Magnitude and cross-shore distribution of bed return flow measured on natural beaches     

Gerhard Masselink  Kerry P. Black 《Coastal Engineering》1995,25(3-4)

Field measurements of cross-shore currents 0.25 m from the bed were made on two natural beaches under a range of incident wave conditions. The results indicated the presence of a relatively strong, offshore-directed mean current, both within and seaward of the surf zone. Typical velocities within the surf zone were of the order of 0.2–0.3 m/s. This bed return flow, or “undertow”, represents a mass conservation response, returning water seaward that was initially transported onshore in the upper water column, primarily above the trough of the incident waves. The measurements demonstrated that the bed return flow velocity increases with the incident wave height. In addition, the crossshore distribution of the bed return flow is characterised by a mid-surf zone maximum, which exhibits a strong decrease in velocity towards the shoreline and a more gradual decay in the offshore direction. Several bed return flow models based on mass continuity were formulated to predict the cross-shore distribution of the bed return flow under an irregular wave field and were compared with the field data. Best agreement was obtained using shallow water linear wave theory, after including the mass transport associated with unbroken waves. The contribution of the unbroken waves enables net offshore-directed bottom currents to persist outside the region of breaking waves, providing a mechanism, other than rip currents, to transport sediment offshore beyond the surf zone.  相似文献   

Deposit Feeding and Sediment:     

Rainer M. W.  Amon Gerhard J.  Herndl 《Marine Ecology》1991,12(2):175-184

Abstract. The feeding of the epibenthic deposit-feeder Holothuria tubulosa GMELIN and its influence on sediment metabolism was investigated from February 1988 to February 1989. Water samples, specimens of H. tubulosa , and samples of freshly egested feces were taken by SCUBA diving in a 5 m deep seagrass bed at the Island of Ischia in the Gulf of Naples (Italy). Particulate organic carbon (POC), particulate organic nitrogen (PON), total particulate carbohydrates (PCHO), and bacterial biomass exhibited higher values in the foregut than in the surrounding sediment. Even the freshly egested feces were richer in the organic components than the sediment. The percentage of growing bacterial cells increased from 4.1 % in the sediment to 12.2 % in the foregut and declined to 11.6 % in the hindgut and 6.2 % in freshly egested feces.
On an annual average, absorption efficiency was highest for bacteria (x = 71%); for PON we calculated a mean absorption efficiency of 20.9%, for PCHO 19.5%. It was estimated that bacterial biomass supplied between 4 and 25 % of the respiratory carbon demand of H. tubulosa. We present evidence that the feeding activity of H. tubulosa stabilizes the bacterial community in the sediment. Furthermore, our data indicate that H. tubulosa reacts quickly to changing conditions, such as sedimented phytoplankton blooms.  相似文献   

Morphodynamics of intertidal bar morphology on a macrotidal beach under low-energy wave conditions, North Lincolnshire, England     

Aart Kroon  Gerhard Masselink 《Marine Geology》2002,190(3-4):591-608

The morphological changes of multiple intertidal bars (ridges) on a macrotidal beach were examined under low-energy wave conditions during a spring-to-spring tidal cycle. The morphological response was coupled to the tidal water level variations and related residence times for swash processes and surf (breaking waves and bores) over the cross-shore profile. Spring tides induced a large spatial variation in water lines and small residence times for distinct processes. Neap tides narrowed the intertidal area and increased the time for certain processes to work on the sediment at one location. The observed morphological changes could be coupled to the stagnation of processes at a certain bar crest position. The action of surf (breaking waves and bores) played the major role in the onshore migration of the intertidal bars and the simultaneous erosion of the seaward flank. Swash action, responsible for the generation and migration of intertidal bars in microtidal settings, was not the dominant process in causing the observed morphological changes. Intertidal ridges on macrotidal beaches cannot be considered swash bars as suggested by most previous investigations into these morphological features.  相似文献   

Ambiguity resolution strategies using the results of the International GPS Geodynamics Service (IGS)     

Leoš Mervart  Gerhard Beutler  Markus Rothacher  Urs Wild 《Journal of Geodesy》1994,68(1):29-38

