Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone     

Gu Jialong Shen Xianrong Professor  Hohai University  Nanjing Engineer  The Investigation  Design Institute  Bureau of Communications of Zhejiang Province  Hangzhou 《中国海洋工程》1991,(2)

In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches.  相似文献   

Spatial patterns and environmental risks of ringnet fishing along the Kenyan coast     

P Thoya  S Pérez-Jorge  GM Okemwa  H Mwamlavya  A Tuda  N Wambiji 《African Journal of Marine Science》2020,42(1):23-33

Ringnet fishing began in the early 20th century and is practised worldwide, mainly to target nearshore pelagic species. The method was introduced to Kenya’s coastal waters by migrant fishers from Tanzania. However, the impacts of this fishing gear remain poorly assessed. We assessed the spatial distribution of ringnet fishing effort and its possible effects on ecosystem components, such as coral reefs, marine megafauna and marine protected areas, on the south coast of Kenya. We tracked 89 ringnet fishing trips made from December 2015 to January 2016 and used spatial multicriteria analysis to determine hotspots of possible environmental risks. The results showed that habitat type and bathymetric profile influenced the spatial distribution of ringnet fishing effort. Mixed seagrass and coral habitats had the highest concentration of the effort. Most of the habitats in the study area were moderately exposed to the impacts of the ringnet fishery. The study identifies high-risk areas that require spatial measures to minimise possible environmental risks of the gear both to habitats and to endangered sea turtles.  相似文献   

黄海溶解氧垂直分布的最大值   总被引：31，自引：8，他引：31  

顾宏堪 《海洋学报》1980,2(2):70-79

海洋溶解氧垂直分布中的最大值,正如最小值一样,亦为溶解氧垂直分布中的一个突出的现象.对于这一现象,不同的研究者作出了不同的解释.Thompson在太平洋北部及东北部25-50M处观测到氧最大值层,他们认为这一氧最大值层,是与光合带相适应的.对鄂霍次克海中氧的最大值的形成,绘出了一个假设的图,认为夏季氧垂直分布中的最大值,是由于在跃层形成时期,浮游植物光合作用时,大量的氧从上面渗入到稍下的层内,随着增温时该处稳定密度层的形成,垂直交换困难,因而氧即被保持下耒,形成了夏季最大值.Ichiye认为,密度跃层中的氧最大值,是由于氧的涡动扩散,要进行得比热的涡动传导为慢的缘故.  相似文献   

First results from the North Iceland experiment     

C. Riedel  A. Tryggvason  B. Brandsdottír  T. Dahm  R. Stéfansson  M. Hensch  R. Böðvarsson  K. S. Vogfjord  S. Jakobsdottír  T. Eken  R. Herber  J. Holmjarn  M. Schnese  M. Thölen  B. Hofmann  B. Sigurdsson  S. Winter 《Marine Geophysical Researches》2006,27(4):267-281

Between June 2004 and September 2004 a temporary seismic network was installed on the northern insular shelf of Iceland and onshore in north Iceland. The seismic setup aimed at resolving the subsurface structure and, thus, the geodynamical transition from Icelandic crust to typical oceanic crust along Kolbeinsey Ridge. The experiment recorded about 1,000 earthquakes. The region encloses the Tjörnes Fracture Zone containing the Husavik–Flatey strike-slip fault and the extensional seismic Grimsey Lineament. Most of the seismicity occurs in swarms offshore. Preliminary results reveal typical mid-ocean crust north of Grimsey and a heterogeneous structure with major velocity anomalies along the seismic lineaments and north–south trending subsurface features. Complementary bathymetric mapping highlight numerous extrusion features along the Grimsey Lineament and Kolbeinsey Ridge. The seismic dataset promises to deliver new insights into the tectonic framework for earthquakes in an extensional transform zone along the global mid-ocean ridge system.  相似文献   

海底管道开沟机械的技术经济性能评定与选型   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

张国光  顾林声 《海洋技术学报》1993,12(3):16-27

本文在对水下管道开沟机械的需求市场、实际应用和研制开发动向作深入调研的基础上，选择水下管道开沟机械特有的技术先进性、适用性、安全可靠性以及经济性评价指标，构造评价模型，对水下管道施工作业中广为应用的水力冲射开沟机械、海底管道犁、机械开沟机和土壤液化法埋管设备及其机型的技术经济性能作了较为详尽地分析对比及综合评价。在此基础上，笔者提出了水下管道开沟机械的一般选型原则和对我国海底管道开沟机械研究开发工  相似文献   

