The morphodynamic modelling of tidal sand waves on the shoreface     

P.K. Tonnon  L.C. van Rijn  D.J.R. Walstra 《Coastal Engineering》2007

An artificial sand wave on the Dutch shoreface of the North Sea has been studied in conditions with relatively strong tidal currents in the range of 0.5 to 1 m/s and sediments in the medium sand size range of 0.2 to 0.5 mm. The sand wave is perpendicular to the tidal current and has a maximum height and length of the order of 5 m and 1 km, respectively. The sand wave is dynamically active and shows migration rates of the order of a few metres per year. A numerical morphodynamic model (DELFT3D model) has been used to simulate the morphological behaviour of the sand wave in the North Sea. This model approach is based on the numerical solution of the three-dimensional shallow water equations in combination with a surface wave propagation model (wind waves) and the advection–diffusion equation for the sediment particles with online bed updating after each time step. The model results show that the sand wave grows in the case of dominant bed-load transport (weak tidal currents; relatively coarse sediment; small roughness height; low waves) and that the sand wave decays in the case of dominant suspended transport (strong currents, relatively fine sediment, large roughness height; storm waves).  相似文献   

Estimating the underwater light field from remote sensing of ocean color     

Cheng-Chien Liu  Richard L. Miller  Kendall L. Carder  Zhongping Lee  Eurico J. D’Sa  James E. Ivey 《Journal of Oceanography》2006,62(3):235-248

We present a new approach that incorporates two models to estimate the underwater light field from remote sensing of ocean color. The first employs a series of analytical, semi-analytical, and empirical algorithms to retrieve the spectrum of inherent optical properties (IOPs), including the absorption and the backscatter coefficients, from the spectrum of remote sensing reflectance. The second model computes the profile of photosynthetically available radiation E _0,PAR (z) for a vertically homogeneous water column using the information of the retrieved IOPs and the ambient optical environment. This computation is based on an improved look-up table technology that possesses high accuracy, comparable with the full solution of the radiative transfer equation, and meets the computational requirement of remote sensing application. This new approach was validated by in situ measurements and an extensive model-to-model comparison with a wide range of IOPs. We successfully mapped the compensation depth by applying this new approach to process the SeaWiFS imagery. This research suggests that E _0,PAR (z) can be obtained routinely from ocean-color data and may have significant implications for the estimation of global heat and carbon budget.  相似文献   

Spatial variation in abundance and catch composition of Cancer pagurus in Norwegian waters: biological reasoning and implications for assessment     

Woll  Astrid K.; van der Meeren  Gro I.; Fossen  Inge 《ICES Journal of Marine Science》2006,63(3):421-433

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Description of the post larva of star pipefish,halicampus punctatus (syngnathidae, gasterosteiformes) first found in the southwestern east sea, Korea     

Sung Kim  Jina Oh  Youn -Ho Lee 《Ocean Science Journal》2006,41(4):201-205

Larval specimens ofHalicampus punctatus were collected off Ulsan and Uljin in December 2002 (three specimens) and off Ulsan in December 2003 (one specimen). These specimens are characterized by the following morphological characteristics: rings, 14 + 35 = 49; subdorsal rings, 1 + 3 = 4; dorsal fin rays, 19 – 20; pectoral fin rays, 14 – 15; anal fin rays, 9; head length (HL), 5.8 – 6.7 in the standard length; snout length, 1.9 in HL; snout depth, 3.7 – 5.2 in snout length. The number of caudal fin rays 9 is less than those of the other species in the same genus 10. Wide stripe bands composed of small pigments are shown in the trunk and the tail. Melanophores are not found in the dorsal fin, the pectoral fin, and the anal fin except the caudal fin. The supraoccipital crest is on the head. The frontal ridge is on the dorsal side of front trunk. The blanched ridges on the opercular are fused with a main ridge like a tree branch. A few branched ridges that are small and narrow on the trunk and the tail are fused with the main ridges. We report these specimens as the first record in Korea and name them ‘Byeol-silgo-ki’ in Korean.  相似文献   

A comparison of several wave spectra for the random wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater     

Hong Sik Lee  Sung Duk Kim 《Ocean Engineering》2006,33(14-15):1954-1971

A comparison of the diffraction of multidirectional random waves using several selected wave spectrum models is presented in this paper. Six wave spectrum models, Bretschneider, Pierson–Moskowitz, ISSC, ITTC, Mitsuyasu, and JONSWAP spectrum, are considered. A discrete form for each of the given spectrum models is used to specify the incident wave conditions. Analytical solutions based on both the Fresnel integrals and polynomial approximations of the Fresnel integrals and numerical solutions of a boundary integral approach have been used to obtain the two-dimensional wave diffraction by a semi-infinite breakwater at uniform water depth. The diffraction of random waves is based on the cumulative superposition of linear diffraction solution. The results of predicted random wave diffraction for each of the given spectrum models are compared with those of the published physical model presented by Briggs et al. [1995. Wave diffraction around breakwater. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering—ASCE 121(1), 23–35]. Reasonable agreement is obtained in all cases. The effect of the directional spreading function is also examined from the results of the random wave diffraction. Based on these comparisons, the present model for the analysis of various wave spectra is found to be an accurate and efficient tool for predicting the random wave field around a semi-infinite breakwater or inside a harbor of arbitrary geometry in practical applications.  相似文献   