Resolving the initial phase ambiguities of GPS carrier phase observations was always considered an important aspect of GPS processing techniques. Resolution of the so-called wide-lane ambiguities using a special linear combination of theL ₁ andL ₂ carrier and code observations has become standard. New aspects have to be considered today: (1) Soon AS, the so-called Anti-Spoofing, will be turned on for all Block II spacecrafts. This means that precise code observations will be no longer available, which in turn means that the mentioned approach to resolve the wide-lane ambiguities will fail. (2) Most encouraging is the establishment of the new International GPS Geodynamics Service (IGS), from where high quality orbits, earth rotation parameters, and eventually also ionospheric models will be available. We are reviewing the ambiguity resolution problem under these new aspects: We look for methods to resolve the initial phase ambiguities without using code observations but using high quality orbits and ionospheric models from IGS, and we study the resolution of the narrow-lane ambiguities (after wide-lane ambiguity resolution) using IGS orbits.  相似文献   

Der Einfluß der Küstengestalt und des vorgelagerten Meeresbodens auf den windbedingten Anstau des Wassers an der deutschen Nordseeküste zwischen Ems und Elbe     

Gerhard Tomczak 《Ocean Dynamics》1952,5(5-6):277-284

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Über die komplexe Natur des Seeganges     

Gerhard Neumann 《Ocean Dynamics》1952,5(2-3):95-110

Zusammenfassung Seegangserscheinungen lassen sich durch eine einzelne Hauptwelle (significant wave) bzw. durch eine mittlere Periode oder Wellenlänge und -höhe nicht ausreichend genau beschreiben. Im allgemeinen treten in der Aufeinanderfolge der Wellen an einem festen Ort mehrere Perioden mit großer Streuung auf, die das Periodenspektrum in ein mehr oder weniger breites Periodenband auseinanderziehen, dessen Breite und Begrenzung von der Windstärke abhängt. Beobachtungen am winderzeugten Seegang scheinen neben Überlagerungen von untergeordneter Bedeutung die gleichzeitige Existenz von drei charakteristischen Wellen anzudeuten. Die besondere Struktur des vom Wind aufgeworfenen Seeganges mit den Schwankungen in der Wellenlänge und Höhe, die von Interferenzerscheinungen geprägt werden, ist für die Wirkung des Windes auf die Meeresoberfläche typisch. Es wird versucht, die Grundzüge der für den Seegang typischen Erscheinungen und die Schwankungen der Perioden und Höhen aufeinanderfolgender Seen im komplexen Seegang aus der gleichzeitigen Existenz der drei Hauptwellen zu erklären.

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On the complexity of wind waves

Summary The phenomenon of wind generated waves cannot be sufficiently characterized by coordinating a single significant wave or a mean period or wave length and height to each step of the scale of wind waves. In general, in successive waves passing a given point there are found to occur several considerably scattering periods by which the spectrum of periods is more or less converted into a broad band of periods whose breadth and limitation depend on the strength of wind. Observations of wind produced waves seem to indicate the coexistence of three characteristic waves in addition to superpositions of minor importance. The special character of the wind produced seaway with its varying wave lengths and heights caused by interference phenomena is typical of the wind's effect on the sea surface. An attempt is made to show that the basic features of the typical phenomena and the variations in the periods and heights of successive wind waves within the complex sea may be ascribed to the co-existence of the three dominating waves.

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Au sujet de la complexité des vagues de vent

Résumé On ne peut pas suffisamment caractériser le phénomène des vagues de vent en rapportant une seule onde principale (onde significative — significant wave) ou une période moyenne (ou une longueur moyenne) et une amplitude moyenne à chaque degré de l'échelle des vagues. Dans la consécution des ondulations passant un point donné il y a, en général, plusieurs périodes d'une dispersion considérable qui transforment le spectre de périodes en une gamme de périodes qui est plus ou moins large et dont la largeur et la limite dépendent de la force du vent. Des observations récentes de vagues de vent semblent indiquer la coexistence de trois ondes caractéristiques à côté de nombreuses superpositions moins significatives. La structure particulière des vagues telle qu'elle se développe sous l'action du vent et ses variations en longueur et en amplitude qui sont essentiellement causées par le phénomène d'interférence montre l'effet typique du vent. L'auteur essaie de dériver de la coexistence des trois ondes principales les éléments des phénomènes typiques des vagues de vent ainsi que les variations des périodes et celles des amplitudes des ondulations consécutives se présentant dans la complexité de la mer du vent.

