz, and San Nicolas basins show that different types of mass-transported sediments have different properties, although their general sedimentologic characteristics are very similar. Slump deposits have moderate water contents (48% wet weight basis), high plasticity indices (46%), and moderate activities (1.6). For debris flows these values are low: 28%, 5%, and 0.3, respectively, and for other types (liquefied flow, mudflows, and turbidities) the values are high: 54 to 63%, 49 to 58%, and 1.2 to 1.5, respectively.  相似文献   

An application of a Markov-chain model of shore erosion for describing the dynamics of sediment flux     

V. Ostroumov  V. Rachold  A. Vasiliev  V. Sorokovikov 《Geo-Marine Letters》2005,25(2-3):196-203

Acquisition of coastline retreat rate time sequences (RRTS) is an important component of Arctic coastal monitoring. These data can be used not only to estimate sediment input into the sea during a fixed time period, but also to dynamically simulate sediment flux intensity. The RRTS were investigated at the Marre-Sale (Kara Sea) and Malii Chukochii Cape (East Siberian Sea) key sites. Statistical analysis demonstrated that the RRTS possess Markov characteristic. This allowed coastline dynamics to be described using a Markov-chain model. A model is discussed that combines Markov characteristic and information about the composition and structure of the permafrost sediments to describe sediment flux dynamics.  相似文献   

Using ocean ambient noise for array self-localization and self-synchronization   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

Sabra  K.G. Roux  P. Thode  A.M. D'Spain  G.L. Hodgkiss  W.S. Kuperman  W.A. 《Oceanic Engineering, IEEE Journal of》2005,30(2):338-347

Estimates of the travel times between the elements of a bottom hydrophone array can be extracted from the time-averaged ambient noise cross-correlation function (NCF). This is confirmed using 11-min-long data blocks of ambient noise recordings that were collected in May 1995 near the southern California coast at an average depth of 21 m in the 150-700 Hz frequency range. Coherent horizontal wavefronts emerging from the time derivative of the NCF are obtained across the array's aperture and are related to the direct arrival time of the time-domain Green's function (TDGF). These coherent wavefronts are used for array element self-localization (AESL) and array element self-synchronization (AESS). The estimated array element locations are used to beamform on a towed source.  相似文献