Aliasing due to sampling of the Adriatic temperature, salinity and density in space     

Zoran Pasari&#x;  Mirko Orli&#x;  Craig M. Lee 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2006,69(3-4):636

High-resolution underway temperature and conductivity measurements collected by R/V Knorr during winter and spring 2003 are used to characterize errors associated with spatial aliasing in the northern and central Adriatic Sea. During winter, 99th percentile temperature, salinity and density errors were 0.62 °C, 0.25 and 0.12 kg/m³ (0.25 °C, 0.10 and 0.05 kg/m³) for sampling at 10 km (5 km) horizontal resolution, respectively. The corresponding values in spring were 1.31 °C, 0.50 and 0.40 kg/m³ (0.93 °C, 0.25 and 0.22 kg/m³) for the 10 km (5 km) sample spacing, respectively. The largest errors were associated with energetic regions over the shallow, western Adriatic, in front of the Po River mouth and off the tip of the Istrian peninsula. The deeper eastern basin exhibited smaller errors. The variability of errors in time and space reflected the variability of small-scale density features, characterized by wavelengths as small as 2 km in winter and 1 km in spring and being more pronounced in the western and northern parts of the Adriatic. As these results indicate that errors associated with undersampling can be considerable, they should be taken into account while planning future CTD measurements in the region.  相似文献   

Crustal Thinning of the Northern Continental Margin of the South China Sea   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

Ching-Hui Tsai  Shu-Kun Hsu  Yi-Ching Yeh  Chao-Shing Lee  Kanyuan Xia 《Marine Geophysical Researches》2004,25(1-2):63-78

Magnetic data suggest that the distribution of the oceanic crust in the northern South China Sea (SCS) may extend to about 21 °N and 118.5 °E. To examine the crustal features of the corresponding continent–ocean transition zone, we have studied the crustal structures of the northern continental margin of the SCS. We have also performed gravity modeling by using a simple four-layer crustal model to understand the geometry of the Moho surface and the crustal thicknesses beneath this transition zone. In general, we can distinguish the crustal structures of the study area into the continental crust, the thinned continental crust, and the oceanic crust. However, some volcanic intrusions or extrusions exist. Our results indicate the existence of oceanic crust in the northernmost SCS as observed by magnetic data. Accordingly, we have moved the continent–ocean boundary (COB) in the northeastern SCS from about 19 °N and 119.5 °E to 21 °N and 118.5 °E. Morphologically, the new COB is located along the base of the continental slope. The southeastward thinning of the continental crust in the study area is prominent. The average value of crustal thinning factor of the thinned continental crust zone is about 1.3–1.5. In the study region, the Moho depths generally vary from ca. 28 km to ca. 12 km and the crustal thicknesses vary from ca. 24 km to ca. 6 km; a regional maximum exists around the Dongsha Island. Our gravity modeling has shown that the oceanic crust in the northern SCS is slightly thicker than normal oceanic crust. This situation could be ascribed to the post-spreading volcanism or underplating in this region.  相似文献   

Experimental study of strong reflection of regular water waves over submerged breakwaters in tandem   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

Yong-Sik Cho  Jong-In Lee  Young-Taek Kim   《Ocean Engineering》2004,31(10):88-1335

A series of laboratory experiments was carried out to investigate the strong reflection of regular water waves over a train of submerged breakwaters. Rectangular and trapezoidal shapes of submerged breakwaters are employed and compared for reflecting capability of incident waves. Measured reflection coefficients of regular waves over impermeable submerged breakwaters are verified by comparing with those of the eigenfunction expansion method. A very good agreement is observed. Reflection coefficients of permeable submerged breakwaters are less than those of impermeable breakwaters. The trapezoidal shape is recommended for a submerged breakwater in terms of reflecting capability and practical application.  相似文献   

Trace element fractionation and distribution in turbidites,homogeneous and pelagic deposits; the Zaire Fan,Southeast Atlantic Ocean     

Tjeerd C. E. van Weering  Gerard Th. Klaver 《Geo-Marine Letters》1985,5(3):165-170

In turbidites, homogeneous and pelagic deposits of the Zaire Fan Th, La, Sm, and Rb and to a lesser extent Yb and Ta correlate strongly. La, Sm, Yb, Rb, Ta, and Th increase two-fold in Te3 turbidite intervals relative to Te 1 due to an increase in clay fraction with which these elements occur associated preferentially.Hf and Zr are anomalously high in Tel and Tel intervals which is probably a result of mineral separation. Zr is absent in Te3 intervals and the homogenous and pelagic deposits. Ba, Br. and U are lowest in turbidites and highest in homogenous continental slope deposits which is probably caused by upwelling. Cc anomalies may be related to the crystallinity of smectite.  相似文献   

A time-dependent radiation condition for transient wave-structure interactions     

J.F. Lee  J.W. Leonard 《Ocean Engineering》1987,14(6)

An extrapolated version of a time-dependent nonreflecting boundary condition is developed for use at artificial boundaries to truncate infinite/semi-infinite domains for transient water wave problems. Test examples include single- and multiple-frequency flap wavemaker problems and free vibrations of a floating circular cylinder. The finite element results compare favorably to analytical solutions. It is shown that with the proposed boundary condition the numerical simulations have little reflections from the artificial boundaries.  相似文献