Wave Decay and Its Characteristics in Surf Zone     

Gu Jialong Shen Xianrong Professor  Hohai University  Nanjing Engineer  The Investigation  Design Institute  Bureau of Communications of Zhejiang Province  Hangzhou 《中国海洋工程》1991,(2)

In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches.  相似文献   

Tantulocarida (Crustacea: Maxillopoda): A New Taxon from the Temporary Meiobenthos1     

Rony Huys 《Marine Ecology》1991,12(1):1-34

Abstract. Two new genera of Tantulocarida are described from the Ligurian deep sea (Western Mediterranean) off Corsica. Xenalytus scotophilia is referred to the Microdajidae and differs from Microdajus GREVE in thoracopodal segmentation as well as in the presence of coupling spines on thoracopod 6 and longitudinal lamellae on the cephalic shield. Aphotocentor styx is placed in the Deoterthridae and holds an intermediate position between Deoterthron BRADFORD & HEWITT and Boreotantulus HI/YS & BOXSHALL. Some aspects of cephalon internal structure are described for the first time and give a possible explanation for the mechanism of stylet protrusion. The external structures of the oral disc are described using SEM. The discovery of well-developed muscles in the trunk and thoracopods is discussed in the light of the benthic phase the tantulus passes through. The boundary between the thorax and abdomen in the tantulus is reinterpreted, corroborating the 5–7-5 bodyplan of the hypothetical urmaxillopodan as found in the Upper Cambrian Skaracarida and possibly also Dala peilertae MOLLER. Some aspects related to dispersal, infection, and feeding are reinterpreted or approached from a different perspective. SEM of Microdajus langi GREVE gives evidence that the tantuli hatch via a conspicuous slit located at the posterior end of the female trunk sac. A worldwide key to the tantulocaridan families and genera is given, and distributional records are compiled. It is suggested that Tantulocarida might be common representatives of the temporary meiobenthos and that their present species number represents only the tip of the iceberg.  相似文献   

Reliability-Based Optimal Design for Very Large Floating Structure     

张淑华 《中国海洋工程》2003,17(1)

1 .ＩｎｔｒｏｄｕｃｔｉｏｎＴｈｅａｐｐｒａｉｓａｌｏｆａｇｏｏｄｄｅｓｉｇｎｆｏｒａｖｅｒｙｌａｒｇｅｆｌｏａｔｉｎｇｓｔｒｕｃｔｕｒｅ(ＶＬＦＳ)ｔｈａｔｗｉｌｌｓｅｒｖｅｉｎａｓｐｅｃｉ ｆｉｅｄｏｃｅａｎａｒｅａｒｅｑｕｉｒｅｓｔｈａｔｔｈｅｓｔｒｕｃｔｕｒａｌｓｙｓｔｅｍｂｅｅｃｏｎｏｍｉｃａｌｌｙｄｅｓｉｇｎｅｄ ,ｔｈｅｒｅｑｕｉｒｅｍｅｎｔｓｆｏｒｉｔｓｆｕｎｃｔｉｏｎｂｅｓａｔｉｓｆｉｅｄａｎｄｔｈｅｓｔｒｕｃｔｕｒｅｋｅｅｐｓｓｔａｂｌｅｉｎｉｔｓｗｈｏｌｅｓｅｒｖｉｃｅｐｅｒｉｏ…  相似文献   

Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone     

P. Bonneton   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(10):1459-1471

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.  相似文献   

First results from the North Iceland experiment     

C. Riedel  A. Tryggvason  B. Brandsdottír  T. Dahm  R. Stéfansson  M. Hensch  R. Böðvarsson  K. S. Vogfjord  S. Jakobsdottír  T. Eken  R. Herber  J. Holmjarn  M. Schnese  M. Thölen  B. Hofmann  B. Sigurdsson  S. Winter 《Marine Geophysical Researches》2006,27(4):267-281

Between June 2004 and September 2004 a temporary seismic network was installed on the northern insular shelf of Iceland and onshore in north Iceland. The seismic setup aimed at resolving the subsurface structure and, thus, the geodynamical transition from Icelandic crust to typical oceanic crust along Kolbeinsey Ridge. The experiment recorded about 1,000 earthquakes. The region encloses the Tjörnes Fracture Zone containing the Husavik–Flatey strike-slip fault and the extensional seismic Grimsey Lineament. Most of the seismicity occurs in swarms offshore. Preliminary results reveal typical mid-ocean crust north of Grimsey and a heterogeneous structure with major velocity anomalies along the seismic lineaments and north–south trending subsurface features. Complementary bathymetric mapping highlight numerous extrusion features along the Grimsey Lineament and Kolbeinsey Ridge. The seismic dataset promises to deliver new insights into the tectonic framework for earthquakes in an extensional transform zone along the global mid-ocean ridge system.  相似文献   