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Die Möglichkeit zur Durchführung der Arbeiten auf See verdanke ich dem freundlichen Entgegenkommen der Direktion der Reederei A. Bolten, Hamburg, und der Hamburg-Amerika Linie, die mir die Teilnahme an einer Reise nach Westindien auf dem M.S. Heidberg gestatteten. An dieser Stelle möchte ich besonders dem Reeder Herrn Arthur Binder (Reederei Bolten) und Herrn Direktor Lüthjens (Hamburg-Amerika Linie) meinen Dank für die großzügige Unterstützung aussprechen, die mir zuteil wurde. Die Arbeiten an Bord wurden durch verständnisvolle Hilfe von Seiten der Schiffsleitung sehr gefördert. Ich bin dem Kapitän des Schiffes, Herrn H. Haase und seinen Offizieren, sowie Herrn Kapitän R. Cammann (Hamburg-Amerika Linie) zu großem Dank verpflichtet. Herrn Oberregierungsrat a. D. Kapitän G. Schröder danke ich für seine Hilfe bei den Vorbereitungen zur Reise.  相似文献   

Dependency of geodynamic parameters on the GNSS constellation     

Stefano Scaramuzza  Rolf Dach  Gerhard Beutler  Daniel Arnold  Andreja Sušnik  Adrian Jäggi 《Journal of Geodesy》2018,92(1):93-104

Significant differences in time series of geodynamic parameters determined with different Global Navigation Satellite Systems (GNSS) exist and are only partially explained. We study whether the different number of orbital planes within a particular GNSS contributes to the observed differences by analyzing time series of geocenter coordinates (GCCs) and pole coordinates estimated from several real and virtual GNSS constellations: GPS, GLONASS, a combined GPS/GLONASS constellation, and two virtual GPS sub-systems, which are obtained by splitting up the original GPS constellation into two groups of three orbital planes each. The computed constellation-specific GCCs and pole coordinates are analyzed for systematic differences, and their spectral behavior and formal errors are inspected. We show that the number of orbital planes barely influences the geocenter estimates. GLONASS’ larger inclination and formal errors of the orbits seem to be the main reason for the initially observed differences. A smaller number of orbital planes may lead, however, to degradations in the estimates of the pole coordinates. A clear signal at three cycles per year is visible in the spectra of the differences between our estimates of the pole coordinates and the corresponding IERS 08 C04 values. Combinations of two 3-plane systems, even with similar ascending nodes, reduce this signal. The understanding of the relation between the satellite constellations and the resulting geodynamic parameters is important, because the GNSS currently under development, such as the European Galileo and the medium Earth orbit constellation of the Chinese BeiDou system, also consist of only three orbital planes.  相似文献   

射流泵系统在非开挖HDD中的应用研究          下载免费PDF全文

朱俊毅  孙平贺  曹函  Gerhard Lang  张绍和  王靖源 《探矿工程》2018,45(10):11-15

非开挖HDD技术被广泛应用于给排水、电力、通信、油气等领域的新管道敷设和既有管线修复中。当在浅部地层以及上覆地层应力较小的区域进行HDD施工时,易出现“溢浆”现象。本文结合国内外“溢浆”防控技术研究现状,对德国某公司的孔内新型射流泵系统在非开挖工程中的应用进行了论述。该系统利用在近钻头位置安装的高压射流泵系统收集前端钻头扩孔后形成的钻屑,从而减少钻孔环状空间的钻屑含量。系统主要由钻屑收集装置、射流泵体和连接装置3部分组成,可实现98%左右孔内钻屑的清理。根据工程需要,可采用清孔、软土扩(清)孔、组合以及管道回拉等4种模式进行工程作业。工程实践表明,采用该系统后单日最长掘进长度达到122 m。同时提出了存在的问题：由于小直径复杂地层钻进中易出现钻屑团积,从而对筛格产生堵塞。在管道回拉模式中,如何改变钻屑返排的回路等问题仍是该系统在应用中亟待解决的关键问题。  相似文献   

Carbonate drifts as marine archives of aeolian dust (Santaren Channel,Bahamas)     

