Lagrangian measurements and modelling of fluid advection in the inner surf and swash zones     

T.E. Baldock  A. KudoP.A. Guard  J.M. AlsinaM.P. Barnes 《Coastal Engineering》2008

New laboratory and field data are presented on fluid advection into the swash zone. The data illustrate the region of the inner surf zone from which sediment can be directly advected into the swash zone during a single uprush, which is termed the advection length. Experiments were conducted by particle tracking in a Lagrangian reference frame, and were performed for monochromatic breaking waves, solitary bores, non-breaking solitary waves and field conditions. The advection length is normalised by the run-up length to give an advection ratio, A, and different advection ratios are identified on the basis of the experimental data. The data show that fluid enters the swash zone from a region of the inner surf zone that can extend a distance seaward of the bore collapse location that is approximately equal to half of the run-up length. This region is about eight times wider than the region predicted by the classical swash solution of Shen and Meyer [Shen, M.C., Meyer, R.E., 1963. Climb of a bore on a beach. Part 3. Runup. Journal of Fluid Mechanics 16, 113–125], as illustrated by Pritchard and Hogg [Pritchard, D., Hogg, A.J., 2005. On the transport of suspended sediment by a swash event on a plane beach. Coastal Engineering 52, 1–23]. Measured advection ratios for periodic waves show no significant trend with Iribarren number, consistent with self-similarity in typical swash flows. The data are compared to recent characteristic solutions of the non-linear shallow water wave (NLSW) equations and both finite difference and finite volume solutions of the NLSW equations.  相似文献   

Predicting suitable habitat for the cold-water coral Lophelia pertusa (Scleractinia)     

Andrew J. Davies  Max Wisshak  James C. Orr  J. Murray Roberts   《Deep Sea Research Part I: Oceanographic Research Papers》2008,55(8):1048-1062

Ecological-niche factor analysis (ENFA) was applied to the reef framework-forming cold-water coral Lophelia pertusa. The environmental tolerances of this species were assessed using readily available oceanographic data, including physical, chemical, and biological variables. L. pertusa was found at mean depths of 468 and 480 m on the regional and global scales and occupied a niche that included higher than average current speed and productivity, supporting the theory that their limited food supply is locally enhanced by currents. Most records occurred in areas with a salinity of 35, mean temperatures of 6.2–6.7  °C and dissolved oxygen levels of 6.0–6.2 ml l⁻¹. The majority of records were found in areas that were saturated with aragonite but had low concentration of nutrients (silicate, phosphate, and nitrate). Suitable habitat for L. pertusa was predicted using ENFA on a global and a regional scale that incorporated the north-east Atlantic Ocean. Regional prediction was reliable due to numerous presence points throughout the area, whereas global prediction was less reliable due to the paucity of presence data outside of the north-east Atlantic. However, the species niche was supported at each spatial scale. Predicted maps at the global scale reinforced the general consensus that the North Atlantic Ocean is a key region in the worldwide distribution of L. pertusa. Predictive modelling is an approach that can be applied to cold-water coral species to locate areas of suitable habitat for further study. It may also prove a useful tool to assist spatial planning of offshore marine protected areas. However, issues with eco-geographical datasets, including their coarse resolution and limited geographical coverage, currently restrict the scope of this approach.  相似文献   

Evaluating the efficacy of technical measures: a case study of selection device legislation in the UK Crangon crangon (brown shrimp) fishery     

Catchpole  Tom L.; Revill  Andrew S.; Innes  James; Pascoe  Sean 《ICES Journal of Marine Science》2008,65(2):267-275

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Quantifying the storm erosion hazard for coastal planning     

David P. Callaghan  Ranasinghe Roshanka  Short Andrew 《Coastal Engineering》2009

The quantity of coastline retreat resulting from storm erosion is one of the most important phenomena that needs to be accurately quantified to facilitate effective coastal management strategies. Historically, the volume of storm erosion (and coastline retreat) accommodated for coastal planning decisions has been directly linked to the storm (usually defined by considering wave height and duration only) with a certain pre-defined return period, known as a Synthetic Design Storm (SDS) (e.g. 1 in 100 year storm). The SDS method of estimating storm erosion volumes for coastal planning thus assumes that, for example, the 1 in 100 year storm event also results in a 1 in 100 year erosion event. This communication discusses the physical reality of this assumption and demonstrates the improved performance of a new method, based on Joint Probability Distributions (JPD) for estimating storm erosion volumes proposed by Callaghan et al. [Callaghan, D.P., Nielsen, P., Short, A.D. and Ranasinghe, R., 2008. Statistical simulation of wave climate and extreme beach erosion. Coastal Engineering, 55(5): 375–390] using one of the world's longest beach profile surveys from Sydney, Australia.  相似文献   

Accumulation of Cu and Zn in discarded antifouling paint particles by the marine gastropod, Littorina littorea     

Melanie Gammon  Andrew Turner  Murray T. Brown 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2009,84(4):447-452

