Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone     

Gu Jialong Shen Xianrong Professor  Hohai University  Nanjing Engineer  The Investigation  Design Institute  Bureau of Communications of Zhejiang Province  Hangzhou 《中国海洋工程》1991,(2)

In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches.  相似文献   

亚热带沿海景观的旅游保护性开发及建设探讨--以福建沿海为例     

翁毅  周永章  张伟强  储德平 《台湾海峡》2006,25(2):285-294

依据地貌学和风景学的角度,福建沿海景观以闽江口和九龙江口为界可分为3个景观亚区,并具有多样性与复杂性、动态性与脆弱性和关联性与分异性等特征.本文运用景观生态的原理研究沿海景观的构成与格局,在沿海景观的分类和特征概括的基础上,探讨福建沿海景观旅游开发与建设的模式.通过维护沿海景观系统的稳定,优化沿海各景观亚区的分布格局,提高沿海景观的整体舒适性和挖掘文化景观的内涵等应对措施以实现福建沿海旅游的科学发展.  相似文献   

A New Pursuit Mode of Nonlinear Wave Surface     

孙大鹏李玉成  郭海滨 《中国海洋工程》2004,18(2):257-266

The numerical mode of nonlinear wave transformation based on both the Laplace equation for water field and the Bemoulli equation for water surface is a kind of time-domain boundary problem with initial conditions. And the basis for establishing the numerical mode of nonlinear wave in time domain is to trace the position of wave free surface and to calculale the instantaneous surface height and surface potential function. This paper firstly utilizes the ‘0-1‘ combined BEM to separate the boundary by means of discretization of Green‘ s integral equation based on the Laplace equation, then separates the free surface of wave with FEM and derives the FEM equation of wave surface that satisfies the nonlinear boundary conditions. By jointly solving the above BEM and FEM equations, the wave potential and surface height could be obtained with iteration in time domain. Thus a new kind of nonlinear numerical mode is established for calculating wave transformation. The wave test in the numerical wave tank shows that the numerical simulation with this mode is of high accuracy.  相似文献   

WWATCH模式模拟南海海浪场的结果分析   总被引：25，自引：3，他引：25       下载免费PDF全文

齐义泉  朱伯承  施平  毛庆文  范辰五 《海洋学报》2003,25(4):1-9

利用美国NOAA/NCEP环境模拟中心海洋模拟小组近年新开发的一个准业务化的海浪数值模式WAVEWATCH Ⅲ(以下简称WWATCH),以每天4次的NOAA/NCEP再分析风场资料为输入,模拟了1996年的南海海域的海面风浪场,通过分析TOPEX/Poseidon(以下简称T/P)高度计的上升和下降轨道在南海海域的交叉点位置处的风、浪观测资料与NCEP风场和WWATCH模式模拟的有效波高大小,可以看出,NCEP风场基本与T/P高度计的风速观测结果一致,相应的模式模拟的有效波高也基本与卫星高度计的有效波高观测结果相一致,但从空间上看,在计算区域中心附近海域的结果一致性较好,靠近计算边界附近海域的结果相对较差,但这种因边界而影响模拟结果的范围很有限;从时间上看,冬季风期间的结果一致性较好,而夏季风期间的结果偏小的趋势明显,并且这种偏小主要出现在夏季风期间的极小风速值附近。  相似文献   

企鹅珍珠贝游离珠插核过程中死亡因素初探   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

毛勇  梁飞龙  余祥勇  叶富良 《海洋湖沼通报》2004,(1):74-79

本文通过企鹅珍珠贝游离珠插核过程中的一系列对比实验,首次探讨了施术贝死亡过高的原因.发现术前处理时间太长造成的贝体虚弱会增加死亡率;施术伤口对贝体造成的生理不适如能及时得以恢复,不会因此发生大规模的死亡;偏小的核位、较厚的核位皮层肌肉以及由之产生的较强的排异反应会严重影响企鹅珍珠贝施术贝的成活率;休养时提倡先室内休养10d左右再移至海区,且不必添加昂贵的抗生素.  相似文献   

Characteristics of Scour and Deposition in Front of Breakwaters Under Irregular Broken Clapotis   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