Sebastian Lindhorst  Christian Betzler  Marco Wunsch  Thomas Lüdmann  Gerhard Kuhn 《Sedimentology》2019,66(4):1386-1409

Sediment data from the Bahamian Santaren carbonate drift reveal the variability of trans‐Atlantic Saharan dust transport back to about 100 ka bp (Marine Isotope Stage 5·3) and demonstrate that carbonate drifts are a valuable pelagic archive of aeolian dust flux. Carbonate drift bodies are common around tropical carbonate platforms; they represent large‐scale accumulations of ocean‐current transported material, which originates from the adjacent shallow‐water carbonate factory as well as from pelagic production, i.e. periplatform ooze. Subordinately, there is a clay‐size to silt‐size non‐carbonate fraction, which typically amounts to less than 10% of the sediment volume and originates from aeolian and fluvial input. Sedimentation rates in the 5·42 m long core GeoHH‐M95‐524 recovered 25 km west of Great Bahama Bank in the Santaren Channel ranges from 1·5 to 24·5 cm ka^?1 with lowest values during the last glacial lowstand and highest values following platform re‐flooding around 8 ka bp . These sedimentation rates imply that carbonate drifts have not only the potential to resolve long‐term environmental changes on orbital timescales, but also millennial to centennial fluctuations during interglacials. The sediment core has been investigated with the aim of characterizing the lithogenic dust fraction. Laboratory analyses included X‐ray fluorescence core scanning, determination of carbonate content and grain‐size analyses (of bulk and terrigenous fraction), as well as visual inspections of the lithogenic residue; the age model is based on oxygen isotopes and radiocarbon ages. Data show that the input of aeolian dust in the periplatform ooze as indicated by Ti/Al and Fe/Al element ratios abruptly increases at 57 ka bp , stays elevated during glacial times, and reaches a Holocene minimum around 6·5 ka bp , contemporary to the African Humid Period. Subsequently, there is a gradual increase in dust flux which almost reaches glacial levels during the last centuries. Grain‐size data show that the majority of dust particles fall into the fine silt range (below 10 μm); however, there is a pronounced coarse dust fraction in the size range up to 63 μm and individual ‘giant’ dust particles are up to 515 μm in size. Total dust flux and the relative amounts of fine and coarse dust are decoupled. The time‐variable composition of the grain‐size spectrum is interpreted to reflect different dust transport mechanisms: fine dust particles are delivered by the trade winds and the geostrophic winds of the Saharan Air Layer, whereas coarse dust particles travel with convective storm systems. This mode of transport ensures continuous re‐suspension of large particles and results in a prolonged transport. In this context, grain‐size data from the terrigenous fraction of carbonate drifts provide a measure for past coarse dust transport, and consequently for the frequency of convective storm systems over the dust source areas and the tropical Atlantic.  相似文献   

The Tolerable Windows Approach: Theoretical and Methodological Foundations   总被引：4，自引：4，他引：0  

Gerhard Petschel-Held  Hans-Joachim Schellnhuber  Thomas Bruckner  Ferenc L. Tóth  Klaus Hasselmann 《Climatic change》1999,41(3-4):303-331

The tolerable windows (TW) approach is presented as a novel scheme for integrated assessment of climate change. The TW approach is based on the specification of a set of guardrails for climate evolution which refer to various climate-related attributes. These constraints, which define what we call tolerable windows, can be purely systemic in nature – like critical thresholds for the North Atlantic Deep Water formation – or of a normative type – like minimum standards for per-capita food production worldwide. Starting from this catalogue of knock-out criteria and using appropriate modeling techniques, those policy strategies which are compatible with all the constraints specified are sought to be identified. In addition to the discussion of the basic elements and the general theory of the TW approach, a modeling exercise is carried out, based on simple models and assumptions adopted from the German Advisory Council on Global Change (WBGU). The analysis shows that if the global mean temperature is restricted to 2°C beyond the preindustrial level, the cumulative emissions of CO2 are asymptotically limited to about 1550 Gt C. Yet the temporal distribution of these emissions is also determined by the climate and socio-economic constraints: using, for example, a maximal tolerable rate of temperature change of 0.2°C/dec and a smoothly varying emissions profile, we obtain the maximal cumulative emissions, amounting to 370 Gt C in 2050 and 585 Gt C in 2100.  相似文献