渤海湾沿岸泥炭沼泽形成机制与时空分布   总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4  

李汉鼎  王升忠 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》1995,15(2):11-16

渤海湾沿岸的海陆过渡带，优越的水文地理环境有利于泥炭沼泽的形成与发育。海洋海退导致的海岸线变迁，是控制泥炭沼泽发育时间和空间分布的主导因素。间冰期和冰后期的海面上升期间，自海向陆发育了海侵基底泥炭；中全新世高海面期，在山前扇缘洼地和沟谷有泥炭沼泽发育；晚全新世海面下降期，泥炭沼泽主要发育在沿岸的海湾、泻湖、三角洲汊河间洼地及平原上的河滩、阶地、古河道等地。  相似文献   

沿海城市海水入侵问题研究   总被引：5，自引：0，他引：5  

丁玲  李碧英  张树深 《海洋技术学报》2003,22(2):79-83

近年来，沿海城市的海水入侵问题逐渐成为人们关心的焦点之一。文章通过资料搜集与整理，对沿海城市的海水入侵状况作了全面描述与分析。系统地总结了海水入侵的若干特点及海水入侵的成因分析与规律，较为详细的分析了海水入侵的基本事实、基本矛盾和各发展阶段的发展原因，在此基础上总结了海水入侵的基本理论。为进一步的研究打下良好的基础。  相似文献   

A modelling study of ecosystem dynamics and nutrient cycling in the Humber plume, UK     

J. I. Allen   《Journal of Sea Research》1997,38(3-4)

The European Regional Seas Ecosystem Model (ERSEM) has been coupled with a two-dimensional depth-averaged transport model of the Humber plume region and run to simulate 1988–1989. Simulations of the spatial and temporal variations in chlorophyll-a, nitrate, phosphate and suspended particulate matter distributions in winter, spring and summer show how the development of the spring bloom and subsequent maintenance of primary production is controlled by the physicochemical environment of the plume zone. Results are also shown for two stations, one characterised by the high nutrient and suspended matter concentrations of the plume and the other by the relatively low nutrient and sediment concentrations of the offshore waters. The modelled net primary production at the plume site was 105 g C m⁻² a⁻¹ and 127 g C m⁻² a⁻¹ offshore. Primary production was controlled by light limitation between October and March and by the availability of nutrients during the rest of the year. The phytoplankton nutrient demand is met by in-situ recycling processes during the summer. The likely effect of increasing and decreasing anthropogenic riverine inputs of nitrate and phosphate upon ecosystem function was also investigated. Modelling experiments indicate that increasing the nitrogen to silicate ratio in freshwater inputs increased the production of non-siliceous phytoplankton in the plume. The results of this model have been used to calculate the annual and quarterly mass balances describing the usage of inorganic nitrogen, phosphate and silicate within the plume zone for the period of the NERC North Sea survey (September 1988 to October 1989). The modelled Humber plume retains 3.9% of the freshwater dissolved inorganic nitrogen, 2.2% of the freshwater phosphate and 1.3% of the freshwater silicate input over the simulated seasonal cycle. The remainder is transported into the southern North Sea in either dissolved or particulate form. The reliability of these results is discussed.  相似文献   

福建漳浦前湖湾有孔虫群落及其沉积环境     

王绍鸿  刘剑秋  吴彩容  俞鸣同 《台湾海峡》2007,26(2):151-156

对福建漳浦前湖湾潮间带两个钻孔岩心和表层沉积物中的有孔虫进行分析研究,有孔虫出现在钻孔最上部厚约2.46-2.96m的砂层中.根据群落优势种生态和非种特征判断,该段各样品有孔虫沉积环境均为近岸浅水环境,尽管其间海面有过3次上下波动变化.根据地层关系判断,其当为现代的产物.  相似文献   

Local remineralization patterns in the mesopelagic zone of the Eastern North Atlantic, off the NW Iberian Peninsula     

C.G. Castro  M. Nieto-Cid  X.A. lvarez-Salgado  F.F. Prez 《Deep Sea Research Part I: Oceanographic Research Papers》2006,53(12):1925-1940

The short-time-scale variability of the remineralization patterns in the domain of Eastern North Atlantic Central Waters (ENACW) off the NW Iberian Peninsula is studied based on biogeochemical data (oxygen, nutrient salts, total alkalinity, pH, dissolved organic matter and fluorescence of dissolved humic substances) collected weekly between May 2001 and April 2002. The temporal variability of inorganic variables points to an intensification of remineralization during the summer and autumn, with an increase of nutrients, total inorganic carbon and fluorescence and a decrease of oxygen. During the subsequent winter mixing, there is a biogeochemical reset of the system, with lower nutrients, total inorganic carbon and fluorescence and higher oxygen. In contrast to inorganic variables, the levels of dissolved organic matter in the ENACW seem to respond to short-term events probably associated with fast sinking particles, where solubilisation of organic matter prevails over remineralization. Applying a previously published stoichiometric model, we observed a vertical fractionation of organic-matter remineralization. Although there is a preferential remineralization of proteins and P compounds in the entire domain of ENACW, the percentage was higher in the upper ENACW (σ<27.10 kg/m³) than in the lower; the percentage of N and P compounds in the oxidised organic matter was >80% for the upper ENACW and 63% for the lower. Likewise, the redissolution of calcareous structures contributes about 6% and 13% to the carbon regenerated in the upper and lower layers of ENACW, respectively.  相似文献