高学平张亚  李昌良 《中国海洋工程》2004,18(3):493-500

First the scour and deposition patterns of the sandy seabed in front of a vertical breakwater under the action of irregular broken clapotis are investigated experimentally and classified into five types: scour type Ⅰ , scour type Ⅱ, scour type Ⅲ, deposition type Ⅰ, and deposition type Ⅱ . Secondly, the processes of formation of scour and deposition patterns are probed in comparison with those induced by regular broken clapotis and standing waves. Thirdly, the criteria for distinguishing scour and deposition patterns under irregular broken clapotis are presented.  相似文献   

0102号台风"飞燕"移动路径特点的分析   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

刘爱鸣  林毅  李泓浩 《台湾海峡》2003,22(1):102-107

2001年2号台风“飞燕”登陆早、强度大、移速快、突发性强给福建中部沿海地区带来巨大损失。本文利用常规资料及云图等资料对其登陆福建及后期路径北折的特点及成因进行分析，结果表明：200hPa散度、850hPa涡度及低层能量场对台风路径北折有比较好的预示作用，台风未来移向有沿着200hPa其中心附近辐散中心长轴方向、850hPa正涡度长轴方向及低层暖平流区和850hPa θse高能中心轴移动的趋势。  相似文献   

合浦珠母贝26S蛋白酶体S4,S7亚基基因片段的分离与分析     

姜铁民  张勇  黄洁  谢莉萍  吴移谋  张荣庆 《海洋科学》2003,27(4):28-34

26S蛋白酶体是真核生物中一种具有ATP依赖性的蛋白酶复合体,主要通过泛肽途径选择性降解细胞内与代谢调控、细胞周期有关的功能蛋白及异常蛋白,参与多种细胞活动的调控过程。26S蛋白酶体由具有催化活性的20S亚复合体和一个具有调节作用的19S亚复合体组成,其中19S亚复合体中的ATP酶亚基是调节26S蛋白酶体活性的重要组件。本通过简并引物PCR手段,从软体动物合浦珠母贝(Pinctada fucata)中扩增到参与构成19S亚复合体的S4和S7(MSS1)两个亚基的基因片段。这两个基因片段所编码的ATP酶组件包含有Gx4GKT,DEID,SAT和H／QRxGRxxR等26S蛋白酶体ATP酶亚基的共同功能基序。这是首次在软体动物中报道26S蛋白酶体的ATP酶亚基基因序列,为研究软体动物中26S蛋白酶体的结构与功能奠定了分子基础。  相似文献   

Modeling of Multi-Freedom Ship Motions in Irregular Waves with Fuzzy Neural Networks     

余建星  陆培毅  高喜峰  夏锦祝 《中国海洋工程》2003,17(2)

1 .IntroductionAshiptravelingatseaundergoesundesirablewave inducedmotions ,namely ,surge ,sway ,heav ing ,rolling ,pitchingandyaw .Thesemotionsoftencauseproblemstothecrew ,theonboardequip mentand ,intheworstcase ,thesafetyofthevessel.Tominimizethewave inducedshipmotions ,controlsystemsmaybeapplied .Theaccuratemodelingofshipmotionsisthereforeveryimportantforshipdesignanddesignofmotioncontrolsystems .Manyresearchershavedevelopedshipmotionpredictionmethodsbasedonthepotentialflowtheo ries (Dong ,…  相似文献   

Modal Wave Number Tomography for South China Sea Front   总被引：10，自引：0，他引：10  

彭临慧  王宁  邱晓芳  田纪伟 《中国海洋工程》2003,17(2)

1 .IntroductionTheSouthChinaSealiestothesoutheastpartoftheChinesecontinent.TheKuroshioflowsbytheeastsideoftheLuzonStraitfromsouthtonorthinwinter ,spring ,andautumn .TheKuroshioaf fectsnearcurrentfieldsandtemperaturefields,changingtheoceanenvironmentparametersandsoundpropagation .Thus ,theoceanacoustictomographytechniqueisofpotentialtolong term ,largescalemonitoringoftheocean .Themodalwavenumbertomographymethod (Rajanetal.,1 987;Frisketal.,1 989)isusedtoobtainthesoundspeedprofileinwatercol…  相似文献