The short-term (5 day) accumulation of Cu and Zn in different tissues of the marine gastropod, Littorina littorea, has been studied in the presence of 10 mg l⁻¹ of antifouling paint particles and pre- or simultaneously contaminated algal food (Ulva lactuca). Accumulation of Cu was observed in the head–foot, digestive gland–gonad complex and gills to extents dependent on how and when food was contaminated and administered. However, retention of Zn was only observed in the gills and only when L. littorea and U. lactuca were simultaneously exposed to paint particles. Relative to the alga, faecal material was highly enriched in Zn, suggesting that the animal is able to rapidly eliminate this metal, most likely through the formation and egestion of insoluble phosphate granules. Thus, L. littorea is a useful biomonitor of marine contamination by antifouling applications in respect of Cu but not Zn.  相似文献   

Resource partitioning by two large planktivorous fishes Micromesistius australis and Macruronus magellanicus in the Southwest Atlantic     

Paul Brickle  Alexander I. ArkhipkinVladimir Laptikhovsky  Andrew StocksAlison Taylor 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2009

The ontogenetic, seasonal, bathymetric and regional variations in the feeding spectrum of 922 specimens of southern blue whiting Micromesistius australis and 512 specimens of hoki Macruronus magellanicus were studied on the Falkland Islands’ shelf (Southwest Atlantic) between November 1999 and April 2003. A total of 49 different prey items were found in the stomach contents of the two species, with the hyperiid Themisto gaudichaudii and Euphausiacea being amongst the most important prey. Although the species composition did not change over fish size, the proportions of individual prey items in their diets did, with an increase in T. gaudichaudii and Euphausiacea with increasing fish size in southern blue whiting. The opposite occurred in hoki. Seasonal variations in the diet were found to mirror the seasonal abundance of prey around the Falkland Islands for the two species. Intra-specific differences in the diet of both predators reflected the distribution of prey, which in turn was determined by the water structure in the two regions sampled, leading to very different diets. In the limited time that the two species occupied the same space there was little or no competition resulting in almost total segregation of their trophic niches in space and time.  相似文献   

Corrigendum to “Climatological mean and decadal change in surface ocean pCO₂, and net sea–air CO₂ flux over the global oceans” [Deep Sea Res. II 56 (2009) 554–577]     

Taro Takahashi  Stewart C. Sutherland  Rik Wanninkhof  Colm Sweeney  Richard A. Feely  David W. Chipman  Burke Hales  Gernot Friederich  Francisco Chavez  Christopher Sabine  Andrew Watson  Dorothee C.E. Bakker  Ute Schuster  Nicolas Metzl  Hisayuki Yoshikawa-Inoue  Masao Ishii  Takashi Midorikawa  Yukihiro Nojiri  Arne Krtzinger  Tobias Steinhoff  Mario Hoppema  Jon Olafsson  Thorarinn S. Arnarson  Bronte Tilbrook  Truls Johannessen  Are Olsen  Richard Bellerby  C.S. Wong  Bruno Delille  N.R. Bates  Hein J.W. de Baar 《Deep Sea Research Part I: Oceanographic Research Papers》2009,56(11):2075-2076

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Paving the way for a future underwater omni-directional wireless optical communication systems     

Greg Baiden  Yassiah Bissiri  Andrew Masoti 《Ocean Engineering》2009,36(9-10):633-640

To lay down the foundation for an underwater omni-directional optical communication system for tele-operation, we tested a point-to-point optical communication system, using laser-emitting diodes (LEDs). The LEDs used in the test emitted light in the green and blue light spectrum and were tested in a pool and in a tank filled with lake water. The primary objective of these tests was to get profiles of the behaviors of such communication systems with respect to water characteristics such as turbidity levels, prior to building the proposed omni-directional optical communication. The results of the tests indicated that turbidity level, viewing angle and separation distance plays a significant role in the behavior of blue light in water. Furthermore, it was possible to graph the profile of the behavior of light with respect to the parameters of interest. The results of the tests and related research are discussed in this paper.  相似文献   

Palaeolithic Sites of East Anglia,John Wymer, 1985, Geo-Books,Norwich, UK, 440 pp. $64.75 (hardbound), $45.50 (paperbound)     

Andrew Woodcock 《Geoarchaeology》1988,3(3):241-241

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Seafloor Geomorphology and Processes on the Western Continental Margin of India based on Multibeam Acoustic Backscatter Data Analysis     

Sumanta Dandapath  Andrew Menezes  Bishwajit Chakraborty  John Kurian  Koppella N. Prudhvi Raju 《Marine Geodesy》2018,41(2):177-200

An assessment of the multibeam sonar data of the central Western Continental Margins of India has been carried out to evaluate the seafloor geomorphology and processes by examining the geomorphological attributes e.g., slope, sediments, structures, etc. associated with geomorphic features. The variation in relief and the features located in the region have been mapped and interpreted collectively by utilizing several geospatial mapping tools. The backscatter strength across the area, apparently congruent with the local relief, has helped to examine the sediment movement on the seafloor. The prominent features found in the region include faults, pockmarks, mounds, submarine terraces, and submerged fossil reefs. Several areas with varying topography engender comparable fractal dimension at short scale breaks, and the probability density functions (PDFs) utilizing backscatter data depicting overlapping classes. The present study highlights how fractals and scale break parameters can be utilized to determine the seafloor processes and associated sedimentological dynamics in a complex geographical environment with strong bottom currents, seasonal upwelling, and faulted structure. The role and impact of the various geomorphic processes on the reworking of sediment movement and the overall progression of the seafloor morphology has been revealed for the first time in this part of the ocean bottom.  相似文献