渤海、黄海、东海水温垂直结构统计特征分析     

蓝淑芳  顾传宬  傅秉照 《海洋科学集刊》1985,(25):11-26

渤海、黄海与东海的水温垂直结构呈现陆架浅海特有的水文特征，其分布与变化甚为复杂。几十年来，虽然中外海洋学家曾对这些海区水文要素的分布及其变异作过大量研究，但是，关于水温垂直结构各特征值较系统的分析研究则始于六十年代初期，毛汉礼等根据一年观测资料(1958-1959)作了较全面的阐述。但是这些资料多数是用颠倒温度表观测，少数为深度温度计(BT)观测；并且研究海区限千124°E以西。本文试图分析研究近年来渤海、黄海与东海水温垂直结构各特征值的统计特性；研究海区有了较大的扩展：黄海至124°30''E；东海至127°E。 文中引用国家海洋局1975一1980年间BT观测资料，共计166个观测站，累积约七千余个BT片资料。  相似文献   

A seismic refraction study of cretaceous oceanic lithosphere in the Northwest Pacific Basin     

Michel Bée  L. Dale Bibee 《Marine Geophysical Researches》1989,11(4):239-261

A seismic refraction study on old (110 Myr) lithosphere in the northwest Pacific Basin has placed constraints on crustal and uppermantle seismic structure of old oceanic lithosphere, and lithospheric aging processes. No significant lateral variation in structure other than azimuthally anisotropic mantle velocities was found, allowing the application of powerful amplitude modeling techniques. The anisotropy observed is in an opposite sense to that expected, suggesting the tectonic setting of the area may be more complex than originally thought. Upper crustal velocities are generally larger than for younger crust, supporting current theories of decreased porosity with crustal aging. However, there is no evidence for significant thickening of the oceanic crust with age, nor is there any evidence of a lower crustal layer of high or low velocity relative to the velocity of the rest of Layer 3. The compressional and shear wave velocities rule out a large component of serpentinization of mantle materials. The only evidence for a basal crustal layer of olivine gabbro cumulates is a 1.5 km thick Moho transition zone. In the slow direction of anisotropy, upper mantle velocities increase from 8.0 km s^-1 to 8.35 km s^-1 in the upper 15 km below the Moho. This increase is inconsistent with an homogeneous upper mantle and suggests that compositinal or phase changes occur near the Moho.  相似文献   

渤海湾的有机氯农药和多氯联苯     

古堂秀  徐贤义  张添佛 《海洋科学集刊》1988,(29):77-86

有机氯农药(DDT，BHC)和多氯联苯(PCBs)是人工合成的有机氯化合物。它们的化学性质稳定，在环境中能持久地残留并不易受环境中各种因素的作用而降解，它们在生物体内的累积和生物链中的浓缩已构成对人类和生态系统的潜在危害，早已引起世界各国的关注，并公认为全球性的环境污染物。许多国家的学者对不同海区、各大洋海水、沿岸海水、沉积物以及海洋生物体内的DDT, BHC, PCBs作了广泛深入的调查研究(Elear, 1976; Edwand et al, 1975; Ehrhardt, 1981; Harvey, 1973; Osterroht, 1977;Robert, 1976)。我国对近海海域有机氯农药污染状况作过一些调查，但对多氯联苯未见有过报道。、1980年8月作者在渤海湾采集了26个站位的海水样品，22个站位的沉积物样品和8个毛蚶(Arasubcrenata Lischke)样品，分析了其中DDT, BHC, PCBs的含量水平，并对其在渤海湾中的分布特征作了初步探讨。  相似文献   

Occurrence and environmental implications of magnetic iron sulfides in stiff muds from the continental shelf of the East China Sea     

Zhanghua Wang  Zhongyuan Chen  Jiawei Gu  Yanhong Li  Weixian Li 《Geo-Marine Letters》2005,25(5):300-305

Magnetic properties were measured on 370 vibrocores obtained from the outer continental shelf of the East China Sea, with the aim of reconstructing environmental changes during the late Quaternary. High SIRM/χ values (>25 kA m⁻¹) found in stiff muds of late Pleistocene age suggest the presence of magnetic iron sulfides, especially greigite. Framboidal aggregates of greigite were further identified by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and attached energy dispersive X-ray (EDAX) analyses, as well as powder X-ray diffraction (XRD) analyses of the magnetic separates. The occurrence of magnetic iron sulfides indicates the complex oxidation–reduction of the stiff muds, resulting from exposure and inundation during the last glacial maximum (LGM) and the post-glacial transgression, respectively.  相似文献   

1990年12月14日台湾强震的预报判据     

顾延芬 《台湾海峡》1993,12(1):81-84

本文运用福建省沿海气象要素的异常变化,作台湾省的中、短期地震预报,取得了成功的效果。采用长乐历年各月14时最低气压的距平值,作台湾省未来4～7个月内出现强震的预报依据,并采用热异常进行短临跟踪。当秋冬季节连续4d 长乐、福州、台北的气温均比广州累计高出10℃时,预报未来1～5d 台湾省出现7级强震。又根据近百年来台湾发生的强震,统计其活动季节,得到近20年来7级地震发生的时间,绝大部分在9～12月。  相似文献